I've never used any of the Griots Polishes to comment how they are? Seems that they are good products from reading other's reviews-comments about the latest line that they now make.
Due to your past experience, and I'll assume a good deal of hands on experience, I'd probably be correct to say you've seen and done a lot more than me.
Without blathering too much, I'm sure you've noted that you cannot "edge" an Orbital D/A like a Rotary. That there's no debate that every free spinning D/A will fall flat on its face when attempting a method which can be employed with a Rotary Machine.
Other observations would be that with the scratches still there to the degree that they were, then going to a milder perfecting cream from a more aggressive polish-compound surely wasn't going to get it. That follow up and additional use with the coarser product on hand was no doubt still needed before moving on.
You mention your use of using 3M products in the past, and I have used many of theirs myself over many years. They have a vast list, and just wanted to say there's basically no harm-foul of using whatever chemical products you personally like and are accustomed to and have good experience with.
These Griots Products, while I have not tried them, may be only suited for the removal of less than substantial paint damage, and more engineered towards the removal of wash induced marring-swirling, light oxidation, and other minor anomalies rather than the removal of deeper RIDS, Water Spotting, Heavy Oxidation, etc.
It of course takes experience and a trained eye to see how a specific product and process is working in regards of removing paint damage of the various types. It's why Mike Phillips our forum guru-expert here, and wise other detailers will suggest the "Test Spot" method to find what works properly and best per any given situation. No harm-foul of a need to repeat a process again to remove deeper isolated scratches, provided those more aggressive attempts do not leave behind permanent damage that then cannot be removed-rectified with further finessing steps.
You may achieve better results by first "working" on these isolated scratches by hand with a compound or very light-mild wet sanding, then coming behind again with the D/A? The D/A should be able to remove 3000 or 2000 grit wet sanding marks no problemo.
As for the Rotary and again acquiring and using one, of course, why not!? You may be able to find a nice used one on a local hometown classifieds, or other sources thus saving some substantial money in the process. Or perhaps borrow one temporarily from a friend?
The reason I went to a milder polishing cream and then later to a wax was simply because after multiple passes in each direction with varying amounts of pressure (I'm talking from just enough to keep the machine on the paint to almost to the point of stalling) I knew the scratch wasn't coming out with what I had on had.
After that point I still wanted to test the polish an wax. I've demo'd some polishes from vedors in the past that looked absolutely amazing when first applied, easy on, completely removed cutting burns, deep color etc only to have all the defects return a week or so later because the polish was just fillers and didn't actually polish.
To help paint a better picture of how bad my poor truck has gotten, I was beginning to see buffer swirl from when the dealership buffed it prior to me buying it... 4 years ago. I debadged the doors and tailgate not long after buying it and those "shadows" where also starting to become visible.
The truck has been through 1 thunderstorm, sitting in constant sunlight, and will be washed again today. If the Griots compounds are more filler than compound, I should be able to start to see evidence after the wash.
I dunno if that makes sense or not.
The reason I like 3m is because I had a vendor that sold 3m. A lot of the stuff I see y'all using is retail stuff, things I've never used.
I had vendors, they'd stop by or I'd call every so often and I'd get what I needed. I never used off the shelf products. Same with new products that whatever company they were peddling for came out with. They'd give me a sample of whatever, I'd demo it on the shop truck and go from there.
As far as wet sanding I'm really hesitant about doing anything like that without a rotary on hand, nothing I've seen from this orbital inspires enough confidence that I won't be driving around a truck with shiney, sanded panels.
As far as a rotary, yes I should get one, it's just a pretty steep investment for something I'm not going to use real often.
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