Tips for using Detailer's Paint Coating
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Mike Phillips
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Very glossy or you could even use the word glassy...
This is a Mustang we coated with Detailer's Paint Coating after machine polishing and then machine applying the Detailer's Paint Coating Prep...
1965 Mustang GT Convertible - Detailer's Paint Coating
Here's what the owner sent me in an e-mail the next day,
When I opened my garage door this morning I almost had to put on my sunglass because my car was just GLEAMING!!!
Mike Phillips
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What you posted above would seem to make sense at face value.
I know if I had a car with very soft paint I would probably choose to apply a coating that's slick for if no other reason to help reduce marring and scratching.
:xyxthumbs:
CWallace
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Ok guys, what's the deal... Just applied DP paint coating on a customers car.... I must have done something wrong, because it seem entirely too easy!! I pumped a couple sprays, spread with foam applicator and wiped down with a microfiber towel... First off, it seems like I wasn't using enough product to cover an entire panel. But I trusted the reviews and how too and stuck to 2-3 pumps per panel! Still seems too easy... Can anyone tell me how to make sure I got full coverage! It's curing in my shop now...
Curious if anyone has used this on single stage paints? How we'll does it hold up to oxidation? I had worked on a customers car and used a sealant, but it is all oxidized again after about 6 months or so. Granted, I don't know how the owner took care of the car after I worked on it. Just wondering how much protection from oxidation will there be? I do have the DP coating and will be using it on the same car this weekend btw.
Mike Phillips
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There's some tips in this article, the one you're posting to, I share this in Tip 3
Tip 3 - Look at the paint from an angle that allows you to see the product on the surface
The product is very clear, like water so on lighter colored cars, especially white and silver metallics, it can be hard to see on the surface. Position yourself so you can look at the panel at an angle and use any surrounding light source to inspect for high points, that is excess residue.
Mike Phillips
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DPC can be used on single stage paints. In fact my first use of this product was on single stage paint because that's what I had in the garage at that time. See here...
Detailer’s Paint Coating on Single Stage Paint
What are you working on?
Old car with old single stage paint? New car with single stage paint?
If the paint is oxidizing and returning to the state in which it was in before you worked on it then it sounds like either the car is not being maintained regularly and/or worse washed in a non-careful manner. Hard to say without talking to the owner.
It could also be the paint is close to the point of no return and if that's the case the only thing that will save it is constant attention.
How about a picture?
Mike Phillips
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That's a good question and I'm sure that how aggressive the clay and how hard you push will be huge factors.
Clay contains abrasives that work to in essence, abrade off any contaminants that have formed a bond to the surface of the paint. My guess is that if you use an ultra fine grade clay, lots of lube and a soft or light touch and only enough passes of the clay over the paint to remove any offending contaminants you will have done everything in your power to not disturbed this coating or ANY coating applied to the paint.
When it comes to questions like this I like to put things into extreme analogies as this type of explanation will tend to answer a questions for the most AR personality type as well as everyone else...
Here we go...
Will claying add coating to the coating?
The answer is obviously "no". So then ask yourself, what's the opposite of the word adding?
If the paint on your car has been coated and after washing the car and/or wiping the car clean you then inspect the coating and find some type of contaminant bonded to the coating. If you want to remove the contaminant then you're going to have to use "something" to break the bond of the contaminant.
Claying is an option.
My normal recommendation and personal practice is that if I'm going to clay the paint on a car then I'm going to do at least one machine polishing step after claying.
This means that after the polishing step I will then have to apply some type of LSP to seal and protect the paint.
To you Ginnova,
Do you feel contaminants on paint you've coated or is this a hypothetical question?
Here's a brief backgroud:
A month ago I put 2 coats of DP paint coating on the hood of my car to test out the product's durability. Paint was properly prepped ( washed with ironx soap , clay , polished, IPA , DP prep polish ) before the application. No boosters were applied after the weekly wash.
Beading and sheeting was excellent for the 1st 4 weeks.BTW, none of my previous LSP's ( waxes / sealants ) have maintained their beading and sheeting properties this long with our inclement weather. After the 5th week and with the unpredictable weather , paint has gone thru some serious beating causing the beading to be greatly reduced. There are some very light contaminants on the paint so decided to clay ( Mothers ). After claying , beading was totally gone but sheeting is still alive. Paint is almost dry after a few minutes.
Hoping to restore the beading back, hood was polished by hand with DP prep polish. Can't believe beading is back.
I was thinking if the DP prep polish has caused the beading, so i decided to wash with soap half of the hood to verify.
As you can see , the portion of the hood that was washed came out flat compared to the other side. But that portion was totally dry after a few minutes.
A month ago I put 2 coats of DP paint coating on the hood of my car to test out the product's durability. Paint was properly prepped ( washed with ironx soap , clay , polished, IPA , DP prep polish ) before the application. No boosters were applied after the weekly wash.
