REVIEW: Menzerna PF2500

TundraPower said:
I bet it's the best purchase you've made in a long time my friend. PF2500 is one of those "grand slam" products every company wishes it had.
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I went with sonax perfect finish instead of pf2500. SPF is great! They are probably similar products. Intermediate polishes that can be used for one step polishing on cars with soft paint and scratches and swirls that are not too deep. I only went with SPF because I saw that a few top detailers were using it on supercars as a one step. I figured if it was good enough for those cars, it should be good enough for me. It works great with a medium polishing pad and final finishing pad if you want to jewel it.
 
vegas911gts said:
I went with sonax perfect finish instead of pf2500. SPF is great! They are probably similar products. Intermediate polishes that can be used for one step polishing on cars with soft paint and scratches and swirls that are not too deep. I only went with SPF because I saw that a few top detailers were using it on supercars as a one step. I figured if it was good enough for those cars, it should be good enough for me. It works great with a medium polishing pad and final finishing pad if you want to jewel it.
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I really like SPF!!!
 
Jrocket said:
Great 1st Review .. and Great Results!

Might have to pick a bottle of this up:xyxthumbs:

Look forward to some shots in the sun
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Tried Menz PF2500 in my swirled hood 2 months ago, really left a glossy smooth finish. Just noticed awhile ago under the sun that the polished area was free from medium to light swirls. And deeper swirls were still evident, which was fine with me, I just want the gloss of my paint be restored without removing much of my paint. This is indeed a great gloss enhancing swirl removing product that leaves a really glossy smooth finish! :dblthumb2:
 
--- Attention --- Bumped 'old' thread (sorry).

Hello,

I'm about to receive my PF2500 in the next few hours (went to delivery).

I have a project that I would like to work today, and I'm convinced that this will be the product I will use.

By the way, I'm a 'New age Meguiar's Guy'. By that I mean I've only used SMAT products.

Can someone, please, be gentle enough to guide me through DAT products, specially this one in question?

Please, you can treat me like a noobie in this case, I've never used DAT. So you can start with the 'priming the pad' part. Is that as important?

How to work, how to break the abrasives? What size of an area? Polisher Speed, arm speed?

I know everything can be a variable, but with some GENERAL guidance, I can move on from that.

Please, help me!

Thank you in advance,

Kind Regards.
 
Tato said:
--- Attention --- Bumped 'old' thread (sorry).

Hello,

I'm about to receive my PF2500 in the next few hours (went to delivery).

I have a project that I would like to work today, and I'm convinced that this will be the product I will use.

By the way, I'm a 'New age Meguiar's Guy'. By that I mean I've only used SMAT products.

Can someone, please, be gentle enough to guide me through DAT products, specially this one in question?

Please, you can treat me like a noobie in this case, I've never used DAT. So you can start with the 'priming the pad' part. Is that as important?

How to work, how to break the abrasives? What size of an area? Polisher Speed, arm speed?

I know everything can be a variable, but with some GENERAL guidance, I can move on from that.

Please, help me!

Thank you in advance,

Kind Regards.
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a DAT based polish like Menz will require that you work the product sufficiently to allow the abrasives to adequately break down, and thus give the great gloss at the end

The first few passes are going to be where all the cut comes from as this is when the abrasives are at their largest.

I use a lot of Menz polishes and what I have found for me is:

1. Prime the pad
2. Remove any excess with a terry towel (aka cleaning on the fly as per Mike Phillips videos)
3. Add 3 pea sized drops (this may change depending on weather/working area/paint type etc)
4. I then pat my working area with the pad to spread the product out (I don't want to spread it out with the machine on a low speed as I am scared the abrasives will already start breaking down)
5. Then I make 2 REALLY SLOW DELIBERATE passes over the area, really allowing the abrasives to get worked across the paint and break down. This is generally with 'medium' pressure.
6. Follow this with another 2 or so passes with light pressure until the polish has properly broken down (you will see it change consistency/color)

Other things I have noticed are flat pads work better than something like a CCS pad (which re-introduces fresh polish to the working face, and then you have new polish [read non-broken down abrasives] on the paint at the supposed end of your buffing cycle).

FG400 likes to be worked slower (speed 3 or 4 on a DA)
PF2500 more like 4 or 5
SF4000 more like 4 or 5

I am sure other more experienced guys will chime in, but this is more or less how I do it, and it works, for me.
 
awesome writeup claude, very thorough and to the point -- stop tempting me with more products !
 
lawrenceSA said:
a DAT based polish like Menz will require that you work the product sufficiently to allow the abrasives to adequately break down, and thus give the great gloss at the end

The first few passes are going to be where all the cut comes from as this is when the abrasives are at their largest.

