Tips for using Detailer's Paint Coating

Part Deux with my little Kia Spectra, as I just got done with a in-out detail on it, and am hitting the shower to clean up and cool off after this post.

All four wheels/tires were removed, one at a time, washed in and out, wiped dry, I had painted the wheels about 2 months ago with a Krylon gloss black, but never protected them with anything, so again, on went the DP Paint Coating on Wheels-Caps, and Tires were done with Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel in and out. All looking nice!

The car was not really dirty, just a bit dusty, and did a simple wipe down with plain water, and bucket with Grit Guard. Didn't want to hose the car down with water, because of the coating just applied on the wheels.

Paint surface still felt quite slick after the wipe down. That's a good sign.

I wanted to "top" this coating with something, just for the heck of it, more of an experiment actually, and have a slew of "easy" AG Goodies I could've used, Opti-Seal, UPGP, WGDGLS, DG Aquawax, Pinnacle Crystal Mist Detailer came to mind quickly.

I settled on WGDGLS WOWA Sealant. It spread ultra easy, and quite far with a MF Applicator, vanished very easily upon the paint, must've took me a total of 15 minute's time, and looked very nice. There was no odd interactions, the WGDGLS went on great, and just needed a quick walk around to eliminate-level the very few high spots. Probably used a dozen spritzes for the entire car if that.

The downside is, nope, WGDGLS is not quite as slick as DP Paint Coating.
The finish looks just as even, and as lustrous-glossy though, and apparently no harm no foul with this WOWA, and probably other WOWA's.

The paint is looking mighty fine considering it's a 2001 vehicle that sits outside 24/7 in desert summer heat.
Mark
 
Part Deux with my little Kia Spectra,

I wanted to "top" this coating with something, just for the heck of it, more of an experiment actually,


I settled on WGDGLS WOWA Sealant.


So to recap...

You used the Detailer's Paint Coating Prep, followed by Detailer's Paint Coating, and then the next day applied Wolfgang Deep Gloss Liquid Seal?

And got this?


DSCN0430.jpg


DSCN0431.jpg


DSCN0432.jpg


DSCN0435.jpg



Feed back please
 
Hello Mike-All,
Contrary to one of my earlier posts in this thread, where I lay claim to doing exactly like you had done, there was a bit of information excluded, that I did not have the DP Paint Coating Prep in my arsenal, I had "dumbly" omitted it from my order.

This omission of the Paint Coating Prep product could've influenced the application in some ways, and while not yet known at this point could also perhaps influence the longevity of the DP Paint Coating?

Prior to DP Coating application, which was about a week ago, I simply washed the car, Clayed entire Car, did a relatively quick DA Polishing with Menzerna SF4500 with a 5.5" Red LC Flat Pad (yes I chose a Red Pad, just something very mild with really no cut) then wiped the car down with CarPro Eraser prior to Coating Application.

I'm not actually sure just how well I removed previous LSP's, since there were some really durable Sealants, like Menz Powerlock, WGDGPS 3.0, and various WOWA's on it?

I figured it would be wise to not touch the car with anything for a good number of days to let the Paint Coating product fully cure upon the paint.
Mark
 
Mike (and others)--Does this make sense??

If the DP coating will last up to 2 years on it's own would it hold up longer if treated like an additional layer of CC and always protected by a layer of sealant or wax??

I know that the added LSP would hide the properties of the coating, but I'm thinking of it as a base coat on my wife's non metallic black Golf for the added protection against marring then topping with my LSP of choice to get the look I'm after.

What do you think???
 
Mike (and others)--Does this make sense??

If the DP coating will last up to 2 years on it's own

would it hold up longer if treated like an additional layer of CC and always protected by a layer of sealant or wax??


Good question and actually a real common question that relates to the topic of...

Layering


Two points but I'm sure others have their own opinion...

1. There's a thing called


More info in my article here, specifically post #8

Sacrificial Barrier Coating = The purpose of a wax or synthetic paint sealant
(I forgot I even wrote the above)




2. Besides all the science and what-not... most of us, myself included "do something" to the paint on our cars so often that it doesn't really matter if you're adding more and more protection because next week you'll probably test or use something else out on your car.

Point in fact...

After I bought my new truck we buffed it out using Pinnacle products. See here,

1987 Chevy 4x4 Monster Truck "Before & After" Pictures



After that I used all types of spray detailers and spray waxes to maintain the results and the paint always looks awesome.

But... I wanted to test out Bouncer's Capture the Rapture plus test out some new products, so I "did something" to the paint again.

