The next level for my white car...

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Socalsteve

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To expound on the " is it ok to have spider webbing on my white car" thread and take to the next level...

I were to go all OCD on my ride, would this be the steps to take:

1. Chemical Guys Citrus wash ( to remove previous sealant and wax ).

It's already been clayed

2. Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover with Lake Country Orange Pad ( Porter Cable orbital )

3. Menzerna Final Finish with Lake Country White pad

4. Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant with Lake Country Red pad

5. P21S Carnauba wax by hand

6. Sit back and enjoy my 911 that is swirl free and protected

Will this work?

Thanks!

Steve
 
Your plan of attack sounds good but make sure you do a test spot starting with the least aggressive method and working your up, and even though you clayed the car I would do it again just to be extra sure
 
^^ I agree with claying again. You want to ensure that your paint is as clean and free of contaminants as possible before you begin machine work. I would also recommend Iron X as well.
 
SickTRed08FSI said:
^^ I agree with claying again. You want to ensure that your paint is as clean and free of contaminants as possible before you begin machine work. I would also recommend Iron X as well.
Click to expand...

:iagree: Iron X is a must for all white cars.
 
You might even have to step it up. Since your going the Wolfgang route, maybe Uber Compound might be necessary if you want to get even finer results.Hopefully the total swirl remover can get the job done but if not then in the Wolfgang line, Uber compound works great...

in my experience removing the swirls isn't such a tedious task as maintaining the results.

Just a thought or two, either way good luck
 
Yep, basics to me sound all good.

But as the wise here have already mentioned, try the test spot, and try to get away with the least aggressive method, and products necessary.

I'd even go as far to try WG TSR with a white Lake Country Pad first.

If a no go, then step to the orange pad, and check again.

There's a 1000 different answers, but most might say if you're going to start with WG TSR, to finish with WG Finishing Glaze, to perhaps stay within a "Polishing-refinement system" Of the various brands.

Can't argue with the Carpro Iron-X recommendation, I'll never be without it in the future.
 
the only reason we suggest claying again is wax will bond much better and last longer, and the da will not induce new defects
 
You should Opti-coat it if your that OCD like me I have a white too.
 
Here is my 2c....

On white car I have noticed that getting the paint clean, and by this I mean washing and properly decontaminating, makes almost as much, if not as much or more, than simply polishing the paint (level of swirls dependent).

If it were me..... I would

Wash
Tar removal with dedicated tar remover
Iron removal with dedicated iron remover
Clay off remaining contaminants

These initial 4 steps must be done without shortcuts.... remember, prep is key.

Then I would conduct multiple tests spots, starting with your least aggressive combo and increasing the aggressiveness until you are removing sufficient paint to leave it looking as defect free as you want it to.

This will vary paint to paint, and owner to owner - there is an inverse relationship with defect removal and remaining paint thickness..... the more defect your remove (well, actually the more deep you need to go to remove them), obviously the less paint you leave for protection and future polishing.

Then seal it with your choice of LSP based on things like:

Cost
Durability
Looks
etc
 
Wash
Dry
IronX
Rinse
Clay
Quick Wash
WG TSR or Uber Compound
WG Finishing Glaze
Quick wash
LSP
 
lawrenceSA said:
Here is my 2c....

On white car I have noticed that getting the paint clean, and by this I mean washing and properly decontaminating, makes almost as much, if not as much or more, than simply polishing the paint (level of swirls dependent).

If it were me..... I would

Wash
Tar removal with dedicated tar remover
Iron removal with dedicated iron remover
Clay off remaining contaminants

These initial 4 steps must be done without shortcuts.... remember, prep is key.

Then I would conduct multiple tests spots, starting with your least aggressive combo and increasing the aggressiveness until you are removing sufficient paint to leave it looking as defect free as you want it to.

This will vary paint to paint, and owner to owner - there is an inverse relationship with defect removal and remaining paint thickness..... the more defect your remove (well, actually the more deep you need to go to remove them), obviously the less paint you leave for protection and future polishing.

Then seal it with your choice of LSP based on things like:

Cost
Durability
Looks
etc
Click to expand...

:iagree:
 
I think you will need a more aggressive product such as menz fg400. I've had really good success on your paint with the 400 and a orange pad for the conditions you described.
 
STPETEDALE said:
I think you will need a more aggressive product such as menz fg400. I've had really good success on your paint with the 400 and a orange pad for the conditions you described.
Click to expand...

Sent you a PM...thanks!!!
 
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