Trouble with 2016 Mustang (Black) paint.

Fords in general (and I will not vouch for 2015/2016 mustangs) generally have pretty stout clear coat.
I have an 2005 Mustang GT, I've done two other black Mustang's 2011/2012 black. The only issue with the last 2012 I did was the hood and rear left quarter panel were repainted. So I was changing pads to adapt. For the native paint, I was using BOSS G-15 / BOSS MF Cut Pad and BOSS Fast Correcting Cream. For the repainted parts I stepped down to the BOSS Orange pads.

On my Mustang GT, I can throw anything at it.. 105/205, Menz FG400, Fast Correcting Cream, Pinnacle Advanced Compound... all finish off flawlessly.

I'll admit that I know nothing about the CG line up of products. When I was preparing to stock up on some, I was advised, from this forum, that CG can be hit or miss with their product line-up. And now that I've used Pinnacle Advanced Compound & Finishing Polish, the Menz line-up (FG400/SF4000/SF4500) and now the BOSS lineup, I'm hard pressed to switch to anything else.

I admit for AIO, HD Speed is my go to.... well....er.... Until I tried BOSS Finishing Sealant. The BOSS lineup wasn't a quick win/conversion, but I must say that they grew on and I see the functionality, versatility and results are all very balance.

My question to the OP is, are you absolutely sure that you are seeing marring? Do you have pics? What happens if you wipe the area with a NR wash, IPA or Erasure? My suspicion is that perhaps your not seeing marring but a smear in the polish oils. It's just a hunch and not suggesting it's not marring.. Just asking.
 
WRAPT C5Z06 said:
I didn't say all their products suck, but there are a lot better polishes on the market.
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Oh I completely agree, especially for heavy compounds. I myself wasn't expecting much from V36,V38 but the few times I used the product it actually worked extremely well. Just my 2 cents
 
paul_g said:
Fords in general (and I will not vouch for 2015/2016 mustangs) generally have pretty stout clear coat.
I have an 2005 Mustang GT, I've done two other black Mustang's 2011/2012 black. The only issue with the last 2012 I did was the hood and rear left quarter panel were repainted. So I was changing pads to adapt. For the native paint, I was using BOSS G-15 / BOSS MF Cut Pad and BOSS Fast Correcting Cream. For the repainted parts I stepped down to the BOSS Orange pads.

On my Mustang GT, I can throw anything at it.. 105/205, Menz FG400, Fast Correcting Cream, Pinnacle Advanced Compound... all finish off flawlessly.

I'll admit that I know nothing about the CG line up of products. When I was preparing to stock up on some, I was advised, from this forum, that CG can be hit or miss with their product line-up. And now that I've used Pinnacle Advanced Compound & Finishing Polish, the Menz line-up (FG400/SF4000/SF4500) and now the BOSS lineup, I'm hard pressed to switch to anything else.

I admit for AIO, HD Speed is my go to.... well....er.... Until I tried BOSS Finishing Sealant. The BOSS lineup wasn't a quick win/conversion, but I must say that they grew on and I see the functionality, versatility and results are all very balance.

My question to the OP is, are you absolutely sure that you are seeing marring? Do you have pics? What happens if you wipe the area with a NR wash, IPA or Erasure? My suspicion is that perhaps your not seeing marring but a smear in the polish oils. It's just a hunch and not suggesting it's not marring.. Just asking.
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https://youtu.be/h856LDuIqhM
Here is the link to a video I uploaded to youtube with the current condition of my paint. Take a look and let me know what you think!
 
WRAPT C5Z06 said:
As I said before, I think you're dealing with soft paint. Marring is A LOT more noticeable on black versus any other color. PM me your address. I'll send you a sample of HD Polish. It's good stuff. Should help with the marring. CG polishes suck, IME.
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https://youtu.be/h856LDuIqhM
Here is a video of the current condition of my paint (where i'm stuck) let me know what you think. There are other videos of my current paints condition on my channel check them out when you get the chance! I will get back to you with that address thanks!
 
pdqgp said:
HDSpeed and a green pad. Hex logic is what I use. Any of the flat ones will work too. It just plain. Works awesome.
Click to expand...

https://youtu.be/h856LDuIqhM
Here is a video of the current condition of my paint (where i'm stuck) let me know what you think. There are other videos of my current paints condition on my channel check them out when you get the chance!
 
idriveblackcars said:
Oh I completely agree, especially for heavy compounds. I myself wasn't expecting much from V36,V38 but the few times I used the product it actually worked extremely well. Just my 2 cents
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I believe that my paints clear coat is just extremely soft. Take a look at my youtube page to see what I'm talking about in regards to where I'm stuck with my paint.
https://youtu.be/h856LDuIqhM

Let me know what you think!
 
