Meg UC and Orange CCS not cutting it- what to use?

[archer28]

I'm buffing my car for the first time. Just got in the griots da with a 5" backing plate and an assortment of 5" CCS pads.
Also have #205, and Meg UC
Everything is working great, I'm just not getting out the larger scratches.
Do I need some #105?

I thought the UC had more cut I guess.

 

[rider9195]

Those larger scratches are probably RIDS. Random Isolated Deeper Scratches. There isn't much you can do about them especially on a daily driver, to risky to try to remove them at times. As long as the swirls are removed and the paint looks good, I would leave it at that.

Sometimes you just have to live this the deeper defects.

 

[Buckskincolt]

I'm buffing my car for the first time. Just got in the griots da with a 5" backing plate and an assortment of 5" CCS pads.
Also have #205, and Meg UC
Everything is working great, I'm just not getting out the larger scratches.
Do I need some #105?

I thought the UC had more cut I guess.

That depends on what you are calling larger scratches? Pictures would help, can you hook a fingernail in the scratches you are talking about?

 

[archer28]

That depends on what you are calling larger scratches? Pictures would help, can you hook a fingernail in the scratches you are talking about?

No I can't feel it with a fingernail. The combo I'm using right now is taking out the very fine swirls, but there are a few leftovers that (as rider mentioned) I'll probably have to live with.

I had a pretty bad hood scratch that I wetsanded and rotary buffed. Its still barely visible in the right light and I was hoping that the DA would "blend" it a little more.

I think when I get some sealant and wax on top, the problems I'm seeing might be a little less evident.

I just wondered if a more aggressive compound might lessen the visibility of the scratches more than the UC.

Trying to get too many scratches out I guess!

 

[WRAPT C5Z06]

The orange pad doesn't cut as much as people think. UC is a mild compound. Pick up some MF cutting pads and start out with UC. If that doesn't cut it, try M105.

 

[archer28]

Thanks Karl. I do have a makita rotary on loan from the trade school where I teach, along with some 3m rubbing compound and a grey 3m pad (the one with the quick connect in the center). That was what I used to take out the majority of the large scratch on the hood.
I could have probably gotten it out more but I was afraid of sanding through the clear (and it was 95 out!).

The rotary left some swirls that are gone after the DA. I'm just too chicken to sand much more.

Everybody says it looks great so I guess I need to quit sweating every little thing.

 

[bmwgalore]

Thanks Karl. I do have a makita rotary on loan from the trade school where I teach, along with some 3m rubbing compound and a grey 3m pad (the one with the quick connect in the center). That was what I used to take out the majority of the large scratch on the hood.
I could have probably gotten it out more but I was afraid of sanding through the clear (and it was 95 out!).

The rotary left some swirls that are gone after the DA. I'm just too chicken to sand much more.

Everybody says it looks great so I guess I need to quit sweating every little thing.

For the scratches you couldn't get remove, try some filling glaze and a coat of sealant or wax over it... Poorboys Black Hole for (dark colors) or Poorboys White diamond (light colors) are 2 great glazes.

 

[mwoolfso]

I would go with a Yellow pad and UC and see how that works out for you. If not then Yellow w/ M105 would be the next level of cut. After that, Surbuf with M105.

 

[HellDemon]

Unfortunately I don't use CCS pads, but I do use the hydrotechs and UC. Blue HT + UC removes all scratches except for RIDS using speed 6 on my 7424xp, even on harder clears (though haven't tried ceramic)

 

[WRAPT C5Z06]

I would go with a Yellow pad and UC and see how that works out for you. If not then Yellow w/ M105 would be the next level of cut. After that, Surbuf with M105.

Yellow pads finish horribly. There's much better options that have good cut and finish better.

 

[mwoolfso]

Yep, using a yellow pad will require a "finishing pass".

 

[WRAPT C5Z06]

Yep, using a yellow pad will require a "finishing pass".

Sometimes a polish and finishing step.

