What are these Marks

Kristopher1129 said:
From what you're describing they sound like buffer marks. Have you tried a swirl remover?

They just don't look like buffer marks in the picture. This is one of those things that needs trial and error. I'm feeling your pain here buddy, ha.

The only time I've seen marks like that is from a soft cloth car wash bay. It looks just like the holograms the wash leaves on the paint.
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Never been in an automated car wash.
 
I've never used ScratchX. Pad color I'm not sure about. I don't typically use the DA for correction. I'm a Makita man.

The color depends on what brand of pads your using. If you know which pad is your cutting pad, you wanna use that. Then follow up with the finish pad and a swirl remover.

Lay the compound on the pad, make about 2 or 3 slow passes. Do the same with a finish polish. Then you can lay the sealant back on if the marks came out.
 
Kristopher1129 said:
I've never used ScratchX. Pad color I'm not sure about. I don't typically use the DA for correction. I'm a Makita man.

The color depends on what brand of pads your using. If you know which pad is your cutting pad, you wanna use that. Then follow up with the finish pad and a swirl remover.

Lay the compound on the pad, make about 2 or 3 slow passes. Do the same with a finish polish. Then you can lay the sealant back on if the marks came out.
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I have an orange and white Lake Country pads.
 
The light is really bad in my garage right now and I can't really see if it worked that great. I think I still see some holograms but will have to wait until tomorrow for sunlight. I did notice the scratchx and orange pad did put some fresh circular scratches on my paint however.
 
RaznStatic said:
The light is really bad in my garage right now and I can't really see if it worked that great. I think I still see some holograms but will have to wait until tomorrow for sunlight. I did notice the scratchx and orange pad did put some fresh circular scratches on my paint however.
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If it helped, but there's still some there. Just do it over again.
 
Kristopher1129 said:
If it helped, but there's still some there. Just do it over again.
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I'll try again tomorrow and see what the results are, knowing my luck probably the same. Somethings gotta work though. If compounding doesn't fix the problem then I'm just going to seal my truck with klasse sealant and the add some Natty's blue and call it a day. I'll update you tomorrow. Thanks for all the help.
 
Because the problem seems to resemble holograms, I would think that your finishing step is what needs to be tweaked. Your Menzerna Super Finish PO 106 FA should be finishing beautifully, but you could step down to a softer pad than LC White (a polishing pad). Try one more time with a Gray/Blue LC pad (finishing/no-cut pads respectively) and work it until it is all but gone (at least until it flashes clear but stop before the thin film of polish is gone completely).

I've had great success with Pinnacle XMT 360 and Poorboys World Polish with Sealant with a DA, and of course 3M Ultrafine via Rotary when battling a soft paint that wont finish flawlessly. The way I see it, if the polishing you have already done did not remove the defect, it's either a problem "in" the paint (how sure are you, really, that its factory paint?) or it's polish induced marring and just needs to be finessed out.

Just my thoughts... :dblthumb2:

Edit: Oops, you only have LC Orange and White... so much for my softer pad idea for now.
 
I think that A4 1.8tqm has the right idea. How long are you working the polish? Menzerna is DAT technology or diminishing abrasives that need to be worked to break down into smaller abrasive particles to finish.
 
A4 1.8tqm said:
Because the problem seems to resemble holograms, I would think that your finishing step is what needs to be tweaked. Your Menzerna Super Finish PO 106 FA should be finishing beautifully, but you could step down to a softer pad than LC White (a polishing pad). Try one more time with a Gray/Blue LC pad (finishing/no-cut pads respectively) and work it until it is all but gone (at least until it flashes clear but stop before the thin film of polish is gone completely).

I've had great success with Pinnacle XMT 360 and Poorboys World Polish with Sealant with a DA, and of course 3M Ultrafine via Rotary when battling a soft paint that wont finish flawlessly. The way I see it, if the polishing you have already done did not remove the defect, it's either a problem "in" the paint (how sure are you, really, that its factory paint?) or it's polish induced marring and just needs to be finessed out.

Just my thoughts... :dblthumb2:

Edit: Oops, you only have LC Orange and White... so much for my softer pad idea for now.
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Agreed man. I was thinking the same thing. When I read up on the different pads...I thought a softer pad would be a good idea. But, he seems pretty set on using what he's got. Good tip though!
 
