The response from my tuner, don't understand this and I feel lost here, atleast the car doesn't have a drive ability issue
Late to the party, but to throw my couple pennies into the ring
First off, sorry to hear the day didn't go your way. Always a bummer to have a build up and then run into an issue.
Regarding your tuner's response, the technician in me sees it not as dismissive or dodgy or anything; I see it from their end where I'm sure they've done extensive testing in house with known-quantity cars and (as they mentioned) the stage 1 tune is meant to be conservative and not light the stock hardware on fire. Even with your extra little mods, I'm sure they improvements are out of range for the car/software's ability to learn and adapt - if it wasn't, I'd think your tuner would have expressed concern over the additional mods.
I also see the comment of "should not be giving you any cuts that sounds mechanical" not as a statement that you must have a mechanical issue like engine hard parts, merely a catch all statement for there must be something on your car causing it to cut.
Again, as a tech, having been to plenty of rodeos where a DIY'r has been putting parts in, I can assure you that a lot of aftermarket stuff is not good. While at the shop we do use non-genuine parts, we've developed a knowledge base of what brands to stay away from whole cloth, and even certain brands where you can use some parts but not others. Those MSD coils fall in the suspect category for me, especially if Coating's has seen them poo-poo'd on a separate forum. We've seen plenty of formerly reputable brands suffering from sending their manufacturing off to cheaper production locales.
Regarding what's going on with your car, I'm also in the camp of being sure to get your oil temp up before hooning. For my own car, I've made a habit of not just avoiding WOT when the oil is cold, I'll actually monitor boost and try to keep it below the halfway mark until I've got some oil temp to work with.
But, as far as low oil temp causing a cut-out situation, that should be easy to duplicate - a dyno shouldn't be any different than loading the car up on the road. Ignition misfires are most common under high cylinder pressure (lower/mid RPM, high load, high boost) as it is now harder for the coil/plug to produce a fire in the cylinder. Were you hearing audible misfiring where the car sounded like it was no longer firing all 4 cylinders? A lot of times when I'm chasing an ignition issue, I'll get the engine nice and hot (just from time driving, not specifically rodding on it), then click it in 4th and do a "pull" from about 3K to 5k. You're looking to go max torque, not use the horsepower to rev the thing to redline.
I would try to replicate the conditions you had at the dyno with the MSD's in and see if you can experience the cut again. Then swap in your stock coils and repeat.
Hopefully this is all coherent, typing as fast as I can on my lunch break. This whole mechanic-ing thing is something I can just do but struggle to explain sometimes. :laughing:
The last time we did this I didn't notice anything breaking up or missing but when we do this, I'll be sure to be in manual mode like he was as I wasn't and he was and he stayed a car infront of me and we went well into 4th gear, same as the dyno replicated
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