To Rotary... Or Not to Rotary

TroyScherer

TroyScherer

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I have been using my PCxp for almost 3 years now. In the past I have primarily done my own vehicles but in the last 2 years I began to do others on the side for customers. I have been contemplating upgrading to a rotary for a while now but am not sure if I need to, due to new tech for DA appliction. If I do upgrade I have my eye on the Flex PE14-2-150. So what is everyones opinon? Any and all advice is appreciated. Thanks
 
TroyScherer said:
I have been using my PCxp for almost 3 years now. In the past I have primarily done my own vehicles but in the last 2 years I began to do others on the side for customers. I have been contemplating upgrading to a rotary for a while now but am not sure if I need to, due to new tech for DA appliction. If I do upgrade I have my eye on the Flex PE14-2-150. So what is everyones opinon? Any and all advice is appreciated. Thanks
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This is my personal opinion. Nothing can beat the finish of a rotary, it corrects faster than any DA and with the correct knowledge you can ditch your DA and do all your work with rotary. i am a rotary guy and yes i have my PCXP but i dont use it for correction. As long as you practice and take your time to learn on the rotary you will be good at it. dont expect it to take it out of the box and get results like you did with your PC right away. it takes practice to get a good finish down, but once you do get that technique you will be amazed at the results you get with a rotary. my vote says you get the rotary and practice as much as you can with it. it will pay off, trust me.
 
I personally use both tools for correction. Both have goods and bads. The rotary has a learning curve and does require more attention when using it. Perhaps if you do not feel comfortable with a rotary, you can look into the Flex 3401. Very powerful and capable machine.
 
I use both the rotary and the PC. I only pull out the rotary on "Lazarus projects". It may take a little longer with the PC, but it is safer.
 
D/A's have come a long way, no wrong choice with modern polishes and pads available to suit either user.
 
TroyScherer said:
I have been using my PCxp for almost 3 years now. In the past I have primarily done my own vehicles but in the last 2 years I began to do others on the side for customers. I have been contemplating upgrading to a rotary for a while now but am not sure if I need to, due to new tech for DA appliction. If I do upgrade I have my eye on the Flex PE14-2-150. So what is everyones opinon? Any and all advice is appreciated. Thanks
Click to expand...
Since you've been detailing for almost 3 years..maybe it's time for you to step up your game and learn how to use a rotary. The new Flex rotary is an awesome rotary. Will pick up the Flex before I pick up the Makita for a detail. Another choice would be getting the Flex DA (3401).. small learning curve and will get the job done.:buffing:
 
Rsurfer said:
Since you've been detailing for almost 3 years..maybe it's time for you to step up your game and learn how to use a rotary. The new Flex rotary is an awesome rotary. Will pick up the Flex before I pick up the Makita for a detail. Another choice would be getting the Flex DA (3401).. small learning curve and will get the job done.:buffing:
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I guess the 3401 would be an option. I am wondering if it would be able to handle hard clear coats like on some Gm and VW vehicles. the 3401 would be a step in the right direction but from what I have read and been told you can't beat a rotary for correction ability or perfection when your proficient.
 
93fox said:
This is my personal opinion. Nothing can beat the finish of a rotary, it corrects faster than any DA and with the correct knowledge you can ditch your DA and do all your work with rotary. i am a rotary guy and yes i have my PCXP but i dont use it for correction. As long as you practice and take your time to learn on the rotary you will be good at it. dont expect it to take it out of the box and get results like you did with your PC right away. it takes practice to get a good finish down, but once you do get that technique you will be amazed at the results you get with a rotary. my vote says you get the rotary and practice as much as you can with it. it will pay off, trust me.
Click to expand...
rotary only way to go 300 times faster and better also
 
93fox said:
This is my personal opinion. Nothing can beat the finish of a rotary, it corrects faster than any DA and with the correct knowledge you can ditch your DA and do all your work with rotary. i am a rotary guy and yes i have my PCXP but i dont use it for correction. As long as you practice and take your time to learn on the rotary you will be good at it. dont expect it to take it out of the box and get results like you did with your PC right away. it takes practice to get a good finish down, but once you do get that technique you will be amazed at the results you get with a rotary. my vote says you get the rotary and practice as much as you can with it. it will pay off, trust me.
Click to expand...

:dblthumb2::iagree:
 
I just took this step myself. I used my rotary for the first time this weekend just going over a junk panel that I wet sanded. Went over and over it with different compounds and pads on different speeds and spent a few hours getting a feel for it. I don't have anything to offer in answer to your question...
I have had the Flex 3401 for a couple years and love it so much I kept my business with Flex and got the PE rotary that you are considering. It's a fine machine!! Smooth, quiet, and light... Not that I have other rotaries to compare it to LOL...
 
CEE DOG said:
I just took this step myself. I used my rotary for the first time this weekend just going over a junk panel that I wet sanded. Went over and over it with different compounds and pads on different speeds and spent a few hours getting a feel for it. I don't have anything to offer in answer to your question...
I have had the Flex 3401 for a couple years and love it so much I kept my business with Flex and got the PE rotary that you are considering. It's a fine machine!! Smooth, quiet, and light... Not that I have other rotaries to compare it to LOL...
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grab a blue pad and some po85rd with your rotary and you'll see the difference! :dblthumb2:
 
TroyScherer said:
I guess the 3401 would be an option. I am wondering if it would be able to handle hard clear coats like on some Gm and VW vehicles. the 3401 would be a step in the right direction but from what I have read and been told you can't beat a rotary for correction ability or perfection when your proficient.
Click to expand...
:iagree:with what you said, but getting a 3401 sure beats using a RO and it will handle hard clears.
 
