Jescar Correcting Compound and Micro Finishing Polish - Top Shelf Abrasive Technology

Mike,

You don't happen to have a side-by-side pic of the paint after the compound step vs. after the polishing step?

These are pictures after JUST compounding


Here's the results of JUST the compound...


Mike Phillips said:
Jescar_006.JPG



Here's the results lit up by the flash from my camera...

Jescar_007.JPG




And here's the results of JUST the compound using the SCANGRIP Sunmatch swirl finder light...

Scangrip_Swirl_Finder_Lights_027.JPG


Scangrip_Swirl_Finder_Lights_028.JPG


Scangrip_Swirl_Finder_Lights_029.JPG


Scangrip_Swirl_Finder_Lights_030.JPG



I was impressed. The results looked so good I could have skipped the polishing step and went straight to wax. But I didn't because I wanted and needed a real-world opinion on both the compound and the polish. It's important if you want to be the real deal to then be the real deal.


If you don't; in your estimation how would you quantify the measure of improvement of the correction after the compound and then to what extent did the polish improve the compounding results?

Was it something like, the compound got you 95% and the polish kicked in another 5-7%?

I'd say the compound took the paint to about 95% of visible potential. The polish would have taken the paint to 99% of total potential.

What I say and write about when working with such high quality compounds available on the market today is that the results you see look REALLY GOOD - BUT - if you're using any type of cutting pad the potential for marring caused by the pad and the process, (the process is the sum total of factors), may NOT be visible without either chemically stripping the paint or until after time has gone.

This is especially true for dark colored cars but keep in mind if marring is happening and visible on dark colored cars it's happening on light colored cars it's just the human eye cannot easily see it.

So what I say, write and practice is to follow an aggressive compounding step wit a less aggressive polishing step no matter how great the results look after the compounding step to insure the final results are professional quality.


On this Camaro, did the combo get you to a show car level of correction, production level, etc.?

Show car level results.... easily....


Either way, love that color and wow, that's one lucky lady (the daughter)!

I'm sure this car will be back in the future for more saving. That is unless she trades it in and buys something different but even then I'll be the one "saving" the appearance.


Good questions...


:)
 
Mike,

Thank for you for further elaborating.

Did you perform any sort of chemical stripping between the compound and polish processes? If so, what did you use?

Once you're deemed the "expert" in the family, you become the catch-all for all that stuff. I know the feeling all too well. Problem is, I know a little about too much stuff lol. :)
 
These are pictures after JUST compounding


Here's the results of JUST the compound...







I'd say the compound took the paint to about 95% of visible potential. The polish would have taken the paint to 99% of total potential.

What I say and write about when working with such high quality compounds available on the market today is that the results you see look REALLY GOOD - BUT - if you're using any type of cutting pad the potential for marring caused by the pad and the process, (the process is the sum total of factors), may NOT be visible without either chemically stripping the paint or until after time has gone.

This is especially true for dark colored cars but keep in mind if marring is happening and visible on dark colored cars it's happening on light colored cars it's just the human eye cannot easily see it.

So what I say, write and practice is to follow an aggressive compounding step wit a less aggressive polishing step no matter how great the results look after the compounding step to insure the final results are professional quality.




Show car level results.... easily....




I'm sure this car will be back in the future for more saving. That is unless she trades it in and buys something different but even then I'll be the one "saving" the appearance.


Good questions...


:)

Hi mike, Do you think using super finish 3800 after using this jescar finishing polish would be a waste of time or could it bring out that extra 1 percent?
 
While I realize that having high quality options is the greatest benefit to this hobby/business, I question the justification to spending $40 for the jescar product versus $25 for a bottle of Meguiars M105 (which I am still on the learning curve highway for a newbie)...that is unless I can tell the difference after use. Then again if tool and pads also matter then that just increases the complexity of the equation.

To sum it up, if I am using the PC7424XP, orange or white thin pro pad with M105, and white or black thin pro pad with M205 (which only in my limited use experience love its long work time and finishing ability):

Will I notice a difference between the more expensive products like Jescar, and Meguiars product? Do you end up using less product with the more expensive products therefore justifying the higher price?

If Jescar products will produce a subjective higher quality finish then I am on board and want to try it.

Thanks,
Ron
 
robwoodgto: With the PC you're slightly limited. In your case I don't think it's worth it.
 
I debated about asking the same question on the value for the money.

I made an assumption that if you have experience with an existing product(s) line, then try the cheaper 8oz bottles. I'm not sure if AG sells them. If not, then they can be bought direct from Jescar Finishing for half the price of the quart bottles.

If you catch a 25%-off sale, then that knocks the price down to ~$30/quart bottle. Granted, that also knocks the Megs price down too.
 
I debated about asking the same question on the value for the money.

I made an assumption that if you have experience with an existing product(s) line, then try the cheaper 8oz bottles. I'm not sure if AG sells them. If not, then they can be bought direct from Jescar Finishing for half the price of the quart bottles.

If you catch a 25%-off sale, then that knocks the price down to ~$30/quart bottle. Granted, that also knocks the Megs price down too.

Objective here is all about using the best product given the scenario and tools available. If that means spending 60% more for a product that produces a better result then I am on board.

M105 dusts to much

The few times that I have used it...and it has only been a few I have found that reducing my working area and after 4-6 passes lightly misting the the pad or panel I can get a couple additional passes and a great looking end result.
 
Objective here is all about using the best product given the scenario and tools available. If that means spending 60% more for a product that produces a better result then I am on board.



