2011 BMW 550i Black Sapphire Metallic

Sizzle Chest

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I had a customer schedule a paint correction with me. 2011 BMW 550i. Black Sapphire Metallic Paint. Black interior. It has around 50K miles on it. It’s his daily driver. It does live in a garage when he is home.

This vehicle had some issues! Mainly some severe water spots/etching all over the flat surfaces as well as swirls and scratches.

I wish the ‘before’ pics would show more of how bad it really was. The paint was very dull, hazy and just wasn’t popping.

I have about 17 hours into this ultimate driving machine!

Process:
Foam cannon with Surf City Garage prep/strip wash. I also added about 2 ounces of Adam’s APC to the mix. Wash media: Micro-chenille wash mitt. I then did an iron decontamination with Iron-X soap. I had previously coated the wheels on this vehicle a few weeks ago, so they cleaned up with my wash solution and a few Daytona speed brushes/misc brushes. (After further inspection, I noticed that when the customer had his new tires mounted, the tire shop slopped all sorts of crap all over ‘my’ beautiful coated wheels! I had to pull them off and APC them down to clean them up.)
Clay: Nano speedy prep fine sponge.
Clay lube: DoDo born to be slippery.

Took numerous paint readings to see what I was dealing with. From my initial inspection of the vehicle a few weeks ago, I knew that it had some body work done previously. I wanted to be sure that I knew/remembered where exactly, as well as wanting to see ‘how much’ I had to work with due to me most likely having to get aggressive in order to remove as much of the etching/defects/etc as I could.

Time for a test spot!

The hood, deck lid and roof were the worst areas of this vehicle. I taped off an area on the hood and started out with a Megs foam cutting pad and HD cut. It was taking care of business, however, not as quickly or easily as I wanted. I had to step up in ‘power’. LOL. I like the HD line up due to previous experience with them as well as the low dusting properties, so I wanted to remain using HD cut. I bumped up my pad choice to a TufBuf black wool cutting pad. Now I was in business! This and HD cut KO’d the majority of the defects! They also finished down surprisingly well.
So the flat surfaces were hit with HD cut and the TufBuf black wool pad. For the vertical surfaces I used a Megs burgundy foam cutting pad. Worked like magic!

After compounding I switched to HD Polish and a yellow Megs foam polishing pad. This really amped up the shine/clarity/depth/flake.

From there I used the Pinnacle Black Label Surface Cleansing Polish. I applied this with my Griot’s 6” and a black Megs Foam Finishing pad.

I then proceeded to coat the paintwork and trim with the Pinnacle Black Label Paint Coating V2.
The wheels I pulled off the vehicle and cleaned with some APC. Tires were dressed with CarPro PERL @ 100%. Glass cleaned with Adam’s glass cleaner and coated with Pinnacle Black Diamond Glass Coating. The exhaust was cleaned, polished and protected with Pinnacle exhaust cleaner & brightener. The interior was first vacuumed and then cleaned with DP total interior cleaner and then coated and protected with Ultima Interior Guard Plus. The engine compartment was cleaned with some Adam’s APC and then coated and protected with Sonus Trim & MotorKote.

List of equipment/products:
Machines: Flex 3401, Rupes 75, and M7 1” pneumatic rotory.
Pads: Megs burgundy cutting pad. Megs yellow polishing pad. Megs black foam finishing pad. Rupes blue cutting pad. Orange hydrotech pad. Black wool buff-n-shine. Misc 1-2” pads. TufBuf black wool pad.
Compound/cutting: HD Cut.
Polish/finishing: HD polish.
Exhaust tips: Pinnacle exhaust cleaner & brightener.
Glass: Adam’s glass cleaner.
Microfibers: numerous and a variety!
Interior: DP total interior cleaner. All surfaces were treated with Ultima Interior Guard Plus.
Vacuum: Metro vac-n-blow.
LSP: Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Paint Coating. V2.
Glass: Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Glass Coating.
Wheels: Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Wheel coating.
Tires were dressed with CarPro PERL.
Engine compartment/covers: Sonus Trim and Motorkote.


I hope I didn’t miss anything and that you enjoyed my write-up!

Thanks for looking!

Pics:
Some defects that I encountered.














Taking some readings:






Test spot and 50/50's










This picture shows the hood 50/50-notice the overhead lights and how they are so muddled and cloudy on the side that has not been compounded yet.




Getting all taped up!




Deck lid before


Deck lid 50/50's





Hood after correction


Interior work




50/50 of drivers side door after Ultima application


50/50 of rear seat after Ultima application








'My' nice freshly coated wheels after the tire shop got done with installing a new set of hoops!



