The video Gyeon didn’t want you to see

100% Agree. I have no real overhead and my patrons are 100% referrals. I don't even publicize my website. I do 1-2 per week and that's it. IMO most places over-charge for what they offer. I'm 200% for capitalism though but still, I know what is needed, how long things take and yeah, I suppose I could raise my prices, but then the "value" for outstanding work that I'm proud to say I can produce is what keeps my referrals coming.

Very similar situation.

The shop where I work charges around $1500.00 for a paint correction/ceramic coating. I believe the Xpel Fusion coating we use is a four year rated coating.

Even though I'm the one performing the service I still have a difficult time charging people that much for my work. I have a hard time charging anything because I think I'm pretty terrible at what I do. But I have to prosper, and I want to support myself independently again.

Another thing to consider is that the shop does work for the Suburban Collection in Troy, MI. $1,500.00 to correct/coat a vehicle is nothing to someone with Lamborghini money.

However, my drummer friend who is self employed refinishing wood floors, he comes to me for the value, and what he says is high quality. I charged him $225.00 for 3D Speed on his Pacifica. I think that was fair. He was overjoyed with how it came out. He called the shop for a price quote for a chrome delete on that Pacifica, and was given a quote of $1,000.00.

My highest end service is obviously a paint correction and ceramic coating. I've had a hard time with this one because I wasn't 100% on coatings, then I find out the coating I was using wasn't the best out there. This was compounded when I started working at this place in 2020, and experienced the horror of trying to install a professional coating with no prior experience. I imagine it would be similar to removing super glue or pancake syrup. The vehicle was a black Jeep Wrangler, you know, with all those edges, nooks, and crannies.

I was so put off my glass bottle coatings that I avoided them as much as possible. It was Mike (The Guz) whose words stayed with me as I looked for a new coating options.

Right now CarPro is where I'm comfortable. They "feel" like a legit, ultra professional product. I wouldn't have a problem charging someone around $1,000.00 for a full correction and coating using CQUK 3.0 (two layers) topped with either Gliss or SIC, because it's a proven product that should outlast what I was using.

Yesterday while I was finishing up a co-worker's 200, my first Gloss Coat customer drove by to ask about getting his 350z polished and coated again. I installed that coating in 2017, and it looks fantastic! He loves it, and wants Gloss Coat again. But that car only comes out on sunny Sundays... I'll see if he would like to try CarPro Lite. If he does, he'll be blown away by the water behavior, and I 100% believe it will last as long as Gloss Coat. It's that kind of "shock value" I want to deliver my customers. That means that I want the very best possible products going on their paint, especially when they're paying their hard earned money for it.
 
The shop where I work charges around $1500.00 for a paint correction/ceramic coating. I believe the Xpel Fusion coating we use is a four year rated coating.

holy smokes! :wow:

its slightly painfull when i spend the time to shine up or even coat someones vehicle and you know that all they do is run it thru a touchless carwash, and i know they arent gong to maintain it properly...so it might not last as long.

i think im going to start offering to them for a small fee to bring it back atleast once a year for a wash/decon and ill apply at minimum a ceramic sealant...or for a smidge more can coat evo
 
holy smokes! :wow:

its slightly painfull when i spend the time to shine up or even coat someones vehicle and you know that all they do is run it thru a touchless carwash, and i know they arent gong to maintain it properly...so it might not last as long.

i think im going to start offering to them for a small fee to bring it back atleast once a year for a wash/decon and ill apply at minimum a ceramic sealant...or for a smidge more can coat evo

That's the lament of my coworker. He often won't do a true correction. Until recently he wouldn't coat the roofs of trucks or suvs.

One of my customers had me put Gloss Coat on his Audi. I was amazed to see that the tunnel wash swirling was significantly cut down compared to the Rupes 808 + Zymol Carbon I had put on it previously.
 
I only watched the Esoteric video comparing Mohs EVO and Pure EVO and I'm wondering if I chose the right coating The Mohs had waaay more check marks in the video, Pure getting a check mark for "candy finish" which he said would work better on colored cars, which I don't have now. The Mohs has you working a smaller section with little set up time which I actually like..."wax on, wax off" if you will.

So I ask my peers, should I change my order before it ships out

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I only watched the Esoteric video comparing Mohs EVO and Pure EVO and I'm wondering if I chose the right coating The Mohs had waaay more check marks in the video, Pure getting a check mark for "candy finish" which he said would work better on colored cars, which I don't have now. The Mohs has you working a smaller section with little set up time which I actually like..."wax on, wax off" if you will.

So I ask my peers, should I change my order before it ships out

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Get the Syncro Kit and thank me later.
 
If they want to find out what it’s like to get ripped for real, they should send me some product.lol.

I’ll start with their Bathe+
 
I only watched the Esoteric video comparing Mohs EVO and Pure EVO and I'm wondering if I chose the right coating The Mohs had waaay more check marks in the video, Pure getting a check mark for "candy finish" which he said would work better on colored cars, which I don't have now. The Mohs has you working a smaller section with little set up time which I actually like..."wax on, wax off" if you will.

So I ask my peers, should I change my order before it ships out

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Nothing wrong with your choice. That’s based on esoteric’s list.

White is not going to look wow with any coating and that comment was straight out comical when I heard it.

Use Pure and enjoy it. It’s a good option. Try Mohs next year. You too it anyway so go with what you have.

At the moment I would skip Syncro. I say this because Skin takes away from the slickness of Mohs which is a bit of a bummer with this updated kit.
 
Nothing wrong with your choice. That’s based on esoteric’s list.

