new to the forum, and I have a "newbie" question.

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01xtreme

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Ok, I've been gaining quite a bit of interest in detailing, and I happen to have a spare hood I want to practice with. My question is concerning some imperfections in the paint that I would like to know if it's possible to correct. I took a picture, and would like to know if I would be able to correct these by just buffing with compound, or if it would need more in-depth work to fix this...ok enough of me talking and now a pic. Thanks ahead of time for any help you can provide.

DSC_0076.jpg
 
Are you referring to the haze that is around the light. Maybe I am missing what you are referring to in the picture. Try taking a picture in a low light area with a halogen light pointed at the affected area..or just to the side of the light so that the area can be seen more clearly.



01xtreme said:
Ok, I've been gaining quite a bit of interest in detailing, and I happen to have a spare hood I want to practice with. My question is concerning some imperfections in the paint that I would like to know if it's possible to correct. I took a picture, and would like to know if I would be able to correct these by just buffing with compound, or if it would need more in-depth work to fix this...ok enough of me talking and now a pic. Thanks ahead of time for any help you can provide.

DSC_0076.jpg
Click to expand...
 
I downloaded and then cropped out the fluff in your photo and then placed it into your gallery here on AG

by the way, welcome to Autogeek Online! :welcome:

defectsinpaint08.jpg



Here's my best guesses... as to the defects in the picture,
  1. What looks like either orange peel but more like mottling
  2. Scratches, both light and deeper scratches
  3. What looks like it could be a water spot or etching but actually looks like a round area with flaked-off paint.
  4. And what looks like something sharp has dug into the paint in small, straight lines.
  • Compounding would remove the light scratches and maybe the deeper RIDS, which stands for Random Isolated Deeper Scratches.
  • For the mottling or orange peel, you would need to wet-sand by hand or machine.
  • For the places where it looks like something has dug into the paint these are probably to deep to remove safely.
  • And for the thing that is round and looks like paint flaking off in a circle, if this is paint that is flaking off, buffing on it or sanding on it will probably cause the flaked are to grow.
  • If the round defect is actually an spot or an etching then compound would likely fix or improve it as would sanding.
What is this component?
 
14automobiles said:
Are you referring to the haze that is around the light. Maybe I am missing what you are referring to in the picture. Try taking a picture in a low light area with a halogen light pointed at the affected area..or just to the side of the light so that the area can be seen more clearly.
Click to expand...

I was more referring to the blemishes that look like cracks in the paint.
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
I downloaded and then cropped out the fluff in your photo and then placed it into your gallery here on AG

by the way, welcome to Autogeek Online! :welcome:

defectsinpaint08.jpg



Here's my best guesses... as to the defects in the picture,
  1. What looks like either orange peel but more like mottling
  2. Scratches, both light and deeper scratches
  3. What looks like it could be a water spot or etching but actually looks like a round area with flaked-off paint.
  4. And what looks like something sharp has dug into the paint in small, straight lines.

  • Compounding would remove the light scratches and maybe the deeper RIDS, which stands for Random Isolated Deeper Scratches.

  • For the mottling or orange peel, you would need to wet-sand by hand or machine.

  • For the places where it looks like something has dug into the paint these are probably to deep to remove safely.

  • And for the thing that is round and looks like paint flaking off in a circle, if this is paint that is flaking off, buffing on it or sanding on it will probably cause the flaked are to grow.

  • If the round defect is actually an spot or an etching then compound would likely fix or improve it as would sanding.
What is this component?
Click to expand...

Thank you so much for the info, and adding the cropped picture to my gallery. This is a picture of an extra hood I have laying around my garage because I recently swapped the hood on my blazer. I figured I could work on this extra metal since I dont have any use for it, and would like to gain some kind of skills before I attempt anything on my actual truck.
 
01xtreme said:
I figured I could work on this extra metal since I dont have any use for it, and would like to gain some kind of skills before I attempt anything on my actual truck.
Click to expand...

Good idea... practice makes perfect.

Are you working by hand or do you have any electric polishers?

What do you have for chemicals, as in compounds, polishes, etc.


What year is your Blazer?


:)
 
It's a 2001 blazer extreme, victory red.
3943911435_c73be49678_b.jpg


I was given a harbor freight rotary polisher, so I figure I'll play around with that before I shell out the 200+ for a dewalt or makita unit.

As for chemicals and what not, I dont have anything as of yet. I was looking around, and it probably would have ended up being my next question.
 
Is the hood in the original picture or Mike's cropped version supposed to be Victory Red? If that was original to your Blazer, I can only imagine what the rest looks like! Good luck and keep us posted!
 
rwright said:
Is the hood in the original picture or Mike's cropped version supposed to be Victory Red? If that was original to your Blazer, I can only imagine what the rest looks like! Good luck and keep us posted!
Click to expand...

yeah, it's the same hood, and actually the same one in the pic of my blazer. I had a sonoma hood I shaved the hood squirters on that I swapped out. and Im working on getting my new airdam painted. I kind of let my truck slide when I was in orlando for college, so now Im suffering the consequences. The paint on the hood looks good from about 10-15 feet away, but it has quite a few nicks in it from driving almost all interstate, so I decided to get a new hood painted up and swapped out. Now that I have more time, Im wanting to take much better care of the truck, especially with all the money I've sunk into this thing.
 
Well said Mike.



Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
I downloaded and then cropped out the fluff in your photo and then placed it into your gallery here on AG

by the way, welcome to Autogeek Online! :welcome:

defectsinpaint08.jpg




Here's my best guesses... as to the defects in the picture,
  1. What looks like either orange peel but more like mottling
  2. Scratches, both light and deeper scratches
  3. What looks like it could be a water spot or etching but actually looks like a round area with flaked-off paint.
  4. And what looks like something sharp has dug into the paint in small, straight lines.
  • Compounding would remove the light scratches and maybe the deeper RIDS, which stands for Random Isolated Deeper Scratches.
  • For the mottling or orange peel, you would need to wet-sand by hand or machine.
  • For the places where it looks like something has dug into the paint these are probably to deep to remove safely.
  • And for the thing that is round and looks like paint flaking off in a circle, if this is paint that is flaking off, buffing on it or sanding on it will probably cause the flaked are to grow.
  • If the round defect is actually an spot or an etching then compound would likely fix or improve it as would sanding.
What is this component?
Click to expand...
 
What would you guys suggest as far as compounds, and pads for someone starting out? Unfortunately I only have the cheap harbor freight buffer I was given, but I plan to upgrade in the future (if I find out Im not completely inept when it comes to detailing) so I would like them to be quality components so I can use them on my good buffer when I eventually get it.
 
While not by any means cheap, I really like the way the 3M products work with a rotary myself. Of course, you can choose the Menzerna polishes that will also give you a good experience with rotary polishing.
Meguiar's also makes some rotary polishes.

It is all just whatever you decide. If you are wanting to stay as cost conscious as possible, then I would pick up the Meguiar's 105 Compound and the 205 polish. These will accomplish 90% of your work and you only have to buy 2 "polishes".

Pads are also going to be a big factor. There again, it is all personal preference. The Meg's (Meguiar's) pads are hard to beat on a rotary.

DLB
 
Cost is a concern, but I am willing to spend money on something that will allow me to achieve the results I'm looking for. I have no problem waiting a little longer to place my order, so long as the products I am ordering are worth it. I am definitely interested in the Menzerna polishes.

My question on pads is what size should I buy. I see 7" and 8" pads. Im looking at the Lake Country Kompressor pads, and at their 6 pack, so I was thinking 2 orange, 2 white a black and a red. I was also looking at a 6" back plate.


Back plate

Pads (2 orange, 2 white, black and red)

Menzerna Intro Kit, Menzerna polishes, Menzerna Final Polish, Intensive polish

Does this look like a decent "starter kit" for a poor college student? I already have my Mother's clay bar kit as well as their cleaner wax and pure carnuba wax.
 
01xtreme said:
I am definitely interested in the Menzerna polishes.
Click to expand...
If you want to go that route, then focus all your reading on what the best uses for the Menz polishes are. It can be very overwhelming for someone new to it to try and learn what all the different polishes can do and which would be best. Just find out what Menz polishes you want to try and go from there.

The SIP/FP kit you mentioned would likely be a good starting point. You would primarily use the Orange Pad with the SIP and the white pad with the FP. Now, that leaves you with the black and red pads you outlined. IMO, the red pad isn't really necessary for rotary polishers. I know that there are those who use it, but to me it is just not worth it usually. The black will be a great finessing pad for a product like Menzerna PO85rd. I would suggest the 7" pads - can fit in more places and are generally easier to use.

Looks like you are thinking on the right track.

DLB
 
01xtreme said:
Does this look like a decent "starter kit" for a poor college student?
Click to expand...

That's a good start for someone new to the rotary buffer.

The Kompressor pads are easy to control as they are very flexible.

The Intensive Polish is a medium cutting polish with a long play time, you can't get into too much trouble with it and it doesn't look like your Blazer needs a lot of correction work from the looks of it's overall appearance.

The hardest part for you will be to create a 100% swirl-free, or hologram free finish using ONLY a rotary buffer. It can be done but it usually requires,

  • The right pad
  • The right polish
  • Expert technique
  • A paint that is polishable
You can control the first 3 but not alwasy the last item and you really don't know until you do some testing and then inspect the paint in good lighting like bright sunlight.

If you really want to know the true results you would want to strip your test areas and then inspect in bright sunlight, for stripping any residues left by the polish you could wash with a detergent wash or wipe the paint really well using IPA, APC or MS

If it's not a concern to you then you could simple go to wax and any really shallow swirls will be masked by the Mother's Carnauba Wax.

Many online enthusasts are focused like laser beams on creating proof-positive swrirl-free results before applying a wax or sealant but that's a decision each person has to make for themselves.

One way to inusre a swirl free finish is to do what I always type out as,

Change the action of the tool


That is after the rotary buffers steps switch over to a tool that offers ocillating action instead of just rotating action, that could be any of the below taken from this thread,

How to choose the right polisher for your detailing project

Single Head - Random Orbital Polishers - Free Rotating Spindle Assemblies

Porter Cable 7424XP
4.5 AMP
500 Watt Motor
5 pounds
3 Year Limited Warranty - 1 Year Free Service - 90 Days Money Back


Griot's Garage Random Orbital Polisher
7.0 AMP
850 Watt Motor
5.5 pounds
Griot's Lifetime Warranty


Griot's Garage 3" Mini Polisher
2.0 AMP
240 Watt Motor
Griot's Lifetime Warranty


Meguiar's G110v2
4.2 AMP
430 Watt Motor
5 pounds
1 Year Limited Warranty


Dual Head - Random Orbital Polisher

Cyclo Polisher
1 Year Limited Warranty


Hybrid - Forced Rotation Random Orbital Polisher

Flex 3401 Forced Rotation Dual Action Polisher
7.5 Amps
590 Watts
6 Pounds
1 Year Limited Warranty


:)
 
Mr. Phillips...you, sir, are the man. Thank you, DLB and the other members who've posted, so much for the information. Now it just looks like I need to make an order and start practicing.
 
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