Might be going all optimum...input requested

Or if I know I'm going to to coat the trim I'll use hyper polish as the initial step in the prepping process to make sure the trim has an even appearance throughout.

So you're saying that Hyper Polish followed by a "regular" coating is an alternative to simply cleaning and using a trim restorer like DLux? Approximately the same results?
 
Optimum hyper intensive polish and hyper compound suck, but all the other optimum products I've tried(a lot) have been great.
 
Optimum hyper intensive polish and hyper compound suck, but all the other optimum products I've tried(a lot) have been great.

I have to agree. I like pretty much everything Optimum makes but they are lacking a good compound IMO.
 
It seems a little thicker/streakier than most other IDs. The gloss I get from it in my grey metallic car is crazy. As good as most spray waxes. On this car it seems to give a little more depth - hard to describe.

A fan or ONR as well. Not sure why it seems to be less popular now. Only opt product I've had an issue with is opti-clean. Works great, but I find the perfumey smell a little overwhelming.

Opti-Clean is hit or miss for me. It is temperature dependent. Saying that it will sometimes streak for me and other times it will not. Works pretty well on the interior and for wheels that are not that dirty.
 
I've been thinking of doing the same but I've never tried their compound or polish, I like the synergy they've built!
 
Opti-Clean is hit or miss for me. It is temperature dependent. Saying that it will sometimes streak for me and other times it will not. Works pretty well on the interior and for wheels that are not that dirty.

Not a fan of Opti-Clean as a waterless wash or QD. Streaks like crazy if warm or left to dwell a little. Works great on wheels and tires and interiors though.
 
I used the Finish Polish II followed by the blue Finish Polish on one of my vehicles and I was happy with the results. Six months later I went back to use them both on another vehicle, and the polishes had completely separated from the fluid carrier, and no matter how much shaking I did, I could not get them to return to a "creamy" state. I contacted their head office and they claimed this was a natural part of having to manufacture a water-based product. I was never able to use any of the remaining product as it was useless; it became a complete write-off.
 
I have to agree. I like pretty much everything Optimum makes but they are lacking a good compound IMO.

Have you tried the latest (white) Hyper Compound? Or the previous (orange, now Intensive Polish) version?

Not enough cut? Not a good enough finish? What do you like better?

I know the newer versions of the polish and compound were supposed to cut more and finish better, and then they added the white compound which was supposed to have even more cut. I haven't used any of the newer ones, wondering if they still missed the mark (although the mark keeps moving).
 
I used the Finish Polish II followed by the blue Finish Polish on one of my vehicles and I was happy with the results. Six months later I went back to use them both on another vehicle, and the polishes had completely separated from the fluid carrier, and no matter how much shaking I did, I could not get them to return to a "creamy" state. I contacted their head office and they claimed this was a natural part of having to manufacture a water-based product. I was never able to use any of the remaining product as it was useless; it became a complete write-off.

How long ago was that? I thought they had fixed the problem. I've had my cream polishes for 2 or 3 years now and they've been fine. If you have high storage temperatures I'm sure that's not going to help, usually what deteriorates the water-based products is some sort of fungal or bacterial growth. But regardless, I only remember the problem when they first changed to the water-based formula, which was 5-6-7 years ago I think, haven't heard anything about the problem lately, not that it wasn't a huge annoyance, especially when Chris Thomas's solution was "buy smaller bottles so you use it up faster, we sell down to 8oz size now".
 
Have you tried the latest (white) Hyper Compound? Or the previous (orange, now Intensive Polish) version?

Not enough cut? Not a good enough finish? What do you like better?

I know the newer versions of the polish and compound were supposed to cut more and finish better, and then they added the white compound which was supposed to have even more cut. I haven't used any of the newer ones, wondering if they still missed the mark (although the mark keeps moving).

I think I actually have 2 bottles of the newest compound now, 1 was sent to me by mistake. The few times I've tried the newest version it either hazed the finish very badly or it wouldn't wipe off cleanly. I love Hyper Polish and it's one of my most used polishes but the compound works nothing like it IME. To be fair I quickly tossed it aside and chose one of my more common compounds. I don't have time for fussy when working on a job so I reach for what I know will work with how I polish. My go to compounds are Fast Correct Cream, M205 (yes), M100, and M101, in that order. ;)
 
Thanks Rasky, sounds like I'll be skipping that white Hyper Compound. I haven't even gotten to try my bottles of the new Hyper Polish (blue) or what is now called Intensive Polish (orange).
 
Poli-Seal is a long way from an abraisive polish.

I don't think it could even "make a dent" in the Collenite let alone the Gloss Coat.

It may be a waste of time but it was my time and I now have a proven technique for myself on my car.
 
Poli-Seal is a long way from an abrasive polish. I don't think it could even "make a dent" in the Collinite let alone the Gloss Coat.

Crispy, you're entitled to your opinion, but it's my opinion that if you machine polish with a product that I have used and Optimum describes as " Optimum Poli-Seal™ contains micro abrasives that eliminate (not hide) minor surface imperfections" you're absolutely going to remover your Collinite, and potentially some/all of the Gloss-Coat. You're aware that Poli-Seal was a recommended method to remove OC 2.0 high spots? Which was a lot tougher than Gloss-Coat.
 