Beading and sheeting was excellent for the 1st 4 weeks.BTW, none of my previous LSP's ( waxes / sealants ) have maintained their beading and sheeting properties this long with our inclement weather. After the 5th week and with the unpredictable weather , paint has gone thru some serious beating causing the beading to be greatly reduced. There are some very light contaminants on the paint so decided to clay ( Mothers ). After claying , beading was totally gone but sheeting is still alive. Paint is almost dry after a few minutes.
Hoping to restore the beading back, hood was polished by hand with DP prep polish. Can't believe beading is back.
I was thinking if the DP prep polish has caused the beading, so i decided to wash with soap half of the hood to verify.
As you can see , the portion of the hood that was washed came out flat compared to the other side. But that portion was totally dry after a few minutes.
Meticulous-Detail
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Did you wash first and recheck the beading or judging the beading with the car dirty?
Mike Phillips
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Just to point out to those reading this in the future that might not look at where you live as it's listed under your forum name.
Manila
Nothing lasts forever, especially the crisp fresh waxed look after you just wipe any wax, sealant or coating off paint.
I think I explain that here on page 6 of this thread. I'd recommend reading the entire thread to get the context of my answer but I am going to post my entire answer.
Attention Pinnacle Black Label fans...
Mike Phillips said:Interesting read...
I'm not 100% sure but outside of any testing Nick and other employees did before the launch of the Black Label coatings, I think I documented the first complete whole car applications of the Black Label coatings before they went public.
Note: Black Label was announced at SEMA which takes place the first week of November each year.
Black Label Diamond Paint Coating
Date: Wednesday, October 2nd 2013
Lady in Red - 1986 Porsche - 4-Step Process
(Asked the owner just last Friday how the paint was looking on the Porsche and he said like the day he picked it up)
Black Label Diamond Surface Coating
Date: Thursday October 24th, 2013
2006 Mercedes-Benz SLK 350 Show Car Makeover Pictures
Black Label Diamond Paint Coating
Date: Thursday October 17th, 2013
Candy Apple 1955 Ford F100 with Black Label Diamond Paint Coating
(This was only to the front clip, hood and fenders, no time for the cab and truck bed due to filming a TV show)
Since SEMA we have applied the Black Label Diamond Paint Coating to two Thursday night project cars.
Black Label Diamond Paint Coating
2013 Dodge Charger - Black Label Diamond Paint Coating- New Rupes Polishers - Pictures & Video
Date: November 14th, 2003
Black Label Diamond Paint Coating
Date: Thursday, November 21st, 2013
Ready for the Mud!
And I have applied the Black Label Diamond Paint Coating to 3 cars I have privately detailed.
Black Label Diamond Paint Coating
Date: Saturday, November 15th, 2013
Black Label Diamond Paint Coating on a 2012 Mercedes-Benz E350
Black Label Diamond Paint Coating
Date: Saturday, December 13th, 2013
How long to wait before waxing a brand new car?
Black Label Diamond Paint Coating
Date: Saturday, December 30th, 2013
2014 Black Mercedes-Benz E350 detailed by Mike Phillips
So after documenting the above, that is cars I've either buffed out and coated or helped to buff out and coat, the first thing that came to my mind after applying the Paint Coating and the Surface Coating to full cars, (so that would be the red Porsche and the silver Mercedes-Benz SLK 350), was...
I need something to maintain these cars...
In the case of the Porsche, I need and want something for the owner of the Porsche to use to take care of the finish.
The two natural products would be a spray detailer and a spray "wax" except instead of a waxy substance, the spray-on product would need to be chemically similar to the coating.
The two products would need to offer synergistic chemical compatibility as well as be synergistic chemically beneficial. That is similar in chemical make-up.
And the biggest reason why is because after doing all the preparation steps, correction steps, polishing and prepping steps and then finally applying the coatings, I want something that is going to maintain both the results and all the hard work, time and energy that goes behind projects like the above.
To me it seems like a no-brainer. Sure you could maintain the coatings with any spray detailer or any spray wax or spray sealant and when it's your car do as you will.
But for me and my cars and my customer's cars I want to keep everything in the chemical family so to speak. Again, I did the work steps. The cars didn't prep and polish themselves out.
I washed Stacy's SLK on Sunday before the football game and now I'm going to start maintaining it with the Pinnacle Black Label Coating Booster and keep the Pinnacle Black Label Coating Detailer in the Autogeek Detail Bag in the trunk so she can keep the dust off or remove any fresh contaminants.
After washing and drying the finish still looks great but nothing the crisp just waxed look comes from doing something as a part of regular maintenance if you really want this look. It's not that the coatings don't last a long time but to put things in the anal retentive analogy because that fits best for a segment of car enthusiasts that hang out on car detailing forums...
Will the appearance value of a coated car get better and better with time with no maintenance?
The answer is "no" and what's the opposite of better and better?
FWIW
Hope that helps...
:xyxthumbs: