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Having read most of what you have written.. Seems you are using a mild combination on an assumption the paint is soft.. Seems it's not and you have overworked the polish and the pad.. I'd suggest starting over, grab some fg400, as you already have the 2500 and 3800.. Using an equivalent of...

Every new car I have ever had has needed something whether it be full decontamination and a paint cleanse (ie zero defect removal, but proper paint cleaning) , or in one case a full correction.. (last step was with carpro essence so that saved time ahead of the coating application... But I...

Personally I use and prefer; For DA:- Scholl Spider pads (Honey, purple, blue and white cut). Scholl waffle finishing pads (jewelling on softer paint or LSP application). Buff and Shine MF pads (light and heavy cut). For Rotary:- Scholl Honey (jewelling) 5" Scholl spider purple and blue 3"...

CAN'T HELP RE THE ALTERNATE BRAND SORRY , BUT THE FREQENCY OF FAILURE YOU ARE HAVING IS EITHER BAD LUCK, OR YOUR METHOD IS CAUSING EXCESSIVE HEAT E.G. OVERLY HIGH LOAD AND HIGH SPEED, WITH TOO LONG A WORK TIME / WORK SIZE... DO YOU HAVE PADS COLLAPSING TOO? IF YES THEN A PROCESS CHANGE MAY SAVE...

The LSP you select will only optimise the prep done.. Spend you time and effort polishing the finish to as high a gloss as you reasonably can.. Look into jeweling... white is hard to make it pop but it is absolutely possible.. Once done the LSP will come down to what you want to use how often...

"IME" Ech02 does no more then a multitude of detailing sprays / waterless wash / ONR achieve... ie light cleaning and leaves a trace gloss enhancer and can in some cases be e little more finicky to remove.. not hard just requiring a final inspection after a seperate buff.. As a finishing LSP...

IME reloads appearance is no different from 1 - 3 coats.. ie its great after 1 correctly applied even coat... so maybe there is a saving for you there.. IF you have an uneven surface and coat it you will have a glossier uneven surface... and potentially more obviously uneven... As Rasky...

Just a couple of points on Iron-x; Some callipers can discolour following application. Any coated or finished callipers are usually OK, some bare metal ones can discolour (blacken). I have observed this on lower end Mercedes brake callipers (TRW calliper and galfer pads from factory).. the...

ONR doesn't harm the coating at all. Doesn't seem to add or detract to the performance markedly either. Personally I have switched to echo2 for waterless and detailing spray on my coated car... Use the ONR, sealants and waxes in the wife's.. To the OP, to simplify, I'd wash and used hydro2 all...

feel sorry for the trolley.... It got cleaned up..

Some have used a garden sprayer and apparently achieved a good result. But I imagine this would be sufficient for wheels for example where the surface to rinse is smaller... As opposed a full Vechicle.. Unless you do a single panel at a time.. But that way I guess you may as well apply reload...

Using iron X or similar to clean the ferrous dust off the rotor as well as the wheel, completing the wash and blow drying with a leaf blower reduces the re appearance of iron oxide noticeably...

Yep... Slapping c Quartz on the barrels and face helps a lot.. maintaining with Hydro 2 makes weekly cleaning pretty effortless..

Same here... On multi spoke AMG wheels anything else is a PITA...

Hit it with iron X.. Before you use the nano disc.. for a spray on rub in step its gonna take a lot of work off the disc.. also dissolves the ferrous sunk into the clear. where as the claying only shaves the top off by in large.. Its a no brainer step..

Scholl s20 with their Blue spider pad...

I used Megs APC at 20:1 on MF... Removed minimal dye transfer, general dirt and the occasional small spillage. Finished with plane water on MF to ensure no residue left over and it always returned to factory look. I have a similar disdain for anything that leaves a residue on interior soft...

OP re CQUK Keep in mind its upper temp range constraint and that darker paint surfaces are noticeably warmer even in partly shaded... IF the rapid flash off is of concern you can use regular CQuartz.... And no matter what you use try and get full shade, the variation in varying direct sunlight...

Either a paint brush trimmed down, a Q-Tip, or for long thin runs; hotel key cards with thin MF over them.. rotating the working face of the cloth practically continuously.. Usually this is with APC or ONR... For stubborn shite I have also used Q-tips with P21s paint cleaner (eg in a plastic...

On matte surfaces on my bikes I only use ONR adter normal washing and lube.. On gloss I have cQuartz and use reload.. Basically whatever you want same as car clearcoat..