Headlight Restoration-new UV sealant idea
- Thread starter HotRod
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Mitsuman95......How did the Beemer come out? lol Feed back please
Headlight 911!
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Using a drill adapter and going from 800-1000-1500-3000-meg 105-plastx I'm still getting TONS of sanding swirls.
Is this because I'm going from the 1500 straight to a 3000 trizact disc? Should I be using a 2000 or 2500 in between? Or could it be the drill adapter? I wetsand with all and don't use heavy pressure. I feel like I shouldn't see sanding swirls.
Any ideas?
Is this because I'm going from the 1500 straight to a 3000 trizact disc? Should I be using a 2000 or 2500 in between? Or could it be the drill adapter? I wetsand with all and don't use heavy pressure. I feel like I shouldn't see sanding swirls.
Any ideas?
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See below...
I've changed my methods and do most of mine by hand now (especially when it goes to a point) Try 800, 1000, 1500 and then drill with 3000 3m Trizact. Then apply new coating of your choice. Sand everything wet and horizontally. Or use the drill with 800 to get rid of the worst stuff and then switch to 800 hand procedure.
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Another thing that I've noticed recently is that it seems some makes/models are more prone to have the swirl marks. I don't know if it is the compounds used in the particular composites used in the lenses or what.....but I have noticed some certainly are more prone to swirls and scratches from sanding. (wet or otherwise.)
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I am curious if waxing them would help...? Just curious, I've had a few that have developed streaks and haven't had a chance to try the wax on em yet.
Waxing does provide a barrier against the UV rays, so it should help. The reality is that if you do not maintain the car for the customer, they may not be waxing the headlights, therefore no additional protection is being applied.
I've found that waxing, unless done carefully, could abrade the glossy surface of the spar urethane. Some waxes have abrasives in them and some have volatile mineral spirits in their formula; the mineral spirits can soften the spar urethane and degrade the surface.
Helljumper09
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I too have noticed one failure of the urethane on a PT Cruiser I worked on for my Aunt. Exactly one year later it has started to fail. I am wondering if it is the urethane or the plastic underneath?
I have restored headlights and they lasted longer than 1 year with only a sealant applied, no urethane. If a high quality sealant lasts just as long, there is no point in applying the urethane in my opinion.
We have to keep in mind the spar urethane was not created to protect plastic headlights, it's for wood. In addition, it is being thinned with mineral spirits, therefore very little of it actually remains on the headlights, most of it will be evaporated.
With the release of products such as Opti Coat 2.0 which are PERMANENT and easier to apply than the spar urethane mix, there should be no reason for anyone to apply the spar urethane to headlights anymore.
I am now offering the option to my clients. If they would like to have some permanent protection, I charge a little extra. If they are planning on selling the car, they usually don't want to spend the extra money and go with the sealant only, however I warn them the headlights may start to become hazy again in 1-2 years.
We have to keep in mind the spar urethane was not created to protect plastic headlights, it's for wood. In addition, it is being thinned with mineral spirits, therefore very little of it actually remains on the headlights, most of it will be evaporated.
With the release of products such as Opti Coat 2.0 which are PERMANENT and easier to apply than the spar urethane mix, there should be no reason for anyone to apply the spar urethane to headlights anymore.
I am now offering the option to my clients. If they would like to have some permanent protection, I charge a little extra. If they are planning on selling the car, they usually don't want to spend the extra money and go with the sealant only, however I warn them the headlights may start to become hazy again in 1-2 years.
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I've asked people who have used it in the past but......How hard is the Opti-coat to apply? I read the instructions another forum member displayed and the process looked quite lengthy and sorta complicated to me. I've also ordered a can of the 1K spray. How does that compare?
I have not yet used the Opti Coat myself, however I will be ordering it very soon and testing on a scrap headlight so that I can offer it to my customers. The process is not complicated at all, you wipe down the headlight with IPA to remove polishing oils or any dirt and then wipe on the Opti Coat with the applicator pad.
1K is a single component clear coat, what you want is a 2K clear coat. The way it works is that the 1K is sprayed on and will air dry. The 2K is actually 2 components, the actual clear coat and the second component which is an activator. When both products are mixed together, there is a chemical reaction that takes place and makes it harden, it is much more durable. When a car is painted, they use 2K clear coats.
I have sprayed 2K clear coat recently on some headlights, they were done about 2 months ago, however it should last a very long time.
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I read in another forum that people were using the 1K alone on the headlights. They did mention that the 2K was available and that they sometimes used that but that once mixed, the rest of the can needed to be sprayed within 24 hours or it would harden. I don't do headlights for a living.....just on weekends for some extra cash.....so the 2K wouldn't fit my needs very well.
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What method of sanding and clearcote/sealer do you use? How long does it last?
hi all,
it's been an year and I have to re do my headlights :-(
this is how it looks after one year
View attachment 9155
this is how it was right after application the last year
View attachment 9156
I already wet sanded and need to buy PlastX to polish
should I continue use this sealant method for another year or try Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0
but for $60. it's kind of expensive - isn't it?
any one can compare this method vs Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0?
tnx
I did my sister's 1996 Nissan Quest today. The top half of the headlight lenses had clouded up (they've been polished before but deteriorated rapidly).
I went the hand-sanding route, with 600, then 1000, then 2000, then an application of truck-box polish. Degreased the headlights, then applied the spar urethane. That whole process took about 15 minutes per headlight. After they sat for about 30 minutes with the headlights on to speed setup of the first coat of urethane, I let them cool down in the shade (ambient temp about 65°F), and applied a second coat. Once it self-leveled and set up, the results looked perfect. This car seldom gets washed; it spends its daytimes parked outdoors, but is garaged overnight. I'll keep an occasional eye on it.
I went the hand-sanding route, with 600, then 1000, then 2000, then an application of truck-box polish. Degreased the headlights, then applied the spar urethane. That whole process took about 15 minutes per headlight. After they sat for about 30 minutes with the headlights on to speed setup of the first coat of urethane, I let them cool down in the shade (ambient temp about 65°F), and applied a second coat. Once it self-leveled and set up, the results looked perfect. This car seldom gets washed; it spends its daytimes parked outdoors, but is garaged overnight. I'll keep an occasional eye on it.
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Interesting......I've never tried 2 coats with the spar.