DFB's Garage

I was eyeing used 6-cylinder Cayman's while waiting for the S650. As good as those final naturally aspirated flat-6 Cayman or Cayman S engines are, I just wasn't sure I would get enough entertainment from one, whereas a V8 does that just idling in the driveway. And I just know I would have been left wanting, because the Porsche I want revs to 9000 rpm. So, either a 911 GT3 Touring for that understated look but still with the killer engine, or a GT4 RS for that spin chilling final 1000 rpm.

The GT3 would be British Racing Green or Irish Green, with either the tan or carmine red interior (so over black on black dungeon interiors).

IRG -





BRG -





The GT4 RS on the other hand, I'd go Guards Red, something like this one.............................

Yeah we're actually brothers from different Mother's without a doubt...perfect spec 911, no doubt about it

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Out of interest, I went to the excellent Porche configurator and discovered they have a new color called Oak Green................................









With gold wheels, CCB's with black calipers, Bordeaux interior. Driveaway price in AUD? Only $579,079.11...................................:eek:





 
Out of interest, I went to the excellent Porche configurator and discovered they have a new color called Oak Green................................









With gold wheels, CCB's with black calipers, Bordeaux interior. Driveaway price in AUD? Only $579,079.11...................................:eek:





That's a STUNNING color

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I watched this review this afternoon, although Harry isn't completely sold on it, I like it, the way the hybrid system spins up the turbo to reduce lag is very clever.

Love Harry's Garage, in my Top 3

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Out of interest, I went to the excellent Porche configurator and discovered they have a new color called Oak Green................................









With gold wheels, CCB's with black calipers, Bordeaux interior. Driveaway price in AUD? Only $579,079.11...................................:eek:





Only $579,079.11. Just couch-cushion change for you. :)
 
More product testing today, mainly to compare and verify.

Test Subject - The Wildtrak

Like last time, I decided to use Koch Chemie Active Foam, again used to clean the wheels and tyres. The ADS Ghost is doing very well on these tyres, they stay cleaner and are easier to clean, the Active Foam was all I needed here. I then used the Active Foam as a pre-wash.

For the contact wash, I decided to use Koch Chemie Nano Magic, mainly to compare with the Ceramic Effect Shampoo CES I used last time.

A few things to note here -

- Nano Magic feels slicker than CES.

- The hydrophobic properties left behind after using CES last time are extremely impressive. Not just the water beading, but how fast it sheds those beads.

- Nano Magic on the other hand has a more pronounced water sheeting effect.

Overall, I think I still prefer CES, mainly because of the scent but also the impressive hydrophobic characteristics.



For the drying aid, I went with Koch Chemie Quick Finish. This product is similar in concept to the Quick & Shine I used last time, but is free from silicone oil, presumably to make it body-shop safe. Comparing the two, Quick & Shine has more lubrication, more gloss and more slickness, which kinda makes sense. Very easy to use, but I prefer the feel and finish of Quick & Shine better.



During the pre-wash phase, I also deep cleaned the rubber window trims to hopefully address a long-term annoyance. These have been discolored for a long time now, taking on a grey to white appearance instead of dark black natural rubber. This is a common Ranger/Everest/BT-50 issue, one that I've tried a few things to improve but with limited success. These can't be disguised with a trim dressing as the white still shows through, and while I have seen where the right polishing compound can strip away the oxidation, the results are short lived. So, I decided to see what a trim dye like Solution Finish would do for them.

Cleaning involved hitting the trims with Nexzett Plastic Deep Cleaner (which is a suitable replacement for the now discontinued Meguiars M39) and a boars hair brush, then a hit with a magic eraser. Prior to application of Solution Finish, I went around with IPA to remove any lingering chemical residue, taped along the painted edge and dropped all of the windows to prevent residue getting on the glass.

From here, I applied the Solution Finish using a folded towel. On a material like this, you tend to apply it thickly with several passes to get a consistent finish. If you do end up getting some on the paint or glass, it easily wipes off with a towel. After letting sit for 10-minutes, you then follow with a separate towel to level any high spots. The TRC Rip-n-Rag were made for jobs like this!



Solution Finish is termed a "semi-permanent" product. From here, you can apply a spray sealant or even a ceramic coating to lock in the finish.

