PR Wolfgang Finishing Glaze.

[Phinox]

Introduction:

I have been using products from 3M, Norton and the Megiuar twins of 205 and 105. I decided to try the Wolfgang FG based on forum feedback. The test Subject is the deck lid of my severely abused 1999 Mitsubishi Mirage.

Product Description: (Taken from the bottle)

Wolfgang Finishing Glaze is a pure polish that creates a high gloss wet look on all types of finishes. It contains mild diminishing abrasives that smooth and brighten the paint.
Nourishing oils wet the paint for a dazzling show car shine. Finishing glaze is clear coat safe and water based. It will not cause swirls or leave a powdery residue. This is the last step before applying a sealant.

Initial product observations:

1 Manufacture claims are true.
2 Packaging is a black plastic bottle with a flip top cap.
3 Directions are clear and concise.
4 Consistency is is a bit thicker then that of a hand lotion.
5 Color Gray.

Additional items used

Porter Cable 7336
White Lake country CSS pad
IPA
Norton blue painters tape
3M vinyl tape
Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover
Orange Lake country CSS Pad

Weather Conditions where 80 degrees with 80% humidity and overcast.

Here are some before pics of the test panel.

This is after one complete pass with Wolfgang Total Swirl remover.

And here is after the FG.

And a close up

I do not know if the photo's show the real difference between the before and after on the FG. but the difference is very easy to notice in person.
Pro's:
1 Long work time even in high temps and humidity
2 Very minimal dusting
3 Can be used as a single stage polish
4 Very versatile depending on the pad used
5 A little product goes a long way
6 User friendly as it will not create new swirls

Cons:
1 The only con i can say in the price for the size bottle you get but you only need to use a little product.

Conclusions Wolfgang FG is a Great product very user friendly and easier to use then some of the other offerings on the market. Very nice product that works extremely well.

This product combined with Wolfgang TSR make a great 1 2 combo that surpasses alot of other combo's out there. With its long work time and ease of use, causes minimal dusting and leaves the finish in show car condition. I would recommend this combo over the Meguiar Twins and over 3M.

 

[WRAPT C5Z06]

Introduction:

I have been using products from 3M, Norton and the Megiuar twins of 205 and 105. I decided to try the Wolfgang FG based on forum feedback. The test Subject is the deck lid of my severely abused 1999 Mitsubishi Mirage.

Product Description: (Taken from the bottle)

Wolfgang Finishing Glaze is a pure polish that creates a high gloss wet look on all types of finishes. It contains mild diminishing abrasives that smooth and brighten the paint.
Nourishing oils wet the paint for a dazzling show car shine. Finishing glaze is clear coat safe and water based. It will not cause swirls or leave a powdery residue. This is the last step before applying a sealant.

Initial product observations:

1 Manufacture claims are true.
2 Packaging is a black plastic bottle with a flip top cap.
3 Directions are clear and concise.
4 Consistency is is a bit thicker then that of a hand lotion.
5 Color Gray.

Additional items used

Porter Cable 7336
White Lake country CSS pad
IPA
Norton blue painters tape
3M vinyl tape
Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover
Orange Lake country CSS Pad

Weather Conditions where 80 degrees with 80% humidity and overcast.

Here are some before pics of the test panel.

This is after one complete pass with Wolfgang Total Swirl remover.

And here is after the FG.

And a close up

I do not know if the photo's show the real difference between the before and after on the FG. but the difference is very easy to notice in person.
Pro's:
1 Long work time even in high temps and humidity
2 Very minimal dusting
3 Can be used as a single stage polish
4 Very versatile depending on the pad used
5 A little product goes a long way
6 User friendly as it will not create new swirls

Cons:
1 The only con i can say in the price for the size bottle you get but you only need to use a little product.

Conclusions Wolfgang FG is a Great product very user friendly and easier to use then some of the other offerings on the market. Very nice product that works extremely well.

This product combined with Wolfgang TSR make a great 1 2 combo that surpasses alot of other combo's out there. With its long work time and ease of use, causes minimal dusting and leaves the finish in show car condition. I would recommend this combo over the Meguiar Twins and over 3M.

I just tried the WG Twins as well, and REALLY like them. However, WG TSR isn't a compound, therefore, will not correct heavy swirls and scratches. Still, if I have to use a compound, I'll follow up with orange/TSR and white/FG. If defects aren't toooooo bad, it's a great 1-2 punch!

 

[Phinox]

TSR will correct heavy scratches and swirls with the right pad. I removed 3000 grit sanding scratches with a PC 7336 and an orange pad. Mike Phillips has an article on how to remove 2500 grit scratches with TSR. With correcting ability like that is can remove heavy swirls and should be able to remove most RIDS

 

[WRAPT C5Z06]

TSR will correct heavy scratches and swirls with the right pad. I removed 3000 grit sanding scratches with a PC 7336 and an orange pad. Mike Phillips has an article on how to remove 2500 grit scratches with TSR. With correcting ability like that is can remove heavy swirls and should be able to remove most RIDS

My point being, TSR cannot remove defects like M105 can. Will TSR remove 1200 grit sanding marks? I guess it really depends on one's definition of "heavy defects".

 

[Phinox]

The PC 7336 is a Dual action sander/polisher.
I agree Megs 105 is stronger and will cut quicker then TSR but in most cases 105 is overkill.

 

[ASPHALT ROCKET]

The PC 7336 is a Dual action sander/polisher.
I agree Megs 105 is stronger and will cut quicker then TSR but in most cases 105 is overkill.

Boy is that an incorrect statement as well as your one above this. The only correct thing said is that the 7336 is a da.

 

[WRAPT C5Z06]

Boy is that an incorrect statement as well as your one above this.