Bouncers Capture the Rapture Monster Truck Detail


And is the norm for Autogeek, we now have even more new stuff in that I want to try out. So while right now my truck looks show car ready, truth is this Saturday I'm going to put something else on it...

Heck, I might even put some Detailer's Paint Coating on a section of the bed.


:)
 
Can you use MF applicators to apply the coatings also or is foam the only way to go? I like using a square MF applicator to apply UPGP, wondering if it can be used for the DP coatings or will it have a negative effect on the application such as using more product.
 
Can you use MF applicators to apply the coatings also or is foam the only way to go? I like using a square MF applicator to apply UPGP, wondering if it can be used for the DP coatings or will it have a negative effect on the application such as using more product.


You can. Kind of a personal preference thing. I agree that a MF pad will do a very good job of applying and spreading out an even coating.

The problem I "think" that most people agree on is that any type of thicker pad, like a foam pad wrapped with microfiber will tend to want to absorb a lot of your costly elixir.

If you look at products like GTechniq, CarPro, etc. they have you applying their coatings using thin thin thin little applicator pads as this limits the amount of wasted product seeped into the actual applicator pad.

So the answer to your question is "yes" you can apply a coating with a microfiber applicator pad but you might end up loosing a lot of product via absorption into the pad. If that's okay with you then that's the part I mean about personal preference in my second sentence.


:)
 
I still don't understand the desire to top any coating. If you don't like the "look" of the coating then don't waste your money buying one by putting a wax over it.

There are many waxes and sealants now that look great and can give you months if not close to a year in some cases with sealants.

Then you factor in spray-on booster waxes and sealants that are put on after every wash topping the topping that's topping the coating ..Jeeze.
 
I agree with silverfox. I understand its personal preference but I have friends that put 3 different waxes over one another and swear it looks different with each layer. Looks the same to me.
 
I still don't understand the desire to top any coating. If you don't like the "look" of the coating then don't waste your money buying one by putting a wax over it.

There are many waxes and sealants now that look great and can give you months if not close to a year in some cases with sealants.

Then you factor in spray-on booster waxes and sealants that are put on after every wash topping the topping that's topping the coating ..Jeeze.

It's a personal decision for each of us I reckon, and there's different reasons, and/or beliefs of what people accomplish with topping other products, even though they were quite recently applied. (like in my recent instance)

Some people believe an added depth, and gloss is achieved.

My reasons often are this: I wash my vehicles frequently, and living here in the desert southwest, you'd probably concur if you lived here, it is impossible for a freshly detailed vehicle to look freshly detailed 5 hours later here.

This isn't like other enviornments, like Venice Fla, where my mother lived for 22 years, where the air (other than the salt) is clean, dust free, and every time it rains there, you essentially get a free wash job! :-)

When I used to detail my mother's little Kia down there when I'd vacation, and return almost a year later, the car virtually looked the same, minus any slick feel from a wax. Collinite 476 was usually applied, so it would hold up while I was gone.

Here, in NM, it's a futile attempt to keep a vehicle in pristine showroom condition. Even a well built garage won't stop the ravages of dusts here. To keep a house clean, and dust free, you need a full time house keeper. Start at one end of the house, by the time you get to the other, just start all over again! LOL

Sorry for such rambling, and an intro of what I do, and what I'm trying to get at.
Yes, I am particular the way my vehicles look, and that probably comes from many new vehicles, and collector cars I've owned over the years. One time a friend joked and laughed when he seen the treads of my '67 Stingray's Tires treated! LOL
(Gotta get those film pics converted to disc!)

After I wash my vehicles, I see water spots. No matter how much I wring a towel when drying, there's remnants left behind. I've always had a Water Sprite on hand in my arsenal for the past 30 years, which does a lovely job of eliminating virtually all, but rubbing anything over the paint, you will likely incur marring, and swirling, so lately, I omit that step.

Thus, after a wash, I used to commonly use some form of Detailer Spray, to again give the vehicle that "freshly detailed" look.

With my foray into the world of AutoGeek Online, I of course have found an entire world of new cutting edge mind blowing products.

I've found that the WOWA's, beside the great detailing sprays sold here (Like Pinnacle Crystal Mist, or Aquawax) they are virtually as simple to use as a detailer Spray, and offer better protection.

My Kia pictured, is actually one of the worst vehicles I've ever bought, as far as beauty, and quality of paint is concerned. They have gotten better in recent years though.
This car was originally bought for my mother, who's now 81 and can no longer drive.
Yet, it's been a very reliable car, and other than regular maintainence, I've replaced an alternator, and two CV Rubber Boots in 7 years. For $3900 7 years ago, it was I feel a very good buy.

