Has Modern Compounds and Finishing Polishes Made Medium Cut Polishes Obsolet?

Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
I don't remember the thread you describe?






Yep... we used the M86 the wrong way... :D


I found this thread where I discussed foam versus fiber pads to some length and it has pictures of the red Viper we used the M86 on and the very first generation Meguiar's Microfiber Pads. This was way before they were launched as the system you all know today. These pads were actually pads used at the OEM and I think the version Claude Sevigny designed.

See and read post #7

What Happened? Meguiars Microfiber vs Rupes Foam Pads

And there's before pictures of this Viper....


M86 and a vintage microfiber pads

700_RBViperFinished003.jpg




:xyxthumbs:
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There were a couple of guys upset that you didn't post before pics. It was ridiculous. Got the thread shut down, and prevented any meaningful dialog regarding your use of the product in question, M86.

Thanks for posting this "new to me" thread! This one escaped my searches.
 
gibson24 said:
I have never used Menzurna products but all this talk about an "easy," 2 step with the 400 then 4000 on top sounds like the perfect 2~step for most applications. I may be purchasing both after reading this post. I typically use Megs 105 and 205 then a sealant and/or wax depending on what the customer wants. This 2 step using Menzurna has got my attention.
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I'm in the same boat regarding Menzerna. However, I like the idea of a dedicated one step style polish. I'm leaning towards m86 in the megs line, and still looking in the Menzerna line.
 
dlc95 said:
I'm in the same boat regarding Menzerna. However, I like the idea of a dedicated one step style polish. I'm leaning towards m86 in the megs line, and still looking in the Menzerna line.
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In my opinion, on most paint; one-step polishing requires a trade off between defect removal and gloss

I am never happy with it

Have you considered the hybrid approach that Mike Phillips has used on some production detailing?

The hood and possibly trunk get two polishing steps and the rest gets and AIO or something like M205
 
allenk4 said:
In my opinion, on most paint; one-step polishing requires a trade off between defect removal and gloss

I am never happy with it

Have you considered the hybrid approach that Mike Phillips has used on some production detailing?

The hood and possibly trunk get two polishing steps and the rest gets and AIO or something like M205
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I've actually done that before, but thought I was "cheating".

The instance where I'd use the mid cut polish is where I'm not looking for 100% defect removal.
 
dlc95 said:
I've actually done that before, but thought I was "cheating".

The instance where I'd use the mid cut polish is where I'm not looking for 100% defect removal.
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It is only "cheating" if you have not discussed it as an option with the Customer

Detailing is not my main source of income, so I am a lot more flexible on my pricing. It is not on the web for all to see and I quote each job individually

I have a correction lining up for later this month on an older Saab 9-3 convertible. I know the owner paid $8,300 for it three years ago and he is a School Teacher

We discussed what bothered him about the car. He expressed that the stains and scratches on the hood was his main concern. I told him there were basically two options at two different prices. I then described to him want results would be achieved by the $XXX job and by the $XX job

At this a variety of things can happen, but in my sales experience it is one of two:

Customer says, "Let me think about it". This is the death of the sale. Do not let the conversation end with these words

Customer says I want $XXX, but can only afford $XX
And the negotiation begins. This is where the hybrid polish came in for for the Saab owner. For $XX and 1/2, I can accomplish what you want on the hood and male the rest of the car look very good too, but not as perfect as the hood

I spend an extra 45 minutes on the hood, charge $50 more and save the sale at the same time
 
allenk4 said:
It is only "cheating" if you have not discussed it as an option with the Customer

Detailing is not my main source of income, so I am a lot more flexible on my pricing. It is not on the web for all to see and I quote each job individually

I have a correction lining up for later this month on an older Saab 9-3 convertible. I know the owner paid $8,300 for it three years ago and he is a School Teacher

We discussed what bothered him about the car. He expressed that the stains and scratches on the hood was his main concern. I told him there were basically two options at two different prices. I then described to him want results would be achieved by the job and by the job

At this a variety of things can happen, but in my sales experience it is one of two:

Customer says, "Let me think about it". This is the death of the sale. Do not let the conversation end with these words

Customer says I want , but can only afford
And the negotiation begins. This is where the hybrid polish came in for for the Saab owner. For and 1/2, I can accomplish what you want on the hood and male the rest of the car look very good too, but not as perfect as the hood

I spend an extra 45 minutes on the hood, charge $50 more and save the sale at the same time
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It makes sense, and is a great idea.
 
dlc95 said:
There were a couple of guys upset that you didn't post before pics.

It was ridiculous. Got the thread shut down, and prevented any meaningful dialog regarding your use of the product in question, M86.
Click to expand...


I somehow missed this thread? When I did a search and found the info and pictures posted above I still never found the thread? If you or anyone finds it send me the link.

Having a few people upset because I didn't post some before pictures doesn't surprise me. I think even a casual reading of my posts on this forum or any forum shows I document the heck out of my work, more than most and probably too much.

:laughing:




dlc95 said:
Thanks for posting this "new to me" thread! This one escaped my searches.
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No problemo....

M86 is an interesting product. While it was formulated and intended for use with rotary buffers as a one liquid system for production body shops I've had good luck with it when using a DA but my opinion and experience is that it works great on some paint systems and not so great on other paint systems. This is why you always want to do a Test Spot on any vehicle you're getting ready to buff out if you've never worked on it before or if you're going to use something different on it the second time around.


:)
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
I somehow missed this thread? When I did a search and found the info and pictures posted above I still never found the thread? If you or anyone finds it send me the link.

Having a few people upset because I didn't post some before pictures doesn't surprise me. I think even a casual reading of my posts on this forum or any forum shows I document the heck out of my work, more than most and probably too much.

:laughing:







No problemo....

M86 is an interesting product. While it was formulated and intended for use with rotary buffers as a one liquid system for production body shops I've had good luck with it when using a DA but my opinion and experience is that it works great on some paint systems and not so great on other paint systems. This is why you always want to do a Test Spot on any vehicle you're getting ready to buff out if you've never worked on it before or if you're going to use something different on it the second time around.


:)
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Thanks for the tips! Very much appreciated.

Here is the thread. http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...solo-rejex-new-meguiar-s-microfiber-pads.html
 
allenk4 said:
Please expand on this

Were you using the same pad and technique with all three products?

M105 and Ultimate Compound should cut much faster that any AIO
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In all cases I used Griot's Orange Pads. Using a fresh clean one with every 3 rd pass on a panel.
 
Yeah I've used PP Ultra on my dads Merc ML with good results, was a one step for me or so I thought as he loves 845 since he saw the results of it so now I always gotta finish with 845 on his cars lol.
 
Quite the opposite, I think the days of heavier compounds and pads are about over. I rarely use them. I use the 3M Trizact system to remove heavier defects. Once and done, then you have all the time in the world to spend on polishing.
 
TundraPower said:
Quite the opposite, I think the days of heavier compounds and pads are about over. I rarely use them. I use the 3M Trizact system to remove heavier defects. Once and done, then you have all the time in the world to spend on polishing.
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I have been thinking about this more and more and I think you are spot on.

If someone had none of the 'system' what would you need to get started:

What tools are needed to be able to sand a vehicle1?
What tools are nice to have?
How many discs does one typically go through on a vehicle?
 
lawrenceSA said:
I have been thinking about this more and more and I think you are spot on. If someone had none of the 'system' what would you need to get started: What tools are needed to be able to sand a vehicle1? What tools are nice to have? How many discs does one typically go through on a vehicle?
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It is rare to have to wet sand an entire vehicle. If you have never wet sanded I suggest reading Mike's outstanding post. (PM Mike and ask where it is I have lost it.) Start with a Griot's Garage 3" polisher, Trizact 5000 paper, and a foam interface pad. After you get the hang of that I'll help you more.
 
TundraPower said:
It is rare to have to wet sand an entire vehicle. If you have never wet sanded I suggest reading Mike's outstanding post. (PM Mike and ask where it is I have lost it.) Start with a Griot's Garage 3" polisher, Trizact 5000 paper, and a foam interface pad. After you get the hang of that I'll help you more.
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Those disks are expensive!
 
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