Ruben12 said:
https://youtu.be/h856LDuIqhM
Here is a video of the current condition of my paint (where i'm stuck) let me know what you think. There are other videos of my current paints condition on my channel check them out when you get the chance!
Click to expand...

V38 is a about a 3 on a scale of 1-10. certainly shouldn't be seeing any marring or scratches from it. Depends on the pad used though. Not a CG Polish user so I can't say. I've not had any issues with the three Mustang's I've done, all 2015+. White drop top, Racing Red and Orange 5.0's. All came out spotless.

I'd likely finish it with HDSpeed and a Green Pad on a consumer DA or a White Pad on a Flex 3401 which is what I have. Both should finish it out extremely, extremely well. HDSpeed will finish better than V38. McKey 37 from what I've seen is a by far the best Jeweling product out there too.

You asked and I'll make this my last comment on it, I think you are doing yourself a dis-service by not trying HDSpeed and an appropriate light polishing pad for your DA Machine.
 
IMO, I think pdqgp is correct. I don't see that as micro marring, rather, not enough correction.
That paint would have to be mighty soft and I would see haze, which is not present.

But lets approach it as if it's micro marring... I would do a test spot with the least aggressive product.
Perhaps a pad dedicated to polishing and Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish, Menz SF4500 (or whatever they call it today).

Another option is to use a polishing pad and pickup some Megs M205. SMAT will continue to work and not break down as you use the product. I would butter the polishing bad, then rinse it in water, leaving just watered down residue of the product in the pad. Then use a spray bottle with water and mist the test spot, then polish with the pad with depleated M205. Wipe up with an ultra soft, clean gold cobra MF.

In otherwords, if the products and pads are causing the marring, you're going to have to find a way to step them down while still maintaining correction properties (a finishing bad will not correct...).

If that works, and it clears up, you have very soft paint and you're going to have to gingerly do the rest of the car the same manner.
If that doesn't work, and makes no difference (i.e. no better, no worse) in your test spot, then the products and techniques you are employing are not working enough.

As stated Ford is pretty stout paint. I just did a Lincoln Town Car and a BOSS White Pad (most aggressive foam in the BOSS line-up), BOSS G-15 with BOSS Fast Correcting Cream... Didn't put a dent in the paint... I switched to BOSS MF Cutting Pad and even then, 6 section passes looked good, but still had defects. I had to move to 8 to 10 section passes before I got 80% correction. Same with a 2012 Mustang I just did. In the case of the Towncar, the only other option would have been to (in case of emergency, break glass) and pull Megs M105, which I consider the most aggressive in my stock. But with that comes dusting, and needing to tape everything off... The TC was a two day job that needed to be done in one day.

Give option #1 a try and report back.
 
OP PM:

What brand of pad do you recommend I buy to finish up the scratches/haze leftover from the compounding. From what I have been reading HDspeed has been highly talked about for polishing. What product do you think I should buy in your opinion(Pinnacle/Menz). My only problem is buying a 16oz bottle/pad and I don't get any results from it and them not being any use to me. The chemical guys finishing pad along with the V38 finishing polish didn't really do much at all to clear up the haze/compounding scratches.
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PM's are good, but Forum Posts are better as you'll get more visibility and help from many.

I can't tell which pad or product is best, that comes down to the old what is better, a Chevy or a Ford.
All I can say is what I said above, you need to identify what the actual problem is. Are you not correcting enough, or is your paint soft?

HD Speed is an AIO (all in one) compound, light-polish & sealant. It's very effective and works great... Is that your fix? don't know. You'll need to dial it in.
Another thing is to understand is the differences in technology. Menz, Pinnical use diminishing abrasives. Longer work-times where abrasives break down over time. Megs 105/205 use Super Micro Abrasives that don't break down over time.

As far as pads, I stock many. Entire lineup of Griot's BOSS pads, entire line up of LC CCS pads, and various LC Hydro-tech's.

How many pads are you using for the project? You should be switching out pads often as they will become saturated with product and become less effective in cut.
 
paul_g said:
OP PM:



PM's are good, but Forum Posts are better as you'll get more visibility and help from many.

I can't tell which pad or product is best, that comes down to the old what is better, a Chevy or a Ford.
All I can say is what I said above, you need to identify what the actual problem is. Are you not correcting enough, or is your paint soft?

HD Speed is an AIO (all in one) compound, light-polish & sealant. It's very effective and works great... Is that your fix? don't know. You'll need to dial it in.
Another thing is to understand is the differences in technology. Menz, Pinnical use diminishing abrasives. Longer work-times where abrasives break down over time. Megs 105/205 use Super Micro Abrasives that don't break down over time.

