The case against multi-year ceramic paint coatings - Road Grime = Surface Staining Daily Drivers by Mike Phillips

cayenne_ksa said:
whats worst thing can happen if i polish a car that is coated with Cquartz for example ?
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What BudgetPlan said.

I had CQuartz UK 3.0 on, and polishing removed it, of course that was my intent LOL!

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Last night I was sitting here at about 11 with a cart full of coating products. First McKees, then Blackfire, then back to the McKees, then back to Blackfire. Watching the timer wind down on a 25% off sale and trying to decide what to do.

Then I remembered this thread.

After some good discussion with desertnate, who lives not too far from me and has used a variety of coatings in the price range I was considering I decided to stick with the same routine on my new truck that was working on my old one. An AIO in the spring, and a durable sealant in the fall. My truck gets used as a truck. It goes off road, it goes down logging roads. It gets scuffs and scratches. I need to do at least some correction every spring after it gets beat up during deer season. Instead I spent less, which keeps the Mrs. happy, and went with what I know works for me. I also find the process almost therapeutic. I can't hear the kids screaming when the polisher is running! :buffing:

No matter which route I take, it's still one of the best looking vehicles in the work parking lot, and I know it's protected from the elements.
 
pilotpip said:
Last night I was sitting here at about 11 with a cart full of coating products. First McKees, then Blackfire, then back to the McKees, then back to Blackfire. Watching the timer wind down on a 25% off sale and trying to decide what to do.

Then I remembered this thread.

After some good discussion with desertnate, who lives not too far from me and has used a variety of coatings in the price range I was considering I decided to stick with the same routine on my new truck that was working on my old one.

An AIO in the spring, and a durable sealant in the fall.

My truck gets used as a truck. It goes off road, it goes down logging roads. It gets scuffs and scratches. I need to do at least some correction every spring after it gets beat up during deer season.

Instead I spent less, which keeps the Mrs. happy, and went with what I know works for me. I also find the process almost therapeutic. I can't hear the kids screaming when the polisher is running! :buffing:

No matter which route I take, it's still one of the best looking vehicles in the work parking lot, and I know it's protected from the elements.
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I think you came to the best solution for you and your truck.




BudgetPlan1 said:
Once ya sort thru all the opinions, preferences and recommendations, this is all that matters.
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Agree.

:cheers:
 
I dont want a full ceramic just for the fact that I like to detail and I want to polish at least 2x a year. Coatings are good for people who don't want to do any detailing.

All these guys that love detailing put coatings on and top them 100x in a year. That's fine if you like the look and like doing it but like Mike said you still need to polish it off at least 1x a year.

That's why I'm into the hybrid stuff. I just used a ceramic wax and topped with that new pinnacle sio2 product and it looks great. I didn't even polish but u can use it over wax or wax over it. I like all that
 
:updated:


This article is probably one of the most educational articles I've ever written as most of us drive a "Daily Driver" and thus the info describes what is happening to our cars no matter what we use to protect them.



Shared here because this car makes my point.


Review: Hybrid Solutions Ceramic Polish & Wax


Ceramic_Polish_Wax_040.JPG




:)
 
pilotpip said:
Last night I was sitting here at about 11 with a cart full of coating products. First McKees, then Blackfire, then back to the McKees, then back to Blackfire. Watching the timer wind down on a 25% off sale and trying to decide what to do.

Then I remembered this thread.

After some good discussion with desertnate, who lives not too far from me and has used a variety of coatings in the price range I was considering I decided to stick with the same routine on my new truck that was working on my old one. An AIO in the spring, and a durable sealant in the fall. My truck gets used as a truck. It goes off road, it goes down logging roads. It gets scuffs and scratches. I need to do at least some correction every spring after it gets beat up during deer season. Instead I spent less, which keeps the Mrs. happy, and went with what I know works for me. I also find the process almost therapeutic. I can't hear the kids screaming when the polisher is running! :buffing:

No matter which route I take, it's still one of the best looking vehicles in the work parking lot, and I know it's protected from the elements.
Click to expand...

I went through the same ordeal and landed up grabbing some McKee's 360 cleaner wax and hi-def sealant during the liquidation sale. I plan on following a schedule similar to yours; AIO in the spring, sealant applied twice over the summer and fall. That's it. As much as I enjoy this hobby I need to try to keep things simple this year.

