DIY Full Flow brass garden hose shut-off valve

I just went and bought the exact same parts from Home Depot at lunch... $22.00. And looks like a beast. Can't wait to try it. The larger handle on the shut off valve is worth the price alone to me.

I agree that the bottleneck doesn't matter much when hooked up to a pressure washer, but there are times where I don't feel like dragging out the unit, pulling out all the hoses, plugging it in, etc. My garage setup doesn't allow me to put it in a more convenient location, unfortunately. I am considering a wall mount solution and longer pressure hose and reel though.
 
DaytonaJae said:
I agree that the bottleneck doesn't matter much when hooked up to a pressure washer, but there are times where I don't feel like dragging out the unit, pulling out all the hoses, plugging it in, etc. My garage setup doesn't allow me to put it in a more convenient location, unfortunately. I am considering a wall mount solution and longer pressure hose and reel though.
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Exactly the opposite is true. In a pressure washer the water pressure coming out of the line does not matter but flow rate matters as in Gallon's per minute. This Mod makes sense for those that have a pressure washer and makes no sense for guys using a garden hose to wash their cars as the restricted flow increase's the pressure at the nozzle.
 
here is the monster quick connect!



IMG_9893.jpg


IMG_9903.jpg


IMG_9901.jpg
 
The Eley Garden Hose Quick Connect Set cost is $20 but they r the best!
 
Yes but where did you order them from? Can't find it on amazon or anything. Can you give us a link????
 
silverfox said:
The problem is the quick disconnects. They are huge flow killers.
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What is your goal for GPM flow for washing a car? I used 5/8-in hose running with disconnects (1/2-in ID), et and getting plenty of water to run a pressure washer (3 GPM). With a fire hose nozzle, I find it plenty.
 
Just ordered one plus two extra connectors. Sweet!
Their hose reel looks pretty hefty as well. My hose reel, I suspect, has a restrictive 1/4" connector.

As for our goals for GPM, I don't believe we have any, just want to know that it's as unrestrictive as possible. It makes us happy.
 
Wow this is awesome, quick disconnects are hard to find that will last with daily use.
 
Well I'm willing to admit when I'm wrong, and I hope the rest of you are as well lol. I found this awesome reddit post where a guy asked why garden hoses don't burst while the nozzle is shut off. There are some great explanations in here about water pressure, so I'll try to sum up the parts that apply to this thread. I'll try...

So it turns out the pressure is constant. The pressure is provided by the water company at a tower or pressure regulator, or some kind of pump if you have a well. The pressure may vary depending on how far away you are from the source or the elevation of your home compared to the source. You can't increase that pressure with QDs or shut-off valves. For that you need a pressure washer, or if you want to increase the pressure to your entire home you can get special device that attaches where the water comes in from the main.

What we seem to be thinking of as pressure is really velocity. Apparently this is a common misconception. When you add an attachment to force the water out through a smaller opening, you're not increasing pressure, you're increasing velocity.

Line pressure is still important, so you want to avoid decreasing the pressure. Anything that restricts or expands the line, such as restrictive QDs, will affect the pressure.

I could be wrong on this point, but my understanding is that the pressure, as well as the flow measured in GPM, affects the velocity. So having better flow increases the velocity by increasing the volume of the water flowing out, and by maintaining the pressure.
 
DaytonaJae said:
Wow where did you get it? Please let us know!!!
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ferret1980 said:
here is the monster quick connect!



IMG_9893.jpg


IMG_9903.jpg


IMG_9901.jpg
Click to expand...

Btw man, love seeing my valve in the pictures, thank you :D

Also, just noticed how this one has 2 bars in the female piece that lock the male into place. Have you been able to tell how well this design functions compared to the ball-bearings that are typically found in more restrictive models?
 
BlueBeast14GT said:
Well I'm willing to admit when I'm wrong, and I hope the rest of you are as well lol. I found this awesome reddit post where a guy asked why garden hoses don't burst while the nozzle is shut off. There are some great explanations in here about water pressure, so I'll try to sum up the parts that apply to this thread. I'll try...

So it turns out the pressure is constant. The pressure is provided by the water company at a tower or pressure regulator, or some kind of pump if you have a well. The pressure may vary depending on how far away you are from the source or the elevation of your home compared to the source. You can't increase that pressure with QDs or shut-off valves. For that you need a pressure washer, or if you want to increase the pressure to your entire home you can get special device that attaches where the water comes in from the main.

What we seem to be thinking of as pressure is really velocity. Apparently this is a common misconception. When you add an attachment to force the water out through a smaller opening, you're not increasing pressure, you're increasing velocity.

Line pressure is still important, so you want to avoid decreasing the pressure. Anything that restricts or expands the line, such as restrictive QDs, will affect the pressure.

I could be wrong on this point, but my understanding is that the pressure, as well as the flow measured in GPM, affects the velocity. So having better flow increases the velocity by increasing the volume of the water flowing out, and by maintaining the pressure.
Click to expand...

not a bad explanation. fewer restrictions equals more gpm at the tip. this is important if you are using a pressure washer without a tank. if your hose flows at 3 gpm (very unlikely but can happen with long hose lines and lots of restrictions) and your pressure washer pumps 4.5 gpm, your going to hurt the pump.

only way to increase pressure is to introduce work into the system i.e. a pump

as a side i also just did the exact same shut off yesterday. looking into larger diameter qd's. anyone have luck yet aside from the previous mentioned set? haven't had a chance to look into those.
 
Everytime I'm in Harbor Freight and see their QD's, I think they look larger than my gilmours. I may be wrong, and certainly don't have them side by side.
 
cshamilton said:
Everytime I'm in Harbor Freight and see their QD's, I think they look larger than my gilmours. I may be wrong, and certainly don't have them side by side.
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I was in there yesterday and I thought the same thing, so I measured them. They have the same ID. They are thinner, so it gives the illusion that they have a bigger opening.
 
If you are in the quest for theoretical maximum flow/pressure, please evaluate your entire water system. In many homes, outside faucets are fed by 1/2-in supply lines and some can be long runs depending on where water enters the house and the faucet is located. On some houses, one faucet may be on the supply side of the pressure reducing valve.

Water pressure/flow is reduced with every elbow and using hoses that are coiled also reduces pressures/flow as water likes straight lines. Therefore getting a 3/4-in hose sounds good but it may not actually have much impact to the overall pressure/water flow. Even a simple hose reel can induce a little loss.
 
BlueBeast14GT said:
Yup. The inner diameter of the hose is 3/4", so this eliminates the bottleneck created by the smaller valve.
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What's the inner diameter coming through the spigot you hook your hose up to? Did you install one of these in that location too?

Did you see much difference after making this mod?

I like it.
 
If your HP washer is spitting and sputtering at times that's your first clue it's starving for water. I've actually found that eliminating any constrictions including valves and QDs works best in terms of a perfect max flow to the HP washer. Is it convenient? Depends on your routine. For me I just screw one end of hose on house bib and the other end on the Hp washer. I turn on the water valve at the house and leave it on until I'm done with the HP washer. There is no need to be turning the water on and off and doing multiple disconnects until I'm done.
 
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