I use a lot of Menz polishes and what I have found for me is:

1. Prime the pad
2. Remove any excess with a terry towel (aka cleaning on the fly as per Mike Phillips videos)
3. Add 3 pea sized drops (this may change depending on weather/working area/paint type etc)
4. I then pat my working area with the pad to spread the product out (I don't want to spread it out with the machine on a low speed as I am scared the abrasives will already start breaking down)
5. Then I make 2 REALLY SLOW DELIBERATE passes over the area, really allowing the abrasives to get worked across the paint and break down. This is generally with 'medium' pressure.
6. Follow this with another 2 or so passes with light pressure until the polish has properly broken down (you will see it change consistency/color)

Other things I have noticed are flat pads work better than something like a CCS pad (which re-introduces fresh polish to the working face, and then you have new polish [read non-broken down abrasives] on the paint at the supposed end of your buffing cycle).

FG400 likes to be worked slower (speed 3 or 4 on a DA)
PF2500 more like 4 or 5
SF4000 more like 4 or 5

I am sure other more experienced guys will chime in, but this is more or less how I do it, and it works, for me.
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I too am a big Menzerna fan. I agree with Lawrence on pretty much everything he said.

1) I prefer (and it seems the product prefers) flat pads, except for FG400 which I love to combine with Megs MF cutting pad... KILLER COMBO!
2) Slow working speed and working the product COMPLETELY is key
3) Adjusting the machine speed is where a novice may need a little practice. I do tend to differ a little from Lawrence in that I actually like to smear the product lightly before starting the machine (not to drive the compound in the paint but to avoid having globs that may fly all over). I then do a quick pass to assure that the whole area will have "fresh product"
4) I do also differ in the fact that I don't remove the excess priming but simply adjust the dots I start with on the pad.
5) My last 2 passes are high speed light pressure jeweling type passes just like Lawrence.

I do hope our experience with the product allows you a successful run with it. It is truly a great product.

P.S. Dusting does occur in high humidity (for some reason) but nothing like what I have experienced with other products. Cleaning your pad on the fly (Mike's technique or a pad brush) and rotating through multiple pads does help avoid that.
 
Hey, you all! You are... (I don't know the word, but is a good adjective!).

Saying thank you only cannot demonstrate how happy I'm reading your words.

I'm sure I'll have to adjust product use to my case, but no doubt I'm absolutely secure to start.

I could only afford (for this time) PF2500 (PO203 or vice/versa), so I'll use M205 (I have in Kg) instead of SF4000 or 4500 if needed to finish it down. Is there any harm?

For pads, I have hydrotech tangerine (orange!), white flat, and Meg's microfiber cutting and finishing disc.

I'm willing to use HT, however I'm really tempted using Finishing MF disc. Would that be fine? Should I test it or there is any concern like using CCS?

Hope this is it for now,

Ah, did I say Thank you?!

THANK YOU!

Kind Regards.
 
Hi

Glad that we can help. Its the great thing about a forum like this.

Generally speaking, on harder paints if I am going to multi step I go FG 400 on MF or orange pads, the finish with SF 4000 on black/red/white pads (depends on the paint).

A 1-step polish will be PF 2500 on the appropriate pad (paint dependent).

On extremely hard paints you may need to go 400/2500/4000.

On soft paints ( I have done a couple of Subarus) I have achieved correction with SF 4000 on a black pad.

To me SF4500 is reserved for dark/black paint 'show car'-type detail where you are trying to eek out the most possible gloss.
 
Oh, well,

That complements a lot. Positioning 2500 and correctly describing as 1-step will help me to cho(o)se it at the right time.

Thanks again,


The 'other' great thing other than helping is being helped.

Kind Regards.
 
I used pf2500 on a Burgandy 2001 MB ML55 that my buddy recently bought.Severely neglected, oxidized and heavily swirled. Used my cyclo and flex with orange B&S pads and I would say it got 80-85% correction with a lot of gloss. Then a coat of 4star sealant. Pretty damn impressive product.
 
Tato said:
Hey, you all! You are... (I don't know the word, but is a good adjective!).

Saying thank you only cannot demonstrate how happy I'm reading your words.

I'm sure I'll have to adjust product use to my case, but no doubt I'm absolutely secure to start.

I could only afford (for this time) PF2500 (PO203 or vice/versa), so I'll use M205 (I have in Kg) instead of SF4000 or 4500 if needed to finish it down. Is there any harm?

For pads, I have hydrotech tangerine (orange!), white flat, and Meg's microfiber cutting and finishing disc.

I'm willing to use HT, however I'm really tempted using Finishing MF disc. Would that be fine? Should I test it or there is any concern like using CCS?

Hope this is it for now,

Ah, did I say Thank you?!

THANK YOU!

Kind Regards.
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What machine are you using?

MF Finishing Discs, at least from my experience, will leave small but noticeable marks on softer dark paints.

PF2500 and tangerine should finish acceptably. If you need more cut in certain areas, use PF2500 on the MF disc, then step back down to foam to finish.
 
Hi, thank you for message.

I use Meg's G220v2.

I've tried MF finishing discs (prior reading your message) - went exactly like you've said: somewhat hazy on softer dark paint I've tested. However I was impressed by the cut of the polish on the MF, it's like I was looking for, a polish with more cut than M205, an intermediate between my compounds and finishing polishes. Liked very much.

I've tried a LC white flat pad but couldn't get a perfect finish yet, needed a black foam (finishing). Maybe I need to get used.

I found this polish very 'tricky', it can be worked faster, slower, with more / less pressure, and passes can go from 3 to 300! Its work time is large.

What I couldn't get is when to stop working... looks like I can work this product infinitely when it goes 'clear'... I've just notice that more than 3 passes would not improve. Now I'm tempted to switch to a black finishing pad to do the final passes before wipe off (like 'Todd' suggested on M105 - switching pads). Looks like it'll save time.

Tangerine Pad was difficult to use, it's harder then I've thought. Can I put high pressure on a HT pad or it's better to not use much pressure?

I'm from 'DA with 6.5" pads school', that means lots and lots of pressure. Now I'm with too many new variables, 5" pads and new polishes.

Ohh, sorry for lots of questions, I really want to get into these subject.

Thank you for attention,

Kind Regards.
 
To add:

Used again today, now in my 'old school' style: 6.5 flat white (polishing) pad, 5.5 speed on my G220v2. Worked as expected (2 steps in 1). This product is awesome, really.

Thank you very much for divulging it. I'm proud I've ordered 32oz.

Now it's my 2nd favorite for 'magics'... ahh, Uber Compound is 1st, hands down .

Kind Regards.
 
This review makes me happy I got 32 oz. of this stuff as well.

Along with 32 oz. of FG400, SI1500, SF4000 and SF4500. Ha.
 
arisking said:
This review makes me happy I got 32 oz. of this stuff as well.

Along with 32 oz. of FG400, SI1500, SF4000 and SF4500. Ha.
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LOL!

You'll like it, guaranteed.

Some people say Uber Compound is somewhat similar to FG400 (I'M NOT saying they are the same, just looks like).

If that's ~true, be happy twice because Uber is really UBER. Finished LSP more than ready using HT tangerine pad on soft paint. !! What a cut, what a finish... what a chemical smell :( but we can go through it!

For PO203 (PF2500), it has a straight forward learning curve. It's very versatile (I've tried each panel with a kind of PAD), just didn't like the result in a finishing pad (IF looking for AIO good results), apart from that it cleaned well and looked more shiny. Very little to none correction though.

I'm about to try it on orange pad for AIO in medium to hard paints, but white polishing pad (I've used flat) is the standard (for me) when I look at this product in my shelf. In this scenario, it done exactly what it promises, affordable cut, great finish.

I'm curious about the 4000/4500, be prepared to wear googles because 2500 finish is almost as 'brilliant' as one can get.


Nice order, indeed,

Kind Regards.
 
I don't know I've used UC and FG, I like FG more so far. But UC has its place for sure.

Funny out of all the Menzerna products in that order I've only not used PF2500, haha. But your comment with others I've read about makes me excited!

Tato said:
LOL!

You'll like it, guaranteed.

Some people say Uber Compound is somewhat similar to FG400 (I'M NOT saying they are the same, just looks like).

If that's ~true, be happy twice because Uber is really UBER. Finished LSP more than ready using HT tangerine pad on soft paint. !! What a cut, what a finish... what a chemical smell :( but we can go through it!

For PO203 (PF2500), it has a straight forward learning curve. It's very versatile (I've tried each panel with a kind of PAD), just didn't like the result in a finishing pad (IF looking for AIO good results), apart from that it cleaned well and looked more shiny. Very little to none correction though.

I'm about to try it on orange pad for AIO in medium to hard paints, but white polishing pad (I've used flat) is the standard (for me) when I look at this product in my shelf. In this scenario, it done exactly what it promises, affordable cut, great finish.

I'm curious about the 4000/4500, be prepared to wear googles because 2500 finish is almost as 'brilliant' as one can get.


Nice order, indeed,

Kind Regards.
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When you guys use fg400 or 2500, are you guys doing ipa wipe owns or just straight to wax/sealant?
 
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