 

[glen e]

Everybody says it looks great so I guess I need to quit sweating every little thing.

this is what I am still learning...otherwise I would drive myself in to sleeplessness...it was NEVER going to be right....Im the MAN

 

[Vegas Transplant]

I'm buffing my car for the first time. Just got in the griots da with a 5" backing plate and an assortment of 5" CCS pads.
Also have #205, and Meg UC
Everything is working great, I'm just not getting out the larger scratches.
Do I need some #105?

I thought the UC had more cut I guess.

No I can't feel it with a fingernail. The combo I'm using right now is taking out the very fine swirls, but there are a few leftovers that (as rider mentioned) I'll probably have to live with.

I had a pretty bad hood scratch that I wetsanded and rotary buffed. Its still barely visible in the right light and I was hoping that the DA would "blend" it a little more.

I think when I get some sealant and wax on top, the problems I'm seeing might be a little less evident.

I just wondered if a more aggressive compound might lessen the visibility of the scratches more than the UC.

Trying to get too many scratches out I guess!

Factory or repaint?
Sounds like you've done enough already.

 

[flamed03vert]

Just went through this same thing on a black 2010 Challenger today. Same combo and everything. I had to run on speed 6 with a well primed pad to get the swirls. The yellow heavy cut was leaving alot of marring. The RIDS are frustrating. I agree that wet sanding and several passes would do wonders.

 

[tuscarora dave]

Yellow pads finish horribly. There's much better options that have good cut and finish better.

Does anybody seriously use yellow LC pads? They are just ridiculous, I'd sooner sand than use a yellow pad.

 

[tuscarora dave]

That depends on what you are calling larger scratches? Pictures would help, can you hook a fingernail in the scratches you are talking about?

This is pretty much something that you need to figure out. 105 would be where I would go to remove a larger scratch that you can't catch your fingernail in. I'd use it on an orange pad if you have it, or a microfiber pad as has been suggested.

UC is really a safe compound that won't quickly cause a lot of damage if overworked by a novice. If you notice when you go into places like Advance Auto Parts, the UC is with all the other safe detailing products, and the 105 is over with the body shop supplies. It's because they want to market it to professionals who are skilled with it. Why? Because you can cut all of your clear coat off with it if you don't have any experience in correcting paint. Heck, I've seen pros do it.

The safe thing would be to do some more passes with the UC in the area with the deeper scratch until you're happy with your results. If you can't feel it, UC will eventually remove it. Just understand that you will be removing the same amount of clear coat paint as the scratch is deep and the clear is super thin to begin with on most cars.

 

[addysdaddy]

Unfortunately I don't use CCS pads, but I do use the hydrotechs and UC. Blue HT + UC removes all scratches except for RIDS using speed 6 on my 7424xp, even on harder clears (though haven't tried ceramic)

Great to know. I bought several of the Cyan hydrotech pads and fortunately haven't had the need. Trying to keep my world restricted to M205 with the tangerine pad if u know what I mean. haha.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

I'm buffing my car for the first time. Just got in the griots da with a 5" backing plate and an assortment of 5" CCS pads.
Also have #205, and Meg UC
Everything is working great, I'm just not getting out the larger scratches.
Do I need some #105?

I thought the UC had more cut I guess.

Actually, despite what you may have read, Ultimate Compound is similar to M105, they both use microscopic abrasives so you, nor anyone else can simply rub some between their fingers and try to determine if the product is aggressive or not.

I checked with Mike Pennington, when I wrote this article and if you simply look at the picture you'll see UC is right next to M95 and for a reason. Note M105 and M95 are both rated the same for aggressiveness.

The Aggressiveness Order of SMAT Products - This might surprise you!


Super Micro Abrasive Technology = SMAT
From left to right, the most aggressive to the least aggressive SMAT products

From the most to the least aggressive...

