*Suggestion for under hood LSP product*

I would spray Gyeon Wet Coat on the parts that's not plastic or rubber and rinse. Then I don't think that you can get Scholl Boost. But that I mist over the rest and leave for 20 minutes and then the leafblower to dry it. Scholl Boost is just restoring it to a new look which I personally like. And also you can use use it on the rubber matts and even the pedals as it don't get slick. You can leave it after sprayed on wet under the hood as it's also self leveling. But I get waterspots on the painted surfaces. Don't know if you can spray on something like this that is like Hyper Dressing all over the engine compartment and leave it to self dry. Maybe it works too. But it's easy to use a spray and rinse product. And it's usually holds up very well in closed spaces.

Skickat från min SM-T736B via Tapatalk
 
Megs HD is another way to do it. Being water based it just will not last as long. HD is great for dressing plastic wheel wells also. The beauty of HD is that can be sprayed on a WET surface and just left alone to dry. It levels out and dries to a nice satin finish. NO WIPING OR TOUCHING. So after your engine is cleaned, you would just spray HD all over the engine bay and walk away. You don't have to dry the engine before using it. I used it 4:1 when i was doing wheel wells and engines. And being WB, it is SAFE for all under hood areas. Switched to Sonus for better durability.
 
Tasmania said:
Once a week on thd old man's ute, but i vacuum the engine bay call me CRAZY i am but nothing beats the feeling when the post man catches you in the process and says What the hell are you doing?
Click to expand...

You’re not the only one.

173de415805b9348e0315fc30fff54e9.jpg



pro 4x said:
Megs HD is another way to do it. Being water based it just will not last as long. HD is great for dressing plastic wheel wells also. The beauty of HD is that can be sprayed on a WET surface and just left alone to dry. It levels out and dries to a nice satin finish. NO WIPING OR TOUCHING. So after your engine is cleaned, you would just spray HD all over the engine bay and walk away. You don't have to dry the engine before using it. I used it 4:1 when i was doing wheel wells and engines. And being WB, it is SAFE for all under hood areas. Switched to Sonus for better durability.
Click to expand...

Try it at 1:1 and it lasts a very long time under the hood.
 
Tasmania said:
...i vacuum the engine bay call me CRAZY...
Click to expand...

ERRR...UMMM... I'd be careful with an electric vacuum around any part of a car that could have volatile evaporates escaping from them (ie. engine gas lines) as the vacuum will suction up those gases and then the electric motor can easily ignite that gas creating a loud bang that could cause spontaneous deification in your boardshorts(cause he’s in Australia Im the MAN) creating a bigger mess than when you started. :wowwow:
 
Griots makes great products but I am not a fan of any aerosol. I personally like 303 for engine bay treatment.
 
After reading this thread I tried 2:1 303 on a customers engine bay using a spray bottle.

Turned out great, but the mistake I made was not applying it immediately after cleaning the bay.

On jobs where the engine is to be done, it’s always done first, before the wash. Well, after cleaning the engine I normally let the vehicle idle while I blow it dry, then close the hood and allow the engine heat to dry it completely while I get things ready for the wash. I then turn the engine off, perform the wash, and apply trim shine with a flag tip brush.

Instead I sprayed 303 on engine after having done the wash and had some over spray to clean up. Minor mistake. Great results, though.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Eric7810 said:
After reading this thread I tried 2:1 303 on a customers engine bay using a spray bottle.

Turned out great, but the mistake I made was not applying it immediately after cleaning the bay.

On jobs where the engine is to be done, it’s always done first, before the wash. Well, after cleaning the engine I normally let the vehicle idle while I blow it dry, then close the hood and allow the engine heat to dry it completely while I get things ready for the wash. I then turn the engine off, perform the wash, and apply trim shine with a flag tip brush.

Instead I sprayed 303 on engine after having done the wash and had some over spray to clean up. Minor mistake. Great results, though.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

That happens to me sometimes except it’s usually with the doorjambs. I’ll be done with the wash & dry then suddenly remember that I wanted to do the doorjambs 1st because they required using the hose nozzle.

I’m like damn why didn’t I remember?! Lol
 
Eldorado2k said:
That happens to me sometimes except it’s usually with the doorjambs. I’ll be done with the wash & dry then suddenly remember that I wanted to do the doorjambs 1st because they required using the hose nozzle.

I’m like damn why didn’t I remember?! Lol
Click to expand...

Story of my life, man.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Silly Rabbit said:
What about Koch Chemie Motorplast?? Anyone use that??
Click to expand...

This gets great reviews. I didn't realize they also have a coating too. The Motorplast is apparently excellent and offers high temperature protection and anti-corrosive properties.

Adam's Graphene VRT also looks good.
 
CleanIT said:
This gets great reviews. I didn't realize they also have a coating too. The Motorplast is apparently excellent and offers high temperature protection and anti-corrosive properties.

Adam's Graphene VRT also looks good.
Click to expand...

I used it this summer on a few vehicles, I really really like it. So easy and looks great! Also holds up a long time, months later still looks good.
 
Silly Rabbit said:
I used it this summer on a few vehicles, I really really like it. So easy and looks great! Also holds up a long time, months later still looks good.
Click to expand...

Nice, I was curious if you ended up using it. Do you think it holds up better than a normal detailer/plastic protection type product? I watched a few reviews and all were impressed with it. It can handle temps up to 250C.

I've tried many products in the engine bay (303, LSP's, Hyper Dressing, Sonus Motorkote) in the engine but the thing is, the engine is going to get dirty regardless and you still have to wash it down again.
 
CleanIT said:
Nice, I was curious if you ended up using it. Do you think it holds up better than a normal detailer/plastic protection type product? I watched a few reviews and all were impressed with it. It can handle temps up to 250C.

I've tried many products in the engine bay (303, LSP's, Hyper Dressing, Sonus Motorkote) in the engine but the thing is, the engine is going to get dirty regardless and you still have to wash it down again.
Click to expand...

I feel it holds up really well. I would say better than a trim type spray like the Megs, and I am a Megs guy. It also leaves a good bond, so cleaning down the line seems easier too. When this bottle is done, I will be buying another one, I really like it alot.
 
I was keen to give Motorplast a try after a lot of positive feedback. For while, this had been sold out across Australia, so it took me a long time to get a bottle.

Like Hyper Dressing, Motorplast is applied to a wet surface and left to dry.







My first usage was on my plastic laden Mustang engine bay. It's also had a few applications on customer cars.





For me, Motorplast is a good product but somehow, I prefer good old Hyper Dressing. On the Mustang, the final finish was a touch on the glossier/oilier side. I find myself grabbing Hyper Dressing by default, it just looks more natural.





I'm not ashamed to admit that I'm a brand snob, but this is a case where the humble product outperformes the posh product.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top