From "stay tuned" to T U N E D !!

The mid-pipe from Stillen is being installed...RIGHT NOW, stay "tuned"

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Re: From "stay tuned" to T U N E D !!

So the install went great, no issues as it's a straight forward process. I asked my buddy Marcin to meet me up there with his wife's Sorento so we could put the stock mid-pipe in the back and follow us home. To return the favor we took his wife's SUV to my touch-free wash to get it cleaned up

As far as the mid-pipe goes I couldn't be happier! My daughter Kendall LOVES how it sounds too️When in N mode the "cracks and pops" are amped up...and then some but not stupid. It seems a touch louder in NORMAL mode but just a tad and nothing crazy, looking forward to taking it on the freeway but I don't expect any droning sound.

This mid-pipe is a full 3" T304 and while it doesn't add perf I swear I feel a little more "pull". I do know this though, on the dyno, this mid-pipe, combined with their axle-back, made 17 whp and 39 wtq (277 to 294-HP...283 to 312 TQ) Since I've already got the mid-pipe I would only need their axle-back and it's under $1K with my discount and had CF tips and the previously mentioned gain in hp/tq.

Now IMO $1500 for 17 whp & 39 wtq is worth it, plus it still sounds like an N, just taken to 11. When will this be added...stay "tuned"

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A little "bump" in the road...I hope

So some of you probably remember the issue I had last July with the knock sensor, took 3 trips to get them to replace the knock sensor, that was then...fast forward to this past Tuesday, Jan 30th

I worked a long day that day and when I got off of work I washed the EN like I've been doing since the repair last July. This time the CEL took 3 miles to come on after the wash, not 300 feet like before

Once home I checked the code (1326) and cleared it, test drove the EN and it was fine...for the next 47 miles and 4 days. Today it came back on, WITHOUT using the carwash. The performance was fine these past couple days, just came out of nowhere...or did it

We dropped it off today and got it all checked in, also told them about the horn, its out again for the 2nd time since last winter. Funny thing is my buddy's EN is there with the same issue, his first 1326 code

They'll look at this Monday but the regular master mechanic just went on vacation, so hopefully the next man up figures it out. The knock sensors main job is to hear vibrations inside the engine, I just hope it passes the BCT (bearing clearance test). I don't beat on my car and actually change the oil early, like today for instance

The oil was 5 monthes old and about 2500 miles, so I had it changed out, Mobil 1 0w30 and Wix filter

So hopefully I hear something sooner than later, I'm pretty bummed out to be honest and feel like giving up and getting a "missionary position" car and joining the non-car guy world 🫣

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Don’t do that…. You’d die a little inside everyday…. But I get the frustration.


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Coatingsarecrack said:
Don’t do that…. You’d die a little inside everyday…. But I get the frustration.


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I appreciate what your saying here and there's NO DOUBT I would! The thing is when your driving a car that's "fixed" and everytime you leave a carwash and it's in your head, THAT is a problem! The one yesterday though, no carwash and it came on. I'm afraid of what happens the 3rd time...

I love this car, look back at everytime I walk away, can't wait to get in it everyday and just how it makes me feel

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Best of luck, dislike hearing the issues.


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It sucks when you lose confidence in the reliability of your car, especially one that's special to you. My pet hate is smelling coolant after you've been driving. I've had a couple of vehicles that leaked over the years, but the Crewman Cross 8 was the one that almost got me. I was a day or two into a 2 week driving holiday when I started to smell leaking coolant, but everyday I checked and the level was fine, but I could definitely smell it. It wasn't till a week after I got back that it actually started dripping and had to be topped up. I did over 6500km on that trip and the coolant smell was there the whole time. I never did find out where it was leaking from, sold it a month or two after I got back, with some of that radiator fix it stuff poured in it. I bought something nice, but boring, and saved up till I could get myself into an FJ, the one that makes me smile every time I drive it, and turn around to "check it out" as I walk away.

Hang in there Roger, you'll get it figured out.

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Thank Dave, wish I could afford an Acura Integra typeS

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Very nice, I've been seeing stories pop up about the new Integra, if it does make it over here it will be badged as a Honda, the Acura brand never made it here.

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Is your friend's car tuned as well? I wonder if that is a common denominator.

Just a thought, but do you know a total gearhead in your area from a forum or FB group who could do a little datalogging on your car? I've been pretty amazed by some conversations I've followed where guys with strange car issues were able to pinpoint the problem by datalogging and then going through all the read-outs. It might show something the dealer would never find.

Also, have you looked into lemon laws? Since you've tuned the car, it might make it nearly impossible to do, but it might be another option to consider.

Klasse Act said:
So hopefully I hear something sooner than later, I'm pretty bummed out to be honest and feel like giving up and getting a "missionary position" car and joining the non-car guy world ��

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Coatingsarecrack said:
Don’t do that…. You’d die a little inside everyday…. But I get the frustration.
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Yeah, that's never an option. Why make yourself even more miserable for a very long time. People accept mediocracy because its the easy thing to do and then wonder why they are unhappy. There are plenty of options out there in all different shapes, sizes and price points if you end up having to shed the car. Don't be afraid to look at something you'd never have considered before.

When my 435 developed an unheard of rare, VERY expensive, mechanical issue forced me to get rid of the car, I was crushed. I'd been a fan of BMW's for 30+ years and loved driving them. However, the situation led me to look at everything fun on the the market, new and used. In the past I would never have considered the BRZ, but I'm so glad I did. I could have very easily picked up another GTI, had fun, and been perfectly happy. I also would have totally missed out on an amazing experience in a truly remarkable car.

