Using Megs Ultimate Compound

Grizzly said:
Ultimate Compound does not fill so no IPA is needed.
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ASPHALT ROCKET said:
That is untrue.
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How can anyone except the chemist that created the formula know if a product contains ingredients with the sole purpose of filling or the sole purpose of lubricating the surface?

Fillers and lubricating agents will both mask any shallow defects left in the paint but how would an end-user, and not the actual chemist know what's in the formula and what the purpose of the ingredients in the formula are for? I'll be the first to admit I don't know and I don't really care. I keep the focus on the performance of the product, not what's in the bottle.

Just water?
I actually don't know of any abrasive product formulated to work on thin, delicate clear coat finishes made out of just water and scratchy things.

Most quality abrasive products use some kind of lubricating agent to cushion or buffer the abrading action because for most people, the goal of buffing on paint is to make it look good, not merely scour it.

In fact, I would go further to say that without some type of lubricating film, it would be impossible to create a swirl or haze free finish by hand or machine including a rotary buffer. If anyone disagrees... please show us the miracle product without any type of lubricating ingredients on black paint.

Anyone that wants to use water and sand (or some other type of abrasive) to try to buff on a delicate clear coat AND make it look good please tell us of your success.

The entire topic of "fillers" is so misunderstood... sure some products have fillers on purpose but some don't but the lubricating ingredients can and will do the same thing a filler does, but everyone lumps all these ingredients into one group and just calls the fillers.

I'm not a chemist and so I don't ever try to play on on a discussion forum, I don't know if UC has fillers or lubricating ingredients or both? I think only the chemist knows for sure and anyone else is just stating their opinion because how can you test to determine if a product has fillers or lubricating agents and know the exact difference if they can both leave behind a film on the surface? If you can answer this please include lots of details in your method of making this determination not just a fluffy opinion.

And of course the big picture is always left out and that is the goal is to create beauty... if that's not your goal then you probably wouldn't be involved in a detailing discussion forum.


:laughing:
 
I was using a black CCS Lake Country pad, I started using speed 3-4 and eventually advanced to 6. I realized after that I probably did use the wrong pad.
 
I am with you to a point on this Mike, any type polish will fill if the defects are not completely taken out, but as far saying that a product will not fill because it says not use a wipe down after using it is comical at best.
 
ASPHALT ROCKET said:
I am with you to a point on this Mike, any type polish will fill if the defects are not completely taken out,

but as far saying that a product will not fill because it says not use a wipe down after using it is comical at best.
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I agree.

Now find out who said that and ask them to explain what they mean?


Wasn't me...


:laughing:
 
John` said:
I was using a black CCS Lake Country pad, I started using speed 3-4 and eventually advanced to 6.

I realized after that I probably did use the wrong pad.
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Sometimes I miss little details in a person's post because I'm multi-tasking and typing fast... sometimes I key right in on the details and possibly the issue causing the problem.

If you're trying to remove defects like swirls and scratches out of a modern clear coat finish, then you realistically need to be using at a minimum a foam polishing pad and most people will gravitate towards a light foam cutting pad like the Lake Country Light Orange Foam Cutting pads.

If you don't have any of these pads I would recommend the 5.5 flat pad for working with the UC, order 2-3 as it's always nice to be able to switch to a clean, dry pad when buffing out an entire car.

Re-try your test section using the light foam cutting pad, the UC and use the 6.0 speed setting. You can spread the product out on the 3.0 setting because this makes spreading the product out easier, and then once you have a uniform film of UC spread out over the area you're going to work bump the speed setting up to the 6.0 and go to town...

Then after making a "Section Pass", wipe off the residue and inspect the results as compared to your control section.

:)
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
I agree.

Now find out who said that and ask them to explain what they mean?


Wasn't me...


:laughing:
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Mike you have to look no further than this thread to see who posted that. You are correct in that you did not say it nor did I imply you did. Since all polishes have oils to carry the the abrasives they will fill if the defects are taken out correct or can be instilled by user of the da or rotary. Only way of finding out your true finish and make absolute certainty the polish isn't filling is to do some type of chemical wipe down. :dblthumb2:
 
From this article, posted to the first page of this thread...


The Definitive How-To Article for Removing Swirls, Scratches and Water Spots Using a Porter Cable 7424XP, G110v2 or Griot's Garage Polisher


Mike Phillips said:
The definition of a pass
There are two definitions of the word pass as it relates to machine polishing with any type of machine.


Single Pass
A single pass is just that. It's when you move the polisher from one side of the section you're buffing to the other side of the section you're buffing. That's a single pass.


Section Pass
A section pass is when you move the polisher back and forth, or front to back with enough single overlapping passes to cover the entire section one time. That's a section pass.
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And it's covered in this video...​

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q70g83mnTn4]YouTube - How to do a "Section Pass" with a Porter Cable 7424XP[/video]



:buffing:
 
For any lurkers reading this into the future... the below article really does go over using DA Polishers in detail... it's kind of long but if you read through it you'll know everything you need to know to get great results the first time...

The Definitive How-To Article for Removing Swirls, Scratches and Water Spots Using a Porter Cable 7424XP, G110v2 or Griot's Garage Polisher


The above is what is taught in our Detailing 101 class in which Joe the Detailer attended and two days later did this..


Proof You Can Do It! - Joe The Detailer - Black Porsche Turned into Black Pearl!

JoeTheDetailer011.jpg




KISS = Keep it Simple Simon
Perfect doing a section pass and then buffing out an entire car is simply repeating the section pass over and over again until you work all the way around a car.

Be sure to overlap a little into the previous section you just buffed out when starting a new section.


:)
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
I'm not sure what you mean by the word "this", I tend to type in complete sentences and include details about the topic at hand but if by the word this you mean, being able to stop anytime in the buffing cycle then here's an explanation for you Mark.

I've typed out the reason why you can stop polishing when you see the defects are removed multiple times on MOL, not sure about here...

The point is that since the abrasives don't break down like a diminishing abrasive product you don't have to buff till they break down, therefore when you see the defects you're trying to remove are gone you can stop buffing. With a diminishing abrasive product you have to buff till the abrasives have broken down regardless as to whether you've removed the defects or not because to stop buffing before they have complete broken down could possibly leave swirls or hazing in the paint because the abrasives were still cutting at the time you stopped buffing.




And this is why forums are so great, it gives people the opportunity to really dig deep and dissect a topic.... :props:

What I mean is... in general, if you're starting out on a finish that is filled with swirls and scratches, and not white or silver paint, then it's pretty easy to monitor your success while buffing to some level to at least give you an indicator that you're making some headway. Then when you wipe off the residue you can see you're either removing the majority of the defects or your not and this will be apparent without stripping the finish.

Now if at this point your want to chemically strip the paint and inspect you can also do this too.

Is that enough detail?

If you own a white, or silver metallic finish or some other light colored car... then you're going to have to work at it a lot harder to see changes and difference because of the color of car you chose to buy.

As a habit in life, I've never buffed a lot of daily drivers most special interest cars have some color to them so in this aspect I've alway been fortunate because it's easier to see defects on darker colors.

:laughing:
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Gotcha. :dblthumb2:
 
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