Ultimate Liquid Wax + Collinite + Ultimate Quik Wax?

Don M

Don M

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Don't get me wrong, I love my ULW, the ease of use, the look and feel it gives to the paint and the durability, but I'm not thrilled about how fast the beading/sheeting fades away.

I have some Collinite 915 (Insulator Wax) and some 476s (Super Double Coat) in the garage and I was thinking of topping the ULW with one of these. My question is, can I still use Ultimate Quik Wax over the Collinite? Or will I need to use a quik wax that is carnauba based?
scratchhead.gif


My 7 month, lack of care "test" of the Ultimate Wax with almost no fading from my SS paint leads me to believe that something was still there on the paint protecting it, so I'm not questioning the UW durability, just it's beading/sheeting capabilities ... for some reason though, the front and rear bumper covers maintain high beading properties even when the beading on the body panels has faded.

Could it be the carwash soap I'm using (Gold Class) that's leaving something behind and diminishing the beads?

Waxes and sealants and coatings ... Oh My ... I'm so confused


I'm also wondering if I should be using Ultimate Wash as well, seeing how it's part of the "Ultimate System." Too, one of the Mikes, (I think it was Phillips) mentioned that every time you wipe your finish, you can be adversely affecting the wax/sealant coating. So since I used UQD approximately 5 times as a drying agent after a wash in a space of two weeks ... I HATE my car being dirty-pollen, dust, rain markings in the dust/pollen etc ... would that also affect the beading characteristics of the ULW?

Like I said, I don't doubt the protective abilities of the ULW, it's just the lack of beading OR sheeting after a short period that get to me. Maybe I'M the problem by washing too much & that maybe I should let it stay dirty for a few days? But, I don't see THAT happening.
 
I've never used ULW, but I've been washing a car treated with 845 with Gold Class soap and then finishing with UQW for several years now. It works great and looks amazing. Durability is outstanding.
 
From my experience--which is only enthusiast-based--is that Collinite works very well with UQW.

  1. Any time you touch/wipe your paint it has an effect on the LSP. Doesn't mean your wiping will remove it quickly, but it will affect it. I know you hate pollen, but wiping down your car 5 times in 2 weeks = 10+ times/month--and that's not including your washing.
  2. In my experience, LSP's seem to "diminish" on the lower side body panels first.
  3. I've never used Gold Class, so I'm not sure its effect. I thought it didn't leave anything behind though.
  4. If you are using ULW + Colli + UQW there's no need to use Wash & Wax shampoos--just my opinion. I don't like them in general as I find them a bit less effective in the cleaning power department. Plus, some of them might mute the characteristics of your LSP.
 
Don M said:
•Don't get me wrong, I love my ULW, the ease of use, the look and feel it gives to the paint and the durability,
-but I'm not thrilled about how fast the beading/sheeting fades away.

•My 7 month, lack of care "test" of the Ultimate Wax with almost no fading from my SS paint leads me to believe that something was still there on the paint protecting it,
-so I'm not questioning the UW durability, just it's beading/sheeting capabilities ...

•Like I said, I don't doubt the protective abilities of the ULW,
-it's just the lack of beading OR sheeting after a short period that get to me.
Click to expand...
Since you have no doubts regarding ULW being durable
and protective...but not very happy with its overall
beading/sheeting characteristics; then: Instead of applying
any Collinite Waxes over the Meguiar's Sealant...

Why not just apply UQW over the Meguiar's Sealant,
as your LSP-"beading-booster"?
Its reputation for its insane beading goes
undisputed by the "Quick Spray Wax" proponents!


Don M said:
I have some Collinite 915 (Insulator Wax) and some 476s (Super Double Coat)

My question is, can I still use Ultimate Quik Wax over the Colinite? Or will I need to use a quik wax that is carnauba based?
Click to expand...
Yes...
You can use UQW over either of these Collinite products.

But, again, why not just forego the Collinites...
and just use UQW over ULW? [For Beads Sake :)]



Bob
 
ULW does not have durable short term surface tension characteristics. Rinsing with just water immediately after the cure period I could see a noticeable decrease in the hydrophobic behavior after 5 minutes of rinsing. Gold Class shouldn't be leaving anything behind that is going to mask the wax with a different surface tension either. That's my experience with ULW and UPW, both great products in ease of use but if you prefer tighter beading and faster sheeting products then Collinite is definitely a step in the right direction.

I've recently been doing a lot of testing with Collinite 845, and when applied properly this product absolutely has incredible hydrophobic levels which are unchanged after washing and rinsing for an extended period. I just did a 40 consecutive wash and rinse test (a test which Meguiar's and Turtle Wax have been using recently to try and judge durability claims up to one year with 52 consecutive wash and rinses), and again Collinite 845 was unchanged, no surface tension decrease whatsoever from the beginning to the end of the test.

476s will also give you great beading and quick sheeting, but I wasn't able to perform any focused testing when I had it. Eventually I will, as well as with 915 when I have them back in my hands.

The thing that I'm noticing with UQW is this: the base layer makes a difference in the hydrophobic behavior. If you put UQW on bare clearcoat, it will behave differently compared to if you applied it on top of a wax. My initial results tell me that if I have a less hydrophobic base layer product on one side of the hood, and a more hydrophobic base layer product on the other side and then apply UQW across the entire hood, it will not behave the same on both sides. After the cure period it will be less hydrophobic (but improve the hydrophobic behavior) with the less hydrophobic base, compared to the other side where it will remain incredibly hydrophobic. I need to do more testing with this, it could depend on the individual base layer product, but so far that's what I'm seeing. So I would guess that if you put ULW and Collinite on their sides of the hood and then put UQW over top of both of them after they've cured, then the Collinite side will still give you tighter beading and faster sheeting characteristics.
 