What are the performance differences between the spray on compound and polish, and the cream?
 
Poli-Seal is a long way from an abraisive polish.

I don't think it could even "make a dent" in the Collenite let alone the Gloss Coat.

It may be a waste of time but it was my time and I now have a proven technique for myself on my car.

I'm curious what makes you think that it won't make a dent. Given that you used an abrasive AIO on a polishing pad definitely removed whatever is on the surface. Hate to say it but you are more than likely seeing the surface tension of poli-seal and/or collinite and not gloss coat.

Crispy, you're entitled to your opinion, but it's my opinion that if you machine polish with a product that I have used and Optimum describes as " Optimum Poli-Seal™ contains micro abrasives that eliminate (not hide) minor surface imperfections" you're absolutely going to remover your Collinite, and potentially some/all of the Gloss-Coat. You're aware that Poli-Seal was a recommended method to remove OC 2.0 high spots? Which was a lot tougher than Gloss-Coat.

Going to have to agree with Setec on this one. An abrasive AIO (like Poli-Seal) or even an abrasive polish will remove gloss coat and collinite as well.
 
What are the performance differences between the spray on compound and polish, and the cream?

I'm not sure what you mean, if you mean cut? This was posted at the OPT forum about a year ago:

Optimum Polish "cut scale":


[table="width: 250"]
[tr]
[td]Poli-Seal, Finish[/td]
[td]2[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]GPS[/td]
[td]3[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Polish II[/td]
[td]4[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Hyper Polish, Primer[/td]
[td]5[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Compound II, Intensive Polish[/td]
[td]8[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Hyper Compound[/td]
[td]10[/td]
[/tr]
[/table]

There is some confusion (in the OPT world) over DAT/SMAT, because at one time we were told they are all SMAT, but that apparently isn't the case any more. Here is what was posted over there about DAT/SMAT (again, about a year ago):

The polishes (Polish II, Hyper Polish, Finish) use SMAT while the rest contain DAT.

----BUT----

Dr G states that the products are unique formulations that don't comply with traditional SMAT/DAT descriptions and combine characteristics of both.


FWIW when FG400 came out and I asked if it was SMAT or DAT, this is what Mike Phillips said:


"Is it SMAT or DAT? Menzerna isn't' saying. Anything you read or hear from anyone else is speculation and in my opinion in not relevant because in the big picture you're going to pour out a bead of product onto the paint to use with a rotary buffer or apply some to the face of the pad on a DA Polisher and get to work.

How it's made is certainly interesting and I'm always just as curious as the next guy about abrasive technology, a case can even be made that I'm more curious. But at the end of the day the only really important factor is the results you achieve and the performance of the product, not what's in the bottle."



If that wasn't what you were asking, if you were asking about the usage of creme vs. spray...they all work pretty much the same, the sprayable ones have a higher solvent content since they need to be more "watery" to spray...I think the jury is out on whether the sprayable feature is good or bad, the idea is to be able to easily get an even application of product on the face of the pad...in practice you usually wind up with some on the pad (which may or may not be even), some on the machine, some on your arm, some on the car, some on the side of the house, the dog, etc. Plus people complain about the sprayers breaking (I haven't had that issue...sometimes they get a little clogged if you haven't used them for a while), so some Hyper users just transfer to a traditional bottle.

IME all the OPT polishes have long work time and easy wipeoff (Rasky's comments about the newest Hyper Compound notwithstanding), although I haven't used the newest versions of the Hyper products, or GPS, and the Primer is a pro-only product. I think the original attraction for me was that OPT said that you don't need to do any special cleaning or prep wipe to follow any of their polishes with an OPT coating (this was before they came out with their own prep wipe). They said just dry wipe the polish and coat; I still usually did an IPA wipe just on GP's, but it gave me more confidence given they stated I didn't need to do that.
 
I'm not sure what you mean, if you mean cut? This was posted at the OPT forum about a year ago:

Optimum Polish "cut scale":


[table="width: 250"]
[tr]
[td]Poli-Seal, Finish[/td]
[td]2[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]GPS[/td]
[td]3[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Polish II[/td]
[td]4[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Hyper Polish, Primer[/td]
[td]5[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Compound II, Intensive Polish[/td]
[td]8[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Hyper Compound[/td]
[td]10[/td]
[/tr]
[/table]

There is some confusion (in the OPT world) over DAT/SMAT, because at one time we were told they are all SMAT, but that apparently isn't the case any more. Here is what was posted over there about DAT/SMAT (again, about a year ago):

The polishes (Polish II, Hyper Polish, Finish) use SMAT while the rest contain DAT.

----BUT----

Dr G states that the products are unique formulations that don't comply with traditional SMAT/DAT descriptions and combine characteristics of both.


FWIW when FG400 came out and I asked if it was SMAT or DAT, this is what Mike Phillips said:


"Is it SMAT or DAT? Menzerna isn't' saying. Anything you read or hear from anyone else is speculation and in my opinion in not relevant because in the big picture you're going to pour out a bead of product onto the paint to use with a rotary buffer or apply some to the face of the pad on a DA Polisher and get to work.

