The World is About to Change

SWETM said:
Would be interesting to see what it could do on something like Eldorado2K's hood. Even if maybe not advised to. But they used it on the SS paint in the video. So why not on a clearcoat failure. Maybe you would need some more layers to build up the thickness over the where there is only basecoat left.
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You KNOW someone is going to try it on failed clearcoat as soon as this is available...I mean really, what do you have to lose? Where's the popcorn emoticon?
 
I’ve got nothing to lose... I might be getting rid of the car soon anyways and I’ve already started trying any hacks that I can think of on it.

A few days ago I coated the windshield with McKee’s Headlight Coating. I haven’t gotten around to testing the water behavior, but optically it’s crystal clear.

Next I’m going to try different methods of polishing the clear plastic on the instrument panel/dashboard including using Mothers Mag & Aluminum polish because Sweet Project Cars swears it works flawlessly...
 
Eldorado2k said:
I’ve got nothing to lose... I might be getting rid of the car soon anyways and I’ve already started trying any hacks that I can think of on it.
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Maybe we can convince Meghan to give you a sample in exchange for a review...when/if they start carrying it here at AG.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Maybe we can convince Meghan to give you a sample in exchange for a review...when/if they start carrying it here at AG.
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You know I’m good for it. Either ways I can make good use of it because the roof of my DTS isn’t exactly restored to a mirror finish thanks to the neglect of the previous owner.

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My hood and trunklid to a lesser degree, meaning they look better than the roof, but they’re also not what you’d consider perfect by any means. I definitely think they might be a candidate for this new product.

Notice the difference in shine on trunklid compared to the max shine on the quarter panel.

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I haven’t watched the entire vid, but I’m guessing those panels would be ideal? If not then what the heck is the ideal paint condition?
 
Nix said:
after watching the video and reading few comments on youtube this product is not for car which is in good condition..if it can be polished then you dont need this product..plus only 30 day shelf life after opening the bottle..
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You don't "need" a drill to put screws in either but it's a heck of a lot better to have one.
 
fightnews said:
You don't "need" a drill to put screws in either but it's a heck of a lot better to have one.
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with this product you cant apply it on perfectly polish surface it will not bond..need to use compound with wool or microfiber pad..then apply this product to level out those deep scratches and it will bond properly..good for thin clearcoat i guess..compound the car then dont polish it and apply this product..
 
Eldorado2k said:
In that case, tell the Dr. to send me a bottle...

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It's not designed for clearcoat failure. Yvan Lacroix said that you can apply it on something like that but it won't look good. Maybe it will stop the failure and prevent having to re-paint... who knows. Thing is, the product is a 100$ for a bottle and from what I have seen in Apex detailing's video, it looks horible unless you wetsand it and polish it... there was all sorts of wipe marks on the surface when he was done with his second coat. Also there is a long wait period between coats for for us mobile guys, we would be forced to stick to one coat.

This product is better suited for a shop environment for sure. I don't know if people are gonna be willing to pay 300$+ for something that will not make the car look better in case of clear coat failure....
 
The Guz said:
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I got kind of a weird answer on the Optimum forum about using this product on headlights, but Apex has another video out demonstrating it on headlights as a "permanent" solution. I guess we will find out what that means.

How the Apex guy has a Kynar drum for a trash can I simply can't get my head around. And yes, I realize there is basically zero chance that anyone else on the forum will know what I am talking about.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
I got kind of a weird answer on the Optimum forum about using this product on headlights, but Apex has another video out demonstrating it on headlights as a "permanent" solution. I guess we will find out what that means.

How the Apex guy has a Kynar drum for a trash can I simply can't get my head around. And yes, I realize there is basically zero chance that anyone else on the forum will know what I am talking about.
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What the heck is a Kynar drum?
 
Eldorado2k said:
What the heck is a Kynar drum?
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It's just something very obscure (that's completely unrelated to detailing) that probably I'm the only one on the forum that would recognize, especially since his trash liner was covering most of it. Just a huge coincidence in a thread I started. It's a shipping drum for something that he (Apex) would never use, no idea where he got it. Kynar is a plastic that's sort of in the Teflon family, most familiar use is probably as a coating for things like window cladding and aluminum trim that are installed in coastal areas.

Now that I think about it, FunX is the only other one on here that might have recognized that drum.
 
CCR certainly is a revolutionary product. So far I’ve used it to darken paint burns on CC, camouflage chipping on front ends of vehicles, bug etching on single stage paint and on areas of thin paint. It’s super easy to use and adds a great glossy finish. I’ve also layered it (4 layers) and polished it after it hardened. Like everything, it has it’s limitations & learning curve, but doesn’t take long to master. Just follow the directions to the “T” and you’ll be fine.
 
David Fermani said:
CCR certainly is a revolutionary product. So far I’ve used it to darken paint burns on CC, camouflage chipping on front ends of vehicles, bug etching on single stage paint and on areas of thin paint. It’s super easy to use and adds a great glossy finish. I’ve also layered it (4 layers) and polished it after it hardened. Like everything, it has it’s limitations & learning curve, but doesn’t take long to master. Just follow the directions to the “T” and you’ll be fine.
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Would love to see some pictures of stuff you’ve layered it on, if you have them. A few of the examples I’ve seen of it being applied and layered end up having this streaky look to them. Like you can see which way you were wiping it on.

If I were to use it on my humiliated front bumper (frumpiest, if you will) would i “see” that it was applied every time I get down on it to wash my car or wipe it down? Or does it blend seamlessly between panels in your experience with it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Sorry, no pics to share. Streaking is usually from not applying enough product and not leveling it properly. It can surely be tricky, but can be eliminated with technique. Plus, you can refine it with sanding or polishing once it’s torally cured. Before this point, just leave it alone and don’t expose it to anything like chemicals, water, or even friction.....it’s really soft.
 
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