I've gone through this thread a couple times and three posts, when taken together, got me to thinking.

The condition "shifts" based on light position much like a hologram; the surface has been well corrected/polished and is smooth (quality products, tools, techniques); the condition has LIKELY been there for a long time .

Also sounds like this truck was purchased used and that could be the key.

IF purchased used, could that panel have been REPAINTED and CC resprayed?

If so, the holograms are probably in the base coat and covered with clear - no way to fix except sand and repaint.

Regards,
GEWB
 
gewb said:
I've gone through this thread a couple times and three posts, when taken together, got me to thinking.

The condition "shifts" based on light position much like a hologram; the surface has been well corrected/polished and is smooth (quality products, tools, techniques); the condition has LIKELY been there for a long time .

Also sounds like this truck was purchased used and that could be the key.

IF purchased used, could that panel have been REPAINTED and CC resprayed?

If so, the holograms are probably in the base coat and covered with clear - no way to fix except sand and repaint.

Regards,
GEWB
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I asked that very same question. Cause that orange peel to me is a dead give away that it's been painted. He insisted it's never been painted. I still feel like it may have been. I think whatever is wrong has been cleared over. That's why it won't come out. It's gotta be!
 
Kristopher1129 said:
I asked that very same question. Cause that orange peel to me is a dead give away that it's been painted. He insisted it's never been painted. I still feel like it may have been. I think whatever is wrong has been cleared over. That's why it won't come out. It's gotta be!
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:iagree: :iagree: :iagree:

Yup.

Where is the OP located? Nothing in the profile... Would be interesting to get a paint thickness reading.

Regards,
GEWB
 
gewb said:
:iagree: :iagree: :iagree:

Yup.

Where is the OP located? Nothing in the profile... Would be interesting to get a paint thickness reading.

Regards,
GEWB
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I'm not sure actually. I usually just always assume nobody is near me cause I'm in New Hampshire, ha.
 
Bunky said:
Your words apply to my truck. I am now sure that my Dakota that I purchased used had been buffed extensively for resale. The clear coat eventually failed. If only i had a paint thickness gauge.

I wonder what a dealer would think if I showed up with a paint thickness gauge prior to buying a used vehicle.
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screw the dealer and thats a good idea :)
 
I have a blue and also red pad I can try out. I'm located in southern California for those wondering. I bought my truck at a Chevy dealership a some years back and the truck was only 4 years old at that time and had a clear tile with no accidents and only had 40,000 miles on it. The paint color is exactly the same as the paint code located on the truck.
 
zliegen said:
I think that A4 1.8tqm has the right idea. How long are you working the polish? Menzerna is DAT technology or diminishing abrasives that need to be worked to break down into smaller abrasive particles to finish.
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I work the polish in slowly until it's clear and all but gone.
 
Ok I did a thorough examination in the sun at a ton of angles and I'm starting to think that maybe the the marks are micro scratches. They look like polish streaks but they have to be scratches since they appear anywhere the sun touches on the door and I also noticed the presence of some spiderweb scratches even though I polished the crap out of the door.
 
Bunky said:
I wonder what a dealer would think if I showed up with a paint thickness gauge prior to buying a used vehicle.
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they better think nothing of it because many dealers use one when they take cars in on trade or when they buy from auctions. they can't hate on your for being informed.

guys, that amount of peel is not out of the ordinary for factory paint. it just depends on the vehicle. to me, it seems that is there is that much peel, and it is factory (which is possible), that means the clear hasn't been compromised, as there are lows of the peel there still, which means an appreciable amount of clear left.

if it were me, i'd hit it with an orange pad and optimum compound real fast just to see if it changes. if it doesn't at all, then it's obviously another issue and could be under the clear...but i doubt it for some reason. i am usually a fan of least aggressive treatment first, but this sounds quite odd and given the amount of peel i'd have no fear jumping into that with compound just to see if it budges.
 
OK I'm done messing with my truck. I just checked the test spot I did last night with the scratchx and the paint looks lighter in that spot. I just just did a quick 3 passes in that spot and look what happened. This sucks. I did just finish up using nano with a blue pad also in that area and maybe it made it more pronounced. Guess the clear coat is thin. I was worried about those dam holograms and this is what I get. Oh well we live and learn.
 
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