I used a PC for a couple years...upgraded to a Griots..a much better DA IMO...much stronger to where i dont have to use speed 6 most times and will keep 'turning' even when strong pressure is applied.

I just bought a Flex 3401 off someone selling it ...NEW but at a discounted price and im very anxious to try it....im hoping it will speed up the process some since i can use 6.5" or 7" pads on it...when with the PC 5.5" is usually the best way to go (though on larger vehicles ive gotten good results with 7" pads on the PC with soft paint).

Ive been wondering the same thing though...rotary or no. The time saver would be a HUGE plus for full correction...but i get a lot of 'single pass' clients and i still want to offer as much correction for them as possible even with a single pass...and im HOPING the Flex 3401 will offer this when using it with something like D151.

I wonder this though...for the rotary users...what do you do with the panel edges and smaller areas...I THINK rotaries come with attachments/BPs for smaller pads like 4" or so...but how risky is it to use a rotary in small spaces like that...and for the body panels, do you go over those with a DA instead or what?
 
Wills.WindowsAndWheels said:
I wonder this though...for the rotary users...what do you do with the panel edges and smaller areas...I THINK rotaries come with attachments/BPs for smaller pads like 4" or so...but how risky is it to use a rotary in small spaces like that...and for the body panels, do you go over those with a DA instead or what?
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Correct. there are backing plate for 4 inch pads and even 3 inch pads. From my personal experience, the rotary seems to create alot less heat than a DA. Ive done entire cars with just my rotary and finished hologram free and swirl free. The only time i use my DA is to apply sealants and waxes. Nothing comes close to jeweling with a rotary IMO...
 
93fox said:
Correct. there are backing plate for 4 inch pads and even 3 inch pads. From my personal experience, the rotary seems to create alot less heat than a DA. Ive done entire cars with just my rotary and finished hologram free and swirl free. The only time i use my DA is to apply sealants and waxes. Nothing comes close to jeweling with a rotary IMO...
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I thought the whole thing with rotaries was they create MORE heat and thats part of the reason they risk with paint burning? You use it even on body panel edges? What do you do as far as speed setting? Also, about how much time would you say you save on average? Sorry you got me all anxious now lol.
 
93fox said:
This is my personal opinion. Nothing can beat the finish of a rotary, it corrects faster than any DA and with the correct knowledge you can ditch your DA and do all your work with rotary. i am a rotary guy and yes i have my PCXP but i dont use it for correction. As long as you practice and take your time to learn on the rotary you will be good at it. dont expect it to take it out of the box and get results like you did with your PC right away. it takes practice to get a good finish down, but once you do get that technique you will be amazed at the results you get with a rotary. my vote says you get the rotary and practice as much as you can with it. it will pay off, trust me.
Click to expand...
Very well written...I agree 100% Once you get good with a rotary you'll never turn back to your DA for correction. Sometimes I pull out my Flex 3401 and begin the correction process just to put the Flex back in it's drawer 20 minutes into the job. The rotary polisher hands down produces better faster results.
 
tuscarora dave said:
Very well written...I agree 100% Once you get good with a rotary you'll never turn back to your DA for correction. Sometimes I pull out my Flex 3401 and begin the correction process just to put the Flex back in it's drawer 20 minutes into the job. The rotary polisher hands down produces better faster results.
Click to expand...


Which one(s) do/have you used...what do you look for in a rotary?
 
TroyScherer said:
I have been using my PCxp for almost 3 years now. In the past I have primarily done my own vehicles but in the last 2 years I began to do others on the side for customers. I have been contemplating upgrading to a rotary for a while now but am not sure if I need to, due to new tech for DA appliction.

Due to new tech for DA application: Are you referring to the Meguiar's DA MF Correction System? Been alot of good reviews on this system. But, correct technique seems to be as important with this system as it is with rotary usage.

(Taking the Meg's system above out of the equation), true paint correction, IMO, is done with a rotary. One must use the proper technique, speed, pad selection, compound (which will or can induce scratches; and if so, another less aggressive compound with the proper speed and pad--dependent on skill level of user with a rotary). Then a swirl remover (not a filler) using the rotary with proper speed, pad selection, and technique. Finally, application of LSP with the rotary, DA, or hand. All of this is variable, depending on one's experience with the different vehicles one comes across---and with your 3 years experience, if you so desire, you should be able to transition to the rotary with ease!

If I do upgrade I have my eye on the Flex PE14-2-150. So what is everyones opinon? Any and all advice is appreciated. Thanks
Click to expand...

IMO, (and this includes the cost factor) you can stay with your DA for spreading waxes/sealants, or, for very time consuming correction--or you could go to the Meg's MF system?, but a rotary is the way to go for true paint correction. Perhaps practicing for familiarity with the rotary will help reduce your anxiety.

But if you have had good results with what you have been using--then a change in tools is up to you. I personally feel that continual, and too aggressive paint correction will reduce the amount of clear coat on modern paint finishes and thus its all important built-in UV protection. It doesn't, and perhaps shouldn't, always have to be done.

Sorry for my rambling. Just my thoughts.

Bob
 
I have been using a rotary for over 20 years. Started out with a fixed speed Craftsman electric (boat anchor) and quickly changed to an air polisher which varies the speed with the trigger which comes in very handy along seams, door edges etc. The air polisher is very light also and I have used the same one made by Chicago Pneumatic all this time. I have never used a DA style because the rotary does everything I need it to do. There is a definate learning curve tho. Especially along panel edges where the paint is the thinnest. The variable speed trigger is the most important issue in my opinion.

Dave
 
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