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Thanks guys....
I was going nuts here with people adding in extra steps that really aren't needed... And touching the paint more than is really needed risking putting scratches back that were just removed.
I don't get it......
Must be my show car background back in the late 70's....
After compounding with a rotary, then polishing with a rotary we had to polish the cars out BY HAND then apply glaze BY HAND before waxing..... Took days sometimes weeks to finish one car......
The guy who I used to work with would likely cut off ones hands if they touched the car more than was really needed....
TO WIT:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mosca
"I've never walked out into a garage only to find out that overnight
the wax or paint sealant I applied slipped off the car's paint and piled-up
on the floor surrounding the car because it didn't bond or stick to the paint".
Bob
I remember reading this quote.
I need to laminate it and hang it on the wall in my garage!
^^^rops:^^^
And, then:I don't do a hand wash. I do a final soak and rinse down with CG wash clear or DG901 in a foam cannon just to get compound, polish, and oils, off the paint and out from around trim, emblems, jambs, etc. There is NO touching! Lol!
And, then:
To remove any surfactants' residues;
and 'drying' (even avoiding "water-spotting") of the vehicle...??
Bob
Anyway, WGDGPS is awesome stuff. :xyxthumbs:
Caught some guys looking at my truck yesterday in the parking lot when I went to the store.
It did have some crazy reflections, especially for white...
It should be called Deep GLOW Paint Sealant.... LOL
Do you top it with anything? Have you ever used the spray also between uses?
Topped with Fuzion on my Jeep that lives in the garage....
On the truck all I use is Megs M135.....
That Fuzion is a bit over my budget, is the DGPS ok to leave as the top coat, or is there something else not as expensive that will give good results, or do I just stick with the DGPS then a detail spray? Would Megs Ultimate spray wax or detailer (really because I have them) work?
Due to your stated budget constraint:That Fuzion is a bit over my budget,
is the DGPS ok to leave as the top coat,
or is there something else not as expensive that will give good results,
or do I just stick with the DGPS then a detail spray?
Would Megs Ultimate spray wax or detailer (really because I have them) work?
And, then:
To remove any surfactants' residues;
and 'drying' (even avoiding "water-spotting") of the vehicle...??
Bob
Due to your stated budget constraint:
-WGDGPS is a proven Top-coat (LSP)! You don't necessarily have to top-coat this Top-coat
-Use of a detail spray; and: (if deemed necessary) a spray-wax follow-up...
Will be quite sufficient in maintaining your vehicle, IMO.
I keep in mind:
The last product (LSP's, detail sprays/spray waxes) that's applied to a vehicle, in essence,
becomes the LSP... until it has had the opportunity to degenerate to the point of total dissipation.
Bob
Are you saying that a powerwash rinse removes all trace residues of surfactants?Thorough powerwash rinse, open end hose flood rinse, and backpack blower dry to make sure ALL water is off the paint and out of the jambs, emblems, crevices, mirrors, etc.![]()
Yep. :xyxthumbs:
And don't sit anything on the car because it will slide right off, WGDGPS is really slick..... :dblthumb2:
Makes me want to try a dukes of hazard hood slide! Will NEVER happen though! Lol
Yes that would be fine.
You could also top it with Megs M26 if you wanted to.![]()
I actually have a 1/4 bottle or more of that on my shelf now.