The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

I'm just here to give a huge THANK YOU for this incredible write up. As a beginner, I learned so much.

Loving this forum!
 
Would this technique work on aircraft paint to remove oxidation? Also could you do an ipa wipe after the polishing step, then apply a coating?


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Jeremy5431 said:
Would this technique work on aircraft paint to remove oxidation?
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Yes but - I would only do this treatment if the paint on the aircraft were ANTIQUE.

If it's a modern aircraft that simply has oxidized single stage paint then get a good one-step cleaner/wax like BLACKFIRE One Step, some foam pads and an orbital polisher and go to town.

Also - if it's chalky white paint - consider using the "Cheater Technique" I use to know down the loose dead paint during the wash job and then hit it with the BLACKFIRE One Step. That's what we did with the original single stage paint on this classic Cadillac.

The COMET Technique by Mike Phillips - 1965 Cadillac - Original Single Stage Paint - Slam job by Mike Phillips

1965_Caddy_018.JPG




BEFORE

1965_Caddy_011.JPG



AFTER

1965_Caddy_020.JPG






Jeremy5431 said:
Also could you do an ipa wipe after the polishing step, then apply a coating?
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The short answer is, "yes" but there are caveats, see what I wrote here,

Can you apply a ceramic coating to old school single stage lacquer paint?




What are you working on?

:)
 
What are you working on?

:)
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There are a couple of planes. I was asking about #7 as a more general question.

Both plans are very well cared for without oxidation.

The first is an extra 300 L that has light swirls. I’m thinking my new RUPES 15 m3 with a white pad and ultra fine polish should do the trick.
c0dbc68c9c4781cb3bc2d60877285057.jpg


The other one is a bit more “fun” it’s a P51 Mustang that is polished aluminum.
dacfb098b91cb1447bbd804d7f5ad294.jpg


This belongs to a friend of mine. We polished it a long time ago by hand. I have to think that there is s better way. I’m wondering if my RUPES DA would be a good choice or if I should look at the 3401 or a rotary?

This is a bit off topic so feel free to move to a new thread


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Jeremy5431 said:
This belongs to a friend of mine. We polished it a long time ago by hand. I have to think that there is s better way.

I’m wondering if my RUPES DA would be a good choice or if I should look at the 3401 or a rotary?

This is a bit off topic so feel free to move to a new thread
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First - those planes are SWEEEEET!


Second - I think the RUPES would be a good choice or any free spinning orbital. With painted planes you have rivits and high edges from overlapping aluminum panels and these two things, because they stick up tend to get the paint burned off. So you want to stick with the more gentle tools i.e. free spinning orbitals.

Most of the RUPES tools are free spinning except their rotary and the Mille.

I would thing a RUPES 15 or 21 would be fine.

I think and even simpler Porter Cable - 8mm free spinning would do the job too....

I'd highly take a look at the BLACKFIRE One Step as an option. Very nice one-step cleaner/sealant that also wipes of super easy. When detailing LARGE things you normally want to knock it out in one step and for sure want a product that does NOT micro-mar the paint and wipes off easy.

I talk a LOT about abrasive technology in my detailing classes and on this forum because it's IMPORTANT. I wrote this article yesterday after testing two different AIOs or cleaner/waxes. They don't use good abrasive technology.


Pictures of Micro-Marring - DA Haze - Tick Marks - Compounds - Polishes - AIOs - Clearcoat Paints




:)
 
Mike Phillips said:
First - those planes are SWEEEEET!


Second - I think the RUPES would be a good choice or any free spinning orbital. With painted planes you have rivits and high edges from overlapping aluminum panels and these two things, because they stick up tend to get the paint burned off. So you want to stick with the more gentle tools i.e. free spinning orbitals.

Most of the RUPES tools are free spinning except their rotary and the Mille.

I would thing a RUPES 15 or 21 would be fine.

I think and even simpler Porter Cable - 8mm free spinning would do the job too....

I'd highly take a look at the BLACKFIRE One Step as an option. Very nice one-step cleaner/sealant that also wipes of super easy. When detailing LARGE things you normally want to knock it out in one step and for sure want a product that does NOT micro-mar the paint and wipes off easy.

I talk a LOT about abrasive technology in my detailing classes and on this forum because it's IMPORTANT. I wrote this article yesterday after testing two different AIOs or cleaner/waxes. They don't use good abrasive technology.


Pictures of Micro-Marring - DA Haze - Tick Marks - Compounds - Polishes - AIOs - Clearcoat Paints




:)
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Hey Mike
Looks like the link didn’t work

Luckily I do have a porter cable as well! What metal polish would you recommend that can be applied by machine?

