Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant

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sliique

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It troubles me, living in hot/humid South Carolina, that this product has to "absolutely" be in a dry environment for 12 hours to realize it's full potential. My carport is natural AC, so no dry environment to speak of. NOT being critical here.
 
sliique said:
It troubles me, living in hot/humid South Carolina, that this product has to "absolutely" be in a dry environment for 12 hours to realize it's full potential. My carport is natural AC, so no dry environment to speak of. NOT being critical here.
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Then maybe you should use a carnuba wax.
 
sliique said:
Thanks, however....IF memory serves me correctly, Carnauba is suseptible to moisture and will streak.
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I spritz the panel with water to apply nubas with no streaking problems.
 
Here's what Wolfgang states: After buffing off the sealant, the remaining coating needs to cure for 12 hours in dry conditions to fully bond to the paint.

This means the vehicles surface should not come in contact with moisture; ie water, rain, morning dew etc. Natural heat and humidity will not affect it's curing process and as long as none of the above come in contact with the product for 12 hours you'll be just fine...
 
sealants in general need more curing time, and suggested outside of moisture as possible. Most however "seem" to cure at a faster pace, however your environment could help/hurt it. (ie. South Florida its already 85 degrees so we can "bake" almost immediately)
 
I've been using WGDGPS for two years now on top of KSG and liked it a lot. But last night I used it the same way I always do (over KSG) except this time I had polished the paint with a DA for the first time and taken out all the swirls. When I went out to the garage this morning I couldn't believe my eyes! The DGPS brought out such a deep reflective shine it was as if I had used a whole different product. It really does look DEEP. And it's still last years bottle so I know it hasn't changed.

The wolfgang used to put just a little more shine on top of the KSG, but now it just about doubled it. Strange.

It's funny how it gets glossier as it cures because it sure didn't look like that when I buffed it off last night.
 
Silverstone said:
I've been using WGDGPS for two years now on top of KSG and liked it a lot. But last night I used it the same way I always do (over KSG) except this time I had polished the paint with a DA for the first time and taken out all the swirls. When I went out to the garage this morning I couldn't believe my eyes! The DGPS brought out such a deep reflective shine it was as if I had used a whole different product. It really does look DEEP. And it's still last years bottle so I know it hasn't changed.

The wolfgang used to put just a little more shine on top of the KSG, but now it just about doubled it. Strange.

It's funny how it gets glossier as it cures because it sure didn't look like that when I buffed it off last night.
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Glad it looks so good to you cause in the end that is all that matters.
 
sliique said:
It troubles me, living in hot/humid South Carolina, that this product has to "absolutely" be in a dry environment for 12 hours to realize it's full potential. My carport is natural AC, so no dry environment to speak of. NOT being critical here.
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Back in '04 and '05 I used the Wolfgang's sealant and then after a couple coats would top it with the Souveran, but I also had my truck under a carport. There were plenty of days where it was very hot and humid when I applied it, but I never found that to be an issue.

I also found that the car, which wasn't under the carport would have dew on it in the morning, but the truck did not since it was under the carport. So I think you should be fine.
 
Just want to make sure im understanding this right, but with sealants in general...you put them on and actually give them 12 hours or so before you buff/wipe it off??
 
Wills.WindowsAndWheels said:
Just want to make sure im understanding this right, but with sealants in general...you put them on and actually give them 12 hours or so before you buff/wipe it off??
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No, you buff it off. Then give it 12 hours to sit before doing anythin else or getting it wet.
 
Ok...do you really even need anything else after WG deep gloss? I guess you could top it with a wax? I live in Az so after 12 minutes it would probably be cured. We are anti-moisture out here lol.
 
Wills.WindowsAndWheels said:
Just want to make sure im understanding this right, but with sealants in general...you put them on and actually give them 12 hours or so before you buff/wipe it off??
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Lots of confusion over this for years now... loudog2 is right in his reply below...

loudog2 said:
No, you buff it off. Then give it 12 hours to sit before doing anything else or getting it wet.
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Most chemist formulate their paint sealants to dry to a haze then after drying you wipe off the dried residue.

Now you leave this coating alone, undisturbed for a "Window of Time" for about 12 hours for the polymers and other protection ingredients to fully set-up.

If you continually wipe the surface, (something most people do as they love on their car), each time you wipe this "fresh" coating of protection ingredients you "disrupt" the coating. Keep in mind, microfiber is excellent at "removing" substances off surfaces, (think about that for a moment).

So apply, wipe off, leave alone if possible and let the protection ingredients fully set-up.

Then if you want to apply a second coating do so and use a gentle touch so as not to disrupt the first coating, or apply a different product over the top, (called topping), which is usually putting a Carnauba Wax over a Synthetic Paint Sealant.

Here's a related article...