Hood after polishing:



DONE!
















Reflection shots!


Flake is popping!


What camera lens and I using?








Engine shots







Thanks a million for wading through this long and chock full of pictures post!
 
Holy wow Scott! That paint is popping and sizzling now!
That is a lot of hard work in this miserable heat and humidity, but the end result proves to be worth the effort.

One more awesome job and satisfied Auto Dermatology customer :xyxthumbs:
 
Beautiful job. Thanks for the detailed write up.
 
Thanks all! The comments are much appreciated!!!

You know it Buddy...I was melting for 2.5 days!!!
 
Looks fantastic! Love the 50/50 shots both outside and inside. Glad someone else is loving the TB black wool pads too!! I also see you're a Nikon man like me. Right on. Again, great work on the 5 series!!
 
Looks great! I have a question, do you polish up the interior trim pieces? They scratch up pretty easily and when the sun hits them it looks terrible :(
 
Nice job, looks great!

Who's Porsche is that?

That would be mine!



Looks fantastic! Love the 50/50 shots both outside and inside. Glad someone else is loving the TB black wool pads too!! I also see you're a Nikon man like me. Right on. Again, great work on the 5 series!!

Richy: I got them after reading some great reviews/seeing the work you do with them. They are excellent!


Looks great! I have a question, do you polish up the interior trim pieces? They scratch up pretty easily and when the sun hits them it looks terrible :(

Yes, I do. These were in very good shape so I did not need to. I will usually do them by hand or with my small rotary.



And...Thanks to everyone who posted and commented! I really do appreciated it!
 
Hard work but very rewarding results, I think you think it was worth it. Customer must be in 7 heaven. :dblthumb2:
Also I see paint thickness ranges from 112 microns to 168 microns which is regarded very good paint condition.
Once I detailed my friends (owner of Brabus Israel) BMW M5 2007 there reading was on the hood 40 microns!
Compared to his, this Bimmer is new :laughing:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/87569-bmw-m5-nano-detailing-sharkpolitur.html

I don't use any paint thickness instruments (that was his) as I see & feel the paint only by looking at it, touching it.
He asked me then to machine polish the hood, I said the paint there is dead so no way, he took this magic measurement instrument and said Oh S...
 
^^ Are you saying you can tell how thick paint is by looking at it and touching it? How?
 
That is beautiful work, Scott! I'm always stunned to see what my color (Black Sapphire Metallic) SHOULD look like. And i applaud you immensely for, like mentioned earlier, this ungodly blazing heat!
 
^^ Are you saying you can tell how thick paint is by looking at it and touching it? How?

How can I answer your question?
Understanding Modern Automotive Paintwork | Innovative Automotive Care | Clean Technology
If new paint is 110-140 microns so the older the car, the more scratches it got around the thicker is the paint there. I don't know exact number of course but I see overall condition it's enough to know how to organize detailing or simply reject the customer because why to BS people if doesn't matter what will be done, car will look ####.
Most cars even in very bad condition can be restored but not all, I have seen how people use wet sanding on scratch resistant paint & nano paint & then wonder why car looks not only very ugly but finish becomes matte.
By touching it I mean when I use clay bar or apply polish or wax by hand or machine I see how paint reacts, reflects & from there I understand the clear coat condition & apply only products that will change the look for the better.
Sometimes people polish intensively already very damaged clear coat so such car will never look good as they remove clear completely, paint will never shine nice & there is no protection is left so weather will kill such metallic paint much faster if they would simply polish & wax it by hand.
Brabus Israel Bavarian Motors Club use paint thickness gauge because they also trade in luxury used cars so they like to estimate the overall condition, not only mechanics but also visual & it makes sense but detailers who use it what they expect from it?
If they can't understand how to polish the car without this funny instrument, detailing is not their field.
In my end opinion this magic plastic gadget is best when used by car dealers & automotive refinish industry, car care professionals better learn to use their brain & eyes.


And the best car paint is of course made by BASF!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x4pdYQ-kc3M&feature=youtu.be

P.S. The other thing I can see only by touching & looking at car's paint is to know if it's original factory paint or repainted, sometimes on AG forum I see it even from the pics.
 
That is a magnificent turnaround! The pics really how the process as well as the before and after that us detailers always look forward to seeing. I hope your customer was more than happy with the end result!

Extra kudos for detailing in that miserable Florida summer heat! I am perspiring just looking at the photos.

GREAT JOB SCOTT!
 
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