My friend has a World War II aircraft museum up here in Minnesota. Here’s a few more from their collection

b156d488f5d69c834413f23ad067bf94.jpg
fe14838ab37b443e5e2bf6e46a7faac3.jpg
403958f3e6280bbbf3bd832d6de585d6.jpg


If your ever up in Minnesota, let me know and I might be able to get you in one :)


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PaulMys said:
Am I seeing a P-51, and a B-25 there, Jeremy?
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Yes there are two P51s and a p-38 lightning, a few P-40s, a wildcat and a Corsair. That’s not the whole list either.

Also they purchased a German rail box car that was used move prisoners and brought it to the museum.


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Jeremy5431 said:
Yes there are two P51s and a p-38 lightning, a few P-40s, a wildcat and a Corsair. That’s not the whole list either.

Also they purchased a German rail box car that was used move prisoners and brought it to the museum.


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Incredible.

Thank you for sharing that, man. :)
 
Because I am a dummy and rolled the dice, my truck got wet last night while letting the #7 soak. Any tips on how to proceed from here? I am tempted to let it dry in the sun then wipe and reapply but thought I would ask in case someone has experience and recommends another course.
 
I've done dozens of M07 treatments, but never had one rained on. How long was it outside? Did it get dirty or just get wet? If it just got rained on, I'd be tempted to just proceed with wipe-off. You could always dampen a towel with more M07 and wipe it down again, as newly applied M07 will cut the film of previously-applied product. If you're planning on machine polishing anyway, just wipe it off and get along with your process.
Again, it's all guesswork on my part. I've been using M07 since the 70's, but never faced that scenario.

Bill
 
Hi Bill, thanks for the response. It did not rain but got damp due to the marine layer from the ocean. The areas that were wet dried out so I am think I will be good. Like you said, I will add more product if any of the areas give me trouble while I remove it.
 
BillyJack said:
I've done dozens of M07 treatments, but never had one rained on. How long was it outside? Did it get dirty or just get wet? If it just got rained on, I'd be tempted to just proceed with wipe-off. You could always dampen a towel with more M07 and wipe it down again, as newly applied M07 will cut the film of previously-applied product. If you're planning on machine polishing anyway, just wipe it off and get along with your process.
Again, it's all guesswork on my part. I've been using M07 since the 70's, but never faced that scenario.

Bill
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I hit it with another application of M07 and it came right off. Thanks again for the tip!
 
Hi there, first time caller long time listener here. This thread is pretty legendary now. Thanks so much for this incredible information and insight.

I have an unrestored MGB with its original single stage enamel paint intact. It has oxidised a little, so was looking to give the Meguiars #7 a go. The only thing is, #7 is out of stock in Australia. I contacted Meguiars who told me they are discontinuing #7 because there's no longer a market for this kind of product given the change in paint technologies. Their recommended replacement is either Ultimate Polish, or Ultra Finishing polish M205.

Has anyone tried Ultimate Polish or M205 using this kind of soaking process? Is there another product out there that can replace #7 for this kind of paint nourishment?
 
Pouakai said:
Hi there, first time caller long time listener here. This thread is pretty legendary now. Thanks so much for this incredible information and insight.
Click to expand...

Why thank you. I agree, this thread is now legendary. Especially considering 99.9% of the populartion owns a car with a CLEARCOAT paint system.




Pouakai said:
I have an unrestored MGB with its original single stage enamel paint intact. It has oxidised a little, so was looking to give the Meguiars #7 a go. The only thing is, #7 is out of stock in Australia. I contacted Meguiars who told me they are discontinuing #7 because there's no longer a market for this kind of product given the change in paint technologies. Their recommended replacement is either Ultimate Polish, or Ultra Finishing polish M205.
Click to expand...

Sorry to hear this. So everyone reading this into the future - BUY SOME #7 NOW! Before it's gone!


And here's what you have to understand, there's no one at Meguiar's since I left that really works on cars with antique single stage paint TODAY or in the PAST. I can't count how many times I've saved the original, antique single stage paint on someone else's car?

And having the background knowledge I have about early paint technology and early Meguiar's products, there's really no one else you can find or talk to about this topic. I'd challenge anyone to find one other person on Planet Earth that knows this stuff that you can also talk to. The ONLY person I know might be Bill Stuart, (he owns the Absorber Company), but how you going to reach him? Me? I answer question on public forums since 1994 - I'm reachable. And I write articles on this topic. I don't know of anyone else that writes articles on this topic or any topic now days.


Pouakai said:
Has anyone tried Ultimate Polish or M205 using this kind of soaking process? Is there another product out there that can replace #7 for this kind of paint nourishment?
Click to expand...

I'd give the the Ultimate Polish a try. I'm sure it has some kind of TS Oil in it, who knows? Only the Meguiar's chemist.


I'm sure it will work for you.


:)
 
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