From "stay tuned" to T U N E D !!

[Klasse Act]

Agree. I can see this coming from here. They probably got the old ECU back and have figured things out and will likely take that as a way of not having to pay or document the issue that may or may not be the underlying cause. The Moss act is a little grey when fighting it. My wife is a lawyer and worked with a firm that took consumer law cases like this. In the end, manufacturers do a LOT Of testing and documentation, and in the end all they will really have to prove is that their factory/stock stuff works, and if a different tune was applied, then their factory warranty will no longer apply as it's no longer their full design that they back up. It's not even so much about proving the tune caused it, they have hundreds of thousands of cases that can prove these things don't happen to stock vehicles, and that so long as the design stays within their parameters and the consumer side will have to back up their argument to the opposite effect. Tunes are not like using different motor mount or hard-part. Software is much different. There's a reason why the phrase is "pay to play"

I've tuned or modified nearly every car I've owned and gotten lucky to have either avoided issues or at least the BIG ones. I'm leaving my Accord stock for a number of reasons, but this is one of them. These newer 4cyl. turbo cars in this generation of engineering are really already pushing limits and so tightly tuned that nearly everything/anything tosses a code somewhere. Not knocking the Koreans as the new products are pretty nice, but it's still my opinion they aren't long-term reliable or as well designed as others in the business.

I've not kept up with this entire thread but my assumption is after his tune there were some odd issues and now the dealer and manufacturer are looking into them. I personally would suspect it's time to trade that sucker in a cut-bait.

Thank you

I'm not going to ask for you to read through but I'll give a "cliff note" version later but let's just say the issues didn't happen right away and a carwash is what has triggered the code here.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

 

[Desertnate]

Agree. I can see this coming from here. They probably got the old ECU back and have figured things out and will likely take that as a way of not having to pay or document the issue that may or may not be the underlying cause. The Moss act is a little grey when fighting it. My wife is a lawyer and worked with a firm that took consumer law cases like this. In the end, manufacturers do a LOT Of testing and documentation, and in the end all they will really have to prove is that their factory/stock stuff works, and if a different tune was applied, then their factory warranty will no longer apply as it's no longer their full design that they back up. It's not even so much about proving the tune caused it, they have hundreds of thousands of cases that can prove these things don't happen to stock vehicles, and that so long as the design stays within their parameters and the consumer side will have to back up their argument to the opposite effect. Tunes are not like using different motor mount or hard-part. Software is much different. There's a reason why the phrase is "pay to play"

They do seem to be using the mods to divert blame from a mechanical flaw on their point despite the fact intake pipes and tranny mounts have nothing to do with engine knock. Even if someone tries to use the Magnuson-Moss Act and proves unrelated mods aren't the source of the problem and the warranty is still in effect, it's an uphill battle vs a bone-stock car.

I've tuned or modified nearly every car I've owned and gotten lucky to have either avoided issues or at least the BIG ones. I'm leaving my Accord stock for a number of reasons, but this is one of them. These newer 4cyl. turbo cars in this generation of engineering are really already pushing limits and so tightly tuned that nearly everything/anything tosses a code somewhere. Not knocking the Koreans as the new products are pretty nice, but it's still my opinion they aren't long-term reliable or as well designed as others in the business. [/quote]

I've been pretty fortunate with my minor mods too. I also won't really do anything to the car until it's out of warranty. That gives me time to give the car a good "shake down" and once the warranty is up, I understand I'm fully responsible for anything that might go sideway and there won't be any warranty fights. Of course this is a lot harder with a Hyundai and their incredibly long warranties.

I personally would suspect it's time to trade that sucker in a cut-bait.

I'm starting to think the same thing as painful as it might be. You might end up with negative equity, but trading it in or selling it off to Carmax may be a better option than a voluntary repo. If you kept any of the stock parts I'd swap back the more visible ones to help get a better trade-in/sale.

 

[Klasse Act]

I might have some news by the time I get off of work....

