Swapping Cutting Polish

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jmikolich

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Was working on removing some swirls the other day, and started with the least aggressive polish and pad I could, but was not getting the results I was looking for, so moved towards a more aggressive setup.

I started with Lake Country White pad on PC7424XP with XMT #2 polish, when I wanted to swap I was going to move to the XMT #3 polish... how should I have handled cleaning the current white pad? or should I have just taken it off the machine and swapped in a fresh one?

Is there any harm in combining polishes assuming you're always going to a more aggressive cut?

I ended up eventually going with the XMT #4 polish on a Lake Country Orange, but even that wasn't quite the level of removal I was hoping for (spread on speed 3, worked in on speed 6 2'x2' area, intentionally trying to keep arm speed slow but definitely unsure of amount of pressure I was applying, though backing plate is marked, and pad was rotating)
 
You might need a compound instead of a polish.The condition of paint have so many variables hard to give defenitive answer as to what pads and such.Try your local auto pars store and pick up some ultimate compound by meguairs,then see if you need to amp it up a bit with something with more of a bite.
 
I only included the stuff that helped to guide me towards what I was doing wrong... in reality I tried about 5 or 6 different compounds, including Megs ultimate compound, XMT #2,#3 & #4, BOSS Correcting, Menzerna 3 in 1

I'm just curious as to the "cross contamination" of the pad from swapping around working media mid removal.

EDIT: I'm probably calling them the wrong names, as some of them are probably polishes and some are compounds, but you get the idea I was diligently trying to go least aggressive to most in order to achieve the results I wanted.
 
jmikolich said:
Was working on removing some swirls the other day, and started with the least aggressive polish and pad I could, but was not getting the results I was looking for, so moved towards a more aggressive setup.

I started with Lake Country White pad on PC7424XP with XMT #2 polish, when I wanted to swap I was going to move to the XMT #3 polish... how should I have handled cleaning the current white pad? or should I have just taken it off the machine and swapped in a fresh one?

Is there any harm in combining polishes assuming you're always going to a more aggressive cut?


I ended up eventually going with the XMT #4 polish on a Lake Country Orange, but even that wasn't quite the level of removal I was hoping for (spread on speed 3, worked in on speed 6 2'x2' area, intentionally trying to keep arm speed slow but definitely unsure of amount of pressure I was applying, though backing plate is marked, and pad was rotating)
Click to expand...



No, I do not believe that you will 'harm' anything by 'mixing' polishes on the pad, however, you will get much more accurate results by utilizing a new pad every time you switch out/try a new polish. I know you can burn thru some pads pretty quickly this way, but you will have a better 'guideline' for the work you are performing.

Hope this helps out!
 
WRAPT C5Z06 said:
PC is your problem. MF cutting pad should help.
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That level of material removal is still beyond my comfort zone, I'm comfortable with modern polishes and not too worried about eating through all the clear with them, but cutting discs seem way more aggressive. This was on a 2011 GS Corvette which i've read has notoriously hard paint.

BudgetPlan1 said:
Megs D300 w microfiber cutting discs
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cutting discs scare me, the name alone makes them terrifying

Sizzle Chest said:
No, I do not believe that you will 'harm' anything by 'mixing' polishes on the pad, however, you will get much more accurate results by utilizing a new pad every time you switch out/try a new polish. I know you can burn thru some pads pretty quickly this way, but you will have a better 'guideline' for the work you are performing.

Hope this helps out!
Click to expand...

Yes this does help, I would have swapped pads if I had enough (Don't come yell at me Mike) but I only had 4 pads on hand to cover this particular area and my cleaning on the fly technique is also dicey.

I think I should have focused more on the results I was getting from each compound, perhaps even a notebook, but I was also on a time crunch
 
Sizzle Chest nailed my approach too in that i always grab a fresh, clean pad to see what that next product will do on it's own. I don't like to confuse the results of a test spot with a hybrid mix on one pad.
 
