1989 Black Ford Mustang GT: oxidation??

Dan Tran

Dan Tran

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Hello all!

I just want to make sure this is oxidized paint. Also, is there anything extra I need to do to buff this ride out in addition to my regular steps of compounding, polish, and sealant.

She is looking for the paint to pop as much as possible.

I never dealt with this before.

My supplies:

m105
m205
m100
the complete Rupes 15 mark II system with all the gels
the Meguiars ultimate trio
HD Speed.

Also I have Meguiar's MF cutting and finishing pads

Am I equipped to do this car?
View attachment 50365View attachment 50366View attachment 50368

Please help me!

Please and thank you!
 
paul_g said:
in 1989, those cars had clear coat. I think you're looking at clear-coat failure.
Click to expand...

I would have to take a second look or snap better pictures.

When there is clear coat failure, does it look like skin peeling from a sun burn?

Sorry I am just trying to better understand.
 
Dan Tran said:
I would have to take a second look or snap better pictures.

When there is clear coat failure, does it look like skin peeling from a sun burn?

Sorry I am just trying to better understand.
Click to expand...


Clear coat failure will show gradually, when there is no UV protection, it will get oxidated, get hazed/ foggy looking and then eventurally clear coat will peel off.

hard to tell with this pic, but as always start from least aggressive method and more up to compound to find best solution. Since you have whole rupes set, I would just stick to that.

I do find rupes work the best when used it as whole system and smoothness was noticeable when it comes to Rupes 15/21 + rupes pad vs non rupes pad.

If its clear coat failure like Paul pointed out, only way to fix this is new paint job.
 
At the end of the day,you can make it better than it looks now.I would just use 205 on it,and explain to her the car is 27 years old and you can't make a miracle happen.205 then top it with some wax and get paid.
 
I am wondering if you could use a Glaze to bring back the luster of your ride...But I agree start with the least aggressive method and then go from there. The only other thing I might suggest is applying a glaze like Poorboy's Black Hole. But either way please tell us your outcome as IMO this baby needs some TLC PERIOD!! Pics too!
 
Your gonna need a product with a mild cleaning ability,glazes don't provide that,they conceal and there is no concealing going on here.
 
In the first picture showing the passenger rear/window pillar, is that sun reflection?
 
I had a '89 GT convertible that was definitely single stage. It cleaned up extremely well with an MF pad and medium cut compound. You should be good to go with what you have.

We'll expect before/after pics of this since it should be a huge change.

And tell your client to get the rear end gear swapped out to a 3.73!
 
WeekendDIY said:
In the first picture showing the passenger rear/window pillar, is that sun reflection?
Click to expand...

No partly cloudy at the time. But when I looked at it the second time with the sun out, it made no difference... Really!
 
View attachment 50380View attachment 50381

Here are two close-up pictures I took when the sun was actually out.

The first one is the left part of the hood and the second one was between center hood and right hood.

View attachment 50383

Here is a picture of the rear deck with spoiler. Not the best picture.

Either way, hope these extra pictures helps you help me.
 
wow....that paint looks to be in pretty bad shape. I hope you get paid well for this one, seriously. Looks like a lot of work. Some spots may not be salvageable. I know I sound negative and I don't mean to. Just CYA I guess is what I'm getting at.
 
Some spots look like the faint start of clear coat failure but imo overall it looks like its starving for some product! If it does polish out and some gloss come back its gonna def have to be kept up with regularly to keep it that way! Maybe a new reg customer lol
 
I had a 92 5.0 Red that was single stage from the factory. If it is single stage, soaking Meguiars #7 like Mike Phillips talks about would be good.
 
I think several test spot with different products is in order.
 
Clear coat was not offered on Mustangs until 1990 and it was only on select colors. That black, if it's original paint, should be single stage.
 
I believe the black paint on 89 mustangs was single stage, paint code 1C. Therefore you are not looking at clear coat failure.
 
I would wash it first,then rewash it with some clay then wash it again using 105 on a terry cloth.This will rid any dead oxidation prior to polishing.Then polish with either xmt or 205.The goal here is to make it look better not to shave more paint off by using correction products and full speed buffing.you will need a lot of micro pads for this job.It will turn out awesome.apply some easy on easy of wax with nice glossy finish such as trademark carnauba.show us after photos.
 
I'd probably add IronX to the recipe if you want to do a really good job. MF pads will cut the buffing time down a lot.

Being that it's black single stage paint, I think it's going to come out really nice. Put some DGPS and nuba on that and it's going to look like a completely different car.
 
Yeah sorry I cant say for sure but I would probably do a few test spots, some areas look worn through the paint like that pic of the front fender. I would be VERY cautious.
 
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