:iagree:

 

[lyzing]

You guys think that M105 is needed in most cases?

105 is a pretty darn strong compound and cuts really fast. I would agree with Phinox that in most cases M105 IS overkill. Your clearcoat is a precious thing, you don't have a whole lot of it, and I wouldn't go around throwing aggressive cutting compounds at it all willy-nilly unless it is REALLY needed.

What I do not agree with Phinox about however, is that TSR and WFG are an ideal replacement for 105/205. They are not interchangeable products in my opinion and each have their own place in the market.

 

[kb2ehj]

You guys think that M105 is needed in most cases?

Your clearcoat is a precious thing, you don't have a whole lot of it, and I wouldn't go around throwing aggressive cutting compounds at it all willy-nilly unless it is REALLY needed.

Hence the famous saying.......use the least aggressive product/pad combination to get the job done.

 

[lyzing]

Hence the famous saying.......use the least aggressive product/pad combination to get the job done.

Thats exactly what I'm saying, I don't understand what Z-06 and ASPHALT ROCKET are disagreeing with.

 

[longdx]

I had that same vehicle and color. It is actually a single-stage red (Phoenix red). I was able to do swirl correction with a milder polish 99% of the time. I do agree that the least aggressive method for correction is the best course of action (whether it is ss or bc/cc paint)

 

[CEE DOG]

They are just saying that with 105 you can stop at any point so as soon as you have removed the defect you can stop so it's only as aggresive as you tell it to be.

 

[WRAPT C5Z06]

They are just saying that with 105 you can stop at any point so as soon as you have removed the defect you can stop so it's only as aggresive as you tell it to be.

This is where I think diminishing abrasives are better for a beginner. You can't "overcut" with them. You'll only cut as much as the abrasives will allow as the break down into finer abrasives. I still don't think M105 is overkill, but with non-diminishing abrasives, you get the same cut from start to finish, therefore, you should know when to stop. This would be a case for the more experienced, IMO. :xyxthumbs:

 

[lyzing]

This is where I think diminishing abrasives are better for a beginner. You can't "overcut" with them. You'll only cut as much as the abrasives will allow as the break down into finer abrasives. I still don't think M105 is overkill, but with non-diminishing abrasives, you get the same cut from start to finish, therefore, you should know when to stop. This would be a case for the more experienced, IMO. :xyxthumbs:

You can still ruin clear with a pad alone, though. If you use a DAT polish on an orange pad for example and continue to go past the point where the abrasives are broken down but the lubricants in the polish are still leaving trails (to appear like the polish is still there), you could be still removing clear with only the pad and not even know that the polish is done working. I don't think that DAT is any more Newb-Friendly than SMAT, really. The only way to really know what you're doing to the paint is if youre using a paint thickness gauge, a pretty expensive tool which most of us who aren't doing this for a living, do not have nor can we justify buying.

 

[WRAPT C5Z06]

You can still ruin clear with a pad alone, though. If you use a DAT polish on an orange pad for example and continue to go past the point where the abrasives are broken down but the lubricants in the polish are still leaving trails (to appear like the polish is still there), you could be still removing clear with only the pad and not even know that the polish is done working. I don't think that DAT is any more Newb-Friendly than SMAT, really.

As long as you do a finger swipe test and the polish is still "wet" on the surface, there's lubricants still coating the surface, therefore, you will not be dry buffing with the pad alone. If the polish dries, yes, there's a good chance you're dry buffing.

 

[lyzing]

As long as you do a finger swipe test and the polish is still "wet" on the surface, there's lubricants still coating the surface, therefore, you will not be dry buffing with the pad alone. If the polish dries, yes, there's a good chance you're dry buffing.

Use a cutting pad with only ONR (to simulate lubricant) on some single stage paint and you will still see paint transfer, just because you cant see the clear coming off doesn't mean its not happening.

 

[WRAPT C5Z06]

Use a cutting pad with only ONR (to simulate lubricant) on some single stage paint and you will still see paint transfer, just because you cant see the clear coming off doesn't mean its not happening.

You're missing the point. You cannot compare ONR lubrication with polishing oils lubrication. oke:I'm not saying if there's polishing oils on the surface, you're not removing clear. That's the whole idea behind polishing, removing small amounts of clear to level the surface. My point is, as long as there's still lubrication on the surface, that's much better than buffing with no lubrication.

 

[lyzing]

You're missing the point. You cannot compare ONR lubrication with polishing oils lubrication. oke:I'm not saying if there's polishing oils on the surface, you're not removing clear. That's the whole idea behind polishing, removing small amounts of clear to level the surface. My point is, as long as there's still lubrication on the surface, that's much better than buffing with no lubrication.

Then why are you comparing dry buffing to removing clear? I was strictly talking about removing clear. It's OK man, just keep changing the topic ever so slightly.. your post count is rising if that's your goal here. You were wrong. P.S. your post count on an internet forum does not equal real life experience.

 

[WRAPT C5Z06]

Then why are you comparing dry buffing to removing clear?

You can still ruin clear with a pad alone, though.

:nomore:

 

[lyzing]

:nomore:

:bash:
If you read that whole post you'll see that I said

THE LUBRICANTS IN THE POLISH ARE STILL THERE--BUT THE ABRASIVES HAVE BROKEN DOWN

"go past the point where the abrasives are broken down but the lubricants in the polish are still leaving trails"

CONTINUE TO CHOP UP BITS AND PIECES OF MY POSTS AS YOU SEE FIT, THOUGH, BECAUSE YOU'RE RIGHT!!!!!

I never said anything about dry buffing.

Stop being such a hot head. I surrender though, this never even been an argument in the first place. Think I'll just move on over to Autopia where the forum isn't a huge circlejerk based on post count. Im the MAN later