As long as you are cleaning the pad on the fly between test spots / compounds then little "harm"...

once you find the level you are after, worth while starting fresh with pads and compound of the final selection...
If nothing else just removes variables ie other compounds impacting the final selection.. unlikely but if your are into not taking chances..

Re getting more cut... I stopped messing about with small incremental changes and go straight to foamed wool on a roatry... then play with either SMAT ot DAT depending on the level of cut, and finish i want from that pass.. that is when the foam pads and heavy cut compounds start to flounder.. ie hard paints.. accepting i'll be going over it with a foam pad on DA and a DAT polish afterwards to bring the gloss up..
 
Honestly don't be afraid.. the progression from foam to MF on Da is not night and day.. its incremental.. and you are in control...

ON HARDER PAINTS be confident that even wool on a rotary with a strong SMAT compound still takes some work to cut.. its not an angle grinder.... again you are in control..

just be smart in the use and avoid edges and raised profiles as thes will cause more issues than the polisher... ie they focus the pressure and hence cut rate many more tens of times more than any pad / compound selection...

Even denim and velvet are relatively forgiving.... so long as your technique is sound.....

Sanding.. well now we really do have the oppurtunity to bugger things up quite quickly... work through the above and if you end up here.. then you'll know a lot more about what you can and can't get away with and how to recover surfaces with 2000grit abrasion anyway.. so again less daunting..

Anyhow, all the best... just remeber if it all goes tits up you can always get the section repainted.. we're not saving lives here.. just reflections..
 
If you tried that many polishes and still not getting the desired results it tells me you need to step up in the aggressiveness. Yes the cutting discs are more aggressive but far safer than old school rotary with wool pad. Usually the C6 paint is very hard as you said and you have two choices, you need to step up the aggressiveness or just realize the limitations of your current inventory and accept it for what it is
 
jmikolich said:
Was working on removing some swirls the other day, and started with the least aggressive polish and pad I could, but was not getting the results I was looking for, so moved towards a more aggressive setup.

I started with Lake Country White pad on PC7424XP with XMT #2 polish, when I wanted to swap I was going to move to the XMT #3 polish... how should I have handled cleaning the current white pad? or should I have just taken it off the machine and swapped in a fresh one?

Is there any harm in combining polishes assuming you're always going to a more aggressive cut?

I ended up eventually going with the XMT #4 polish on a Lake Country Orange, but even that wasn't quite the level of removal I was hoping for (spread on speed 3, worked in on speed 6 2'x2' area, intentionally trying to keep arm speed slow but definitely unsure of amount of pressure I was applying, though backing plate is marked, and pad was rotating)
Click to expand...

Compared to some of the guys that have replied here, I know next to nothing. But, these are some of the same guys who have pointed me in the right direction. And believe me, these guys here on AG know what the hell they're talking about.

Also, the way you presented your question was excellent. I always wondered that myself, and just went ahead and did it. Lol
 
I ended up accepting the limitations of my current inventory.... and then running to AGO and buying more stuff :laughing:
 
Sounds like you need a dedicated heavy cutting product, a finishing product, and corresponding pads.

For someone not trying to do this professionally, the Meguiar's Ultimate line works great.

The Lake Country Hydrotech foam pad line is an excellent match to the Ultimate Line of liquids.

Lake Country also has a new line of microfiber pads coming out soon. But they also make a thin foamed purple wool pad, which is and excellent cutter. I like to have fiber pads with me just in case.

My normal cutting pad is actually considered a polishing pad by its manufacturer - the green Buff and Shine.

I was helping a friend out with his fleet of vehicles. I started on the cab of one of his work trucks, and was to move on to one of his classics. Well, before I got done he decided to wet sand his classic with 1500. His rotary didn't have the torque to muscle through the job, and would severely bog down when I put down the pressure necessary to flatten out the fibers.

So I slapped on a green pad, dressed it with five dots of Meguiar's M100, and went for it. I reloaded with three dots around the car.

The technique requires as light as possible pressure, in order to achieve maximum rotation, and enough compound to get rolling around the surface. Obviously, I was on speed 6. This was about 4-5 passes.
 
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