Tundra single stage paint - HELP!

[Tundra]

Greetings fellow autogeeks. First post!

I have a Tundra (if you couldn't guess from the screen name). It's a 2008. The problem is the paint sucks! I've done some digging and found out that on some models Toyota uses single stage painting. Basically, there's no clear coat on top of the paint. My take is that clear is mixed in.

I have hand-sized marks on the truck that look like oxidation. The marks are shiny in the middle but have oval shaped oxidized rings around them. Their not terribly noticeable to the normal person, but I'm on the autogeek forum... none of us are normal people about this stuff!

I decided to try to polish the rings out with my PC7424 using Klasse all-in-one (orange pad), followed by Klasse sealer (white pad), and then carnuba MaxWax (gray pad). I watched the various vids on autogeek about how to polish (6 passes up/down, left/right). The spot did improve after this treatment, but I can still see it in direct sunlight.

Do I need to use a more abrasive product or pad?
If I keep polishing can I damage the paint?

Thanks!

 

[JonMiles]

You need to step up to a slightly more aggressive technique to get rid of the oxidation.

Try polishing with something that is actually abrasive, a polish like megs 205 or menzerna SIP. The AIO will effectively clean the paint but doesn't have any real bite to it.

 

[buddhadog]

Oval shaped rings suggests the truck has been spot painted . Did you buy it new ?

 

[Kristopher1129]

Oval shaped rings suggests the truck has been spot painted . Did you buy it new ?

Those were my thoughts as well. It's not normal for oxidation to take the shape of oval rings. Sounds like it may have been painted to me as well.

I think we need some pictures! icture:

 

[Tundra]

I didn't buy it new, but the truck hasn't been resprayed. Unfortunately this is a known issue with white Tundra's.

So what I'm hearing is more agressive product. How about the pad? I'm using Lake Country orange for the polishing. Stick w/ that?

 

[aerogt01]

I wouldn't go any more aggressive than orange for what you're doing.

 

[tuscarora dave]

I'd go Ultimate Compound with white pad & if that don't cut it step up to an orange pad.

 

[Tundra]

Okay... just read about the ultimate compound. Sounds good. After that klasse sealer and wax again?

 

[aerogt01]

Okay... just read about the ultimate compound. Sounds good. After that klasse sealer and wax again?

If you after you're done with the compound/polishing you look really closely and make sure the marks aren't there. Then you're good to go with the Klasse!

 

[Rayaz]

2008 and the paint is shot already? Rather than going with various compounds, get aggressive with Toyota and see if they will do a good will respray. White should not oxidize this soon no matter!

 

[Black Car]

yup, I'm with Rayaz. If it was repainted maybe try to find the body shop that did it.

 

[buddhadog]

Yes Toyota white single stage paint does oxidize after a couple years ..ive seen it a few times now. But your right it shouldnt happen so quickly!!

Ive also had to use heavy compound and high speed buffing to get the oxidzed paint off. This isnt right either for such new vehicles .

 

[Tundra]

2008 and the paint is shot already? Rather than going with various compounds, get aggressive with Toyota and see if they will do a good will respray. White should not oxidize this soon no matter!

I really would rather not have a respray. I tried the compound and it worked really well. The spots disappeared and I have only done the compounding. It should look great after a polish/seal/wax. Thanks!

 

[03slvrsnake]

My dad has a white 2008 tundra and it also has the "white ovals" like your talking about (it has never been repainted). I believe he has two on the hood and some others on the bed panels. I did a light paint correction on it, and did not get them out. Were you able to get yours out? I'm going to try a more aggressive approach with M105 and a orange or yellow pad in the near future and see if that gets it out.

 

[diablojota]

If it's a 2008, you should go to Toyota and complain. There may be a TSB or warranty work that can be done...

 

[Tundra]

My dad has a white 2008 tundra and it also has the "white ovals" like your talking about (it has never been repainted). I believe he has two on the hood and some others on the bed panels. I did a light paint correction on it, and did not get them out. Were you able to get yours out? I'm going to try a more aggressive approach with M105 and a orange or yellow pad in the near future and see if that gets it out.

