Why are WOWA Sealants not popular?

I get just over 4 months with Optiseal. Just to pick up on the point made by FUNX725, I find GPS also improves the look of Optiseal.
 
nubaseal said:
So what can you get out of Opti Seal, 2 months?
Is the durability low because it's a WOWA? Opti coat is also WOWA but it is arguably the best protection for car paint today.
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I am not sure, with tropical weather here, most Opti Seal I applied to my household cars lasted average 3 months. :)

I used to top it with the OCW combo, but then I find myself not liking wax still, I am fine with just sealant for their daily drive.
 
my OS is still beeding been 4 months (but does need it applied again).. I'd say pretty awesome sealant as this particular car sits outside all the time, DD, and has not been washed in awhile.
 
For me and my preferred technique the advantage of being able to WOWA is negligible.


Using my PC and a 5 1/2" Red CCS pad, it takes me 15-20 minutes to apply, so during the remaining 25 minutes I focus on some other aspect of the detail process.


The sealant product I prefer is not WOWA.

I prefer Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant which suggests a 45 minute drying time.

- Dry in 15 minutes (swipe test).

- A little goes a long ways
I have done 3 avg. sized vehicles with 2oz.

- 6 months of beading
Which is the only objective measure of longevity available to me.

- Looks great on my black paint

- Wipes off soooo easily. No buffing

- Does not attract dust

- Can be effectively "topped" with every wax and QD product I have tried
 
I have had pretty good results with WGDGLS topped with Fuzion, or for that matter also topped with Black Ice.

they are super easy to apply, so maybe because of that we all question the effectiveness. For many of us I think we are somewhat old school, so perhaps some of these products go against what we are used to, therefore we are less apt to try it?
 
HD.Detailing said:
my OS is still beeding been 4 months (but does need it applied again).. I'd say pretty awesome sealant as this particular car sits outside all the time, DD, and has not been washed in awhile.
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Lowejackson said:
I get just over 4 months with Optiseal. Just to pick up on the point made by FUNX725, I find GPS also improves the look of Optiseal.
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That's fantastic durability, some of the traditional sealants don't last that long.
 
fly07sti said:
One very nice benefit of these WOWA products is that there is no residue/buildup left behind in the panel gaps or emblems.
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That's why its perfect for sealing the inner door & jambs, trunk rain gutters, under the hood. You're not going to make a mess of all the rubber seals and such.

I got about 4 months out of the old version of Opti-Seal. I haven't used the newer version on an entire car yet so not sure how much they improved the durability. But for the places that I use it, it will last twice as long since they are not exposed.
 
nubaseal said:
That's fantastic durability, some of the traditional sealants don't last that long.
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Maybe it helps that my environment is very moderate but on the other hand I do not have a garage and so it is exposed to the elements 24/7.
 
Duragloss is my go to sealer, no it doesn't hold up to the higher priced sealers but I love the shine it gives me and the slickness.
Love it a lot being it's a spray on.

I have my Wolfgang Glossy Paint Sealant that last close to a year, the Duragloss 951 adds protection each time I use it and makes the Wolfgang hold up a little better.
 
I used BF Crystal SEal as my winter protection last year, works great and got both cars through the winter. Easy Peasy Lemon Squisy to put on. Can use inside the door jams, under the hood in trunk lind rails, wheels, windows. Looks good too !
 
They haven't lost popularity with me. Crystal Seal and Ultima Paint Guard Plus are still my preferred products.
 
I don't think a lot of people believe they work as well as they do. I take about 15 minutes to apply UPGP to every exterior surface of my Prius and its good for 6-8 weeks at a cost of under a dollar. I like my waxs' (I have some high end ones) and polishes but, when I want quick and simple you really can't beat a WOWA.
 
FWIW I have (and have used) both the BF and WG versions. I like the look, feel, and simplicity of using them both. As has been said, door, hood and trunk jambs are very easy to cover (and you don't have to worry about getting it on the weather stripping). ;)

OTOH, we took a trip to St. Augustine in May and even though my car had not one, but TWO fresh coats of WG WOWA on it..... when the sprinklers went off during the night Friday it literally DESTROYED any protection that SHOULD have been there. :( Hard, calcium & lime loaded water beaded up that's for sure! But then it left massive water spots, even a white calcified streak down the left rear quarter panel that wouldn't even come off with my (rather hard) fingernails! Heck, that hard water even damaged the clear bra on the hood! (Which I ended up removing once we got back.) :eek:

Once we got home it took a complete 2-stage buffing session (15+ hours) to get it fixed! Which lead to yet the 3rd stage while I was at it... why not, right? :laughing: (Which is EXACTLY why it ended up with a coating on it right afterwards!):rolleyes:

With coatings basically being the same process, (WOWA) I think it's getting to be a hard sell to go with that particular type of sealant, knowing that the WOWO tends to provide a better 'feel', not to mention longevity. Of course as always.... ymmv. :dunno:
 
With the advent of WOWA coatings such as the new DG ceramic coating...which is insanely easy to apply and looks great for two years of protection...its a bar set very high for sealants of the same ilk.
 
I don't think they are not popular I think it's more of a look issue. Some have a plastic type look to them once dry and buffed off. I have noticed that these tend to be water based.
I used some samples of BFWD paint protection a couple of weeks ago. It's solvent based and the final look is far from plastic. I think it's more of finding the right one. I was not impressed at first then when I finished the whole car and went back to where I started the polymers cross linked and then the slick glossy surface was there.
 
inDetail said:
I don't think they are not popular I think it's more of a look issue. Some have a plastic type look to them once dry and buffed off. I have noticed that these tend to be water based.
I used some samples of BFWD paint protection a couple of weeks ago. It's solvent based and the final look is far from plastic. I think it's more of finding the right one. I was not impressed at first then when I finished the whole car and went back to where I started the polymers cross linked and then the slick glossy surface was there.
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I don't think hardly any LSPs are "solvent based" that AG sells due to VOC compliance. They may have some solvents in them - but I do not believe PBMGs BFWD is solvent based.
 
swanicyouth said:
I don't think hardly any LSPs are "solvent based" that AG sells due to VOC compliance. They may have some solvents in them - but I do not believe PBMGs BFWD is solvent based.
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They sell the Collinites and aren't they all solvent based?
 
nubaseal said:
They sell the Collinites and aren't they all solvent based?
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Collinite what? I doubt it. All waxes have some solvents in them (natural or otherwise). Technically, water is a solvent. I wouldn't call something with trace amounts of solvents in them "solvent based". Due to VOC compliance most solvent based LSPs are a thing of the past.
 
swanicyouth said:
Collinite what? I doubt it. All waxes have some solvents in them (natural or otherwise). Technically, water is a solvent. I wouldn't call something with trace amounts of solvents in them "solvent based". Due to VOC compliance most solvent based LSPs are a thing of the past.
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That's not really true--the VOC regs have just forced the use of different solvents (these are usually more expensive or don't have ideal properties for the application). It's true that the regulations seem to have shifted more sealants to water-based formulas (most sealants seem to use "volatile" solvents and "water" solvent in combination, as you noted) but Collinite, being a wax, is IMO still a "solvent-based" LSP.
 
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