Window Hard Stains

spitzshineguy

New member
Joined
Jan 5, 2011
Messages
25
Reaction score
0
Back in 2007 when I bought my car, 1994 Sentra, come to find out it sat under a pine tree unused for like 3 years. The paint is not the issue since I am having the car repainted. The issue I have is what I want to call "acid rain stains" on my windows all around. Almost looks like sap except there is no texture. I have been detailing for 17 years and can't seem to get this stuff off. It's especially noticable now that I have had the windows tinted. Suggesions would be appreciated. THX>

Rob
Spitzshine Mobile Auto Detailing:dblthumb2:
 
Maybe a stupid question but have you tried polishing the glass? Maybe some DP glass restorer. Just a suggestion.
 
Oh and WELCOME! Sorry I just noticed that was your 1st post.
 
I absolutely have tried polishing the glass, I've tried rubbing compound, polishing compund, vinegar, oven cleaner....the only kind of dent I was able to make in these hard water stains was using a SOS pad and it actually put minor scratches in the glass....and I scrubbed hard too...
 
I have been following Autogeek for quite some time so I apologize, I should have done some research before asking such a noob question....
 
I have no clue then. If you already tried polishing the glass and it didn't put a dent in it, then I'm not sure what else you could try.

Maybe some more people will chime in with some other ideas.
 
I absolutely have tried polishing the glass, I've tried rubbing compound, polishing compound, vinegar, oven cleaner....the only kind of dent I was able to make in these hard water stains was using a SOS pad and it actually put minor scratches in the glass....and I scrubbed hard too...

Pics? Mike P. has mentioned that you want to use something "chunky", a polishing compound like m105. I know you said you have tried compound, just throwing it out there. :xyxthumbs:

I have been following Autogeek for quite some time so I apologize, I should have done some research before asking such a noob question....

All good.
 
I will be happy to post some pics this evening, can't right now as I am in my "dungeon" at work.
 
Pics? Mike P. has mentioned that you want to use something "chunky", a polishing compound like m105. I know you said you have tried compound, just throwing it out there. :xyxthumbs:



All good.

M105 is not chunky, the abrasives are "super" microscopic in size, it does work but I dont' think it or other micro abrasive product tend to work as good as diminshing abrasive that are chunky.

I've polished a lot of water spots off glass in my life as well as paint but that's because I lived in Oregon... LOL (lots of rain)

Here's something I posted here...


http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/31954-scratches-glass.html


Couple tips on machine polishing glass,

First it's messy. I've used 3 different brands and homemade slurry and they are all messy, by this I mean when using a rotary buffer you can't help but sling a little spatter, so tape-off and cover up anything you don't what to wipe down or detail splatter off of, or out of, after the job.

The glass buffing pads are thin and hard but work well, my personal opinion is to use a backing plate that offers a foam rubber interface for some cushion and ability to flex, like one of these,

Heavy Duty 5 Inch Rotary Backing Plate

The above fits the 5" Glass Cutting Pads.

You can remove light scuffs and scratches but you can't remove deep scratches or chips because to do so would mean buffing and removing enough glass to level the upper surface with the lowest depths of the defects you're trying to remove.

Also, do keep the buffing moving, don't hold it in one place and you won't have a heat problem.
 
I had luck with Nuvite C grade on some really old hard water spots on a ride once...... it was my last try but it worked. Took a very long time and I did it by hand.... but they came out nicely. It is a very gritty compound used in aviation. Maybe this will work for you as well. Plus, I worked very small areas at a time..... tried large areas cause it was taking forever, but small areas worked best for sure. Hopes this helps man.
 
I had luck with Nuvite C grade on some really old hard water spots on a ride once...... it was my last try but it worked. Took a very long time and I did it by hand.... but they came out nicely. It is a very gritty compound used in aviation. Maybe this will work for you as well. Plus, I worked very small areas at a time..... tried large areas cause it was taking forever, but small areas worked best for sure. Hopes this helps man.
TY for the info
 
M105 is not chunky, the abrasives are "super" microscopic in size, it does work but I don't' think it or other micro abrasive products tend to work as good as diminishing abrasives that are chunky.

Yeah good 'ol SMAT!

Guess I got mixed up, sorry to misquote you. Do you remember what polish/compound it was that you have referred to as "chunky" in the past, relating to glass water spot removal?
 
Yeah good 'ol SMAT!

Guess I got mixed up, sorry to misquote you. Do you remember what polish/compound it was that you have referred to as "chunky" in the past, relating to glass water spot removal?

M04 or M49 both use large size, chunky diminishing abrasives, shake up a bottle of either, pour some out onto your fingers and you can quickly feel the difference between the diminishing abrasive used in these products and any of the SMAT products.

From the OP's description, I don't think these products will help, maybe, you never know what you can do until you try.

:)
 
Just another idea...

I had the windshield replaced in my Jimmy because it was cracked when I bought the truck, the total cost including the tinted option and built in antennae was like $150.00, maybe it was $125.00, don't remember but it was money well spent.

They came to my house and did all the work while I watched. I don't know what a Sentra windshield will cost but seem like it might be something to look into especially if removing the stains starts to drag out for too long...


:)
 
From the OP's description, I don't think these products will help, maybe, you never know what you can do until you try.

:)

Hey Mike..... are you familiar with Nuvite C Grade and if so do you think it would work on this issue?!?!? Seems to be much grittier than any auto compound I have found.
 
I've heard that some glass polish and Steelwool can clean up etched glass pretty well!?

Can anyone confirm that?
 
Hey Mike..... are you familiar with Nuvite C Grade and if so do you think it would work on this issue?!?!? Seems to be much grittier than any auto compound I have found.

Keep in mind there are all different kinds of "abrasives", not all are safe for glass and in fact can scratch glass.

I've posted this before but here goes again... lots of people always talking about and recommending using steel wool for cleaning glass. I've owned a lot of old cars and many of them have had scratched windshields that look like they've been scrubbed with steel wool.

I've never personally recommended to anyone to use steel wool on glass and think there's safer options available.

I've used the Diamondite Glass Resurfacing Creme with a rotary buffer and the glass polishing discs with excellent results. These are products made for this purpose. That's key when working on glass, use products made for glass.

I called Nuvite and they don't recommend Nuvite C Grade for glass, so might want to be careful about using it yourself or recommending it. I have a call into one of their Techs to get the skinning on C-49

:)
 
Back
Top