I'm happy to see cleaner waxes like the turtle wax product still being developed and released. I'll always find a place for a product that lets me refresh well-maintained paint and walk away. I grabbed new 12-pack of LC white pads and I'm actually looking forward to polishing in a couple of weeks.
 
Bump

I wish I would have taken some pictures. The daily driver I did had not been polished in two years. It was NOT neglected, well protected, and washed fairly regularly. However it was driven through all four seasons in the midwest and I still pulled out road grime from the lower panels. Not nearly as dramatic as the pictures in this thread but it was there.

Here's the thing though this was not a lot of work. We're talking about a production buff; fast arm speed, minimal section passes, lots of product, lots of pads with a cleaner/wax. Since I'm not chasing RIDS we're just cleaning up light toweling marks. I wasn't timing myself but probably 4-5 hours to do everything including wash, decon, windows, etc. Vehicle is back to 90-95% and good for another year.
 
DetailZeus said:
Bump

I wish I would have taken some pictures.

The daily driver I did had not been polished in two years. It was NOT neglected, well protected, and washed fairly regularly.

However it was driven through all four seasons in the midwest and I still pulled out road grime from the lower panels. Not nearly as dramatic as the pictures in this thread but it was there.
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Thanks for sharing!


We always regret not taking the "before" shots.

At least I do.


:)
 
My $.02 cents worth here. Wheel acid works wonders for contamination build up on painted panels that are protected with Feynlab coatings . Also, the best surface prep I have found (and also the original!!) is Duragloss's Squeaky Clean. AG used to sell it; I don't see it listed anymore.

1060 – Squeaky Clean Surface Prep 4oz – Duragloss
 
Dr. Beasley's Nano-Resin Hydrophobic coating states as follows:

Dr. Beasley's Nano-Resin Hydrophobic Coating is a semi-permanent paint coating designed to provide the longest lasting paint protection possible. Protecting against UV rays, marring, staining, and damage from airborne contaminants, Dr. Beasley's Nano-Resin Hydrophobic Coating creates a 2 micron thick coating layer in just one application. Keep your paint as protected as possible with Dr. Beasley's Nano-Resin Hydrophobic Coating!

Even though it boasts stain resisting properties do you think the coating will still get stained over time by film or road grime, but this will happen at a slower rate?
 
If it wasn't for road grime (I'm on a 31 hr cross country drive now) I'd have nothing to do and would have to find another hobby to kill time.
 
richy said:
My $.02 cents worth here.

Wheel acid works wonders for contamination build up on painted panels that are protected with Feynlab coatings . Also, the best surface prep I have found (and also the original!!) is Duragloss's Squeaky Clean. AG used to sell it; I don't see it listed anymore.
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Just to note - anytime you're using an acidic wheel cleaner for anything, including cleaning wheels. Be sure to use the appropriate personal protective equipmnet or PPE. Things like eye protection, gloves, apron, water-proof work shoes, etc.

Check to find out what type of acid is being used in the wheel cleaner. Some chrome wheel cleaners may use Hydrofloric Acid, which is very dangerous if not used safely or without the correct PPE. Some wheel cleaners like Meguiar's Wheel Brightner use Ammonium bifluoride and while not as dangerous as Hydrloric Acid, you still need to treat it accordingly and take the proper safety precautions for yourself, your employees or even people around you in the work areas.


Here's a thread with LOTS of information about Hydrofloric Acid as used in wheel cleaners.

Hydrofluoric Acid to clean wheels?


See posts #4,

And #8 and #18 - from PiPUK who I remember to be a chemist.

And posts #11 and #23 From Bob aka FUNX650


And posts #15 from David Hayward, a Trained First Responder


Post #19 from jfelbab

Post #24 - this one might scare you enough to wear the proper mask or face shield



My comment?

Everyone can do as they wish. I know over time road film or Traffic Film as our friends across the pond call it, builds-up on any exterior cars surface, (we all focus on the paint but if it's on the paint isn't it on everything?), and for me I simply think the best way to deal with it on car paint is to re-polish and then re-seal the surface.

Spraying a harsh chemical on to car paint won't make the paint more glossy or more shiny or more protected.

What is the opposite of the word more.


:)
 
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