What is the longest lasting wax?

Pinnacle Synergy is a very very nice wax. Goes on thin, removes easy, great beading and gives a great wetness and pop to paint.
 
Bang for the dollar, Collinite 476 Super Doublecoat Paste is probably a good contender.
 
CC268 said:
I live in Arizona and own a 2014 F-150. It is garaged, but of course I spend 8-10 hours a day at work and there is no covered parking spots. The AZ sun really takes a toll on paint. So far this is what I have tried:
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You don't want anything with Carnauba in it. Carnauba will be gone in a week in June/July/Aug in AZ.

Get a 100% synthetic sealant like Powerlock, M21 etc. I'd put on 2 coats each time, once in early spring (March/Apr) and once in early fall (Oct/Nov).

Probably top off every now and then with a spray wax like UQW (or any spray wax that is not heat sensitive and is versatile in direct sunlight)

That will take care of the paint.

Now if you could only tell me how to keep your car free of a layer of dust in 2 days......... :)

Thats the part I hate. You can do whatever and lay 8 coats of wax and two days later, your car paint will be covered in a fine layer of red dust.
 
Since your question was about wax, I'd have to agree with those who mentioned Collinite. It's been the longest lasting wax in my experience. Sealants and coatings probably last longer, and are competitively priced. You can't go wrong with any of the waxes mentioned. Apples and oranges.
 
ArnoldLayne said:
You don't want anything with Carnauba in it. Carnauba will be gone in a week in June/July/Aug in AZ.
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This is simply not true. There are many carnauba "waxes" that will last as long or LONGER than polymer sealants - regardless of temperature.

Some that fall under this category I use are:

Pinnacle Synergy

Bilt Hamber Finis

Collinite 915

NaviWax Ultimate

In fact, ANY of these 4 carnauba waxes will outlast PowerLock or most sealants. Just because something has carnauba in it - doesn't mean it doesn't last or is temperature sensitive to degradation.

Many "waxes" are blended with polymers, resins, acrylic sealants, ceramic/glass particles today that increase their durability significantly.
 
Collonite 845 or 476 would probably the longest lasting finishing carnauba wax.

845 is much much easier to apply, but 476 seems lightly more durable and sheet off water very well.
 
CC268 said:
I am in Cave Creek - I will be holding this off till when it cools down - almost impossible for me to do this during the summer - the paint alone takes hours to cool down even in the garage lol
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A wash, or rinse down will help knock down paint temps. If the paint is already clean, then just a wipe down with a bucket of cool water, and an MF Towel would help. I do agree that applying any LSP to a paint while it is very hot will usually give less than desired results.

As for the contest of Sealants, vs some Waxes, I'm not so sure a Sealant may necessarily be the clear cut winner. I have many sealants, and waxes, and have the two previously mentioned, Menzerna Powerlock, and Collinite #476. In a head to head contest, I'm not quite so sure Powerlock would come out the winner overall.

In this day and age, it is hard to determine-know what is actually a pure Carnauba, and what is a Hybrid product? Collinite 845 IW is known to be a Hybrid, and I might as well suspect that 476, and possibly even 915 is too. #476 is said to be their longest lasting product.

As for coatings, yes, some can give sticker shock, especially when there are no sales occurring. Wise to score such when there are good sales here. In the long run though, and for how much more durable, resistant to marring, and how long lasting many of the top notch coatings are, you then come to realize that coatings are not actually more expensive for a good number of reasons.

And one important reason is your personal time. Sometimes hard to place a price on that, and to then use lesser off the shelf products that don't last well, and are not protecting.

I myself, living next door in a neighboring state, it is pure torture to be out there in 90-100F and above temps to do anything outside like detailing a vehicle.

Today, I hand washed my Covercraft Weathershield HD Cover in a makeshift 55gal plastic drum with drain spigot, hung it to air dry, gassed up the Tahoe, washed it, (it was really not that dirty) and only did a detailing spray on lower body panels and hood-glass with GTechniq C2V3, and I was spent! Felt like somebody just beat me up, that's no underestimation. Felt pretty dehydrated as well, and drank lots of water, and lemonade since 10am this morning. (My Tahoe was previously coated with Carpro CQuartz UK Coating.

Us southern folk surely know to do all outdoor activities-work early morning, then run for cover! LOL

The advantage of a coating, is that although your vehicle might not look clean, that coating is underneath all the dirts and dusts protecting the paint. In these southwestern states, paint clear coat failure happens within just a few years of vehicle neglect. The Hood usually takes the hardest beating, not only due to the Sun's UV, but as well the engine heat.
 