How it's made is certainly interesting and I'm always just as curious as the next guy about abrasive technology, a case can even be made that I'm more curious. But at the end of the day the only really important factor is the results you achieve and the performance of the product, not what's in the bottle."



If that wasn't what you were asking, if you were asking about the usage of creme vs. spray...they all work pretty much the same, the sprayable ones have a higher solvent content since they need to be more "watery" to spray...I think the jury is out on whether the sprayable feature is good or bad, the idea is to be able to easily get an even application of product on the face of the pad...in practice you usually wind up with some on the pad (which may or may not be even), some on the machine, some on your arm, some on the car, some on the side of the house, the dog, etc. Plus people complain about the sprayers breaking (I haven't had that issue...sometimes they get a little clogged if you haven't used them for a while), so some Hyper users just transfer to a traditional bottle.

IME all the OPT polishes have long work time and easy wipeoff (Rasky's comments about the newest Hyper Compound notwithstanding), although I haven't used the newest versions of the Hyper products, or GPS, and the Primer is a pro-only product. I think the original attraction for me was that OPT said that you don't need to do any special cleaning or prep wipe to follow any of their polishes with an OPT coating (this was before they came out with their own prep wipe). They said just dry wipe the polish and coat; I still usually did an IPA wipe just on GP's, but it gave me more confidence given they stated I didn't need to do that.

Thank you!

Exactly what I was looking for.

I have to disagree on the point of DAT vs SMAT products. They're absolutely not the same animal, and have different charactertstics. My approach with the two is very different actually. Espically concerning finish polishing. If I worked M205 like I do SF4000, the results are different.
 
I have to disagree on the point of DAT vs SMAT products. They're absolutely not the same animal, and have different charactertstics. My approach with the two is very different actually. Espically concerning finish polishing. If I worked M205 like I do SF4000, the results are different.

Yeah, I don't know what to say on that whole topic, and I agree with you it's germane to what technique you use.
 
I'm not sure what you mean, if you mean cut? This was posted at the OPT forum about a year ago:

Optimum Polish "cut scale":


[TABLE="width: 250"]
[TR]
[TD]Poli-Seal, Finish[/TD]
[TD]2[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]GPS[/TD]
[TD]3[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Polish II[/TD]
[TD]4[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Hyper Polish, Primer[/TD]
[TD]5[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Compound II, Intensive Polish[/TD]
[TD]8[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Hyper Compound[/TD]
[TD]10[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]

There is some confusion (in the OPT world) over DAT/SMAT, because at one time we were told they are all SMAT, but that apparently isn't the case any more. Here is what was posted over there about DAT/SMAT (again, about a year ago):

The polishes (Polish II, Hyper Polish, Finish) use SMAT while the rest contain DAT.

----BUT----

Dr G states that the products are unique formulations that don't comply with traditional SMAT/DAT descriptions and combine characteristics of both.


FWIW when FG400 came out and I asked if it was SMAT or DAT, this is what Mike Phillips said:


"Is it SMAT or DAT? Menzerna isn't' saying. Anything you read or hear from anyone else is speculation and in my opinion in not relevant because in the big picture you're going to pour out a bead of product onto the paint to use with a rotary buffer or apply some to the face of the pad on a DA Polisher and get to work.

How it's made is certainly interesting and I'm always just as curious as the next guy about abrasive technology, a case can even be made that I'm more curious. But at the end of the day the only really important factor is the results you achieve and the performance of the product, not what's in the bottle."



If that wasn't what you were asking, if you were asking about the usage of creme vs. spray...they all work pretty much the same, the sprayable ones have a higher solvent content since they need to be more "watery" to spray...I think the jury is out on whether the sprayable feature is good or bad, the idea is to be able to easily get an even application of product on the face of the pad...in practice you usually wind up with some on the pad (which may or may not be even), some on the machine, some on your arm, some on the car, some on the side of the house, the dog, etc. Plus people complain about the sprayers breaking (I haven't had that issue...sometimes they get a little clogged if you haven't used them for a while), so some Hyper users just transfer to a traditional bottle.

IME all the OPT polishes have long work time and easy wipeoff (Rasky's comments about the newest Hyper Compound notwithstanding), although I haven't used the newest versions of the Hyper products, or GPS, and the Primer is a pro-only product. I think the original attraction for me was that OPT said that you don't need to do any special cleaning or prep wipe to follow any of their polishes with an OPT coating (this was before they came out with their own prep wipe). They said just dry wipe the polish and coat; I still usually did an IPA wipe just on GP's, but it gave me more confidence given they stated I didn't need to do that.


The comments about the SMAT / DAT sounds similar to that of the abrasives in the BOSS creams. From what Jeff wrote on the topic it sounded like they were "clusters" of SMAT abrasives, in that the clusters have an initial heavy cut until they break down to the SMAT abrasive size, which still offer good cut, but with a more refined finish...if that makes sense. That's how I inferred his article on the subject. Perhaps the abrasives Dr. G is referring to are similar?
 
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