The few times that I have used it...and it has only been a few I have found that reducing my working area and after 4-6 passes lightly misting the the pad or panel I can get a couple additional passes and a great looking end result.

i dont disagree that it produces great results i just dont like the dust, you end up cleaning it out of crevices for weeks
 
Menzerma and Rupes pads don't mix well. I wonder if the same will apply to Jescar and Rupes pads? If the Rupes guys approve Jescar for their pads I'm in. If not I'll keep using B&S and LC Force pads with my Rupes polishers.
 
Menzerma and Rupes pads don't mix well.
I disagree. Why do you think so?

By the way, the Jescar polishes are nothing ground breaking. They're good, but if you have polishes that work for you, stick with them. I've tried both Jescar polishes and I like another compound and polish better.



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Hi mike, Do you think using super finish 3800 after using this jescar finishing polish would be a waste of time or could it bring out that extra 1 percent?

I think the Jescar polish is on par with the Menzerna Super Finish 3800

Here's the deal... even if it did squeeze out a little more shine, applying a wax or sealant or even coating would create a uniform appearance that would negate any difference.

When polishing paint, the application of a wax or sealant is the great equalizer. That is, applying a wax or sealant will tend to diminish any gained increase of one polish over the other.


I should write an article on this topic. (the great equalizer)



Mike,

Thank for you for further elaborating.

Did you perform any sort of chemical stripping between the compound and polish processes? If so, what did you use?

I did when I tested it on my black paint panel and it passed with flying colors. For a chemical stripper I used what was closest to my hand and that was the Gyeon Prep.

My preferred chemical stripper for compounds and polish is simple de-odorized mineral spirits.



Once you're deemed the "expert" in the family, you become the catch-all for all that stuff. I know the feeling all too well. Problem is, I know a little about too much stuff lol. :)

I would never lay claim to the title expert about anything, in fact I've probably typed over a hundred times on this forum that I'm a

Perpetual Student

New technology is being introduced so fast that they only way to keep up is to have an open mind and be learning all the time.




By the way, the Jescar polishes are nothing ground breaking. They're good, but if you have polishes that work for you, stick with them.


And if you don't have a compound/polish tag team then give them a try. I guarantee they will not let you down.

I was impressed not only with the performance of the product but the simplicity of the line, that is two products, not 20, there's a compound and a polish. Pretty easy to figure out what to use and the order to use them.


:)
 
Mike,

Do you recall how long it took you to compound and polish the Camaro?

My guess would be under 6 hours from start to finish.

The car was already washed in this write-up

Jay Leno’s Garage Vehicle Wash - Review and How-to by Mike Phillips


And then we used it for a TV commercial in this write-up

SCANGRIP TV COMMERCIAL - SCANGRIP Swirl Finder Lights - Review with pictures by Mike Phillips


But once the car is washed and decontaminated I can churn through most cars with the FLEX 3401 from start to finish, that is from compound to wiping off the wax in under 6 hours.

That includes taking pictures...

And of course, I obtained a number of articles from just this one car...


Jay Leno’s Garage Hand Wax - Review and How-To by Mike Phillips

Jay Leno’s Garage Tire & Trim Care - Review by Mike Phillips

Review: Jay Leno's Garage Quick Detailer by Mike Phillips


I think the above is it, so 5 articles out of one car.



:)
 
Have you done any videos that show you performing a complete correction process in its entirety? Like wash/decon/compound/polish/LSP? Or Compound/Polish?
 
Have you done any videos that show you performing a complete correction process in its entirety? Like wash/decon/compound/polish/LSP? Or Compound/Polish?


Yes.

There's one with Bruno Massel and I think two with Matt Steele on our YouTube Channel. Do a little Googling with their names and my names and they'll pull right up.


Then there's the first ever DVD ever shot showing the process from start to finish and that was with Richard Lin and myself back in 2006.


DVDfrontcover1.jpg



To this date, no one has ever shot a video just like this, not even we here at Autogeek.



:)
 
Thanks Mike!

How would you classify this Camaro's level of paint hardness?

Some here have suggested that the Micro Polish alone may be enough to correct softer clear coats (like purportedly on my '05 Subaru Forester and '14 Kia Sorento) and using a White or maybe Orange LC Force Hybrid.

Or, I suppose I could go the other direction, use the Jescar Compound and try a White or Black pad to reduce the aggressiveness of the pad cut, but still have the available cutting power of the chemical.

I'm expecting you to suggest to probably buy both and do test spots with the various pads :)
 
Thanks Mike!

How would you classify this Camaro's level of paint hardness?

I'd say it was in the medium range, if anything a tick on the harder side of medium.



I'm expecting you to suggest to probably buy both and do test spots with the various pads :)


It's a good idea to have tools or "options" so no matter what you can tackle anything.



:)
 
I was curious about this as well and so I emailed Jescar a while back and this was their response:

"The differences with Menzerna 400 compared to Jescar Correcting Compound is faster defect removal, better gloss, slightly less dust (both are very low already) and no heavy solvent smell. The Micro Finishing Polish is very similar to the excellent Menzerna 3500 but less oil residue for easier clean up and better gloss."

No strong odor of 400, and easier wipe off than 4000/3500, sounds like a home run!

The wipe of SF4000 keeps me reaching for the M205.

Needless to say that I'm looking forward to trying these out.

After using both Jescar Micro Finishing Polish side by side with SF 3500 yesterday, the former does, in fact, have less oily residue and wipes off significantly easier than the later. Check out this short video I made showing the difference:

 
After using both Jescar Micro Finishing Polish side by side with SF 3500 yesterday, the former does, in fact, have less oily residue and wipes off significantly easier than the later. Check out this short video I made showing the difference:

Cool video. What kind of car is that?


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