Now available - Dr. Beasley's Z1 Ceramic AIO Primer

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

My Z1 is on the way!!!

What are you going to use it on?

 

[Gparr]

2018 Tesla Model 3 Long Range Dark Metallic Silver

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

2018 Tesla Model 3 Long Range Dark Metallic Silver

Please do update this thread with your findings.


:buffing:

 

[Craig Encinitas]

I took delivery of a tube of Z1 and will be using it on a new’ish red Toyota Tundra. And it’ll get coated with Dr Beasley’s Nano Resin coating.

Mike, is Z1 compatible with the Uro Fiber 50/50 pads?

 

[TMQ]

Craig....Awesome. Let us know what you think.

Mind you---not user friendly and can be a bit of a pain to remove. If that happens--run polisher over and quickly wipe. It'll be easy then.

And newish Tundra----go with foam polishing pads. Test. It should correct and gloss will be off charts.

Tom

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Mike, is Z1 compatible with the Uro Fiber 50/50 pads?

Maybe - depends on if the paint is hard or soft.

Fibers are abrasives and on soft and medium paint the fibers themselves, regardless of the product will lead to micro-marring of the paint.

You rarely see me use micro-fiber pads. One reason is due to the micro-marring problem.


Fibers are a form of abrasive - Foam Pads vs Microfiber Pads by Mike Phillips

 

[TMQ]

With what was said above...Go foam.

Me---I'll start at middle with polishing pads.

Or go lighter--white soft pads.

No need for cutting or hard pads since Tundra is on the newish side.

Tom

 

[Jacob Harrod AUTOCLEAN]

So I could use this product and then top with the Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Ceramic Coating Pro?

How long do you think the coating would last?

The description of the Z1 says a year or more with the proper care. Perhaps topping with an accommodating 1 year coating would be best?

 

[Desertnate]

With what was said above...Go foam.

Me---I'll start at middle with polishing pads.

Or go lighter--white soft pads.

No need for cutting or hard pads since Tundra is on the newish side.

Tom

Agree on the white foam pads.

I've never used Z1, but Toyota paint is really soft. You can easily one-step polish most mild/moderate swirls away with a finishing polish and a medium cut polishing pad like a white Lake Country Flat or Thin Pro pad. I'd be afraid of a MF pad leaving a haze you'd have to go back and polish out...defeating the purpose of using Z1 in the first place.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

So I could use this product and then top with the Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Ceramic Coating Pro?

Yes - or any brand. That's the "open source" feature of this product. Probably holds true for other current products like this and as I predicted here,

Prediction - More one-step Cleaner/Coatings or Primers


It will hold true for future Ceramic AIOs introduced into the future. I know this product has already made an impact in the "market" as well as the detailing world.

How long do you think the coating would last?

I always love the above question. Here's the deal, after installing the coating if you put the car in a garage and leave it there - it will last forever.

Now if you put the car back on the road or back into service, then how long ANYTHING will last depends on how the paint is

TOUCHED

I cover this in my article here,

How long will a ceramic coating last on my car?


Actually, the two things I probably talk about the most in the car detailing world are the ideas of,

1: Abrasive Technology

2: Washing cars - or think of it as TOUCHING cars - When you wash a car you touch the paint and how you "touch" the paint determines how long anything lasts and also how long the car will look good.

Make sense?

Here's two washing scenarios.

1: Run a coated car through the brush-style swirl-o-matic car wash

2: Carefully hand wash a car using the multiple towel method I share here
​

Of the two cars,

Which coating will last the longest?

Which car will look good the longest?


See how it ALWAYS comes down to how a car is touched. I know this simply sound too too simple and most OCD type car detailing fanatics, both the enthusiast group and the pro detailer group wants to think and believe it's all about the specific BRAND of coating you invest your mind and money into - but at the end of the day - this just isn't so.

The description of the Z1 says a year or more with the proper care.

And them there are they key words - proper care - and this means how you touch the paint. Be it wiping it or washing it. We all touch our cars paint, the difference is in how and what we touch it with.


Take a look at this article,

How, why & when to inspect your microfiber towels when detailing cars

I think you'll see how getting the most out of any brand of coating, be it a 1-year product or a 100-year product - will all come down to proper care and a HUGE part of proper care is TOUCHING the paint with things that are clean, soft and UNCONTAMINATED.

Perhaps topping with an accommodating 1 year coating would be best?

I believe this is the best approach for any daily driver for the reasons I share here.


The case against multi-year ceramic paint coatings - Road Grime = Surface Staining Daily Drivers by Mike Phillips



The above is going deep. But it's only deep for people that can and will READ. And of course, after reading, thinking about these deep things.


