What did you do today, in regards to detailing?

Setec Astronomy said:
No, was years ago. I guess this YouTuber-to-product pitchman has been going on since way before Pan, EC, etc.
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I bought some of his stuff back then, towels too, still have the towels. Now surely he sourced the towels and blender for his products but unlike Pan didn't go around saying mines best. Even though he was "NY attitude" I liked his channel. That said he did release a short video years ago supporting Pan

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I mowed the lawn yesterday, and even though it was inside, the Qashqai got a little dusty, it's very dry here at the moment. It only needed a QD though, I'd normally go with Ech2o, Boss Gloss, or even TWHS 3 in 1 Ceramic Detailer, but after using Meguiar's Hyper Dressing a couple of days ago, I realised I still had their Last Touch Spray Detailer on the shelf, I seemed to remember buying them on special well over a year ago. But it worked fine, the dust disappeared, and flashed away very quickly, but did seem to work better with one of my standard, budget MFs, I started with a more plush one, but they didn't work well together. It does have an unusual scent, I was trying to place it when I realised it smells a lot like the old Duragloss Fast Clean and Shine. Super glossy results though.

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Bunky said:
Kranzle 11120t. It is heavy. The kit arrived yesterday so will replace when it gets a little warmer. I also purchased a SHORT hose since it is a pain to deal with the longer ones when using the pressure washer. The pressure washer has a super long hose.
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Kranzle recommend changing the oil at 50-hours, then never again. However, I've been changing it once a year.

When got my first Kranzle 1152 (1122), the local retailers weren't selling the official Kranzle gear oil, so I had to use 15w-40 motor oil, which was too thin for my liking so tracked down the correct stuff and changed it again. Since then, the correct oil is now readily available. Stinky stuff though, smells like diff oil.

This reminds me, I need to change the oil on my KHD-10, its about 18-months old now and well due for it.
 
Made it home from the mountains today and gave the truck a bath. I foamed the whole truck including the frame with Ammo NYC's winter wash and then rinsed it all after I scrubbed the frame.

Question for people that deal with snow a lot, how do you clean and protect the frame from rust after driving on salty roads? I'm sure this will not be the last time it will see snow.

Thanks!!20250104_132155.jpg20250104_132215.jpg20250104_132225.jpg20250104_174534.jpg20250104_174552.jpg

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Truck looks good!

Which state are you in again (edit- I see you’re in NC)? How often does it see salt? I like to rinse as much as possible, but in the winter we get exposed to salt so much here in Michigan that you’d spend all of your time rinsing the frame.

I’ve never used it, but I’ve seen a product called “Salts Gone” that is supposed to do a great job getting rid of it.

You scrubbing and rinsing the undercarriage super well is a great start. Did you clean the cab corners? Once it’s dry, you could hit everything metal (not the brakes) with a metal protector. Fluid Film is a popular choice. Wool Wax usually gets mentioned also. Be aware, these products do stink and they remain wet. They can rinse away in heavy rain and washing.

I highly doubt this recent salt exposure is going to do anything.

I mentioned in another thread, my old Jeep and my FIL’s Jeep had about the same mileage, same exposure as they live down the street from me, and he has a tunnel wash subscription and would go through around 5 days per week(or more). My Jeep, I used some metal protectors but didn’t wash nearly that often as I’d use either a touchless or diy quarter wash when it was above freezing to randomly spray the undercarriage. His was in better shape! The constant undercarriage rinsing at the tunnel wash did more in rust prevention. He would take it through constantly as they have about 5 local locations.


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JDGolden said:
Truck looks good!

Which state are you in again? How often does it see salt? I like to rinse as much as possible, but in the winter we get exposed to salt so much here in Michigan that you’d spend all of your time rinsing the frame.

I’ve never used it, but I’ve seen a product called “Salts Gone” that is supposed to do a great job getting rid of it.

