I've danced around the tunes a bit on several cars and here are some thoughts/questions.
- Do you have the manual or the DCT? When I was looking at tuning my GTI one of the considerations was the clutch in the manual. The engine internals would take upwards of 400hp easily on a stage 3 tune, but you had to be careful with even a stage 1 tune due to the clutch not being able to handle the torque. One tuner even made a stage 1 version specifically for manuals. DCT owners had no worries.
- Is the air intake actually better than stock? When shopping intakes for my GTI, BMW, and now BRZ I found the OEM intakes are actually better than any aftermarket options. The OEM versions bring in a larger amount of air more efficiently than most of the aftermarket products. The only gain with the aftermarket was more intake noise, if that's your thing. Some aftermarket options also bring in more hot air from under the hood which is counter productive. In the BRZ/86 world, guys who have turned them into race cars actually still use the OEM intake for this reason.
- If you go stage 2, how will the engine cooling hold up? Will you need a bigger/better intercooler? Will you have to do any exhaust upgrades like headers to allow the engine to exhale more freely?
From other platforms I've owned, stage 1 is usually the safe bet. All you really need is a simple flash to get the extra power. Other mechanical bits really didn't add any additional performance. It was a win/win. More power, low cost, low risk! Good stuff!
Any suspension tunes? I've always worked on making the car corner better with the power it had before working on the power. Any thoughts to a rear sway upgrade to dial out some of the FWD understeer?
Lots of great questions here, let me address them:
1. I've got the DCT, it's a wet clutch and 8 spd, an upgrade from the dry clutch, 7 spd unit from my old ES. This transmission is very responsive, not a PDK but then again, what is

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2. The stock intake is very good actually, large diameter pipe between the air box and TIP and the actual airbox is large but has a normal, drop in panel filter. The N Performance intake is an upgraded part across the board. For starters it has a large, cone K&N-type, washable filter. It also has an easy to remove e design, simply twist and it comes out of the side of the box for easy cleaning

The TIP has a larger opening for better breathing, dyno proven hp/tq imorovement

3. The N75 Stage 2 doesn't require a larger FMIC, probably because the EN has a larger FMIC than the Veloster N and also needs a better FMIC due to tye EN having a larger turbo
4. The EN has an adaptive suspension, so it really doesn't need any work there. Yeah I'm sure if it was being tracked alot some springs would help but if you look at the pics of my car it has a great stance! Also the sway bars and bushes are all tuned and keep in mind thr lead engineer for this car was at BMW for over 20 yrs in charge of the M cars, you don't just forget things because you've come to Hyundai, he's put his stamp on the Stinger and N cars already and it shows
When I took the car on the Dragon and surrounding roads last year it proved itself time and time again. The turn in was incredible, I could just turn harder and faster with each curve, car had me yelling it's greatness constantly!
I've got the trio of Powerflex bushes going in the EN to help with wheel hop, all 3 are the street versions because IMO the race ones are probably too aggressive for a daily driver because that's what my EN is...a DD
After some thought and careful reading all of your comments (thank you) plus my own needs, additiinal reading and logic, I'm leaning towards the N75 Stage 1. Ultimately this IS my DD, so a bump of 25 whp and about 35-40 wtq is going to make me happy without a doubt! Sure Stage 2 has a bit more but surely it makes more boost and that does put a little more stress on the engine AND makes more heat AND is a slight gain per N75 themselves. They suggested the Stage 1 per my needs/wants as well. Even if I went Stage 2 there's always another car out there faster, there always is and to be honest, these cars run a consistent 13.0-13.4 @104-108 mph, they're THAT fast stock, or quick for some of you out there. One guy with a stock EN and only 18" tires/wheels ran a 13.1 having issues getting the launch control to work and then, having figured it out, cut a 12.9 quarter mile time...pretty impressive for what's a family hauler that goes around corners and can and does, in my case, gets 37-40 mpg on a run in ECO mode AND handles grocery duties just fine thank you
A comment was made about a hiccup or possibly some bad gas, another thing to consider as well and fwiw we have access to 93 octane everywhere here.
It was only a decade ago where I had my Abarth 500 with numerous upgrades, including a 500Madness piggyback and upgraded FMIC (replacing the pair of side intercooler and all that piping

It also had a hot air intake and numerous chassis braces. Before that we've gotta go waaaay back to the mid to late 90's where I had my 87' Grand National modded, FBO's on a tired 80-100K car that ran 12.6@109 mph w/1.91 60 ft time and had the mods to go high 11's but didn't have the trans/stall converter/new valve springs to get there, just a tired car at that point.
Soooo, please contine to moment and ask questions and feel free to check out N75, I posted a link to it as well as a link to the intake/TIP I already have but NOT installed as of yet.
...but wait, there's more! Although the EN has a true tuned exhaust which is valued btw, companies like Stillen and Borla have cat-back systems for the EN. The Borla system has what is basically a scavenger collector built into it, 3" T304 SS too. The Stillen system is dyno proven to make 14 whp/14 wtq on a stock car, that number would probably drop on a tuned car I'd think. I'm bringing up the exhaust because if I go this route it would add more power to the EN and I'm wondering if at that point I'd need that HPFP to help things along....thoughts
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