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

 

[Klasse Act]

...a bad ground wire to the ECU

SA called me right after I headed out on my route and told me this. A couple hrs later it was taken on a test drive and they said no codes came back this time

He also said once the ground wire/bolt was cleaned and reconnected all the crazy things went away, like 395 F ambient temp

We'll driving it out to Wahlburgers tomorrow (belated Valentines Day out) and while heading there I'm going to octane learn it and try and feel some performance since they "thought" it was the ECU and took mine out and replaced it with a stock brain....Zzzzzzz️

I asked about the carwash and he said to go for it, I'll wait till next weekend for that...stay "tuned"

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

 

[DFB]

...a bad ground wire to the ECU

SA called me right after I headed out on my route and told me this. A couple hrs later it was taken on a test drive and they said no codes came back this time

He also said once the ground wire/bolt was cleaned and reconnected all the crazy things went away, like 395 F ambient temp

We'll driving it out to Wahlburgers tomorrow (belated Valentines Day out) and while heading there I'm going to octane learn it and try and feel some performance since they "thought" it was the ECU and took mine out and replaced it with a stock brain....Zzzzzzz️

I asked about the carwash and he said to go for it, I'll wait till next weekend for that...stay "tuned"

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

I hope this is the end to the saga and gets you back to enjoying the car again. :hotrod2:

It has been sad to read the troubles you've been having, nothing worse for a car guy than your pride and joy being a drain on your brain.

 

[Desertnate]

That’s fantastic news! That has be be a huge relief.

 

[Klasse Act]

That’s fantastic news! That has be be a huge relief.

It is but...how about the carwash? I assume using the car wash on a regular basis since July 2022 caused the corrosion on the ground? It's been removed, cleaned and re-installed, can I resume the car wash, maybe a little less

The SA said to go for it, thankfully its too cold today but I'll be driving out to Wahlburger today, longish drive, so a good test

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

 

[Klasse Act]

So I had the chance to OCTANE LEARN the EN this afternoon on our way to Wahlburger this afternoon, showed 17 psi on the gauge, more on that later

The first 2 graphs are from when I was challenged by an Infiniti G37x coupe. I didn't have time to set up launch control so I basically went from just taking my foot from the brake to the go pedal, put about 1.5 cars on him

I then pulled onto a deserted industrial sub to try out launch control. Since I'm running winter tires and it's slightly above freezing I didn't set it too high, 2600 rpm. The 0-60 was 5.7 seconds, certainly could've went higher because it basically gripped and went (thank you Powerflex trio)

I then checked out psi and power, it read 18 psi and the first 2 graphs were from the "door tag" with the G37x, the 2nd was the 0-60 pull. Now earlier the boost read 17 psi and dropped down to 16-15 but after these pulls it showed 18 psi but I'm sure it didn't hold that across the board, atleast I don't think so

The car is "rated" at 276 hp stock and I didn't even use NGS in either of these pulls either. As you can see it converts to 295 hp, not sure if the on-board dyno is reading wheel or crank but either way between the octane learning, intake/TIP & mid-pipe it makes more power over stock, so far so good but there isn't that "invisible hand" pushing you further into the seat w/o the Stage 1 tune, oh well....for now

The old Stage 1 tune showed 322 PS which translates to almost 318 hp, so it made another 22 PS with the Stage 1

A trip to the dyno is coming next month if I had to guess...stay "tuned" and btw knowledge on these numbers, either way, would be appreciated

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

 

[oneheadlite]

Klasse - glad they were able to find a measurable problem (.5v voltage drop) that had a tangible change when fixed (immediate change in ambient temp reading) vs another round of throwing parts that are hard to test. A bad ground is absolutely the kind of things that can cause gremlins (that can also vary as environmental conditions change).

Hopefully when they cleaned that ground they put some of that fancy dielectric grease on that they ordered to promote that point not corroding again.

When I’m at work tomorrow I’ll see if I can find out where that ground location is. I would say you shouldn’t have to scale your car wash habits based on this finding. It’s more likely an Every-Elantra-will-have-this issue, not a because-you-washed-it-so-much issue.

 

[Klasse Act]

Klasse - glad they were able to find a measurable problem (.5v voltage drop) that had a tangible change when fixed (immediate change in ambient temp reading) vs another round of throwing parts that are hard to test. A bad ground is absolutely the kind of things that can cause gremlins (that can also vary as environmental conditions change).

Hopefully when they cleaned that ground they put some of that fancy dielectric grease on that they ordered to promote that point not corroding again.

When I’m at work tomorrow I’ll see if I can find out where that ground location is. I would say you shouldn’t have to scale your car wash habits based on this finding. It’s more likely an Every-Elantra-will-have-this issue, not a because-you-washed-it-so-much issue.

