1967 Camaro.

[57Rambler]

Found it !

For '67, the RPO code was P02. Same part was carried over for '68 & '69 Camaro under RPO code N95.


Wonder if these wheel covers protect against the SARS-CoV-2 virus ? :bolt:

 

[2black1s]

My next project within next couple weeks.

This is a 31,000 miles barn find. All original from South Carolina.

Been garaged since 1986/87!

Current thoughts as of now, subject to change, is to perform the following:

1. Combination of waterless and rinse less wash.

2. Go straight to Blackfire One Step with CBEAST and Rupes yellow pads.

As of now, probably won’t be doing the megs #7. But will see once I clean and test paint. My gut says it’s that hard single stage enamel paint.

Tom. View attachment 72319




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If it's truly original, then the paint is acrylic lacquer, as are all of GMs cars of that era.

As for the wheel covers, I hope you're getting paid enough. Those could become a nightmare and are more likely candidates for "restoration" than they are for "detailing". It all boils down to expectations.

 

[Coatingsarecrack]

Subscribed...... wonderful barn find!


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[TMQ]

Thanks 2black1s....

Saw that in the attachment that 57Rambler posted.

I suspect its a repaint...
Some overspray onto driver's side fender wells.
Driver's side 327 emblem has touch of white on its edges.
I'm guessing enamel...

Question--Is acrylic lacquer on the hard side?

Tom

 

[2black1s]

Thanks 2black1s....

Saw that in the attachment that 57Rambler posted.

I suspect its a repaint...
Some overspray onto driver's side fender wells.
Driver's side 327 emblem has touch of white on its edges.
I'm guessing enamel...

Question--Is acrylic lacquer on the hard side?

Tom

In its day acrylic lacquer was harder than other paints from the time. It was also more brittle and lacked any meaningful flexibility. That's why lacquer checking, or micro cracks, are so common on old lacquer paint jobs. It's the hard, brittle nature and lack of flexibility that is the root cause of the cracks.

As compared to the hardness of today's paints, I really can't say for certain as its been a long, long time since I've worked with acrylic lacquer. Any assessment I'd give you now would be based on my recollection from years ago when I worked a lot with acrylic lacquer. It's been so long that my recollection could certainly be skewed.

Looking back to the heyday of lacquers, I'd have to say that its primary benefit over other paints was the ability to produce truly glass smooth finishes. To this day, if you wanted the most perfect finish on a custom paint job, I think lacquer should be in the discussion. I probably wouldn't choose it, but it should be part of the discussion.

Don't get me wrong, you can achieve a really nice finish with today's paints too, but the light-bodied or thin nature of lacquer helps.

Other than that, today's paints will outperform lacquer in just about every other way.

 

[TMQ]

Testing.

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[TMQ]

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[TMQ]

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[TMQ]

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[TMQ]

In its day acrylic lacquer was harder than other paints from the time. It was also more brittle and lacked any meaningful flexibility. That's why lacquer checking, or micro cracks, are so common on old lacquer paint jobs. It's the hard, brittle nature and lack of flexibility that is the root cause of the cracks.

As compared to the hardness of today's paints, I really can't say for certain as its been a long, long time since I've worked with acrylic lacquer. Any assessment I'd give you now would be based on my recollection from years ago when I worked a lot with acrylic lacquer. It's been so long that my recollection could certainly be skewed.

Looking back to the heyday of lacquers, I'd have to say that its primary benefit over other paints was the ability to produce truly glass smooth finishes. To this day, if you wanted the most perfect finish on a custom paint job, I think lacquer should be in the discussion. I probably wouldn't choose it, but it should be part of the discussion.

Don't get me wrong, you can achieve a really nice finish with today's paints too, but the light-bodied or thin nature of lacquer helps.

Other than that, today's paints will outperform lacquer in just about every other way.

2black1s,
Thank you so much for the info..! Really helps me.

Talked to Mario today re history of the car. It has been in accident and was repainted.

With that in mind---Checked the paint over and it appears that it might have been painted partly.
One side car seems different than the other side. Some areas has that antique lacquer paint checking that 2black1s just described above.

Will hop to it tmw! Need to have it done by Monday---owner is coming for a sit down to review options and a plan re the Camaro.

Tom

 

[Sizzle Chest]

OK, hammer time!!!

 

[Wknd Dtlr]

Will hop to it tmw! Need to have it done by Monday
Tom

Cool project and I'm sure you'll do an awesome job on it! Based on your pic, I'm assuming you found the CBeast and BF One Step strong enough to knock it out? I'm hearing good things about that CBeast.

 

[TMQ]

Cool project and I'm sure you'll do an awesome job on it! Based on your pic, I'm assuming you found the CBeast and BF One Step strong enough to knock it out? I'm hearing good things about that CBeast.

Hummm....I'll say borderline...

Might break out the BEAST, but will tread carefully.

Tom

 

[57Rambler]

If it's truly original, then the paint is acrylic lacquer, as are all of GMs cars of that era.

All Gen 1 F-Bodies built and painted at Norwood (well, actually next door at Fisher Body) were indeed acrylic lacquer (DuPont). However, that does not necessarily hold true for late Gen 1's built at Van Nuys. Due to CA regs, they did quite a bit of experimenting with paint there.

 

[98CayenneTA]

Hummm....I'll say borderline...

Might break out the BEAST, but will tread carefully.

Tom

Give it a try with BlackFire and a microfiber pad. I have had very good luck on laquer and one stepping with it finishing down very nice.

 

[TMQ]

Done! Took six hours.

Vacuumed everything and then did combo rinseless and waterless wash.

Hood and trunk-Blackfire One Step/CBEAST/Rupes yellow pads.

For the sides-switched to the beast and orange force hybrids.

Pictures:

Washed!

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[TMQ]

The convertible top stitches are dry rotted---Owner plans to replace the top.
I just went ahead to see how much dirt I could pull out of the top.
Did the vacuum, then wash. Third wash and cut was the Woolite, distilled water with Sonax brush!

Did not bother with cleaning wheels---They are going to replace them with new rims/tires.

The big take away from today....Embedded dirt!
Machine polishing removed the embedded dirt and restored gloss and color.

Tom

 

[PaulMys]

Awesome work, Tommy!! rops:

 

[TMQ]

Thanks PaulMys...!

Tom

 

[57Rambler]

The top stitches are dry rotted---Owner plans to replace the top.
I went ahead to see how much dirt I could pull out of the top.
Did the vacuum, wash. Best cut was the Woolite, distilled water with Sonax brush!

Did not bother with cleaning wheels---They are going to replace them with new rims/tires.

The big take away from today....Embedded dirt!
Machine polishing removed the embedded dirt and restored gloss and color.

Tom

She came out great Tom ! :dblthumb2:


Those wheel covers might be worth something, I wouldn't just toss them ...