Sealant comparison

Sentra post above updated and added a video.

Rover update
I washed the Rover (also the Sentra) with Duragloss car wash soap (901/902) using a Big Red Sponge. I pressure washed first and washed the lower portion of the doors twice. Due to snow, ice, and salted/sanded roads over the last two weeks the grime was significant.

Product update (video here):
  • Reload was pretty much done last time. Very done this time.
  • FK #215, DG 932, and Future Armour also no longer working
  • DG 104, Can Coat, and Optiseal are doing well
 
SWETM said:
Strange that the bare paint behavior is behaving like that. What protection have you had before on those panels?

Thanks for still makeing updates and new testing! Have missed the last couple of updates you have done.

/ Tony
Click to expand...
It is strange. I don't recall what finishing polish I used. Maybe I screwed up and used an AIO? Should matter since I used prep polish after polishing. I think I polished with Nanoskin Compolish but don't recall. Should have documented better so I can avoid whatever it was in the future. Will polish the doors again with Menzerna 3800, then alcohol wipe, then wash with Reset and see how it behaves.
 
Somebody needs to get you some Collinite 476/915 to try. Nice to know the spray wax and 104 are still going
 
Maybe it's just the placebo effect. I still don't know what to make of anything after that mirror test that Swanic did.
 
Could be placebo, but the video doesn't lie. I can post one of the Sentra driver's side if you want to see it. I'll take all the input I can get.

I intentionally do many products at ones and did them in different locations on the Sentra. I don't review the product map before testing and I generally don't know what product is where. I don't even know where the non-product areas are. When I get down to 2-3 remaining it's pretty clear. Before then it's just a panel to me.

I think doing hoods and roofs also was harder to read because of sloping and ponding issues. I think (hope) using the doors and a pressure washer will give more reliable results.
 
davidc said:
Somebody needs to get you some Collinite 476/915 to try. Nice to know the spray wax and 104 are still going
Click to expand...
Let's work out a trade. Probably need to go to the trade discussion to make it legit. Let me know what you want if you have those two.
 
I have watched some videos of Apex detailing chanel on Youtube. He has started to polish on freshly applyied LSP products. And it's interesting to see how well in this case HCW and Mothers CMX Spray Coating stod up to the polishing with a regualar polish and polishing pad. He needed to be doing compound to be certain to get it off. That's why I asked about what you have used before on those panels. Now if you suspect you used an AIO that would be an answer to the behavior LOL. I just can see you in front of me scratching your head and thinking what the f is going on LOL. And with all of the different products you use I would have mixed them up badly if I would have done it LOL.
 
RippyD said:
Let's work out a trade. Probably need to go to the trade discussion to make it legit. Let me know what you want if you have those two.
Click to expand...
I have an unused pot of 915; if you'd like it, PM me your address and I'll send it to ya...gratis.

Have no need for it, not a 'wax guy'.
 
RippyD said:
Could be placebo, but the video doesn't lie.
Click to expand...

Poor choice of words on my part (perhaps because I put aside an article to read on placebo vs. drug testing, that seemed to be saying that drugs don't work), but I was more referring to what Tony was alluding to below and what Swanic found and was reiterated by PiPUK (whatever happened to him?) that sometimes when we think we are removing previous products we are simply clogging them and changing their beading characteristics, in other words, that it's a lot harder to get a "bare" surface than we thought it was.

SWETM said:
I have watched some videos of Apex detailing chanel on Youtube. He has started to polish on freshly applyied LSP products. And it's interesting to see how well in this case HCW and Mothers CMX Spray Coating stod up to the polishing with a regualar polish and polishing pad. He needed to be doing compound to be certain to get it off. That's why I asked about what you have used before on those panels.
Click to expand...
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Poor choice of words on my part (perhaps because I put aside an article to read on placebo vs. drug testing, that seemed to be saying that drugs don't work), but I was more referring to what Tony was alluding to below and what Swanic found and was reiterated by PiPUK (whatever happened to him?) that sometimes when we think we are removing previous products we are simply clogging them and changing their beading characteristics, in other words, that it's a lot harder to get a "bare" surface than we thought it was.
Click to expand...
Got it. I completely misunderstood. I haven't seen those vids. f I recall Mike has said that a finishing polish will remove a sealant. Hard to imagine that it doesn't since it's also removing scratches. But if others have found this to be the case, it makes sense. btw, I don't suspect I used an AIO, that's just how it's behaving.

However... what if this car has coating on it? If so I could have just removed the road grime so that coating is now sheeting again. Wild guess, but that's how it's behaving.

Regardless, your point is very well made and using a more aggressive polish makes sense. I would never have thought of this.
 
RippyD said:
Got it. I completely misunderstood. I haven't seen those vids. f I recall Mike has said that a finishing polish will remove a sealant. Hard to imagine that it doesn't since it's also removing scratches. But if others have found this to be the case, it makes sense. btw, I don't suspect I used an AIO, that's just how it's behaving.

However... what if this car has coating on it? If so I could have just removed the road grime so that coating is now sheeting again. Wild guess, but that's how it's behaving.

Regardless, your point is very well made and using a more aggressive polish makes sense. I would never have thought of this.
Click to expand...

Well, really, the "Swanic" test was trying to clean off a sealant or wax with car soap, APC, Dawn, solvent, etc. I haven't seen the videos SWETM mentioned.
 