I think if my BRZ was unexpectedly taken from me right now, I'd be looking at previous gen Civic Type R's. Sure they're a bit juvenile looking, but I don't care. It's an amazing car and life is just too short not to have fun every time you get the chance. The new Type S would be a good one or even an Audi RS3, but both are pretty rare, and expensive due to initial price point, dealer mark-ups....or both.
 
The steering began to fail down in the gears of actual rack itself. Unfortunately in the F30 generation, the entire steering system is one unit, from the column down to the rack, the electric pump, and out to the tie-rods, so it couldn't be torn down any further. I noticed it as an odd noise coming from the column when going into and out of steering lock in both directions (pulling out of parking places, driveways, etc). The local dealer had to take a test drive with a set of chassis ears to nail down the exact source of the noises. They traced it all the way down to the gears in the rack.

That dealer, nor the one I bought the car from, nor a respectable indy BMW shop in town had ever heard of it failing like that nor had ever had to swap one our on an F30 for that reason. I didn't find anything doing some searches on the topic either. All agreed it was the early signs of rack failure. The steering assembly at the time was at least $4K for just the steering assembly and the labor would have been through the roof.

Looking back I did notice the steering had started to feel a bit sloppier in normal mode and even not great in sport and sport+. It wasn't the normal lack of feedback people complain about, but an actual lack of accuracy/precision. I can't help but wonder if it was all related.
 
So the verdict is in:



Dealership ordered an ECU

They called their techline and were told to replace the ECU. Now the onboard diagnostics said ECU but my code reader said 1326 (knock sensor), it also had the same symptoms as well, which is why I didn't swap out my $1100 tuned ECU, so it's going with them. Not sure what they do with an old ECU that's deemed "bad", maybe recycled. Had I thought the ECU was bad I would've had it swapped out, 3 bolts and unplug it...that's it

Not sure how long it's going to take to get this part but atleast I've got a rental this time, had 19 miles on. This 2024 Kona N-line is pretty well loaded, about $3K cheaper than my car was when new

Only time will tell if THIS fixes it, along with a couple carwashes...stay "tuned"

***side note***

My tuner offered to tune my spare ECU, the one that came with the car, for free, so I guess I'm not out $1100 afterall...IF I decide to do this again. The tuner thinks it's the knock sensor and/or the wiring
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Good to hear you may have a resolution. Way back in the mid 90s my VN Commodore came up with a check engine light, and was idling rough, when the mechanic plugged in his machine he said it's either a coolant temperature sensor or the ECU. Apparently it always says it's this or that sensor or the ECU. But they always replace whatever sensor first, it's cheaper, if that doesn't work they replace the ECU. I had my fingers crossed it was the sensor, I didn't want to pay $350 for a new ECU, relatively cheap when I look back now.

Someone in my neighbourhood drives a new Kona, very distinctive with the LED strip across the front, I like the look.

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Thanks Dave and yes, this N-line Kona is even better

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Klasse Act said:
They called their techline and were told to replace the ECU. Now the onboard diagnostics said ECU but my code reader said 1326 (knock sensor), it also had the same symptoms as well, which is why I didn't swap out my $1100 tuned ECU, so it's going with them. Not sure what they do with an old ECU that's deemed "bad", maybe recycled. Had I thought the ECU was bad I would've had it swapped out, 3 bolts and unplug it...that's it
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So you never installed the tuned ECU or you did and Hyundia is sending back the bad ECU with your tune loaded it? I'm really happy for you, but also surprised if they are taking the tuned ECU. Many automakers can detect the tune and won't touch an ECU that's been altered.

The bad ECU will likely end up on the desk of some engineer in Seoul who will run a few diagnostics on it to document where it failed and then chuck it in a bin to be recycled. If the ECU is actually bad and failed a diagnostics test, I wouldn't trust any codes it would throw. If the brain if fritzing out, there it no telling what it might say.

I'm glad they put you in a nice loaner. I really liked the Kona N from the previous generation. The snorty engine, lower/stiffer suspension, and DCT put it almost in hot hatch territory. Hopefully they'll bring it out again with this generation.
 
I don't think they scanned it honestly, the bluelink said bad ecu but my scan tool said 1326, which is why I didn't swap out ecu's but like I said my tuner will flash my new one for free...I'm on the fence about it right now

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Does your tuner's offer expire at some point? If not, I'd wait quite a while to make sure the new OEM ECU is working right.

It's a long shot, but flashing the ECU might have caused the problem. I remember years ago when looking at flashing my GTI, there was a period of time when a couple tuners had occasional issues with the ECU's having hardware issues with the flashing process. These were very respectable tuners who had been in the business for a long time. Their software was sound and safely delivered the promised results. However, on a rare occasion the actual process of flashing somehow damaged the ECU. In minor cases, the cars had running issues. In the most extreme cases it bricked the the ECU totally. You may have just got unlucky.
 
Desertnate said:
Does your tuner's offer expire at some point? If not, I'd wait quite a while to make sure the new OEM ECU is working right.

It's a long shot, but flashing the ECU might have caused the problem. I remember years ago when looking at flashing my GTI, there was a period of time when a couple tuners had occasional issues with the ECU's having hardware issues with the flashing process. These were very respectable tuners who had been in the business for a long time. Their software was sound and safely delivered the promised results. However, on a rare occasion the actual process of flashing somehow damaged the ECU. In minor cases, the cars had running issues. In the most extreme cases it bricked the the ECU totally. You may have just got unlucky.
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Let me ask you this because I don't know. When I first got the tune, which was installed on a new ecu, the power was incredible. Then over time I either "got used to it" or it "flattened out", then the issue on the dyno in Dec and now this...can it deteriate over time?....or would it rear it's head right away

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