Tine to try Menzerna - Make recommendation

You won't be disappointed no matter what choose between Blackfire, Menzerna, and Wolfgang. My last go around on my mustang was WG Uber & WG Finishing Glaze. From a cost standpoint, Merzerna will be cheaper...
 
Fast gloss, power finish and super finish are the only three Menzerna products you need. SF4500 for the softer clears.
 
Fast gloss, power finish and super finish are the only three Menzerna products you need. SF4500 for the softer clears.

:iagree:

FG400 for the heavy hitting, and can be used as a 1-step on many colors....

PF2500 for medium cut and definitely a good 1-step product

SF4000 for soft paint cutting, or finishing on harder paints after FG400

SF4500 for jewelling or really soft clears (Subaru etc)
 
I have used Menzerna for a long time, and still use it now, I have FG400 which as stated above is a great compound that can be pad manipulated to work as a single step prior to sealing. I also have SF4500 and used it as my next step with a lighter pad and the gloss will pop.

HUMP
 
So either of these combos would do me good right?

Wolfgang Uber Compound(one-step?) & Total Swirl Remover

or

Menzerna PF2500(one step?) & SF2500(Swirl remover, finishing)
 
So either of these combos would do me good right?

Wolfgang Uber Compound(one-step?) & Total Swirl Remover

or

Menzerna PF2500(one step?) & SF2500(Swirl remover, finishing)

Never tried Wolfgang, but their Über compound would be comparable with Menzerna fast gloss and total swirl remover sounds like Menzerna PO85RD3.02, IE Menzerna "SIP", and their finishing glaze should be something like Menzerna PO106FA Super finish.

Menzerna Power finish, PF2500 is a great polish, but it's not a compound. It can do some good cutting if used with a cutting wool pad and rotary - but it's a polish.

A good two step punch would be FG400 followed with PF2500 or SF4000, it all depends on what kind of paints and machines you are using. FG400 was designed to be used in a two stepper and therfore can finish out so nice that you don't need a heavy polish. As said above, never tried Wolfgang so I can't comment on those, but since they are made by Menzerna, I can only guess.
 
Never tried Wolfgang, but their Über compound would be comparable with Menzerna fast gloss and total swirl remover sounds like Menzerna PO85RD3.02, IE Menzerna "SIP", and their finishing glaze should be something like Menzerna PO106FA Super finish.

Menzerna Power finish, PF2500 is a great polish, but it's not a compound. It can do some good cutting if used with a cutting wool pad and rotary - but it's a polish.

A good two step punch would be FG400 followed with PF2500 or SF4000, it all depends on what kind of paints and machines you are using. FG400 was designed to be used in a two stepper and therfore can finish out so nice that you don't need a heavy polish. As said above, never tried Wolfgang so I can't comment on those, but since they are made by Menzerna, I can only guess.

I agree with everything above but must say I have got some pretty decent cut out of PF2500 with nothing but a DA (similar to Megs but made?/distributed locally by Shield), paired with a LC tangerine pad... even on harder VAG clears and therefore don't necessarily think a rotary is needed, when using as a 1 step.

And using a wool pad it would be much harder to finish down LSP ready, kind of mitigating the polishes ability to be used as a 1 step in the first place.

For me it is (all other things being equal)

Medium cutting needed - pf2500
Heavy cutting needed - fg400 / SF 4000.

Obviously paint hardness and depth and the depth of the defects being the guide as to how aggressive (deep) one needs to / should go.
 
^glad to hear you got some cut with PF2500 w/ H20 Tangerine pads. I got door dinged with some scratches for the first time on my new car this weekend and this is the first area of correction I need. I have PF2500, SF4500, and just bough m105 in case. Do you think PF2500 will get these scratches out? The deepest of the scratches I can feel with my finger nail ever so slightly, but it doesn't grab and hang on to my nail. I'm not sure if its just white since the salt got ground into the paint, or if it got through the base coat. BTW, this is Toyota paint, so I think it is soft? What do you guys think?

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^glad to hear you got some cut with PF2500 w/ H20 Tangerine pads. I got door dinged with some scratches for the first time on my new car this weekend and this is the first area of correction I need. I have PF2500, SF4500, and just bough m105 in case. Do you think PF2500 will get these scratches out? The deepest of the scratches I can feel with my finger nail ever so slightly, but it doesn't grab and hang on to my nail. I'm not sure if its just white since the salt got ground into the paint, or if it got through the base coat. BTW, this is Toyota paint, so I think it is soft? What do you guys think?

12548264604_b81fb227f3_b.jpg


12547751885_d663221dac_b.jpg

That sucks man! Hopefully the 2500 knocks it out, I believe it will, if not M105 should since it your fingernail doesn't grab.
 
WG Uber = FG400

WG TSR = SI1500 (TSR has more cut less gloss than SF2500, and SF2500 has less cut more gloss than TSR)

WG Finishing Glaze = SF4000

Here's and updated chart:

UPDATED: Autopia Car Care Polish Comparison Chart - Autopia Forums - Auto Detailing & Car Care Discussion Forum

Thanks for that chart man! I am going to see what the Lightning Deal is today, and then make my decision. I appreciate everyone`s input. Looking at the chart, the Wolfgang seems easier as there is only 4 choices.
 
That sucks man! Hopefully the 2500 knocks it out, I believe it will, if not M105 should since it your fingernail doesn't grab.
Oh yea, when I came out of the store and saw the salt all smeared around my stomach dropped and I said "please only let it be brushed by someone". Nope, I'm assuming a door got it. That sucks. I made it 1 year and 3 months w/o a door ding.

In the worst spot I can feel it, but its not like I can hang my thumb in the scratch. If I get a chance to foam and wash it Wednesday I'll take a look and try to use all my new products to fix the scratches. Worst thing worst hopefully I can isolate them to small marks and touch up paint them if its through the base coat.
 
Thanks for that chart man! I am going to see what the Lightning Deal is today, and then make my decision. I appreciate everyone`s input. Looking at the chart, the Wolfgang seems easier as there is only 4 choices.

You can't go wrong with either WG or Menzerna. The ideal setup would be the following just to cover all bases:

FG400, SF2500, & SF4000

or

WG Uber, TSR, & Finishing Glaze
 
I really do not see a place for PF2500. I have a nearly new quart of it that I would gladly sell to anyone.

From my experience, FG400 cuts more than PF2500 and finishes better. If you require less cut, then use FG400 with a polishing pad.

For instance, on Sat, I tested PF2500/LC Orange, FG400/Rupes Yellow foam and FG400/Meguiars MF Cutting Disc.

The FG400/Rupes yellow foam combination cut more than PF2500/LC Orange, and also finished out with noticeably less haze. Even the FG400/MF Cutting Disc combination only finished slightly worse than the PF2500 combination.
 
FG400 finishes down nicely and very easy to use.


I agree 1000% I corrected a full size Chevy truck that had never been truly detailed in 8+ years and this worked amazing. Only one step polish then topped with Autofinesse Power Seal. I used three orange LC flat pads to do the entire truck with the FG400.






Pretty much swirl free, for a one step polish this did a great job.

swirl free

 
I really do not see a place for PF2500. I have a nearly new quart of it that I would gladly sell to anyone.

From my experience, FG400 cuts more than PF2500 and finishes better. If you require less cut, then use FG400 with a polishing pad.

For instance, on Sat, I tested PF2500/LC Orange, FG400/Rupes Yellow foam and FG400/Meguiars MF Cutting Disc.

The FG400/Rupes yellow foam combination cut more than PF2500/LC Orange, and also finished out with noticeably less haze. Even the FG400/MF Cutting Disc combination only finished slightly worse than the PF2500 combination.
Oh man really? I don't need a lot of cut though, only on that door ding. My finish has never had swirls instilled in it, but if I use PF2500 then I don't want to have it turn out badly. If I go over the PF2500 with SF4500 will that clear the finish up?
 
Oh man really? I don't need a lot of cut though, only on that door ding. My finish has never had swirls instilled in it, but if I use PF2500 then I don't want to have it turn out badly. If I go over the PF2500 with SF4500 will that clear the finish up?

Those scratches are deep. I doubt that anything other than wetsanding or a rotary/wool/M101 is going to get them out.

I wouldn't waste your time and the surrounding clearcoat, tbh. Just wipe off any paint transfer with Laquer thinner and run over it real quick with a finishing polish.

I would not get SF4500. Get SF4000. It will finish the same on most paint systems and will be a far more versatile product.
 
Those scratches are deep. I doubt that anything other than wetsanding or a rotary/wool/M101 is going to get them out.

I wouldn't waste your time and the surrounding clearcoat, tbh. Just wipe off any paint transfer with Laquer thinner and run over it real quick with a finishing polish.

I would not get SF4500. Get SF4000. It will finish the same on most paint systems and will be a far more versatile product.
I think some will come out, mainly the scrapes, but right where the door impacted my door they may not. Too late, I already have SF4500 :xyxthumbs:

Oh, and this car is a lease, so as long as I don't strike through I dont really care about how much clear coat is left to protect 2 years or longer down the line. Next owner's problem :) That being said I would like to work on my technique. I plan on trying to minimize all the scratches as much as they will and error on the side of not taking enough off rather than error on the side of a strike through. I can always try again at a later time when I feel more confident. I would like to get them as small as possible but accept that if it got through the CC/BC then it is what it is.
 
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