Hope this all makes a little sense,
Mark
 
Won't it be fun when the next greatest coating revelation comes out which in turn sells more polishers used to abrade off the previous greatest coating thats in turn topped with three layers of toppers to make the surface ready for the new must have coating?

The Junkman would love this !
 
You can. Kind of a personal preference thing. I agree that a MF pad will do a very good job of applying and spreading out an even coating.

The problem I "think" that most people agree on is that any type of thicker pad, like a foam pad wrapped with microfiber will tend to want to absorb a lot of your costly elixir.

If you look at products like GTechniq, CarPro, etc. they have you applying their coatings using thin thin thin little applicator pads as this limits the amount of wasted product seeped into the actual applicator pad.

So the answer to your question is "yes" you can apply a coating with a microfiber applicator pad but you might end up loosing a lot of product via absorption into the pad. If that's okay with you then that's the part I mean about personal preference in my second sentence.


:)

Thanx Mike, that's what I figured.
 
Thanx Mike, that's what I figured.

One member who mentioned using this DP Coating said he used the CarPro Sponge, and their Suede Microfiber sheets to apply. And got good results.

A couple months ago, I went on a quest here in this little one horse town, to find some similar MF Suede, for use with applying such Sealants, WOWA's, trim products, etc.

Wally World, no dice, at least not in their Textile Dept. But I found something quite similar in their dishwashing products dept, and the price was cheap.

Staples also sells some MF Suede cloths for things like Monitors, TV Screens.

I'm going to try some of these in the near future, and see how they work?
Mark
 
Perhaps I didn't explain my reasoning well enough. This is from the description of DP Coating "The durable shell of protection provided by Detailer’s Paint Coating is harder than factory clear coat, making your paint less susceptible to scratches, wash-induced swirl marks, etchings caused by bird droppings and water spots caused by hard water"

I don't know of any sealant or wax that can make the claim of harder than factory clear--only coatings. So this is why one would want a coating, however, perhaps one likes the look of a particular wax or sealant or hybrid that offers a bit more wetness or deepness. I'm not talking about layer upon layer of LSP as I'm well aware of the point of deminishing returns when it comes to layering.

So what I'm asking is does it make sense to put on a coat of DP Coating to gain the advantages of the "harder than factory clear coat" then give it a coat of traditional LSP for looks and to protect the Coating further and act as a sacraficial barrier?? Will it extend the life of the coating??
 
I still don't understand the desire to top any coating.

Some do it for the look, some do it for more protection. Some probably do it just because they can and some do it because they find detailing their car an escape from the world.

Best news is this is still America and you and everyone else are free to do whatever you want to your car's finish.

Keep in mind, in the "forum world", the kind of people that are into the detailing scene are probably just a tick more AR about their car's finish than the masses.

:laughing:


Won't it be fun when the next greatest coating revelation comes out which in turn sells more polishers used to abrade off the previous greatest coating thats in turn topped with three layers of toppers to make the surface ready for the new must have coating?


Hey to each their own Jim... one thing for sure... there's more cool products being introduced than ever before. It's a great time to be alive if you're a "Car Guy"!

Getting great results has never been easier and all these new products, pads and tools are making detailing your car more fun and less work than ever.


:laughing:
 
Some do it for the look, some do it for more protection. Some probably do it just because they can and some do it because they find detailing their car an escape from the world.

Mike---"So what I'm asking is does it make sense to put on a coat of DP Coating to gain the advantages of the "harder than factory clear coat" then give it a coat of traditional LSP for looks and to protect the Coating further and act as a sacraficial barrier?? Will it extend the life of the coating??"
 
Mike---"So what I'm asking is does it make sense to put on a coat of DP Coating to gain the advantages of the "harder than factory clear coat" then give it a coat of traditional LSP for looks and to protect the Coating further and act as a sacraficial barrier?? Will it extend the life of the coating??"

:whs:

I'm very curious to know this as well.

My 2 cents. It says it can be topped. And just like layering a wax over a sealant as a sacrificial barrier the same should apply here. Who knows how long what wax or sealant you use over it lasts, but I don't see how it would hurt anything.

However IMO if you're doing a coating, then just leave it coated, that's why you're doing it, so you can take some effort out of the process and just do maintenance washes to keep it clean. If you like testing and playing with LSP's like me, I'd prob never coat my entire car. I like playing with products and using paint cleaners and polishes and such

Just my opinion!
 
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