DAMF + m105= Fantastc

Initial amount applied to a fresh pad.


Add a little more and spread so that 100% of the face of the pad has product rubbed into all the fibers so all the fibers are working for you.



This is what a fully primed MF pad looks like in my world. No additional dots of product. I start working a 12"x12" work section as you see the pad below.



The only way to clean MF pads.



After this initial priming, just a few drops around the outer 1/3 of the pad spread in a little, will do for each additional 12"x12" work section afterward. The center of the pad pretty much always stays damp enough with product that no additional product needs to be applied to the center of the pad.

I use this method in cleaning the pad, however I prefer using my DP Cleaning Gun, tornado affect cleans it faster and really fluffs up the fibers.
Either way air is the best way to clean the MF pads, not big on using the brush method.

Once done priming my pad using the D300 the pad is completely covered, being the product is sort of a pink color really gives you a good indication that the pad is completely covered.

Is that m105 your using here ?
 
I use this method in cleaning the pad, however I prefer using my DP Cleaning Gun, tornado affect cleans it faster and really fluffs up the fibers.
Either way air is the best way to clean the MF pads, not big on using the brush method.

Once done priming my pad using the D300 the pad is completely covered, being the product is sort of a pink color really gives you a good indication that the pad is completely covered.

Is that m105 your using here ?

Yes, that is 105. I use it pretty much exclusively with the MF pads. 205 I use with my 3401 and a foam pad if needed afterward.

AIO's are always used with my 3401 and foam pad.

Great thread, I hope you don't feel I've hijacked it.
 
Great points made.
I don't over work the m105, I use slow arm speed on my first pass for cutting and slowly increase arm speed and pressure, as the m105 starts to break down, it then finishes down very well, more so when using the DAMP pads.
You can only work m105 for so long, no point in over working it.
I get little dusting when using the m105, worth it being how great the results it gives me.

It's very important to clean the DAMF pads, more so when using it along with the m105.
The D300 is my go to compound to date, very easy to use but when I want more cut I go to my m105.

M105 doesn't break down. It's SMAT.
 
Yes, that is 105. I use it pretty much exclusively with the MF pads. 205 I use with my 3401 and a foam pad if needed afterward.

AIO's are always used with my 3401 and foam pad.

Great thread, I hope you don't feel I've hijacked it.

Not at all , glad you added to the thread. :dblthumb2:
 
I have pretty much completely stopped using M105 and 205. I am pretty much down to 4 products that I use regularly. I start with Ameridepth or FG400 depending on the condition of the paint. If it is pretty bad I go to Amerirocks which cuts really quick and finishes down really nice. I usually finish off with Reflect. I would highly recommend Rocks to anyone who hasn't tried it.
 
I have pretty much completely stopped using M105 and 205. I am pretty much down to 4 products that I use regularly. I start with Ameridepth or FG400 depending on the condition of the paint. If it is pretty bad I go to Amerirocks which cuts really quick and finishes down really nice. I usually finish off with Reflect. I would highly recommend Rocks to anyone who hasn't tried it.


Still trying to get the hang of Amerirocks. How much product do you use and how many passes do you get out of it? Also how slow is your arm movement?
 
It takes awhile to get good with Rocks. I will typically prime the pad like Dave was doing with M105, then after that usually just 3 pea size drops on the outside edge. You really only need to make 2-3 passes with Rocks. That is what makes it so nice, you don't need to make a ton of passes with it.
 
KMG what pads do you typically use with Ameridepth for just polishing with moderate to minor defects? I just got some to try out.
 
Adding a dot or two of UC to the pad when using M105 is a good way to cut down on dusting and extend the polishing time too.

Agreed.

A drop or two of UC or D300 makes M105 a lot less finicky.
 
It takes awhile to get good with Rocks. I will typically prime the pad like Dave was doing with M105, then after that usually just 3 pea size drops on the outside edge. You really only need to make 2-3 passes with Rocks. That is what makes it so nice, you don't need to make a ton of passes with it.


Ok thanks.

Yeah it likes to dry out to a really hard paste the few times that I've used it and it's been a real pain to remove.

But I've seen the results you and Richy get with it so I just need to keep messing with it to get through the learning curve.

I suspect I'm using too little product.
 
Agreed.

A drop or two of UC or D300 makes M105 a lot less finicky.

Hi Guys

I am new to detailing and haven't figured out all the acronyms. What is UC?

This is a great thread. I came here looking to post a question about "how can I get control of the dust when using M105/M101". My technique is just producing a huge amount of dust.

I have picked up a couple pointers:

  • Be sure to start with a primed pad - which I did this weekend
  • less is more (less product and less area per attempt)
  • clean pads often

I do still have a couple questions if I may.

As I said, I am new to detailing. I have only done about 1.5 cars. I am working on my 2011 BMW 135 now.

I am a little confused about the overall process. There are lots of videos of people doing a single section but they don't seem to show the complete process including cleaning pads etc.

So does the process go like this:
  1. prime new / cleaned MF pad w/ 105
  2. do a single section (12"x12") w/ 105
  3. now what?

do I just add 2 more drops of product and do the second section? or do I clean the pad, add 2 more drops of product and do the second section?

So far I have done about three sections before cleaning the pad, then prime again, then add more product and then do another section.

when I did the trunk lid on my BMW there was so much dust. I had broken the trunk into about 5 passes. There was dust everywhere, on the roof, on the back window, on the back bumper, on all down both rear quarter panels.

BTW, I am using a DA polisher. I read one comment about not using a higher speed than 4. I was using about 5.

The centre of the pad usually gets pretty hot. I don't think I am pressing too hard.

thanks for any advice.
Greg
 
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