Which aggressive choice do you make?

hydrohopper

hydrohopper

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This question is for the pad or chemical that you would use . . .

If you need to make more cut a surface would you go more aggressive compound with same pad or same chemical with more aggressive pad?
 
I would go with, a more aggressive compound and pad first. Before going with more aggressive pad. IMO
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
What are you working on?
What is the goal?

:)
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Well like the other day . . . I was working on a 2006 Ford Expedition black in color. Had mild/moderate scratches and swirl marks. After washing and claying, I used LC orange light cutting pad with Ultimate Compound on a rotary buffer. I then would use M205 on a polishing pad with the G220v2. I then finished with the wax.

I was just wanting a bit more cut and a little faster. So I was wondering if I should go to a more aggressive compound, like M105, and stay with the same pad - or just the same compound with a more aggressive pad.

Any suggestions to my methods? I was wondering if I should go with M105 instead of Ultimate Compound.
 
There are just so many many options to choose from . . .
 
I think Mike mentioned Ultimate Compund is not intended to be used with a rotary buffer, while M105 is. I'd say stay with the same pad and try the 105. Mike, am I right? :)
 
If you've never tried a wool pad, you will fall in love. Very fast correction, no heat buildup if you do it right and will remove scratches very well. You can use wool on a less aggressive compound and still do a great job without removing a lot of clear or building up a lot of heat.
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
I think Mike mentioned Ultimate Compund is not intended to be used with a rotary buffer, while M105 is. I'd say stay with the same pad and try the 105. Mike, am I right? :)
Click to expand...

Thanks! I'll wait for the response for this . . .
 
richy said:
If you've never tried a wool pad, you will fall in love. Very fast correction, no heat buildup if you do it right and will remove scratches very well. You can use wool on a less aggressive compound and still do a great job without removing a lot of clear or building up a lot of heat.
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You know I've considered this so many times. Just with all they hype about burning through the clear coat it has been keeping me away. I have a rotary and DA. I've got a small business going with a local dealership doing a few of their bad cars. The problem is that it's taking me about six hours to complete. As it stands the time vs money isn't worth it. If I could speed up the process that would be great.
 
6 hours is all? You're working pretty quick if you're doing a 3-step process like that. John and I usually take a good 8 hours when doing a 3-step. We don't use rotarys though. He uses a flex and I use the Griot's.

To answer your questions, I'd use the same pad and a harder compound.
 
Well me and another. I just seems that using the rotarty can do so much in just one step.

If you don't mind me asking what is your typical steps you use when you do say a typical dark vehicle . . .
 
hydrohopper said:
Well me and another. I just seems that using the rotarty can do so much in just one step.

If you don't mind me asking what is your typical steps you use when you do say a typical dark vehicle . . .
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The rotary with wool like Richy said would be a great way to remove defects. Not only does the wool cut faster than foam it levels the paint a lot better and that will make the finish that much better.
 
hydrohopper said:
Well me and another. I just seems that using the rotarty can do so much in just one step.

If you don't mind me asking what is your typical steps you use when you do say a typical dark vehicle . . .
Click to expand...


Yeah, we're playing with rotarys on a test vehicle at the moment. Just a donor one of the dealers we do work for decided to let us use to test out our rotarys on.

Our process is something like this:

1. Wash
2. Clay
3. Dry
4. Inspect under lights
5. Establish our process (Pad/product) combo on a test section
6. Correct the paint
7. Refine with a finer polish and pad combo
8. Protect the paint
9. Dress the plastics and rubber
10. Clean the glass
11. Check all crevices for residue and inspect the entire vehicle for ANYTHING we missed.

Something along those lines.
 
Thanks!

I just finished a silver GT500 and I washed and clayed. For the defect removal I used Ultimate Compound (waiting for M105 to come in) on a rotary with a wool pad. The cut was awsome. I then went over with M205 and it was an awsome finish.

Are you guys only using rotary instead of DA? I'm finding that for the rough cut go rotary then finishe with the DA
 
hydrohopper said:
Thanks!

I just finished a silver GT500 and I washed and clayed. For the defect removal I used Ultimate Compound (waiting for M105 to come in) on a rotary with a wool pad. The cut was awsome. I then went over with M205 and it was an awsome finish.

Are you guys only using rotary instead of DA? I'm finding that for the rough cut go rotary then finishe with the DA
Click to expand...

I start and finish with a rotary. You need wool on the GT500 to remove those defects, the paint is very hard.
 
hydrohopper said:
Thanks!

I just finished a silver GT500 and I washed and clayed. For the defect removal I used Ultimate Compound (waiting for M105 to come in) on a rotary with a wool pad. The cut was awsome. I then went over with M205 and it was an awsome finish.

Are you guys only using rotary instead of DA? I'm finding that for the rough cut go rotary then finishe with the DA
Click to expand...

I have used a rotary for years and years. There is no better (faster, more effective) way to remove defects in my opinion. I have a DA as well....it does not get used that often. You can finish down just as well with a rotary if you know what you're doing.
 
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