Thanks one, that location would be GREAT because who knows if they added the grease but I can ask tomorrow as I've got some "thanks" for the SA & mechanic who worked on my EN.

That said, I'm scared to wash it because, well, I don't get the 1326 code for the knock sensor with this ground issue. When this happened last year they replaced the knock sensor, this time it threw the same code and we went from new ECU to the ground issue...so how do I know the knock sensor is ok enough for the carwash

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

 

[Big DaveBig Dave is verified member.]

Ah the magical mystery of Auto electrics, bad earth's and bad connections can definitely cause unusual things to happen. My Commodore's hi-beam coming on without being switched on for example. One of my uncles had an old Bitsashiti that the wipers turned on by themselves and one indicator started flashing randomly, diagnosed as a bad fusible link, one connector had been plugged in for fifteen years and never been unplugged, so built up resistance and made weird stuff happen. He didn't believe it, but the sparky told him to unplug and plug back in every connection he could find, and didn't charge him for the advice, but it did fix the problem. His fingers were killing him by the time he was done.

Sent from my motorola edge 20 fusion using Tapatalk

 

[Klasse Act]

My daughter and I took a couple gift cards for Starbucks and Jimmy John's to my SA and mechanic who fixed my car last week. I believe in taking care of those who take care of you, even if it's their job

My SA said I shouldn't be afraid to wash my car, well...stay "tuned"

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

 

[Desertnate]

Yeah, I've heard of strange things happening with grounding on more than just cars. It gets even more bizarre when the ground gets energized on sensitive sensor equipment - have a long story about that scenario.

I think if you can determine not only the location of the grounding bolt and the knock sensor, it would be pretty helpful in determining the risk of running it through a touchless wash. If the bolt can be reached, it might be worth doing your own occasional PMI to make sure it isn't corroding and slather on a little dialectic grease.

As for the performance, I'm not sure how much faith I would put in the on-board sensors. Like the G-meter in my car, I find them to be entertaining but not a true measure like you'd get from a proper measuring suite (i.e. VBOX) like some of the testing outlets use. A proper dyno run will probably get you a much closer estimate of what the car is actually doing. Many manufactures these days under-estimate output to avoid the issues Ford ran into a few years ago with the Mustang and or home-country testing policy like the Germans go through.

 

[oneheadlite]

Unfortunately I can’t be much more help than this. Hyundai doesn’t share much for ground location information.

Looks like your knock sensor is underneath your intake manifold between the center ports.

 

[Klasse Act]

You guys have been very helpful and I'll be looking into having this inspected at oil change time for sure

The tech who worked on my car is on vacation but I'm going to find out next week if he did infact apply the dialetric grease on the ground

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

 

[Coatingsarecrack]

Glad it seems to be fix… glad it was as simple as a ground.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Klasse Act]

So I waited well over a week, for whatever reason, to take the EN through the touch-free wash...and it happened again, 1326 code. It's been 1326 all along too, the ECU replacement showed 1326, the corroded ECU ground showed 1326 code and I thought that solved it because it didn't come back right away after that. My SA even asked me I washed it yet and I said no, I'm scared to and he said "Hey man, you gotta"...well now they GOTTA replace the knock sensor, what else can it be at this point

This sucks on many levels, tired of being kicked in the gut over this

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

 

[TTQ B4U]

So I waited well over a week, for whatever reason, to take the EN through the touch-free wash...and it happened again, 1326 code. It's been 1326 all along too, the ECU replacement showed 1326, the corroded ECU ground showed 1326 code and I thought that solved it because it didn't come back right away after that. My SA even asked me I washed it yet and I said no, I'm scared to and he said "Hey man, you gotta"...well now they GOTTA replace the knock sensor, what else can it be at this point

How long after you enter the wash does it toss a code? Video of it? Just curious.

 

[Coatingsarecrack]

From "stay tuned" to T U N E D !!



Well hopefully replaced and then good? My understanding is is they replaced it once?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Big DaveBig Dave is verified member.]

I found this video on YT, from six months ago. I'm not trying to single out your choice of car, or upset you, but the knock sensor makes number 1 on the list. It seems like Hyundai are fully aware of this issue. They really have to come up with a fix for this. If they have bought back vehicles that have the front parking sensor issue, then they need to do the same for this.

10 Most Common Problems with the Hyundai Elantra N - YouTube

Sent from my motorola edge 20 fusion using Tapatalk