Thanks for the info, looks like I have a lot to think over.
 
If you like using spray waxes and love intense water beading, XMT Spray Wax has incredible water beading properties.
 
Calendyr said:
915 is not insulator wax. 845 is.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I figured that out when I pulled out my bottle yesterday to put a coat on the car ... all these numbers and abbreviations are starting to get confusing ... and I've been doing this a while.
 
Yeah, the numbers and acronyms and abbreviations are enough to drive you crazy, aren't they?

I'm just gonna take my PC7424XP with some LC CCS and apply some XMT360, followed by some 845 and XYZPDQ and followed by IPA ASAP (India Pale Ale, not isopropyl alcohol, btw...) See?? Confused already!
 
damaged442 said:
Yeah, the numbers and acronyms and abbreviations are enough to drive you crazy, aren't they?

I'm just gonna take my PC7424XP with some LC CCS and apply some XMT360, followed by some 845 and XYZPDQ and followed by IPA ASAP (India Pale Ale, not isopropyl alcohol, btw...) See?? Confused already!
Click to expand...


:poke::bash: LOL
 
Loach said:
ULW does not have durable short term surface tension characteristics. Rinsing with just water immediately after the cure period I could see a noticeable decrease in the hydrophobic behavior after 5 minutes of rinsing. Gold Class shouldn't be leaving anything behind that is going to mask the wax with a different surface tension either. That's my experience with ULW and UPW, both great products in ease of use but if you prefer tighter beading and faster sheeting products then Collinite is definitely a step in the right direction.

I've recently been doing a lot of testing with Collinite 845, and when applied properly this product absolutely has incredible hydrophobic levels which are unchanged after washing and rinsing for an extended period. I just did a 40 consecutive wash and rinse test (a test which Meguiar's and Turtle Wax have been using recently to try and judge durability claims up to one year with 52 consecutive wash and rinses), and again Collinite 845 was unchanged, no surface tension decrease whatsoever from the beginning to the end of the test.

476s will also give you great beading and quick sheeting, but I wasn't able to perform any focused testing when I had it. Eventually I will, as well as with 915 when I have them back in my hands.

The thing that I'm noticing with UQW is this: the base layer makes a difference in the hydrophobic behavior. If you put UQW on bare clearcoat, it will behave differently compared to if you applied it on top of a wax. My initial results tell me that if I have a less hydrophobic base layer product on one side of the hood, and a more hydrophobic base layer product on the other side and then apply UQW across the entire hood, it will not behave the same on both sides. After the cure period it will be less hydrophobic (but improve the hydrophobic behavior) with the less hydrophobic base, compared to the other side where it will remain incredibly hydrophobic. I need to do more testing with this, it could depend on the individual base layer product, but so far that's what I'm seeing. So I would guess that if you put ULW and Collinite on their sides of the hood and then put UQW over top of both of them after they've cured, then the Collinite side will still give you tighter beading and faster sheeting characteristics.
Click to expand...

Funny you mention this, as I have been curious if I should give Ultimate Liquid Wax a try. I have Meguiars D156 and Collinite 845. I like 845 because its the fastest water sheeting wax I have ever seen on youtube comparisons, nothing is like it at all unless you buy very expensive boutique wax. Also for this reason, I don't use Optimum No Rinse, nor have I ever tried it because I read it kills 845.

Furthermore, I read you can't do a swipe test on Ultimate Liquid Wax. So I'm not sure how I would know when the wax is dry.
 
Kiddetailer said:
Funny you mention this, as I have been curious if I should give Ultimate Liquid Wax a try. I have Meguiars D156 and Collinite 845. I like 845 because its the fastest water sheeting wax I have ever seen on youtube comparisons, nothing is like it at all unless you buy very expensive boutique wax. Also for this reason, I don't use Optimum No Rinse, nor have I ever tried it because I read it kills 845.

Furthermore, I read you can't do a swipe test on Ultimate Liquid Wax. So I'm not sure how I would know when the wax is dry.
Click to expand...

3-5 minutes and it can be removed from the panel it is applied to. ULW is a great product. Works hand in hand with D156.
 
Kiddetailer said:
. Also for this reason, I don't use Optimum No Rinse, nor have I ever tried it because I read it kills 845.
Click to expand...

Link to read? I use both and have seen zero issues. 845 is standing strong.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
 
Kiddetailer said:
Funny you mention this, as I have been curious if I should give Ultimate Liquid Wax a try. I have Meguiars D156 and Collinite 845. I like 845 because its the fastest water sheeting wax I have ever seen on youtube comparisons, nothing is like it at all unless you buy very expensive boutique wax. Also for this reason, I don't use Optimum No Rinse, nor have I ever tried it because I read it kills 845.

Furthermore, I read you can't do a swipe test on Ultimate Liquid Wax. So I'm not sure how I would know when the wax is dry.
Click to expand...

I personally didn't have any issues running ULW and maintaining it with UQW. The problem is like Don M mentions, if you're looking for something that is going to absolutely wow with super tight beads and fast water sheeting during the next wash, there are choices like 845 and Sonax Polymer Net Shield that are going to satisfy that preference much better. Like many of the paint sealants on the market, they don't have that chemistry that is going to produce that certain type of water behavior, what you should notice is a less hydrophobic surface over time that will sheet water off at a lower rate but still at a level to where you can see that the product has survived on the surface over the months. ULW is really easy to apply and remove, like The Guz says after that 3-5 minutes it's ready to go. It's been much more user friendly compared to my bottle of 845. But it will not repel water like 845 does when it bonds properly.
 
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