Two bucket vs Garry Dean wash

[Rsurfer]

I do not use buckets on my car. Foam cannon with Bilt Hamber Autofoam, then power rinse. I use white towels with a waterless wash as a drying aid and my towels stay completely clean.

You must have a coating on your paint to do a touchless wash and then wipe down with white towels.Feed back please

 

[allenk4]

Yeah, and you've never had 6 months of no LSP refresh and salt and ice melter and road film on your car, either. This was the first winter since I became an "Autogeek" (10 years) that I have been unable to wash my cars during the winter...that's how bad it was. I was able to do a pressure wash to get the salt off one semi-warm day in November, I think.

I'm not sure if you CA guys appreciate what we go through in other parts of the country in regard to temperatures and the crap they put on the roads in the winter. It's not just salt anymore (which is not clean like table salt, it's rock salt with dirt and sand in it), they now use liquid ice melters and liquid pretreatments. Mix all that with the dirt and oil and antifreeze and exhaust soot and brake dust and tire dust that's on the road already, and you're in for a good time.

So you do a completely "touchless" wash? No wash mitt, sponge, etc?

I didn't think we were arguing who had the dirtiest car?

I mistakenly thought we were discussing whether GDM or 2BM induced the least marring

Your vivid description of Pittsburg Winters and the ice melting concoctions that are used allows me to understand perfectly...that I would never do a GDM on a car that had been exposed to those conditions

 

[Setec Astronomy]

I didn't think we were arguing who had the dirtiest car?

I mistakenly thought we were discussing whether GDM or 2BM induced the least marring

What we were discussing is whether the dirt comes off during the washing or drying process. My drying towels stay perfectly clean when I do a rinseless wash, AS LONG AS I DO A THOROUGH WASH AND DON'T MISS ANY SPOTS, same as with a conventional wash.

We are waiting to hear back from Mark if he in fact does a completely touchless wash prior to drying. If you LA guys can do that, god bless you, you are better men than I am (and it doesn't hurt that it never goes below freezing and you can wash and wax 365 days a year as long as you can catch some shade during the summer).

 

[chet31]

You should probably let him make his opinion known.

I don't recall him stating "his car looks cleaner after doing rinseless
"

Right, he didn't say those exact words, he said "it comes out better" - which makes absolutely no difference to the point I was making.

 

[swanicyouth]

Right, he didn't say those exact words, he said "it comes out better" - which makes absolutely no difference to the point I was making.

I think it "comes out better" because I'm using "wax" as an LSP and I am using rinseless/waterless products to wash that contain some wax (Pinnacle) and some polymers. Therefore, I believe the surface may have slightly more protection and more slickness to it than before I started.

I'm sorry - I don't buy into the notion that rinseless washes are harsh on LSPs or bad for beading - at least not the rinseless washes I use.

It's my opinion that convention surfactant based soap strips more of the oils/wax out of "wax" on a surface compared to rinseless - and is harsher on the LSP in general. I've never noticed a difference between a conventional soap and a conventional soap with "gloss enhancers" or "wash n wax" either...

Of course, many use a spray wax after washing via 2BM to make up for this. But, if your using something like Pinnacle Waterless & Rinseless, ONRWW, or Duragloss Rinseless w/ Aquawax - this step isn't necessary IMHO. Hence, to me always making rinseless washing "faster".

 

[allenk4]

I think it "comes out better" because I'm using "wax" as an LSP and I am using rinseless/waterless products to wash that contain some wax (Pinnacle) and some polymers. Therefore, I believe the surface may have slightly more protection and more slickness to it than before I started.

I'm sorry - I don't buy into the notion that rinseless washes are harsh on LSPs or bad for beading - at least not the rinseless washes I use.

It's my opinion that convention surfactant based soap strips more of the oils/wax out of "wax" on a surface compared to rinseless - and is harsher on the LSP in general. I've never noticed a difference between a conventional soap and a conventional soap with "gloss enhancers" or "wash n wax" either...

Of course, many use a spray wax after washing via 2BM to make up for this. But, if your using something like Pinnacle Waterless & Rinseless, ONRWW, or Duragloss Rinseless w/ Aquawax - this step isn't necessary IMHO. Hence, to me always making rinseless washing "faster".

If I am understanding you correctly, you use rinseless because is is faster and removes less wax than a 2BM

I agree with both of those points




For me, those two variables are not at the top of my list of expectations. I favor the decreased possibility of marring and more complete cleaning ability of a 2BM

I will continue to use both techniques as the level if contamination of the vehicle dictates