White is not going to look wow with any coating and that comment was straight out comical when I heard it.

Use Pure and enjoy it. It’s a good option. Try Mohs next year. You too it anyway so go with what you have.

At the moment I would skip Syncro. I say this because Skin takes away from the slickness of Mohs which is a bit of a bummer with this updated kit.
I know it looks white in the pics but it's actually a light gray w/metallic and some pearl in it, a unique color I must say. On an overcast day it looks like primer w/ clearcoat, LOL.

I like that this is a one layer coating and I see topping it after a while w/Gyeon Q2 Wax, since it's made to go ontop of coated vehicles, so that should make this coating slick. Speaking of sickness Guz, do you agree about Pure EVO's lack of slickness

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I know it looks white in the pics but it's actually a light gray w/metallic and some pearl in it, a unique color I must say. On an overcast day it looks like primer w/ clearcoat, LOL.

I like that this is a one layer coating and I see topping it after a while w/Gyeon Q2 Wax, since it's made to go ontop of coated vehicles, so that should make this coating slick. Speaking of sickness Guz, do you agree about Pure EVO's lack of slickness

My opinion as I have a few....

Ditch Q2 Wax. I had high hopes but tested it and it's Meh at best. Behaves like a typical sealant. I was hoping the flourine base in it would increase the contact angle and hydrophobic properties but nope. No more slick than any other wax. Pure EVO, is medium/typical coating in terms of slickness. Slightly more than CarPro UK 3.0 but nothing better or worse. Slicker than Pure from last year but still needs a topper / detail mist if you want a hyper slick feeling.
 
I'll be using many toppers after a couple weeks (1 week no wash). Speaking of washing goes, this is where the Bilt-Hamber Touchless and Auto-foam will come into their own. These pre-washes are strong but will not hurt this coating. I expect the self-cleaning properties to pay big dividends here, thus making these 2 pre-washes "almost" all I need

Since I have Q2 Wax already I'll be using it and while I'm sure your answer is technically correct, I'm not THAT technical

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I know it looks white in the pics but it's actually a light gray w/metallic and some pearl in it, a unique color I must say. On an overcast day it looks like primer w/ clearcoat, LOL.

I like that this is a one layer coating and I see topping it after a while w/Gyeon Q2 Wax, since it's made to go ontop of coated vehicles, so that should make this coating slick. Speaking of sickness Guz, do you agree about Pure EVO's lack of slickness

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Here I thought it was white from the photos. Hard to tell.


I’m not a fan of Q2 wax over a coating. Takes away from the beauty of the coatings behavior.

Pure is not slick either. Mohs is the slickest coating Gyeon offers. Pure goes on thicker though.
 
I only watched the Esoteric video comparing Mohs EVO and Pure EVO and I'm wondering if I chose the right coating The Mohs had waaay more check marks in the video, Pure getting a check mark for "candy finish" which he said would work better on colored cars, which I don't have now. The Mohs has you working a smaller section with little set up time which I actually like..."wax on, wax off" if you will.

So I ask my peers, should I change my order before it ships out

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I went with Pure for the Chevelle because all I care about on that was Gloss. For the Camaro (daily) I went with Nova Evo because it has a higher PH rating (13) than the Gyeon offerings (11). Be careful with BH as Touchless is ph 12 and AF 13-14.

I probably woulda chosen Mohs as your car lives outside if I’m correct and Mohs is suppose to have the better water behavior and self cleaning.

Pure is being marketed as a CQUK challenger and if that holds true then it will be an awesome coating.

If you have another car to coat then yes order MOHs but if not I wouldn’t worry to much and just use Pure.


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Thanks Crack

Yeah it lives outside 24/7 and I'll be careful with the Bilt-Hamber products for sure and I bet my ratio of 4-5 oz/1 gallon in my IK Foam Pro 12 is probably a little below that PIR that's talked about.

I really hope the self-cleaning properties are there as I was very spoiled with TAC system power plus on my ES, even after 2 years it seemed to be holding up pretty good

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My opinion as I have a few....

Ditch Q2 Wax. I had high hopes but tested it and it's Meh at best. Behaves like a typical sealant. I was hoping the flourine base in it would increase the contact angle and hydrophobic properties but nope. No more slick than any other wax. Pure EVO, is medium/typical coating in terms of slickness. Slightly more than CarPro UK 3.0 but nothing better or worse. Slicker than Pure from last year but still needs a topper / detail mist if you want a hyper slick feeling.

My problem with Q2 is durability. For 3-4 weeks for me behaved coating like and had the best beads IHave ever seen. Here it is on bare paint 1-2 days later.

Compared it to Cosmic. Was winning substantially in the 3-4 week period and just fell off. In my 3month test Cosmic wiped the floor with it for the rest of the time.

Still was impressed with initial beading and self cleaning.

57f53c72cb9d8585f527d0c48331e768.jpg



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Because I like topping, I have no problem adding G2 Wax every 6 weeks, with other spray toppers being used to dry the car. My coatings seem to live a good life as I religiously stay ontop of my cars, even during the winter

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Thanks Crack

Yeah it lives outside 24/7 and I'll be careful with the Bilt-Hamber products for sure and I bet my ratio of 4-5 oz/1 gallon in my IK Foam Pro 12 is probably a little below that PIR that's talked about.

I really hope the self-cleaning properties are there as I was very spoiled with TAC system power plus on my ES, even after 2 years it seemed to be holding up pretty good

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I would do no more than 4 of Touchless and 3-3.5 of AF to keep PH down.


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