Flex PE14-2-150 Shocking

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Zubair

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So I received my Flex PE14-2-150 today. I decided to do a test spot using a 5.5" LC Orange light cutting pad with M105 on a swirled out fender just to get a feel as I only have experience with my DAS/3401/Rupes15.

While the DAS needed speed 6 to cut with the same pad, the Flex needed speed 4 with the Orange Hybrid,Rupes HD Blue Speed 4, wana guess what speed the PE-14 got the same results in?
 
FUNX650 said:
P
I'll guess that you probably didn't even
have to turn the PE-14 on? :eek:


Bob
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Rofl lmao! Yeah just put it close to the paint and the swirls ran for their lives! :bolt:
 
I used speed 1!!! I am absolutely gobsmacked at the correction ability at speed 1! I initially thought I'd just spread the polish on 1 and then bump up to 3, but then thought to myself out of curiosity to just work the polish in at 1 and wipe off. If the swirls were still there bump up to 3, but after the wipedown I was floored, the finish was perfect!

Then I looked at the specs, the 3401 at speed 6 spins at 480rpm, the PE14 at speed 1 spins at 600rpm!

Also, its way quieter, smoother and powerful than any polisher I have ever used, it's ridiculous how easily this thing corrects paint! No fancy pads or compounds or technique. Makes me think we have regressed with DA's as this makes my 3401 and BigFoot look like one of those cheapy orbital wax spreaders in comparison. I can't believe I waited this long to buy this phenomenal piece of detailing treasure!

We all chasing faster correction through long throws,thinner pads and so forth when the answer all along was PE-14!
 
Zubair said:
I used speed 1!!! I am absolutely gobsmacked at the correction ability at speed 1! I initially thought I'd just spread the polish on 1 and then bump up to 3, but then thought to myself out of curiosity to just work the polish in at 1 and wipe off. If the swirls were still there bump up to 3, but after the wipedown I was floored, the finish was perfect!

Then I looked at the specs, the 3401 at speed 6 spins at 480rpm, the PE14 at speed 1 spins at 600rpm!

Also, its way quieter, smoother and powerful than any polisher I have ever used, it's ridiculous how easily this thing corrects paint! No fancy pads or compounds or technique. Makes me think we have regressed with DA's as this makes my 3401 and BigFoot look like one of those cheapy orbital wax spreaders in comparison. I can't believe I waited this long to buy this phenomenal piece of detailing treasure!

We all chasing faster correction through long throws,thinner pads and so forth when the answer all along was PE-14!
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:iagree::dblthumb2::xyxthumbs::props:Im the MAN
Once you start doing more than 5-10 cars a year time is everything. And the rotary polisher, though dangerous in the wrong hands, has always been and I reckon will always be the tool of choice for heavy initial cutting in a production environment. I deal with tree/brush scratches on 4x4 pickups all the time and when that's the case the PE-14 is my goto!!
 
Absolutely fascinating comment. Did you find the rotary hard to control? I am way to inexperienced to even attempt rotary usage since the risk of "burning" paint is too great and I only take care of my own rides. I don't do much correction myself but this is surely very interesting. Is it fair to say rotary for correction, DA for polishing? If so, I have my tools already since correction work is not something I need to do.
 
In the beginning I bought the DAS 6 thinking it would be at this level, little did I know paint was harder to correct or I expected too much out of the DAS(PC24XP to you guys). I then got the Rupes and was impressed but still didn't get the results vs time as I initially intended so bought the Flex 3401 which was around the same as the Rupes so thought thats it, they the pinnacle of correction. Today I finally achieved and received the speed and level of cut I always wanted. The sense of self satisfaction and joy is unexplainable.

Smooth
Quiet
Light
Powerful

Sums it up
 
mbpress01 said:
Absolutely fascinating comment. Did you find the rotary hard to control? I am way to inexperienced to even attempt rotary usage since the risk of "burning" paint is too great and I only take care of my own rides. I don't do much correction myself but this is surely very interesting. Is it fair to say rotary for correction, DA for polishing? If so, I have my tools already since correction work is not something I need to do.
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The way I decide if a rotary is needed is based on how deep the scratches are and how hard the paint is. If you're estimating 8 hours or more on a correction with a 3401 or Rupes then you probably should start with a rotary. The first hour I had on the machine was a bit scary but now I'm 100% confident in my ability to control it. Just focus on what your cutting edge is and never cut "into" a panel, always be "pushing the paint" to the edge, not away from it. If there's not a how to on this I'll make one soon when work (hopefully) slows down, it's been a crazy busy fall season. Like you said though, if you're not doing correction work there is no need for a rotary.
 
I am rotary for cutting/correction and 50% finishing too. The other 50% finishing is via DA. While rotaries can cut more effectively you run the risk of leaving holograms. Forced rotation is forced rotation!

I WILL have a PE-14!
 
Puckman said:
I am rotary for cutting/correction and 50% finishing too. The other 50% finishing is via DA. While rotaries can cut more effectively you run the risk of leaving holograms. Forced rotation is forced rotation!

I WILL have a PE-14!
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This is exactly how I'm going to start using my new flex. New users must be very careful.
 
WRAPT C5Z06 said:
Do you find the PE-14 easier to control than the 3401?
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It will walk more, you will immediately feel the extra torque. The extra power is immediately noticeable. However its not overwhelming like the sensationalists would have you believe. You dont need the heavy pressure on the nose or the slow arm speeds neither the screams/noise created by high speeds needed to be dialed in for DA's to correct. Vibrations? None! This is polishing Nirvana!
 
You have to love the capabilities of the PE14. I hardly ever bump mine past speed 2. Always great to have a rotary handy.
 
Yer shocked that a rotary is faster and better cutting than a DA? lol. I had to go look up the PE-14 thinking it was some new tool I never heard about. LOL LOL
 
I now understand why Mike Phillips says its the polisher or rotary he grabs first. I tried a Makita once but it felt bulky and outdated.
 
Puckman said:
I am rotary for cutting/correction and 50% finishing too. The other 50% finishing is via DA. While rotaries can cut more effectively you run the risk of leaving holograms. Forced rotation is forced rotation!

I WILL have a PE-14!
Click to expand...
What rotary are you currently using?
 
FinishingTouchA said:
The way I decide if a rotary is needed is based on how deep the scratches are and how hard the paint is. If you're estimating 8 hours or more on a correction with a 3401 or Rupes then you probably should start with a rotary. The first hour I had on the machine was a bit scary but now I'm 100% confident in my ability to control it. Just focus on what your cutting edge is and never cut "into" a panel, always be "pushing the paint" to the edge, not away from it. If there's not a how to on this I'll make one soon when work (hopefully) slows down, it's been a crazy busy fall season. Like you said though, if you're not doing correction work there is no need for a rotary.
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I understand what you are saying,I think anyone who details for a living should have a rotary and know the limits of a rotary.you may get a guy who has a isolated 12 inch long scratch on his new pickup and willing to pay 150.00 to remove it and a half hour of your time.spot repairs don't happen all the time but when someone stops buy and says hey can you take this scratch out,I've been to 3 detail shops and they said no and you knock it out for 150.00 for half hour it's the best feeling.so rotary skills are essential to detailing for a living.
 
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