Redid the Sentra driver's side. Polished with Menzerna 400/LC orange pad (3 passes), follow by Menzerna 3800/LC white pad, followed by McKee's prep polish/black pad. Also wiped down with CarPro Eraser. Anything that was on there should be gone.

I applied the same 5 products in the same order. The only difference is that I left a small area with no product at the rear of the passenger door this time. Car will be in the garage with the space heater going for at least 12 hours and probably 18.

ELjMy0Ml.jpg


F4vYYQzl.jpg
 
RippyD, I'm a brand new forum member and have been dabbling in detailing for a year or so. Just decided to get serious and I want to thank you very much for your tests! I just ordered a bottle of 845, and bought an HDX spray bottle over at the Home Depot, and a cheap 2 oz spray bottle from Target to try out the spray method with 845.

Also got some nice eagle edgeless 350's, a BRS, ONRWW, an IK multi for an ONR pre-soak, a Nanoskin Autoscrub "green" (medium) clay towel, detail guardz vortex grit guard, and your standard TUF SHINE Tire Brush. Sounds pretty plain but I'm super excited, coming from using crappy consumer shelf products!

Over at the HD I found some "Odo-Ban Microsham Cloths". A 3 pack was 5 dollars. They are some new type of microfiber, but they are thin as and feel like a chamois. I tried one out around the house and they are pretty aggressive, almost as agressive as magic erasers! Against better judgement, I'm going to attempt to correct some paint with 105/205 and a PC, and see if these Microsham are clear-coat safe on some soft black Honda paint.

Anyway sorry for the Off topic rant, I'm just really excited! What I really wanted to say is that it interested me that 845 was originally an electrical insulator wax. In the past I've used NO-OX-ID-A to prevent corrosion on brass. It's a thick paste with almost a vasoline type consistency, but it proves to be the best anti-corrosion inhibitor for electrical contacts. Has anyone ever dared to try this on paint? Apparently it's food contact safe... so it's probably safe on paint? With how thick it is, it should last a long time! Maybe I'm just a mad scientist :props:

NO-OX-ID Electrical Contact Grease- Conductive Lubricant | Sanchem, Inc.
 
Eventful E said:
Anyway sorry for the Off topic rant, I'm just really excited! What I really wanted to say is that it interested me that 845 was originally an electrical insulator wax. In the past I've used NO-OX-ID-A to prevent corrosion on brass. It's a thick paste with almost a vasoline type consistency, but it proves to be the best anti-corrosion inhibitor for electrical contacts. Has anyone ever dared to try this on paint? Apparently it's food contact safe... so it's probably safe on paint? With how thick it is, it should last a long time! Maybe I'm just a mad scientist :props:
Click to expand...

I don't know about for paint, but I think you convinced me to buy this stuff for my battery terminals, since they sell it at the river store. The only other conductive grease I've seen is a paste made from aluminum powder and some kind of oily stuff.
 
Had a lot of road grime after some snow. I pressure washed, then washed using CarPro Reset/Big Red Sponge. Videos are not great. Need to figure out how to get better water action on white paint. (Car washing at 31 degrees is unpleasant. Looking forward to Spring.)

Rover update (video):
  • DG 104 and CanCoat still going strong
  • OptiSeal working, but slowing down
  • Honorable mention to DG 931 as a QD. Still done, but moving water a little faster than the other done products
Sentra passenger side update (video):
  • Opt Spray Wax still going
  • 303 is slowing and is close to done
  • BF Crystal Seal still working somewhat. Going to re-set it's end date to this weekend - I called this one too early.
Sentra driver's side update: (video)
  • 303 working the best by far, next is Opt Spray Wax
  • Rupes, Fast Wax, and Crystal seal are all considerably slower
 
Have you looked at the Apex detailing chanel on Youtube lately? He have colored the water in the spray setup he has. Not so easy with a PW though LOL. But maybe a pump sprayer bottle with colored water could work in some way. Otherwise if you use a colored masking tape so the camera can focus on that and gets focused on the sheeting and beading at the same time. Just like you point a finger or something on glass so it's focus on the glass instead of going through it.
 
Interesting idea. I haven't watched that channel in a while. My pw has a soap dispenser. I could probably add something to it to get some color. Obviously has to be non-staining and not impact the surface tension.
 
RippyD said:
Interesting idea. I haven't watched that channel in a while. My pw has a soap dispenser. I could probably add something to it to get some color. Obviously has to be non-staining and not impact the surface tension.
Click to expand...

I think he share if you ask what he is useing. Yeah if staining would not be so great LOL. The soap dispenser on the PW seems like a great idea.
 
Washed the cars today with Duragloss Car Wash. I pressure washed first, then washed with a Big Red Sponge, then use the pressure washer to rinse. Then tested sheeting on the doors.

Rover
  • DG 104 and CanCoat doing very well. Almost np slowing.
  • OptiSeal doing ok.. About 20 seconds behind the other two.
Sentra Passenger Side
  • Opt spray wax working
  • BF Crystal Seal barely working but still hanging on(!)
  • 303 Spray wax is done
Sentra Driver's Side
  • Opt and 303 Spray Waxes doing pretty well
  • Crystal Seal and Rupes still working slowly
  • Fast Wax is done
I'll try to get videos posted tonight or tomorrow morning. Spreadsheet is updated.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top