You'll Never Guess What Products I Used

single stage paint


That's what it looked like and that's what I figured....

Single stage paint is the least picky paint to create a dramatic before and after out of, that's why I said Comet and Nu-Finish. The most basic products can fix old single stage paint.

I've washed many old cars with single stage paint using nothing but water and Comet and this removed the oxidation and got the car clean in one step.

The apply anything and you can get a decent looking shine.

The one thing I know and this isn't for the OP but for anyone reading this into the future, and that is we've had a lot of people come to this forum after using the TW rubbing and polishing compounds on CLEARCOAT paints asking us how to remove the scratches and scouring caused by these products.




----> Single stage paints are a LOT more forgiving. <-----





I touch on this topic in this article,

How to choose a one-step cleaner/wax


Here's the first paragraph....


Mike Phillips said:
In the old days, before clearcoat paints were the norm and all new cars and repaints were done using single stage lacquer or enamel, there were some very aggressive one-step cleaner/waxes on the market.

In fact, I remember seeing products called compound waxes. These products were basically aggressive compounds with wax in them. In one step they could restore severely oxidized single stage paint job and leave behind a water beading shiny finish.

Those days and those products are gone since the introduction of modern clear coats.


Those types of products would be too aggressive to use on a clearcoat finishes as they would leave the paint looking scratched and scoured. That’s not going to win you any customers or friends.

Because modern clearcoat paints are scratch-sensitive, meaning they scratch easily, and because the scratches are highly visible to the naked eye, manufacturers have toned down the aggressiveness of their one-step cleaner/waxes.


Like I said above, the days of aggressive cleaner/waxes are gone because clearcoats scratch to easily.

But in the same way you could successfully use an AGGRESSIVE cleaner/wax on single stage paints in the old days you can use just damn near anything on single stage paint and get a good shine if it was chalky and white.

This would include TW compound and polish and even dirt.

Yep... I said dirt. I called on a detail shop once where the employees drove a customer's car into the detail bay and it has weeks if not months of dirty brown road film all over the bottom half of the car. This was in rain country, Seattle, Washington.

I was talking to the owner of the shop while watching the guys start working on the car. I thought they were going to wash it first but instead they grabbed some rotary buffers and just started buffing the dirty paint.

I was aghast!

I pointed to the car and pointed out to the owner that they didn't wash the car first and were buffing the dirt into the paint.

The owner, without missing a beat said,


"Yes. We use the dirt as our abrasive".


:dunno:


:)
 
Mike - I made the mistake of using rubbing compound on my car about 12 years ago. I had minor swirl marks, and ruined my trunk lid using TW Rubbing Compound. I learned my lesson real fast. I wish this forum was around back then...
 
Mike - I made the mistake of using rubbing compound on my car about 12 years ago. I had minor swirl marks, and ruined my trunk lid using TW Rubbing Compound.

I learned my lesson real fast.

I wish this forum was around back then...


Thanks for sharing... sorry to hear of the mishap....

Anyone that reads enough of my posts will often times see me use the term,

abrasive technology


There's good abrasive technology and not so good abrasive technology, some companies have it and some don't.

When it comes to working on something that's important to you don't skimp on your compounds and polishes. Factory clearcoats are thin and scratch easily.

Do it right the first time.


:)
 
Can't believe this still has life. :buffing:


You just never know what topics will catch on...

We have collectively HOURS of work into the below project. We used mulltiple tools, products, pads and techniques. The difference in before and after is nothing short of amazing yet hardly a peep when it comes to discussion or comments....


Pictures: 1960 Glastron - Wetsand, Cut & Buff at Marine31Online.com



Not there is zero gloss or shine in the gel-coat finish...

1960_Glastron_Wet_Sand_031.jpg


Frame-up shot
I'm take a far show of the corner so you can see what I'm photgraphing...

1960_Glastron_Wet_Sand_038.jpg



Close-up of the above shot...

1960_Glastron_Wet_Sand_039.jpg



Extreme close-up of the above shot --> Notice the rough texture? This will all have to be sanded FLAT.

1960_Glastron_Wet_Sand_040.jpg


1960_Glastron_Wet_Sand_045.jpg


1960_Glastron_Wet_Sand_047.jpg





This too will have to be sanded till the surface is flat....

1960_Glastron_Wet_Sand_048.jpg





Here's the finished results....
I took these shots the next morning, both the top cap and the hull had been sanded, compounded, polished and waxed....


800_How_To_Wet_Sand_Cut_and_Buff_Fresh_Gel-Coat_046.jpg


800_How_To_Wet_Sand_Cut_and_Buff_Fresh_Gel-Coat_049.jpg


800_How_To_Wet_Sand_Cut_and_Buff_Fresh_Gel-Coat_051.jpg


800_How_To_Wet_Sand_Cut_and_Buff_Fresh_Gel-Coat_052.jpg




There's some real craftsmanship behind the above results and we're not done yet as this boat will be re-assembled and then brought back for the finishing touches.


:dunno:
 
Mike, I think part of the reason for the lack of comments and discussion of the boat parts is a lack of understanding of what the parts are. Seeing them all separate is confusing, and that's probably one cause of the seemingly low "interest"
 
Pretty amazing results on the boat. I've never sanded and polished something that rough to completely smooth.
 
Used a cotton t shirt , TW Polishing/Compound w/swirl scratch remover, and TW Hard Shell liquid wax

The white cake in the green tub? Yeah, that stuff is a pain to remove.

Back in the late 90's my white GMC Safari had some brake dust on the back doors. A friend recommended "rubbing compound". So I bought the red and white TW tubs of compound. First of all, it didn't work, secondly, it severely marred the paint.

Eventually I wandered into a painter's supply shop, and got directed to Meguiar's M34, and Detailing Clay.

I ended up throwing those tubs away. The guys at the shop got me set up with M02, M09, M07, M26, and an array of pads (megs wool, burgundy foam, and two yellow foam pads) to use with a rotary polisher I bought at Walmart.

In more recent times, TW has introduced their Premium Grade line. When I got back into detailing (07-08) I wearily picked them up, and they weren't too bad. Nothing like the stuff in the tubs. I even used the Premium Grade Rubbing Compound to polish out 2000 grit sanding marks - by hand.

I don't forsee a situation where I would ever employ the use of the tubs ever again. I cringe when I see people use that stuff on videos posted to youtube.
 
Mike, I think part of the reason for the lack of comments and discussion of the boat parts is a lack of understanding of what the parts are.

Seeing them all separate is confusing, and that's probably one cause of the seemingly low "interest"

I agree. It's truly the way to do a classic boat restoration the correct way though. I'm actually amazed and impressed that Glastron built the boat in a way that it could be taken apart.

I'm not sure what the schedule is for re-assembling the boat, that is securing the top cap back to the hull then re-installing all the running gear, seats, windshield, boat motor etc, but after it's completed we'll have John and his boat back for the finishing touches and when people see the boat put back together again then it will make more sense.



Pretty amazing results on the boat. I've never sanded and polished something that rough to completely smooth.

Here's the steps we used to sand...

#500 grit
#600 grit
#800 grit
#1000 grit
#3000 grit

Then compound, polish and wax.

I've never taken on such a complicated project. I'm glad the boat was only 15' long. Would been a bigger job if it had been a 20 footer....

Oh yeah... back to using TW products on an old neglected single stage paint job.


:D
 
Alright!!
Game over...It's party time.

OK...
I'll have another beer; and, since I haven't
bad-mouthed your choice in products:
Please don't critique my dancing. Thanks. :)



Bob

I'm vomiting on YOUR keyboard next time.:nomore:
 
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