Yet again... ANOTHER THREAD ABOUT ENGINE DETAILING AAHHH!!

Tundra_10

Tundra_10

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After a quick search of "engine" I realized a lot of people are concerned and have a heightened awareness of the risks and procedures one would take to ensure the safety and satisfied results of having a clean engine bay. Questions of what to protect, what chemicals to use, what cars are notoriously risky and what to avoid are rampant and answered exhaustively in every thread (all 6 pages of threads to be exact). However, just like any other part of having immaculate looking paint or a clean and crisp interior, I would imagine having a beautifully clean engine bay would start with how well it is cleaned, not just with what chemical but how the potential of that chemical is being used.

There is a member on this forum who posted a how-to with detailing an engine of a older civic. He talks about using a toothbrush and some brushes (paint gun brush if I remember correctly), there is also another member showing their use of one of those short-handled green brushes that AG sells, yet another of someone using a daytona brush. However no one really saying yay or nay as to what brush is best.

This is where I come to you all to find out, I know there will more then likely be as many different answers as there are posts on this thread. However, I would like to hear what works best for you. I currently do not have any brushes for under the hood and am interested in investing in some to get my engine bay looking better and having a deeper cleaned look. I have the pair of green brushes that AG sells but there is no way I am going to use them under the hood. The bristles seem too stiff for me wanting to use them under the hood so they are out of the question, even if someone says they are ok, I still will not use them. Those are strictly for my inner fenders and will stay as such. How are the boars hair in comparision? I have read if you soak them in water for about 30 min they get softer? I am really interested in a paintbrush-esk softness yet the fullness or size of a boars hair brush. Does AG carry such? Is the boars hair brush the way to go or is the Daytona line of brushes the way to go? I do not have any experience with either or any other method above and beyond what I have mentioned so far. Please I know this topic of engine cleaning has been beaten to a pulp but it seems no one ever really talks about the tools quiet as much as the product and that is where I am seeking guidance right now.

Thank you all for reading and I hope that some of you will be gracious enough to help me in my quest for increased knowledge and understanding!
 
Some say not to use a pressure washer...but I've never had a problem, and I've done hundreds and hundreds of engines. If it's too cold outside, I'll use a steam cleaner indoors.

For me, there's a couple things to check on to be safe. I always check to make sure the proper covers and casings are around the fuse box, alternator, and wiring. If not, cover them up with plastic bags. You also want to find the engine intake, and be sure not to spray directly into it.

I usually check the spark plug covers to ensure they're pushed down all the way. Obviously getting water under the spark plug cover will cause a misfire. This is also why I leave the vehicle running. If you get the spark plug wet while the vehicle is not running, the vehicle may not start back up. Keeping it running while you clean, and a few minutes after you clean will allow the engine heat to dry up any misdirected water.

I spray degreaser, and agitate as needed. I'm not big on using brushes. I typically let the degreaser do the dirty work. But, I will from time to time use a boars hair brush, Daytona brush, or various other soft bristle brushes to agitate areas of concern.

I always spray straight down on the engine. Spraying straight down allows the covers and casings to do their job. If you go spraying in all different angles...you're likely to push water inside the protective covers. I hit the underhood first, as all that grease and grime will come down. Then hit the engine bay. I make this process quick, and don't linger. I usually spend seconds spraying out an engine...not minutes. Should be a quick process.

I like to hit the bay with compressed air, then close the hood and let the engine run for a bit. Bring it inside, shine and dress. :dblthumb2:
 
I personally use both Daytona brushes, the short and long handle blue brushes at Walmart, and sometimes Slick Stixx for tighter areas. The blue brushes are used on the surfaces, the bottom side of the hood, and along the headlights, the Daytona brushes for in between everything I can wedge it in, and the Slick Stixx where the Daytona can't reach.

My chemicals are simple: 3oz DG 901 to 3gal water, Optimum Power Clean at 3:1, and 303 Aerospace Protectant. I'm still experimenting with dressings but so far my winner is 303 AP.
 
slick stixx? Are those something AG sells?

Thank you both for contributions, I welcome others as well. I think I am set as to what chemicals to use and what I will use to protect. I am more so concerned and questioning what brushes to use.
 
On previous cars I just used to use Pennzoil Steam Premium and call it a day. Just like the instructions say too: Warm up the engine, spray the rather nice smelling stuff on the hot engine, let sit for X number of minutes (5-10?), then blast it all off with a garden hose. Then run motor until it's hot again. I didn't even bother covering anything. As to the hot engine, I'm guessing the stuff in the spray can cools the metal bits enough to avoid thermal shock from the tap water rinse. Plus I never did this with cold winter water. The stuff worked great and left my motors smelling great. The nice smell would waft in through the fresh air vents for weeks and it always put a smile on my face to not only see a clean motor, but to smell it as well.

That said, have I used that stuff on my G37? No! Is my engine bay dirty? Yes! There's the Quick Way and the Careful Way. I know the quick way and haven't been able to bring myself to use do it on my nicer ride. And my reward for prudence combined with laziness = filth. A lot more filth than I would have expected on a two and a half year old car. Ha! Not afraid to keep a beater's motor clean but can't be bothered to give said beater a bath. With my newer car I guess I've fallen into the rut, "If I'm not going to do it right, I'm not going to do it at all."

Well, story aside, my contribution is give the Pennzoil Steam Premium a try. It works great, and smells even better.
 
Corey sent me Slick Stixx but you can Google them. Griot's carries them but stamped with their name instead.
 
^^ Thank you I will check them out!

Anyone else have any input on brushes they use to clean?
 
Being new to detailing, I typically refrain from giving advice, as there are others who are more qualified than I to answer questions. However, I've put a lot of research and effort into finding the right brushes for engine detailing, so I'll share what I've found works for me-

1. Toilet brush- used for large surface areas that are easily accessible, heavily caked in grime, and metal, such as exhaust, intake, block, etc.

2. Walmart blue long handle brush- This is the brush that does 75% of the work. The soft bristles are great for the underhood, and soft enough to run over everything in the engine bay without damaging plastics like wires, fuse box covers, hoses, etc... yet the bristles are still firm enough that they can be used effectively for scrubbing.

3. Kitchen brush designed to clean drinking glasses- This is the secret weapon. I've found some at Dollar General that are super soft and flexible so that I can jam them into every little crevice without worrying about damaging or ripping anything. This is what I use for all those tight little areas with lots of little parts. I just squish the brush in between everything. The only down side is that the brush tears up rather quickly.
 
^^ Thanks for the advice! Those are some good and creative ideas. I like your suggestions. You are the second person to talk about that walmart brush. I am going to look into that as well. I do have one of those brushes for drinks, never thought about that! I think its safe to assume you are using a new toilet brush when cleaning that engine so you do not get s*!@ everywhere? ;)
 
I bought a couple of pairs of the microfiber gloves and use the in conjunction with the daytona brushes. I always wait till the engine cools back down before I apply any kind of bay dressings.
 
Tundra_10 said:
^^ Thanks for the advice! Those are some good and creative ideas. I like your suggestions. You are the second person to talk about that walmart brush. I am going to look into that as well. I do have one of those brushes for drinks, never thought about that! I think its safe to assume you are using a new toilet brush when cleaning that engine so you do not get s*!@ everywhere? ;)
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Why in the world would you waste $$ and buy a second toilet brush?:dunno:

I've got 2 toilet brushes for the engine bay (and wheel wells)- the traditional old school looped brush, and then the kind of toilet brush where the bristles look like a ball sitting on the end of the brush. I've found that the old school brush tends to fit into areas better, but there are so few areas where a toilet brush can fit AND be used to scrub without ripping wires and what not. 90% of the time I'm either using the Walmart brush or the drinking glass brush. I've been thinking about buying one of those Daytona brushes, but the only thing more ridiculous than the price of those brushes is the price of a pad washer. I mean, IT'S A FREAKING BRUSH!!! :rant:

I figure I need 1 brush that I can use for general cleaning, to run over the top of every surface (the Walmart brush) and then I need a second brush that is small and soft that I can use to safely clean in all the little knooks and crannies (the drinking glass cleaning brush).

If you come up with any other ingenious brushes, let me know.
 
If you have an air compressor, even just a half-decent one, consider picking up a siphon-feed engine cleaning gun. Those things are absolute LIFE SAVERS. $6 at Harbor Freight.
 
C. Charles Hahn said:
If you have an air compressor, even just a half-decent one, consider picking up a siphon-feed engine cleaning gun. Those things are absolute LIFE SAVERS. $6 at Harbor Freight.
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I am going to have to look into this as this is probably even cheaper then a couple used toilet brushes! lol

I do have an air compressor and it just sits there waiting for my tires to go low or for me to get my but up and put more trim work up around the house.

Thank you everyone who posted. You all are giving me great ideas and I am going to do some Inspector Gadget shtuff tomorrow and see what's what and figure something out. If its not too chilly outside I might even get some cleaning done under the hood!
 
C. Charles Hahn said:
consider picking up a siphon-feed engine cleaning gun. Those things are absolute LIFE SAVERS.
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Hey, I have one of those!

I haven't used it for years. :doh: I think I used to shoot simple green through it to try to clean grungy parts and underbody grime. For the higher purpose of auto detailing, what works well for you? I've got a gallon of OPC showing up next week...
 
I use an assortment of boars hair lug nut brushes, daytona wheel brushes, and this long handled brush that's similar to a bottle brush I guess. I forget where I got it but it works great for getting into the lower areas of the engine. It's about 3 ft long and the handle is made of spun wire. So it's great for tight engine bays.

After washing I will dress with 303 aerospace (it's what I've been using lately). Take my vacuum, put it on the blower and blow the 303 into the crevices etc. Then wipe up any residue remaining.
 
SeaJay's said:
I use an assortment of boars hair lug nut brushes, daytona wheel brushes, and this long handled brush that's similar to a bottle brush I guess. I forget where I got it but it works great for getting into the lower areas of the engine. It's about 3 ft long and the handle is made of spun wire. So it's great for tight engine bays.
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Thank you SeaJay for your input. So for the big stuff it sounds like you are using the daytona wheel brushes? and for details you are using the "nut brushes"?

That makes sense. I just want to make sure when I buy the stuff to do this that I can dedicate the tools for this job and not realize that they are overkill or will not work for my intended purpose because they are too stiff and are yanking out vacuum lines or not getting into the crevices or just too stiff and not moving around. It seems I am getting a lot of the daytona brushes, dang wish I would have jumped on them when they were all on sale haha!
 
Lots of good tips in here. One thing I didn't see mentioned that I do is, once you've got it clean, spray the dressing on everything in the engine bay, close the hood, and let the engine run for about 4-5 minutes. Open it up, and then the few remaining wet spots wipe right off, and everything is distributed well.
 
Rix6 said:
Hey, I have one of those!

I haven't used it for years. :doh: I think I used to shoot simple green through it to try to clean grungy parts and underbody grime. For the higher purpose of auto detailing, what works well for you? I've got a gallon of OPC showing up next week...
Click to expand...

OPC is exactly what I use; usually I'll dilute it 1:1 (2:1 if the engine is really clean) and shoot that through it. :props:
 
[QUOTE=Tundra_10;595426]Thank you SeaJay for your input. So for the big stuff it sounds like you are using the daytona wheel brushes? and for details you are using the "nut brushes"?

That makes sense. I just want to make sure when I buy the stuff to do this that I can dedicate the tools for this job and not realize that they are overkill or will not work for my intended purpose because they are too stiff and are yanking out vacuum lines or not getting into the crevices or just too stiff and not moving around. It seems I am getting a lot of the daytona brushes, dang wish I would have jumped on them when they were all on sale haha![/QUOTE]

I really want to try the Daytona brushes. I think that they are probably perfect for the job. The only reason I haven't tried them is because I hate to spend that much money for a product only to find out it's not exactly what I want. I hate buying a product without being able to put my hands on it & feel it.

As far as your concerns about ripping wires & vacuum lines, that's why I love the bottle cleaning brushes. They're small and can be crammed into tight places, but because the ones I use are made out of soft foam instead of bristles, they work great. Only downside is that the foam tears up quickly.

If the Daytona brushes work just the same as the bottle brushes I use, then the Daytona brushes would be great (because they would be perfect for the job and more durable than a bottle brush). I'm just scared to make the purchase and then find out it's not exactly what I want. I can never tell till I hold the product in my hand and feel the bristles. I think I'm gonna bite the bullet and get one soon, so here soon I'll either have a review singing the praises of the Daytona brush, or I'll have one for sale, lol.
 
The bristles on the Daytona brushes are soft and have a lot of give. The plastic vacuum lines on my SRT-4 Neon are very weak, when I used the Daytona on my engine and they barely moved I knew I had a winner. I'm not trying to discredit toilet and bottle brushes at all, but look at the length of the Daytona vs them. Plus it's flexible at any point. I showed them to some co-workers and ended up ordering a case, they were all pleased when they used them.
 
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