It took a few applications and plenty of product to get them decent, but I'm not totally happy. Having said that, this is the best they have looked in years, it will be interesting to see how long it will last like this. I'm suspecting the only real solution will be to replace with new items and ceramic coat them from brand new. With how quickly these trims and the headlights oxidized, its a shame spending so much money on one of these doesn't buy you quality parts to last beyond 2 - 3 years. But this is Ford we are talking about............

I also finished off a few bottles today, Gyeon Interior Detailer (smells nice, underwhelming to use) and Gyeon Prep (great product). It's always satisfying finishing off a bottle, not sure why though.

 
More product testing today, mainly to compare and verify.

Test Subject - The Wildtrak

Like last time, I decided to use Koch Chemie Active Foam, again used to clean the wheels and tyres. The ADS Ghost is doing very well on these tyres, they stay cleaner and are easier to clean, the Active Foam was all I needed here. I then used the Active Foam as a pre-wash.

For the contact wash, I decided to use Koch Chemie Nano Magic, mainly to compare with the Ceramic Effect Shampoo CES I used last time.

A few things to note here -

- Nano Magic feels slicker than CES.

- The hydrophobic properties left behind after using CES last time are extremely impressive. Not just the water beading, but how fast it sheds those beads.

- Nano Magic on the other hand has a more pronounced water sheeting effect.

Overall, I think I still prefer CES, mainly because of the scent but also the impressive hydrophobic characteristics.



For the drying aid, I went with Koch Chemie Quick Finish. This product is similar in concept to the Quick & Shine I used last time, but is free from silicone oil, presumably to make it body-shop safe. Comparing the two, Quick & Shine has more lubrication, more gloss and more slickness, which kinda makes sense. Very easy to use, but I prefer the feel and finish of Quick & Shine better.



During the pre-wash phase, I also deep cleaned the rubber window trims to hopefully address a long-term annoyance. These have been discolored for a long time now, taking on a grey to white appearance instead of dark black natural rubber. This is a common Ranger/Everest/BT-50 issue, one that I've tried a few things to improve but with limited success. These can't be disguised with a trim dressing as the white still shows through, and while I have seen where the right polishing compound can strip away the oxidation, the results are short lived. So, I decided to see what a trim dye like Solution Finish would do for them.

Cleaning involved hitting the trims with Nexzett Plastic Deep Cleaner (which is a suitable replacement for the now discontinued Meguiars M39) and a boars hair brush, then a hit with a magic eraser. Prior to application of Solution Finish, I went around with IPA to remove any lingering chemical residue, taped along the painted edge and dropped all of the windows to prevent residue getting on the glass.

From here, I applied the Solution Finish using a folded towel. On a material like this, you tend to apply it thickly with several passes to get a consistent finish. If you do end up getting some on the paint or glass, it easily wipes off with a towel. After letting sit for 10-minutes, you then follow with a separate towel to level any high spots. The TRC Rip-n-Rag were made for jobs like this!



Solution Finish is termed a "semi-permanent" product. From here, you can apply a spray sealant or even a ceramic coating to lock in the finish.

It took a few applications and plenty of product to get them decent, but I'm not totally happy. Having said that, this is the best they have looked in years, it will be interesting to see how long it will last like this. I'm suspecting the only real solution will be to replace with new items and ceramic coat them from brand new. With how quickly these trims and the headlights oxidized, its a shame spending so much money on one of these doesn't buy you quality parts to last beyond 2 - 3 years. But this is Ford we are talking about............

I also finished off a few bottles today, Gyeon Interior Detailer (smells nice, underwhelming to use) and Gyeon Prep (great product). It's always satisfying finishing off a bottle, not sure why though.

I used Koch Chemie Pss on the Amarok today will see how long it lasts.
Power Ranger is looking 👌
 
Sorry too hi-jack your thread but I'm surprised the pics worked.
 
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Messing with the MAGNUM today! I love that word! :D

Last week I had this out and noticed the purge bulb was deteriorating and wasn't pumping properly. Once these perforate, you will end up drawing unfiltered air into the system, not good. No problem, I can sort that. Of course, to remove the old bulb, you have to dismantle the whole front of the unit. Then I ruined one of the fuel lines, so I had to replace that as well. :rolleyes:





There are at least three different versions of this primer bulb assembly, the one that came on the machine must have been a very early example as its smaller and doesn't have a supporting spring inside. The replacement wasn't the correct item, but I got it to fit just fine.

I found it easier to remove the airbox and carb from the machine, then fed the hoses through the outlet, connecting everything up, then play the game of holding everything just so to get it all lined up and secured with the T27 screws. I've actually gone and ordered a long reach T27 socket and driver bits for this sort of thing.



Everything back in place, the main cover needs some fettling to hoist it over the two lower anti-vibe pegs before securing with four T27's.





A very quick test run to verify my work, and the MAGNUM is ready for more blow jobbing.
 
Messing with the MAGNUM today! I love that word! :D

Last week I had this out and noticed the purge bulb was deteriorating and wasn't pumping properly. Once these perforate, you will end up drawing unfiltered air into the system, not good. No problem, I can sort that. Of course, to remove the old bulb, you have to dismantle the whole front of the unit. Then I ruined one of the fuel lines, so I had to replace that as well. :rolleyes:





There are at least three different versions of this primer bulb assembly, the one that came on the machine must have been a very early example as its smaller and doesn't have a supporting spring inside. The replacement wasn't the correct item, but I got it to fit just fine.

I found it easier to remove the airbox and carb from the machine, then fed the hoses through the outlet, connecting everything up, then play the game of holding everything just so to get it all lined up and secured with the T27 screws. I've actually gone and ordered a long reach T27 socket and driver bits for this sort of thing.



Everything back in place, the main cover needs some fettling to hoist it over the two lower anti-vibe pegs before securing with four T27's.





A very quick test run to verify my work, and the MAGNUM is ready for more blow jobbing.
I gave my old 2 stroke Ryobi blower vac to my nephew a couple of months ago. His new house has a few trees, so there's plenty of leaves to pick up. It was so old it wasn't even the Ryobi green we all know so well. I hadn't used it since we moved up here, so he had to replace the fuel lines, but the primer bulb was fine.
 
I gave my old 2 stroke Ryobi blower vac to my nephew a couple of months ago. His new house has a few trees, so there's plenty of leaves to pick up. It was so old it wasn't even the Ryobi green we all know so well. I hadn't used it since we moved up here, so he had to replace the fuel lines, but the primer bulb was fine.

I'm guessing it was one of either of these?







The first two used a 31cc half-crank engine, which was also used on their line trimmers. My first trimmer was a Ryobi Weed Wasp, worked it to death. I remember that engine being extremely harsh at full revs. The three-stage choke was a pain in the rear, if you missed it popping off on full choke, it would then flood out.





 
Yeah, it was the third one, still had all the original accessories, even the vac sack. I still remember the start procedure, fuel on, choke on full, two pulls, choke to half and it should start on the next pull, but keep it at full throttle for about a minute, then choke off, and your good to go. But as you say, if you forget that last bit, it floods and stalls.
 
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Because of the dry and windy conditions this summer, it doesn't take long for the cars to be covered in film of dust. Throw a light shower into the mix, which happed to the Ranger while I was cleaning the Mustang last week, well the car was looking filthy.

Today, I decided on an Ethos theme. These products are made by B&B Blending for Ethos, which is under the same umbrella as Adam's. I'm a big fan of Adam's products, they just seem to work with my methods and our climate. No wonder I find Ethos products so agreeable.

After cleaning the wheels and tyres with Brake Buster, I started the Ethos theme by using their Ceramic Shampoo.......................



After the wash, I used Ethos Pro Shine (Finish Shine) for the paint, door jambs and tray. I've said this before, but they need to back off on the colorant as it's a little too rich and has the potential to stain. It's otherwise simple to use and produces some nice gloss and slickness.



For the interior, I went with Ethos Interior Detailer. This product is closer to P&S Swift in that it offers more dressing potential when compared to something like InnerQD or Pilot. I really like the coconut scent too.



From there, I finished off a bottle of Gyeon Q2M Glass, then dressed the tyres with the excellent 3D Ceramic Matte Tire.
 
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