As far as pads, I stock many. Entire lineup of Griot's BOSS pads, entire line up of LC CCS pads, and various LC Hydro-tech's.

How many pads are you using for the project? You should be switching out pads often as they will become saturated with product and become less effective in cut.
Click to expand...

(I am using 3 pads but just for testing because those are the only pads I have currently) The results I got from the chemical guys orange hex pad from from V36 were many many micro scratches from the product. As a result I figured that that pad was too aggressive for my paint. I then went with the white pad and V36 which did somewhat clear up the scratches but didn't perfect it. From that point on I went with a gray pad (finishing pad) and V38 finishing polish and it didn't clear up any of the micro scratches. I have only ran test spots. I haven't tried the entire car. After one test spot I washed the pads before doing another. I noticed that with the finishing pad and V38 when not applying any pressure just the weight of the machine it didn't do anything to the paint. I then added 5 pounds of pressure and it induced more micro scratching. I am just completely lost as to what to do next. When correcting I would wait until the haze from the polish is gone and that there is no more leftover product. I THINK I have slightly soft paint?
 
I don't claim to know much about chemical guys pads or product. But looking at some references, the Orange Hex is a medium to moderate cut. V36 on the Autopia Cut Chart is about #6 on a scale of 0 to 10. V38 is about a #3...

V36 is the equivalent of a light swirl remover... i.e. Pinnacle Advanced Swirl Remover.... As I said before, unless something changed in 2016 (i.e. water based VOC complaint paint) or your car was repainted, Ford is usually pretty tough... Not as tough as Mercedes or GM, but tough... Generally Honda, Subaru etc, is pretty soft and corrects quickly. Most Fords I break out the M105 (as I have done on my Mustang.)

The last two Fords I did were with GG BOSS Fast Correcting Cream (equivalent to V34 on cut scale) and BOSS Micro Fiber Fast Cut pads. And I had to "work it". I usually use 6 pads to compound a car, 4 to polish and one to finish/seal.

I don't know where you are located, but my suggestion is to connect with a boutique / high-line detailer (i.e. a typical Auto Geek detailer) and set an appointment to show them what you're seeing and see if they can compound out your car and coat it.

This is where good before & after work comes in:
1.) Close inspection with photography
2.) Paint Measurements with a PTG
3.) Masking off and doing a 50/50 and re document with photography.

IMO, I don't think you have enough cut... but that is diagnosis from many miles and youtube away.

Hope all this helps.. It certainly has helped me because now I feel I know a bit more about CG products and where they sit in the line-up.
 
All this talk is making to go buy the products and test them out.

Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk
 
New Mustangs have a soft clear coat. The black GT350 I'm currently working is no exception. I'm using Rupes machines 21/75 mostly, green pads with Sonax cutmax, then yellow and white with M205. Finishes off beautifully. I tried microfiber and 205 but it left some minor swirls, for a single step correction, M205 and the yellow pad are good.
 
Ruben12 said:
Yeah I made sure to decontaminate the paint. I also removed the possible iron contaminants. The car is only 5 months old, so the paint was in pretty good condition. Maybe the Chemical Guys orange hex pad is different from the orange pad you are talking about? I have literally tried everything with this paint and it is just proving to me that it is extremely soft. I attacked the paint with V36 and a less abrasive pad (White) that also left a haze and some marring. I then went V38 and a soft pad (gray) and it cleared some of the marring up but not all of it. There is still a haze to the paint and micro marring left over. I'm thinking I might have to change pads/products. Any suggestions as to what I should do next?
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Most of my pads are the hexalogic pads and the Orange pad is actually the light cutting pad. The yellow is the heavy cutting pad. Are you priming the pads with product? Letting the pad run on the paint with dry sections could cause some marring.
 
If I can chime in, I've used the CG V-Line of polishes before and I'd just suggest some V32 on an Orange pad. The Torx buffer is alright, along the same lines of a Porter Cable buffer. Generally speaking the V Swirl Remover isn't really bad but the CG V-Line of polishes are a bit slower to work than most other items. V32 on an Orange pad will finish pretty good without really needing a finishing polish and this is on my super soft Mazda paint. I'd suggest going over with V32 as an actual compounding step instead of using V swirl remover. I haven't really found the swirl remover does much in all honesty, its basically inbetween a compound and an actual polish. It's great for removing your automatic car wash swirls but for what I'm seeing on the youtube video you uploaded, you need to use an actual compound on it and then go over it with either a red and a black pad and V38.
 
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