:laughing:

 

[Craig Encinitas]

Maybe - depends on if the paint is hard or soft.
Fibers are abrasives and on soft and medium paint the fibers themselves, regardless of the product will lead to micro-marring of the paint.
You rarely see me use micro-fiber pads. One reason is due to the micro-marring problem.
Fibers are a form of abrasive - Foam Pads vs Microfiber Pads by Mike Phillips

Thanks. I did some research and found that specifically, the URO Fiber 50/50
pad(s) can work well with primer polishes on harder finishes. In the future, I will look for micromarring after finishing.

I’ve used LC microfiber finishing pads in the past and haven’t noticed any marring. But I did see self-installed scratches from improper buff-off technique.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

And yes, on the proper paint hardness.

And this is why we all do a Test Spot or two...


:dblthumb2:

 

[acuRAS82]

So I could use this product and then top with the Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Ceramic Coating Pro?

How long do you think the coating would last?

The description of the Z1 says a year or more with the proper care. Perhaps topping with an accommodating 1 year coating would be best?

Just to add my 2 cents, any coating that would normally last over a year for you on bare paint, should in theory last the same or more on Z1. In other words, Z1 isn’t going to dissolve underneath in a year or less, taking your coating with it and wasting time of your multi-year coating.

I’m not sure if my point above was any concern of yours, but it shouldn’t be. Coatings on Essence can last a very long time and Essence doesn’t seem anywhere near as robust as what we’re reading about Z1.

Note: I have not used Z1 yet and I don’t think anyone will have tested it for a year, but I’m more just stating that primers are meant to help the product going on top, not hinder it.

 

[acuRAS82]

What is the most extreme surface any readers have used this on without using any other polish prior?

Any experiences on a totally neglected surface to bring it back to decent life with only one step? There are, I’ve read some. So my real question is:

Any experiences using it to remove a strong LSP (a coating, CanCoat, newly applied polymer sealant)?

These questions may seem set up to identify AIO functionality versus primer functionality, and I guess that is why I’m asking.

For example, Essence generally shouldn’t be used to be the only polish/prime to remove a new, durable LSP, but I bet people have used it like that anyways. CarPro suggests compounding to remove a previous LSP if you are trying to start over with a new coating. To be safe, I’ve always compounded/polished before applying Essence unless the surface was already in really good shape and free of fresh LSPs.

I’m thinking AIOs should be expected to handle a one step even on paint that has a healthy LSP already. Just checking in real-life experiences of such a case.

 

[Jacob Harrod AUTOCLEAN]

The above is going deep. But it's only deep for people that can and will READ. And of course, after reading, thinking about these deep things.


:laughing:

You know I can and will read it brother! Thank you so much for curating this info for me, and for the absolutely amazing and DETAILED response! I'm thinking after reading that I'll purchase the Z1 Ceramic AIO Primer and accommodating Dr. Beasley's one year coating.

This will be for a special little project. A burgundy Ford F150 with a step side bed.

:urtheman:

 

[Desertnate]

Any experiences on a totally neglected surface to bring it back to decent life with only one step? There are, I’ve read some.

Did you find these reviews on YouTube or elsewhere?

I too am curious about the level of cut Z1 offers. The last AIO I used, Griots One Step Sealant, offered a surprising amount of correction on softer paint, but durability is lacking. I really liked it but knew it wouldn't do much on hard German paint. We've had a couple reviews here, but without an idea of the hardness of the paint or rough idea of the level of cut the product offers, I'm not sure how well it would work for me in some circumstances.

 

[Craig Encinitas]

I am working on a horse trailer this week. It’s 17 years old and has never been detailed (polished or waxed), and has rarely been washed.

Being that it’s white, my before and after photos won’t translate that well. There is plenty of oxidation and some swirling on it. I have a fresh tube of Z1 that I can will try out.

But my fair warning, as stated above...
It’s white! I’m having a hard time seeing what’s happening, but it certainly passes the feel test. I’ve been using P&S Playmaker AIO and a 15mm DA.

Also, this is a courtesy detail and practice for myself. So no fancy lighting or extra measures. But I’m happy give the Z1 some work.

 

[98CayenneTA]

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

I am working on a horse trailer this week. It’s 17 years old and has never been detailed (polished or waxed), and has rarely been washed.

17 years of neglect will test any AIO.

Being that it’s white, my before and after photos won’t translate that well. There is plenty of oxidation and some swirling on it. I have a fresh tube of Z1 that I can will try out.

But my fair warning, as stated above... It’s white!

I completely understand what you're saying and for this same exact reason and even MORE reasons - this is why I will not use white boats in my boat detailing classes.

The students cannot EASILY see the before and after difference so there is NO IMPACT on them. At least not enough to go,

Wow!


Also - it's really hard to easily capture dramatic before and after differences via pictures and video when working on white and light colors. This is why I do my best to only bring in DARK colored gel-coat boats that have turned white from oxidation and neglect.


Looking forward to your results. Also - I recently used the P&S Playmaker, I have a review for it here on the forum and found it to be a capable product.

 

[Desertnate]

[/IMG]

Great results. Thanks! How hard was the paint? Body shop paint jobs I've encountered seem to be pretty soft.