The Final Wipe – Tips for creating a streak-free, show car finish


:)
 
Wills.WindowsAndWheels said:
I live in Az so after 12 minutes it would probably be cured. We are anti-moisture out here lol.
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That's touches on the topic of why I always use the term,

"Window of time"


The protection ingredients could be fully set-p in 2 minutes or 10 hours, some on the hood might be set-up in 18 minutes and maybe on the lower back fender they are fully set-up in 7 hours?

Who knows?


That's why by stating a "Window of time", you allow enough time as a general rule of thumb or "Best Practice" to insure that anything on the surface that's going to

  • Dry
  • Cure
  • Cross-link
  • Bond
  • Set-up
  • Adhere
  • Fill-in-the-blank...
or whatever term the manufacture uses to describe how their products works, that there is enough time, or a window of time for the magic to happen before you, with your hand start disrupting the protection ingredients by wiping on it with a dry cloth, or wiping on it with a a new moist/wet/liquid application of a new layer of product.


This is deeper than most people want to get including myself as I don't believe we should turn waxing our cars into Rocket Science, but this is the nature of discussion forums.


:)
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
That's touches on the topic of why I always use the term,

"Window of time"


The protection ingredients could be fully set-p in 2 minutes or 10 hours, some on the hood might be set-up in 18 minutes and maybe on the lower back fender they are fully set-up in 7 hours?

Who knows?


That's why by stating a "Window of time", you allow enough time as a general rule of thumb or "Best Practice" to insure that anything on the surface that's going to

  • Dry
  • Cure
  • Cross-link
  • Bond
  • Set-up
  • Adhere
  • Fill-in-the-blank...
or whatever term the manufacture uses to describe how their products works, that there is enough time, or a window of time for the magic to happen before you, with your hand start disrupting the protection ingredients by wiping on it with a dry cloth, or wiping on it with a a new moist/wet/liquid application of a new layer of product.


This is deeper than most people want to get including myself as I don't believe we should turn waxing our cars into Rocket Science, but this is the nature of discussion forums.


:)
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Thanks for the info. Makes sense...but like you said that is leaning a little more towards the rocket science part rather than just enjoying what you're doing..good to know thou i suppose.

I'm kind of a 'by feel' type of person...so i dont see myself setting an alarm clock for 12 hours later so i know exactly when i can get back out and finish up the work on the car....I can understand giving it cure time thou :).

Now if youll excuse me im going to go untangle my brain :xyxthumbs:
 
Wills.WindowsAndWheels said:
Ok...do you really even need anything else after WG deep gloss? I guess you could top it with a wax? I live in Az so after 12 minutes it would probably be cured. We are anti-moisture out here lol.
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I found that not even a second coat of deep gloss makes any difference. If anything I think it took away some gloss from the first one. And I really like this wax. I think it looks enough like a real wax that topping it with wax isn't necessary. I tried a coat of P21s once but it too took something away IMO.

I am using it on a medium grey metallic so it may be different on darker colors.
 
Silverstone said:
I found that not even a second coat of deep gloss makes any difference. If anything I think it took away some gloss from the first one. And I really like this wax. I think it looks enough like a real wax that topping it with wax isn't necessary. I tried a coat of P21s once but it too took something away IMO.

I am using it on a medium grey metallic so it may be different on darker colors.
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Ok cool ill keep that in mind. What about putting something on it BEFORE the WGDGPS...like a Megs #7 glaze, has anyone tried something like that...or is it a case of the same thing...it doesnt really change the look that much
 
Sealants need a clean dry oil free surface. So oil based glazes (like #7, Moose glaze) will hinder the bonding needed. Acrylic based sealants (Danase, Wet Glaze 2.0, ect, ect)
 
Wills.WindowsAndWheels said:
Thanks for the info. Makes sense...but like you said that is leaning a little more towards the rocket science part rather than just enjoying what you're doing..good to know thou i suppose.

I'm kind of a 'by feel' type of person...so i dont see myself setting an alarm clock for 12 hours later so i know exactly when i can get back out and finish up the work on the car....I can understand giving it cure time thou :).

Now if youll excuse me im going to go untangle my brain :xyxthumbs:
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it's actually not to hard. if you spend all day or morning working on the car, by the time your done putting on the sealant, it's late and your tired. you wipe it off and call it a night or day. when you wake up, you put on your lsp and your good to go. don't make to much out of it.:dblthumb2:
 
cooksnj said:
it's actually not to hard. if you spend all day or morning working on the car, by the time your done putting on the sealant, it's late and your tired. you wipe it off and call it a night or day. when you wake up, you put on your lsp and your good to go. don't make to much out of it.:dblthumb2:
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lol...all i meant was i wouldnt sit up and say ok...exactly 12 hours from now i'm going to do my LSP...but i can see saying, ok im going to call it anight and let it cure and then in the morning (when ever that may be, 8 hours...10 hours...14 hours later even) I'm going to put on my LSP. Thats why i said at the end of that quote 'i can understand giving it cure time'...i just meant i wasnt going to have it down to the exact hour of how long:props:
 
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