Yes, I was able to get the 'ovals' out 90% of the way. If I look closely in direct sun I can see where they were. Luckily there were only 3-4 so no it's not noticeable at all. I used the ultimate compound that was recommended earlier on an orange pad. The white pad didn't touch it. I had to go over the surface multiple times (as if I were polishing). I polished and waxed after that. It looks good now. I will still make a visit to my local Toyota dealer though to log my complaint.

 

[jbgrant]

Did/does toyota (or anybody else for that matter) use single stage on any current models? This is news to me.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Besides chewing off the dead oxidized paint with a compound, most single stage paints react very well to polishing oils like you find in products like #7, #3 or #80 in the Meguiar's line.

The oils can fill any microscopic voids in the paint and help to prevent future oxidation just by insuring oxygen in the air or in the form of water cannot interact with the paint and cause oxidation. Of course sealing the paint after polishing is a given.

How these polishing oils work is described here,

The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

This is key...
Saturation Application --> The First Application
This is a mostly unknown technique and that is to let the first application penetrate and soak into the paint for up to 24 hours before wiping the product off. The idea being to really apply the product wet and work it in really well and the walk away.

The idea is to allow the heavy concentration of oils to penetrate and seep into the paint for maximum saturation before removing the product and continuing with the process. In this case I finished applying the first application of #7 around 9:00 pm and then left the #7 to soak in until the next day. I started wiping the product off then next morning right about 10:00am.

Some will argue if this works or not buy my experience is that with a porous single stage paint it does in fact help. One thing for sure it can't hurt.

Paper Test for Capillary Action
If you place a few drops of #7 onto a piece of paper and then monitor it over a few days you will see the oils in the #7 migrate or seep away from the actual drop of product. It does this through capillary action and the same thing can work to your car's paints' advantage if it's a single stage lacquer or enamel paint.

I placed a few drops about the size of a nickel on a piece of standard printer paper around 3:00pm.

The next day I took these pictures at approximately 10:00am, (19 hours later), note how the oils in the drops of #7 have migrated outward via capillary action.

Feeder Oils penetrate or feed the paint
This same effect can take place in a single stage paint but not only will the oils travel horizontally, they will also travel vertically, that they will penetrate downward "into" your car's paint and this is where the term feeder oils comes from as the oils penetrate into or feed the paint. The result is they will condition the paint restoring some level of workability as compared to just working on old dry paint, and they will also bring out the full richness of color, something that will showcase the beauty of your car's paint.



37 Year Old Paint Soaking in Seven...

The worse condition the paint, the more times you repeat the #7 conditioning step
For this project I applied, worked and removed the #7 four times to the hood and tops of the fenders. After the initial saturation application I applied and worked in the #7 three more times the next day.

I put as much energy into the last application as I did the first application and in order to do this right it takes the desire for excellent results as well as the human elements of care and passion to rub out a hood 6' long and almost 5' in width 4 times like your life depended upon it but the results will be worth it.



After approximately 12 hours of soaking in #7 Show Car Glaze, we're ready to wipe off the first application off this 37-year old paint.

This article shows the dramatic before and after difference with a pigmented single stage paint after compounding and polishing and then waxing...

1960 Ford Ranchero - Extreme Makeover - M105/M205 Tag Team

Before

After

 

[Tundra]

Did/does toyota (or anybody else for that matter) use single stage on any current models? This is news to me.

Rumor has it all Toyota paints are single stage with the exception of the metallic or pearl finishes.

 

[Tundra]

My dad has a white 2008 tundra and it also has the "white ovals" like your talking about (it has never been repainted). I believe he has two on the hood and some others on the bed panels. I did a light paint correction on it, and did not get them out. Were you able to get yours out? I'm going to try a more aggressive approach with M105 and a orange or yellow pad in the near future and see if that gets it out.

I reread this post. The 'ovals' in question are also on my hood and rear quarter panels. I would surmise they are in the exact same spots. Stupid Toyota...