CC268 said:
I can't retitle the thread but I should have included coatings...it sounds like the McKee's paint coating will be the way to go.

Paint Coating, nano paint sealant, ceramic paint coating, nano paint coating
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I've not tried McKee's Coating, but have tried both DP and Pinnacle Diamond Spray Coatings when they first hit the market, and have to be honest, I was not impressed at all with either of them.

I did my Kia Spectra Daily Driver junkmobile with the DP, and that was after a full polish and wipe down with Eraser, and noted the ease in which wash induced marring-swirling occurred. And I used both on other little projects, such as my Cargo Trailer's Fenders, and neither lasted. Sitting in blazing sun everyday, those fenders again re-oxidized within just a couple-few weeks. I actually found Colly 845 to protect longer.

YMMV, but that was my findings with those two products. The science may be different, but those products, unlike some others, will not turn an applicator hard as a rock like the Carpro Products will, and I'm sure some others, from Optimum, and probably GTechniq, and perhaps Gyeon, etc

As for products like McKee's, or the DP, or Pinnacle, yes, they are relatively easy to apply. As long as you're not trying to apply these sprays in gale force winds. Because 1/2 the product you are applying will be wasted.

Slickness of feel, yes, the DP, and Pinnacle Coatings were some of the most "slickest" products I've ever used bar none. If all the proper prep is done beforehand like claying, and polishing, the final buffing towel will not stay on the vehicle, that slick.

In the McKee's nomenclature of this coating, it goes on to say easy, etc etc, but as all know here due to common sense, and the description of use touches upon such, you cannot throw these coatings upon a paint that might have other waxes or sealants still on them. You have to start with a clean slate, meaning squeaky clean paint, hence the paint prep is mentioned which will remove other products beforehand.

With improper prep, no coating will properly bond and protect as advertised.
 
CC268 said:
I am in Cave Creek - I will be holding this off till when it cools down - almost impossible for me to do this during the summer - the paint alone takes hours to cool down even in the garage lol
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That's strange.. I live in Los Angeles, and it gets pretty hot down here, and even though the temperature on my hood is currently 167 degrees, it usually only takes less than 10min. in the shade to bring it down to a workable temperature similar to what my trunklid currently shows in the shade.

View attachment 51071
 
Here's the temperature on my hood.

View attachment 51072


Btw: Yea I know my hood looks kinda crazy with all those water spots.. Am I worried or in a hurry to clean them off? No.
 
MarkD51 said:
A wash, or rinse down will help knock down paint temps. If the paint is already clean, then just a wipe down with a bucket of cool water, and an MF Towel would help. I do agree that applying any LSP to a paint while it is very hot will usually give less than desired results.

As for the contest of Sealants, vs some Waxes, I'm not so sure a Sealant may necessarily be the clear cut winner. I have many sealants, and waxes, and have the two previously mentioned, Menzerna Powerlock, and Collinite #476. In a head to head contest, I'm not quite so sure Powerlock would come out the winner overall.

In this day and age, it is hard to determine-know what is actually a pure Carnauba, and what is a Hybrid product? Collinite 845 IW is known to be a Hybrid, and I might as well suspect that 476, and possibly even 915 is too. #476 is said to be their longest lasting product.

As for coatings, yes, some can give sticker shock, especially when there are no sales occurring. Wise to score such when there are good sales here. In the long run though, and for how much more durable, resistant to marring, and how long lasting many of the top notch coatings are, you then come to realize that coatings are not actually more expensive for a good number of reasons.

And one important reason is your personal time. Sometimes hard to place a price on that, and to then use lesser off the shelf products that don't last well, and are not protecting.

I myself, living next door in a neighboring state, it is pure torture to be out there in 90-100F and above temps to do anything outside like detailing a vehicle.

Today, I hand washed my Covercraft Weathershield HD Cover in a makeshift 55gal plastic drum with drain spigot, hung it to air dry, gassed up the Tahoe, washed it, (it was really not that dirty) and only did a detailing spray on lower body panels and hood-glass with GTechniq C2V3, and I was spent! Felt like somebody just beat me up, that's no underestimation. Felt pretty dehydrated as well, and drank lots of water, and lemonade since 10am this morning. (My Tahoe was previously coated with Carpro CQuartz UK Coating.