M105 Ultra-Cut Compound/M95 Speed Cut Compound = The same in abrading power
Ultimate Compound
ScratchX 2.0
M86 Solo Cut & Polish Cream
D151 Paint Reconditioning Cream
SwirlX
M205 Ultra Finishing Polish
​

Now instead of SCANNING... (like we're all prone to do on discussion forums), read the below very carefully.

The order shown here is relative, to the idea that if all things were equal, if all influencing factors could be controlled and be identical when using these products.

That of course is impossible because some of these products are only recommended for use with a rotary buffer while some of these products are only recommended for use by hand or with a dual action polisher. So if we were to follow the manufactures recommendations then we wouldn't be able to compare all of these products side-by-side because in some examples they cannot be used in an equal manner.

Does that make sense?

This article is just to give you a GENERAL idea for the aggressiveness of these products when relatively compared to one another. The way a product is applied, (by hand or machine and if by machine the type of machine), and the application material used to apply the products, (foam, wool, wool/acrylic blend, cotton, microfiber), are both HUGE factors that will and do affect how aggressive a product is or isn't.

So keep this in mind when considering which product to choose and use for your detailing project.

Also keep in mind this is a very diverse group of products, all of these products except the D151 PRC are products with the dedicated purpose of removing below surface defects like swirls, scratches and other etchings and blemishes.

The D151 is a one-step cleaner/wax that has the ability to remove below surface defects, polish the paint to a high gloss and then leave behind a coating of protection.

Any questions?

No I can't feel it with a fingernail. The combo I'm using right now is taking out the very fine swirls, but there are a few leftovers that (as rider mentioned) I'll probably have to live with.

I had a pretty bad hood scratch that I wetsanded and rotary buffed. Its still barely visible in the right light and I was hoping that the DA would "blend" it a little more.

Are you working on a factory original finish? Or a repaint?

Read through this article and then BALANCE how many and how deep the scratches you remove in relationship to how bad you want to keep and maintain the current paint job, that is you don't want to repaint the car or the hood.

Beginning Clearcoat Failure

Photos Courtesy of MeguiarsOnline

I think when I get some sealant and wax on top, the problems I'm seeing might be a little less evident.

I just wondered if a more aggressive compound might lessen the visibility of the scratches more than the UC.

Trying to get too many scratches out I guess!

If you don't remove the defects during the correction step they will still be visible when you wipe the final coat of wax off the car.

A more aggressive compound will simply remove more paint faster, so be careful. Like stated, you might be safer making a few extra passes with the UC and at some point learn to leave with any remaining deeper scratches.

See this article,

RIDS - The Definition of RIDS and the story behind the term...



Question that no one has asked...


Is this a daily driver or a show car?

If it's a daily driver, you're usually better off to remove the shallow swirls and scratches and learn to live with the deeper defects because you're going to get more defects into the future and you cannot safely continue to compound the paint endlessly without removing too much of the thin and precious clear layer of paint.

The rotary left some swirls that are gone after the DA. I'm just too chicken to sand much more.

All you need to do is turn your buffing pad over and see the color of the basecoat coming off to get a really bad, sinking feeling in your gut. Nothing wrong with going with your instincts and stopping while you're still in your comfort zone.

Everybody says it looks great so I guess I need to quit sweating every little thing.

You're not the first and you won't be the last. I've always seen a repeating trend on detailing discussion forums and it usually goes with people getting too excited about the success they're having and then wanting to push the envelope a little further to reach perfection. Nothing wrong with perfection but do understand the difference in buffing out a daily driver versus a show car.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Does anybody seriously use yellow LC pads? They are just ridiculous, I'd sooner sand than use a yellow pad.

I used them for this project and for what we were doing they worked great!

It's all about matching the right product and in the example below, the right pad for the job.

• The below project was extremely neglected
• The owner had NEVER machine buffed a car
• Chances are really good since we did this project the Toyota has not seen any more maintenance care. (I knew this from the beginning)

KISS Detail - Extreme Makeover - Toyota Highlander

Before

After

:buffing: