Foothills of Cackalacka reporting in

cityjack

New member
Joined
Aug 17, 2020
Messages
25
Reaction score
0
Good morning all,

First time here obviously. I'd love to tell you all some extravagant story on how I am detailing some expensive vette and I need to know all the tricks. Maybe someday, but today, I am in search of a good wax, paste or liquid, that will save my clear coat and protect my black paint of my Mazda 3. Every side except for the hood and roof look really good. Its a 2011.

I have a old gold can of liquid glass. Probably some paste of some sort laying around, and just recently picked up some Griots spray that a friend recommended.

I need some direction please. Most interested in protection from the North Carolina sun.

Thank you all for your help.

Sid
 
Welcome to AutogeekOnline! :welcome:


Just to note - the best way to get actual help is to start a "Dedicated Thread" with a TITLE that tells people what you need help with.

Right now the title of this thread says,

Foothills of Cackalacka reporting in


Nice forum members that readily "welcome" new members that make "introduction" threads like you will >click< on this thread and welcome you. Some might even share detailing information. But to get people that like to >click< on threads and help others to detail cars will look for threads with titles like this,

Need help saving and protecting paint on 11 year old car?


See the differences in mentality? Just suggestions for you, for any forum you ever join and for anyone that ever reads this into the future.


:cheers:



Good morning all,

First time here obviously. I'd love to tell you all some extravagant story on how I am detailing some expensive vette and I need to know all the tricks. Maybe someday, but today, I am in search of a good wax, paste or liquid, that will save my clear coat and protect my black paint of my Mazda 3. Every side except for the hood and roof look really good. Its a 2011.

I have a old gold can of liquid glass. Probably some paste of some sort laying around, and just recently picked up some Griots spray that a friend recommended.

I need some direction please. Most interested in protection from the North Carolina sun.

Thank you all for your help.

Sid


Being that the car is 9+ years old, and sounds like the horizontal surfaces need help. It's these surfaces that the SUN beats down on and also the rain that suffer CLEARCOAT FAILURE first. IF that is the case, then there's nothing you can do to undo the damage. You can try washing, claying and then using a cleaner/wax of some sort to remove any surface oxidation and restore a SMOOTH CLEAN surface. A smooth clean surface will last longer than a dirty, oxidized tectured surface.

The Gold Class won't help and neither will the Griot's spray product.

I'm guessing you're working by hand? If so - get either a bottle of 3D Speed or BLACKFIRE One Step and a microfiber applicator and then using ELBOW GREASE - get after it.



Hope that helps...


:)
 
Gotcha Mike, and thank you.
You mention cleaning the surface the best I can. Yes I'm working by hand. Will this 3D speed product be the cleaner/wax you speak of? Will there be an additional step of adding more wax afterwards?

I'm going to try to get a hold of these guys when they open for more info.

Thanks again for your help.

Sid
 
Gotcha Mike, and thank you.

No problemo - my intentions are good, they are just meant to help..



You mention cleaning the surface the best I can. Yes I'm working by hand. Will this 3D speed product be the cleaner/wax you speak of?


Yes. I believe it uses a synthetic protection ingredient but I would have to look at a bottle. You can find the info on the AG store.

Point being is it cleans, polishes and protects in one step.

The microfiber applicator will give the product a little more bite to help you "clean" or abrade the surface, which is what you want to do.


Will there be an additional step of adding more wax afterwards?

The Speed and BF One Step are both AIOs - this means All-in-One so "yes" after application the surface is protected.

You could apply a non-cleaning product afterwards for more protections.


:)
 
Good morning all,

First time here obviously. I'd love to tell you all some extravagant story on how I am detailing some expensive vette and I need to know all the tricks. Maybe someday, but today, I am in search of a good wax, paste or liquid, that will save my clear coat and protect my black paint of my Mazda 3. Every side except for the hood and roof look really good. Its a 2011.

I have a old gold can of liquid glass. Probably some paste of some sort laying around, and just recently picked up some Griots spray that a friend recommended.

I need some direction please. Most interested in protection from the North Carolina sun.

Thank you all for your help.

Sid
Welcome to the forum! I'm located in Raleigh, where are you located?

I typically use FK1000P or Collinite 845 to wax my cars and they work very well. I even used them when I lived in Miami and they both held up.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Autogeekonline mobile app
 
I typically use FK1000P or Collinite 845 to wax my cars and they work very well. I even used them when I lived in Miami and they both held up.


Both products have stellar reputations.


And to put things in context,

cityjack said:
Will there be an additional step of adding more wax afterwards?

After first somehow cleaning the paint via a compound, polish or a cleaner/wax, (cleaner/wax is an AIO), you could then TOP the results of any of these products with one of the waxes DETAIROOKIE listed. Both of them are NON-CLEANING waxes and this means they should only be used on paint that is either in new or excellent condition or is PRE-CLEANED via one of the products mentioned in the first sentence of this paragraph.

A non-cleaning wax will not remove the oxidation and/or any other defects or impurities like road film on all the paint and specifically the hood, trunk lid and roof.


See my article here,

Road Film - If you drive your car in the rain your car has road film



Road Film

Road film is the oily film splattered all over your car when you drive in the rain.

Road_Traffic_Film_02.JPG




And here,

Topping - Definition - How to Top also called Topping


:)
 
Welcome to the forum! I'm located in Raleigh, where are you located?

I typically use FK1000P or Collinite 845 to wax my cars and they work very well. I even used them when I lived in Miami and they both held up.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Autogeekonline mobile app

Hey Detail, I'm over in Hickory but my son lives just a bit from you over in Saxapahaw .

I'm afraid that I have a bit much for a "All in One" solution. Don't know. Unfortunately, with Google and all, I think I've "gone down the rabbit hole". I definitely believe I need a cleaner first. At what point do I say a AIO will nut cut it and I need to claybar?

Mike, I'm headed to read your article now.

Thank you.
 
Welcome to AGO!

The 3D Speed/Collinite 845 combo is a proven winner.
 
This all very confusing. Do I use cleaning lotion first, then clay, or vice versa? It says the Pinnacle lotion is for newer paint, mine is certainly not newer. Can I clay first THEN go to the 3D speed? What lubricant for the clay?

I'm going to go read more thanks and I apologize for all the questions.
 
Maybe some pics will help you all help me.

I'll be back.
 
This all very confusing. Do I use cleaning lotion first, then clay, or vice versa? It says the Pinnacle lotion is for newer paint, mine is certainly not newer. Can I clay first THEN go to the 3D speed? What lubricant for the clay?

I'm going to go read more thanks and I apologize for all the questions.

Never be sorry to ask a question on this forum. We all started from square one. Just like you are doing.

Wash your car.

Clay the paint. There are many quality products you can use as a clay lube. (My favorite is Griot's Speed Shine.)
Use plenty of lube, and fold/knead the clay often to always work with a clean surface.

Polish the paint with Speed.

Add a quality LSP. (Last Step Product) Speed is a great product that leaves some protection, but the protection is short-lived.
 
Ahhhh, there it is. Thank you Paul.

I just real quick went outside and washed just the roof and hood with Meguiars Gold class wash and then wiped dry. If you zoom in, you can see the fadedness I was talking about. The paint is decent and doesn't feel all that rough, just slightly faded in several spots. Same with the hood, sprinkle in a couple small chips as well from rock strikes.

Thanks again guys.

Stay healthy

View attachment 70652

View attachment 70653

View attachment 70654
 
Hey cityjack, welcome to AGO!

You’ve come to the right place for all your detailing needs with an active group of members and tons of knowledge!

PaulMys has summed it up well, wash, clay, polish, wax.

You’ve been recommended two amazingly easy to use and effective All-in-one polishes, Blackfire One Step and HD Speed. These leave a sealant behind to protect your paint and after every car wash you can apply a spray wax(your Griots product should work) as you dry the car. This will prolong the protection and shine to your Mazda 3.

It’s all overwhelming at first and we are an extremely passionate group so we will throw tons of information at you which may or may not help at first. Keep asking questions, keep learning, but also know the learning is in the doing!

You got this!

edit: just saw your post with pictures added and didn’t want to double post.

Based on the pics, the paint on your roof and hood don’t look too far gone! Should clean up nicely and get it’s shine back!
 
That doesn't look too bad from what I see in the pics.

I would strongly suggest you look into an entry-level polisher such as the Porter Cable 7424XP, or the Griot's G9.

Unless you are a pro bodybuilder, working by hand is going to knock the hell out of you.
 
Thanks guys. Your words make me feel better.

Now to purchase a DA and materials. I'll let you all know how it goes.

Have a good rest of the week.

Sid
 
Back
Top