Us southern folk surely know to do all outdoor activities-work early morning, then run for cover! LOL

The advantage of a coating, is that although your vehicle might not look clean, that coating is underneath all the dirts and dusts protecting the paint. In these southwestern states, paint clear coat failure happens within just a few years of vehicle neglect. The Hood usually takes the hardest beating, not only due to the Sun's UV, but as well the engine heat.
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You put it very well - I am going to try the McKee's paint coating...I just can't get out in the summer to detail. I recently put a new coat of wax on my roof and hood and did it in my garage...you can end up in the hospital with heat stroke if your not careful (and I am an in shape 22 year old). The coating looks to be exactly what I am looking for.
 
MarkD51 said:
I've not tried McKee's Coating, but have tried both DP and Pinnacle Diamond Spray Coatings when they first hit the market, and have to be honest, I was not impressed at all with either of them.

I did my Kia Spectra Daily Driver junkmobile with the DP, and that was after a full polish and wipe down with Eraser, and noted the ease in which wash induced marring-swirling occurred. And I used both on other little projects, such as my Cargo Trailer's Fenders, and neither lasted. Sitting in blazing sun everyday, those fenders again re-oxidized within just a couple-few weeks. I actually found Colly 845 to protect longer.

YMMV, but that was my findings with those two products. The science may be different, but those products, unlike some others, will not turn an applicator hard as a rock like the Carpro Products will, and I'm sure some others, from Optimum, and probably GTechniq, and perhaps Gyeon, etc

As for products like McKee's, or the DP, or Pinnacle, yes, they are relatively easy to apply. As long as you're not trying to apply these sprays in gale force winds. Because 1/2 the product you are applying will be wasted.

Slickness of feel, yes, the DP, and Pinnacle Coatings were some of the most "slickest" products I've ever used bar none. If all the proper prep is done beforehand like claying, and polishing, the final buffing towel will not stay on the vehicle, that slick.

In the McKee's nomenclature of this coating, it goes on to say easy, etc etc, but as all know here due to common sense, and the description of use touches upon such, you cannot throw these coatings upon a paint that might have other waxes or sealants still on them. You have to start with a clean slate, meaning squeaky clean paint, hence the paint prep is mentioned which will remove other products beforehand.

With improper prep, no coating will properly bond and protect as advertised.
Click to expand...

Yes I would clean, Iron X, nanoskin mitt, then use the McKees cleaner they recommend followed by the coating. I just don't have the time to repolish and wax my truck every 3 months...
 
Again, anything is better than nothing! That is one huge problem here in NM, people do not properly care for their vehicles. The false assurance that "oh it looks glossy", but 2-3 years later, the paint is toast and at that point, especially on horizontal panels is too far gone to ever be brought back.

Even the cheapo bottle of Red Meguiars Cleaner Wax from wally world is better than nothing, which BTW is a pretty decent paint cleaner, but don't expect months of protection from it unless your vehicle is a sunday driver.

As some have touched upon here many times, "if, you're the type of person who wants to play with your vehicle every weekend or so detailing, try a zillion different products, which there are here, and most are actually great, then DON'T coat your vehicle".

I myself, and this is of course just my opinion, if I had a Ferrari 458 Italia, Dodge Viper, new Corvette, or other collectible, classic, custom, uber expensive ride that I only drive recreationally, in my spare time, a sunday driver if you will, I'd probably NOT consider a coating.

Why? Because I want to caress and feel the lines, and primp and fawn over such a beautiful ride, and spend time with it. Yep, what some might refer to as an OCD obsession (hobby), which I'm sure have caused many divorces! LOL And I've known people like that, my own father at one time was like that.

Thus, with a pristine show ride in the garage, like the Ferrari I mention above, I'd probably look to products like the Wolfgang Line, which all are truly exceptional world class products. I've yet to use a Wolfgang product that I didn't like. I have not used Fuzion, but do know a person who does have a red 458 Italia (Ivan), and he once said to me he was "addicted" to Fuzion. And this is a man who could easily shell out $500 or more for a tub of Zymol, or whatever he wanted, money no object, just like I bought a 1/2 cold McDouble Burger
 
Good thing is..I have already been using Collinite 845 which appears to be one of the top picks...I also have HD Speed which I love as an AIO. Maybe I ought to pick up this McKees Paint Coating and give that a shot.
 
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