You scrubbing and rinsing the undercarriage super well is a great start. Did you clean the cab corners? Once it’s dry, you could hit everything metal (not the brakes) with a metal protector. Fluid Film is a popular choice. Wool Wax usually gets mentioned also. Be aware, these products do stink and they remain wet. They can rinse away in heavy rain and washing.

I highly doubt this recent salt exposure is going to do anything.

I mentioned in another thread, my old Jeep and my FIL’s Jeep had about the same mileage, same exposure as they live down the street from me, and he has a tunnel wash subscription and would go through around 5 days per week(or more). My Jeep, I used some metal protectors but didn’t wash nearly that often as I’d use either a touchless or diy quarter wash when it was above freezing to randomly spray the undercarriage. His was in better shape! The constant undercarriage rinsing at the tunnel wash did more in rust prevention. He would take it through constantly as they have about 5 local locations.


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Thank you! This helps a lot! I am in North Carolina and rarely see snow where I live, but the kids love snow, so we may be traveling west more often.

I have the undercarriage sprayer for my pressure washer like the one in the picture. It worked great, but the frame still looks a little gray, so I brushed it too lol.

I will look into the metal protectors and keep on rinsing it after every salty visit!

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In Colorado we just wait 24hrs for the sun to come back (not even really joking). It's also extremely dry without humidity here. It always amazes me the difference in a vehicle from the Midwest vs Colorado because you don't see a lot of rust on CO cars.

The bigger issue is the sand/dirt mixture we lay down before potential snow falls. Broken windshields everywhere. Glass coverage for insurance no longer exists in Colorado.

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Managed to get in one last foam cannon wash on the Accord. Reset for the wash, Darkside for tire dressing and a nice layer of Cure to give the coating a boost. We’re supposed to get around 7 inches of snow this coming weekend so a little extra protection from all the road salt that’s going to be everywhere can’t hurt.

I also finished my first coating job using CCI Advanced coating. It’s pretty easy to wipe on but is a little more difficult than your average coating to remove. It’s not difficult or tacky, as some coatings may be but the first wipe off takes a little more effort than something like Mohs. It does have a very long working time though and I do love that. You can damn near coat half of a vehicle and then start your wipe off without any issues. After leveling it doesn’t feel very slick but by the time I was finished with the entire vehicle the paint had gotten noticeably smoother. I wouldn’t characterize the coating as slick but it leaves the surface very smooth. It is a rather pleasant tactile sensation when touching the vehicle. Even the customer remarked at how nice it felt to the touch. I didn’t put it on the wheels, which it can be applied to, but it did a great job of restoring the trim. Before returning it to the customer I applied CCI’s maintenance topper, AMP, which can be a topper or stand alone sealant. It’s probably the easiest sealant I’ve ever applied. Goes on easy and doesn’t streak and adds a nice dose of slickness and gloss. Hats off to the chemist.

I think I’m going to polish off my horizontal surfaces the next nice weekend and apply to to my car so that I can have some real world experience on how the coating performs over the long term.





 
Optimus Grime said:
Managed to get in one last foam cannon wash on the Accord. Reset for the wash, Darkside for tire dressing and a nice layer of Cure to give the coating a boost. We’re supposed to get around 7 inches of snow this coming weekend so a little extra protection from all the road salt that’s going to be everywhere can’t hurt.

I also finished my first coating job using CCI Advanced coating. It’s pretty easy to wipe on but is a little more difficult than your average coating to remove. It’s not difficult or tacky, as some coatings may be but the first wipe off takes a little more effort than something like Mohs. It does have a very long working time though and I do love that. You can damn near coat half of a vehicle and then start your wipe off without any issues. After leveling it doesn’t feel very slick but by the time I was finished with the entire vehicle the paint had gotten noticeably smoother. I wouldn’t characterize the coating as slick but it leaves the surface very smooth. It is a rather pleasant tactile sensation when touching the vehicle. Even the customer remarked at how nice it felt to the touch. I didn’t put it on the wheels, which it can be applied to, but it did a great job of restoring the trim. Before returning it to the customer I applied CCI’s maintenance topper, AMP, which can be a topper or stand alone sealant. It’s probably the easiest sealant I’ve ever applied. Goes on easy and doesn’t streak and adds a nice dose of slickness and gloss. Hats off to the chemist.

I think I’m going to polish off my horizontal surfaces the next nice weekend and apply to to my car so that I can have some real world experience on how the coating performs over the long term.





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That's right, get out infront of it️️

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Great question @spazzz . I have a mentor that has been detailing for about twenty years. He's worked on classic cars in museums, supercars, vehicles that I'm convinced are Decepticons and he's been a part of the team that details the original Air Force One on four separate occasions. I say this to show that he is what I consider to be an elite detailer and when he says something to me, I listen. About a year ago I told him that my premium coating was CSL and EXOv5 which works great but it's two layers and in business time is money. He told me to switch to CCI because it a superior coating and it only takes one layer to get the job done. If he's been using it and if he switched from other more popular brands it has to be good because I know he wouldn't make a move like that with an unproven product. I've also met the chemist behind all of CCI's products. When I got my coating certification he was part of the training team so it's nice to have a product created by someone that has helped me in my business. The chemist is smart as hell and has worked with most of the big companies as a consultant but decided to go his own way with his own products. I'd rather buy from someone I trust and can call personally if I have any questions.

It's not that expensive when you break it down. I get wholesale pricing which is less than what you saw and it only comes in 50mL bottles and I can coat two average sized vehicles with one bottle. And if it saves me time by only having to do a one layer coating as opposed to two, time saved equals money saved.
 
DETAILROOKIE said:
Made it home from the mountains today and gave the truck a bath. I foamed the whole truck including the frame with Ammo NYC's winter wash and then rinsed it all after I scrubbed the frame.

Question for people that deal with snow a lot, how do you clean and protect the frame from rust after driving on salty roads? I'm sure this will not be the last time it will see snow.

Thanks!!View attachment 137575View attachment 137576View attachment 137577View attachment 137578View attachment 137579

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I've seen fluid film recommended to keep the frames from rusting.
 
opie2 said:
That's what I have used for long time. Flat out works
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It's a popular recco on the Jeep and the Bronco fora. Only nit for detail fetishists is that the sticky nature of the film attracts and retains dirt and other stuff. Working as designed but might frustrate some who want pristine undercarriages (though still way better than rust, IMO). Full disclaimer - moved here almost 50 years ago and have *never* used any rust proofing agent and have never had rust; just underbody washes during breaks in the weather and the like. Further full disclaimer - I don't HAVE to drive in the winter (or anytime, really) so am not regularly operating a vehicle in the snow-salt-slush witches brew that attacks vehicles; if I drove a plow or something else that had me in it every day I probably would use Fluid Film or similar but for my needs I get by just fine with the occasional touchless drive-thru.
 
I cleaned the windshield of the Qashqai, inside and out. It all started when I noticed a small piece of black tape on the inside, then I realised the E-Toll Pass had fallen off in the heat, I found it under the passenger seat. It's not required anymore, there's no tolls where we are now. So I removed the black double sided tape, cleaned the spot up, realised I'd made a clean spot, cleaned the rest of inside, then cleaned the outside side, because you know I had to. Used Garage Therapy One Glass on a Stoner's Reach and Clean and a Carpro Glass Mitt.

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Cleaned these chrome wheels & tires.

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Big Dave said:
I cleaned the windshield of the Qashqai, inside and out. It all started when I noticed a small piece of black tape on the inside, then I realised the E-Toll Pass had fallen off in the heat, I found it under the passenger seat. It's not required anymore, there's no tolls where we are now. So I removed the black double sided tape, cleaned the spot up, realised I'd made a clean spot, cleaned the rest of inside, then cleaned the outside side, because you know I had to. Used Garage Therapy One Glass on a Stoner's Reach and Clean and a Carpro Glass Mitt.

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The rest of my car can look like a homeless person lives in it, but my windows must remain clean
I can't stand dirty windows
Nice job 👍
 
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